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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/17/25 in all areas
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16 points
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Some of my favorite Union Special shirts: Got the first two (Neal Cassidy plus Foreman) from Seiichiro around 2020. Both have aged really well; I love the puckering on the Foreman, although the color on that one’s faded a little fast for my liking. Both are 50/50ish cotton/linen blends. The Neal is a little small on me now, but the Foreman still fits perfect. The contrast & colors are truest on the collar shots. Got this salt & peppery chambray Hammersmith off Yahoo in 2019 or 2020 I think. It’s probably my most-worn cotton chambray shirt from Freewheelers, although I did just pick up a lighter S&P Neal shirt (prob. the exact same one our own Neal’s got on, above) from Yahoo a few weeks ago that I’m looking forward to. Very comfortable fabric. My very favorite shirt—maybe ever—is this Rivet Gunner (the red one) that I picked up in 2022 or so. No photos that I’ve taken manage to do the fabric justice. I was ecstatic to find a second one recently (the green), not too heavily used. It just arrived in the same shipment as the S&P Neal; I still haven’t even worn it out. Bonus shot of all of the above crumpled on the table, for color reference:13 points
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Reviving this thread, I stumbled into the Big John store in Tokyo after having seen some of their new jeans that were made of Suvin Gold cotton (and also on the very old Ishikawadai loom) when looking up SDA's suvin gold items. I went to the store thinking nothing would fit me, as I have abnormally large thighs (most relaxed fits are still tight on me), but surprisingly these S1956WS fit me (I'm kind of curious who their target customer is for this because anything that fits me well is a strange fit for normal people). I also like the zip fly, so finding something that fits me and has a zip fly is incredibly rare. I think there is also a non-Suvin Gold version of these jeans too. They run 30.8k yen, or 28k without tax, which at the exchange rate at the time of ~152, was a steal at USD185. I got them tapered, started wearing them at the beginning of this year, and just resoaked them, they seem like fast faders. The denim is rougher than I would have expected for Suvin Gold, but by no means rough compared to some of the super slubby stuff that's come out in recent years, and it has softened up quickly. I've been really enjoying them so far, I think they're a great medium ground between super vintage brands that like Warehouse and the IMO overdone extra-slubby stuff that's out there, interesting but not crazy denim and a lot of good details (plus a fit that works for me and the zipper). https://bigjohn-jeans.com/products/s1956ws-001?srsltid=AfmBOoofIgttxRVS-_9qw8eqzH2su-AZ90R9x3q6VC3qlSbgI10tF95r https://blog.denimio.com/ishikawadai-denim-series-big-john-and-more-famous-japanese-brands/?lang=us Below is the detail from the site: Introducing the new premium denim from "ISHIKAWADAI," crafted with 100% of the finest Indian cotton "SUVIN GOLD." Enjoy the exquisite fusion of tradition and modernity achieved through a vintage Ishikawadai spinning machine from 1953 and the raw finish of 14oz selvedge denim. Features ■ Material Made with 100% SUVIN GOLD cotton, one of the world’s rarest cottons from India. By blending first-pick and second-pick raw fibers with fallen cotton from SUVIN GOLD, we’ve achieved a rich, hairy texture and a rugged look. Known for its silky touch and deep luster, this denim stands out in quality. ・Tapered straight fit (roomy around the thighs and tapered toward the hem) ・Zipper fly (front zipper) ・One-wash finish ■ Manufacturing Process Spinning: Using a 1953 Ishikawadai ring spinning machine to create natural unevenness. This low-speed process reduces stress on the yarn, resulting in robust denim threads. Dyeing: Pure indigo rope dyeing Weaving: Crafted on vintage shuttle looms into selvedge denim, the fabric incorporates natural cotton-colored weft threads, producing a slightly brownish unique texture. Raw Finish: No sanforization (shrinkage prevention) or skewing (twist prevention) is applied, offering distinctive fuzz and twisting effects that develop beautifully over time with wear and washes. Details ■ Original BIG JOHN Specifications 10oz ultra-thick oxford pocket linings (in olive, inspired by the Ishikawadai spinning machine) Original zipper fly and copper rivets Custom black rayon tags and orange SUVIN GOLD labels for accents ■ NEW Vegetable-Tanned Leather Patch A durable cowhide leather patch with the "Four Crown" emblem. Featuring a world map and cotton motifs, it represents BIG JOHN’s global vision and the origins of denim. The bottom of the label is embossed with "SUVIN COTTON 100%" as a mark of its rarity. ■ Flasher Design The flasher features a special design inspired by the cotton-picking scenes in India, capturing the story behind SUVIN COTTON.12 points
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Been wearing these Russell Zephyrs lots for maybe 4 months now; the lightweight nubuck / faux chamois leather picks up grease and indigo like crazy so they look a lot older (to me at least) Never thought I’d find slip-on boots to be this comfortable / useful. When I picked them up I really just wanted something fast to put on and off that had high enough shafts to be good for gardening / cold-weather car washing / whatever chores, but they stay put well enough when walking that I’ve probably ended up wearing them as my main shoes more than half the days that I’ve had them. A++ would strongly recommend9 points
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Here's one for the collectors.. ..bonus Lenny photo ..it's a 35yr old deadstock Silverstone 506xx repro from 1990 ..according to 'denim legend'.. Silverstone (and subsequently Ground-Alls) went out of business because of the exacting standards of the perfectionist owners.. i don't know if this is true or denim-lore but they did go bankrupt producing an incredible repro during the golden age / largest denim-boom on the planet ..the very first cowhorn patch which has been oiled annually so it doesn't crack shirt weight denim as we would expect ..you'll not see another one of these this week, month, year.. probably ever6 points
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Someone around the forum asked if i'd do a little fit guide for the old SC47s I've had.. and still have numerous pairs of these but they've all been raw.. this was the first o/w pair i've owned, i wouldn't have chosen to buy o/w but they came to me as a part exchange for other denim goodies more than a decade ago and i've only just got around to wearing them. They're tagged 32" ..A lot of SCs have a notoriously nipped waist but if you can get the waist fastened comfortably (post stretch) .. they tend to drape through the legs, if you measure around my waist where my jeans sit, it measures 34" This is after a few weeks of wear / stretch Worn with vintage 1984-87 Nike blue label, Cascade Run Off Tee.. Wonder how long till Freewheelers 'bootleg' this one And a pair of Nike Elite Vntg repros Measurements as follows... The waist has stretched back to raw (or even a few MMs beyond) measurements5 points
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Sculptor David Smith in his studio in 1951 in a Type I. I dig the cap and workshirt too https://www.moma.org/calendar/exhibitions/3346?4 points
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Some pics of my Neat Style Kiwami WWII jeans and Neat Style x Denim Bridge. Jeans are the 'irregular' model with destroyed patch, wonky red tab and rusted top button which are supposed to be like B-stock sitting in a warehouse for 80 years lol. I got them as they were a pair in stock and the regular Kiwami WWII has long lead time. I kinda thought I'd hate the destroyed patch but it doesn't bother me in the end. Denim is quite streaky but less hairy and stubby than say, Sugar Cane S1943. Denim used for Kiwami WWII and the Denim Bridge models very similar but maybe different colour (notwithstanding wear washing making colour difference). Stitching character is quite different with the Denim Bridge models however (thicker more yellow thread, different quirks). Next to Sugar Cane S1943 and 1946. Neat Style back pockets a touch smaller which I don't like. Neat Style sizing is small so this is tag size 34 vs Sugar Cane size 32.4 points
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Feel daft putting this in the Nice things thread, but l've had it hanging around in the loft for donkeys years and it's just found a new owner so. It complies to something nice that l love within my home but also it was my home on and off for a couple of years away back in my yoof. Macpac super lightweight backpacking tent, which l bought in June 1996, packed away in 1999 and hardly used since. Certainly not used in the last 20 years. Selling point for me that it was the lightest tent on the market at the time and is quick and easy to use. I hiked it around Indonesia, Australia and New Zealand for nearly 2 years and at one point it was pitched in one place for two months! It really was compact living. And in situ in the garden with his mate's tents.. Hopefully my son will get into using it more often.4 points
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@UkeNo Thanks! Yeah, it was a long time coming. Been thinning up top more & more for the last couple years, and at a certain point the pony tail just starts to feel forced. That said, I love it so far; everything’s so much easier3 points
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Sorry for the dusty mirror, I'm lazy. 1001xx in banner denim, size 31. Happy with the fit. Been realizing that I comfortably sit between a few sizes for 501 type cuts, so I've enjoyed picking up different pairs to play with that, i.e. sizing up on 66-type cuts, sizing down on 47-55 type cuts etc.3 points
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A new Phlegm piece went up a couple of days ago.. i though i'd leave it till Sunday before riding down there.. less chance of any cars obstructing my photos.. sadly, there was still a stupid metal thing parked in the way! Post industrial, city living.. the clothing / trainers are not drying on washing lines, they're purely decorative .. rode past this'un on my way home3 points
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Hi all, For those that don't know me, I spent the last 3.5 years or so working at Son of a Stag/Soldier blue in London, UK. If any of you had any repairs done by them during that period, it's very likely to have done by me. I've now left SoaS and have moved down to the Kent coast where I'm going to spend more time making bags and leather accessories (wallets, keyrings & the like) I'm also set up to take on jeans repairs. So, if any of you want anything done, please do get In touch. Will be very happy to give you a price. Below are a couple of before and afters I did. Sadly l can't justify the cost of a chain stitcher so I unable to offer shortening. Apologies for the blatant promotional post 🙂 Martin3 points
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SInce there are plenty of models available (or were at one point) and we already have some discussions in various threads, I thought, it would be fun to have a dedicated thread to the 30s cinch back models to share fit pics, fades and the different models of the various makers. According to TCB it is differentiated roughly between the early, mid and late 1937 models. These are the main difference of the models as our resident scholar on this matter Dr Heech had written before here: "Lvc 1937 at the bottom, Csf 1941 in the middle and FW42's at the top. Both the repro 37 and 42 models have the standard yoke set up, whereas the pair in the middle do not. The standard yoke set up is what we are used to seeing on 501's made from August 1942 up until the present day which sees the bottom panels overlap the top ones, like on the lvc 37's and FW42's shown." So the yoke: 1937- right over left 1941- top over bottom 1942- back to standard from then on bottom over top and left over right. Some issues of the last years: TCB 30s Jeans C Vintage pair of Mr Koizumi from TCB site: Freewheelers Lot.601 XXC 1937 WAREHOUSE - HINOYA EXCLUSIVE - HINOYA 75th Anniversary Model - 1003HXX-DSB Freewheelers Lot 601 XX 1942 SUGAR CANE Super “Denim” Collectibles Lot No. SC49005 BLUE DENIM WAIST OVERALLS “1942” Cushman 22192 1937 MODEL2 points
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It would be good to have an idea ahead of time as to the level of formality with the dress code. If no one else is wearing a tie, no reason why you should. So check on that if you can. My gut instinct, says proper trousers, polished shoes, pressed shirt, sportscoat/suit jacket.2 points
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After 3 months of searching high and low for my next jacket, I finally settled on the Freewheelers 506XX 46-47. I had no qualms about sizing, thanks to the wealth of information available in the FW thread, and went with a 42. Upon arrival, I was dismayed at the fit. It felt huge ( no pre-wash fit pics, apologies😅) so I immediately threw it in the machine for a hot wash (heavy agitation) and dry, and it came out just about perfect in my opinion. According to my measurements there wasn't drastic shrinkage anywhere, but the fit feels like night and day, it's perfect now; I think I just have denim dysmorphia or something. This is without a doubt the nicest denim I own, it really puts my jeans to shame. It's so textured and lively, whereas the 3sixteen denim just looks flat and lifeless in comparison, I'm not sure if I'll be able to wear them together. I guess I may be in the market for a new pair of jeans soon.... Measurements taken with a sewing tape, garment laying flat, all pleats folded, not stretched. Note: I gave the sleeves a real good stretch before throwing it in the dryer, which could explain the lack of shrinkage compared to the body.2 points
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Remember those^ RRR's of mine which i sold to @Thanks_M8 I thought i could swing a 31" but they were a bit too snug anywho.. there is a size 32" listed on Mercari for anyone interested https://zenmarket.jp/en/mercariproduct.aspx?itemCode=m68879704515 They're a fantastic old, rare as fk repro from 1998..2 points
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It looks like I'd be fine with either size. Now I just need to decide if I want a slim or more relaxed fit. Thanks!1 point
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@ASTRO I have a well-worn pair of the Duck Digger 1947 version of the 1001xx in size 31, also in Banner Denim I believe. They've been through many machine washes and dries now. I took some measurements using the Bears method (except for thigh at crotch which they don't report). I feel like they fit slimmer through the thigh and slightly wider in the waist in my experience with them than usual. I'd say that the size 31 though is roughly in the same sizing ballpark as a size 31 from Sugar Cane or a 32 from TCB. Waist (laid flat): 16.2” Thigh at crotch: 11.75” Thigh 10 cm down from crotch: 10.5” Front Rise: 11.75” Knee (eyeballed based on knee bay): 9” Leg opening: 8.25” Inseam: 31” The inseam stayed at 32" for a long time as long as I was careful to hang dry and gently tug on the hems. Once I had a baby, I lost patience for that and they shrunk to their present length (sadly much shorter than I prefer since 32" was even pushing it). They're a great pair of jeans though in great denim. Pulling them out to measure them made me want to put them on again despite their length.1 point
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Yeah l would imagine so too. As a side note, when the red tab was first introduced and advertised in late 1936, the first ways of advertising were to hang these painted flat wooden cut-out cowboy torsos, with an big arrow on the back pointing towards the red tab. At the waist of the top half of the cowboy, there was a massive pair of 501XX nailed to it. I never saw the waist sizes but the inseam was 60 inches! Then at the bottom of each leg, a painted flat wooden cowboy boot was attached, to complete the whole cowboy figure. These were hung outside dry goods stores and retailers in the West in the late 1930's. - sorry about the pic quality, but you get the idea.1 point
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I was reading recently that Gardener were made by Evisu (what we previously suspected) using Evisu denim.. which is why we see the Take5 4 jeans collabs.. (Gardener, Dry Bones, Pherrows, Stormy Blue and such..) but what i didn't know was.. at that time (mid-late 90s) the Evisu factory supervisor's name was Ueki, hence the name on the tab.. it's just a happy accident that it reads Levi's when partially concealed by the pocket..1 point
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So I was to'ing and fro'ing on whether to get a size 42 or a 44 in the Powerwear heavyweight sweatshirt (#2434007) I have FW jackets in size 44 and size 46, so logic says a size 44 in sweatshirts should be good However, for me, the sweatshirt measurements tend to look, or be, generous... though it depends how you want them to fit Also, I'd previously got the Lot #2334011 sweatshirt in size 44 without consulting anyone and it's anomalously massive, even after washing it at 90C and sing the dryer (yes, that's another story) Seiichiro had the idea of sending me both 42 and 44 to help me choose; and asked me to post the comparison (top service from Seiichiro, as always btw). I've never posted on IG so here we go on Sufu I know other Sufu'ers get more shrink from their wash/dry methods, so my measurements are a guide to be used with caution The pictures are pre-wash 42, pre-wash 44 and then washed 42 Anyhow, happy with the size 42 and it seems the right one for me in Freewheelers sweatshirts Size 42 pre-wash / raw Size 44 pre-wash / raw Measurements chart - measurements can vary depending who is taking them - main take-away here is the relative change Ta-da... settled on size 42 And then the bad prince got locked up in the dungeon... and they all lived happily ever after. The end1 point
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My humble western work boots. Not as sleek as my cowboy boots, not quite as clunky as a engineer boot. The fancier footwear gets all the love but these are the real MVPS. These are my rainy/snowy/slushy/wet floor at work/ beaters and they are pretty bulletproof. Thick hard wearing rubber Vibram-esq sole, good grip but great support, and a pretty unremarkable workhorse leather that's starting to patina. Amd maybe the longest wearing heels I've had on boots. They shine up ok but look better dull and dirty. Sedona brand? Made in Mexico. As a bonus, the simple retro rope pattern and shape reminded me of CLINCH, it also gives them vintage vibes.1 point
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