Leaderboard

At Last Lot 147 tux (inc belt skimmer jacket) / Freewheelers / @Duke Mantee / Converse Timeline / Rototo not visible

40s repaired all over

XX Orizzonti lots of repairs all over

Stills from a documentary about the early days of mountain biking. I think late 70s pretty suave dudes and girls

0105 starting to wear thin in a few places now

Evis 2101 lazy S Lee cowboy 101 repro with intact white paint

Hell yeah.

S1001XX banner denim. Repaired all over

Evis 2504 'special' with red and yellow gulls

The pics aren't great... but the Amoskeag repro denim surely is 😊... roll on the jacket and the jeans 😉 Pics 1-3 indoors with the light on... 4-6 outdoors in poor light I took a size 44 rather than opt for (or try my sizing luck with) a snugger fit... so it's pretty voluminous, with many pockets (like CSL has opined already) and the storage space of a modest backpack... I like!!

Tilley, Tender Co. x3, Tezo, Hoggs (+ morning Luvhaus)

Apart from the way they look

Fullcount (46/XXXL) APC (XL)

Evis 2501

I had to get rid of my last APC jacekt as I gained a few pounds and the size L wasn't going to cut it. Picked up this unworn closet (barn) find in XL for under $100. First time wearing it today. APC denim is so damn good.

it's been awhile Brother Bridge Henry horsehide boots; also bought a new pair with different leather, soles and stitching 😁

Unfortunately, not wearing it, but here was the last photo I took of it before I sold.

Just ripped the knee. Repairing these every 5 minutes lately.

First time on post-wash and thread cutting. I have a pretty thin sweat on, however, I am planning on wearing a lot heavier one during winter with this jacket.

J Press/Sugar Cane/Red Wing

By being a multiple purchaser of Rick Owens sneakers is my guess 😁

I just ordered the 220a xx offset in 33x30 from Bears. Never tried STF before so excited and nervous in equal measures. I hope they don't shrink beyond 30inches... Maybe I should have played it safe and got 32 lenght but hemming is a real pain (no chain stitching near me so need to post them out) and I really prefer a no cuff or very thin cuff. I've asked Bears to confirm measurements so hopefully that should help. They're always super helpful

2x Type 492 Bench Shirts today, matching pressed buttons = cross-buttoning madness also feat. Achille’s Heel Type 132

220XX-47 details

Before/After/Aftermath

I'm in a reflective mood today.. In the early to mid 90s i was living in a shithole of a bedsit and barely affording my £28/wk rent.. when it came to buying clothes, my budget wouldn't stretch to new so i just bought vintage.. In the days before the internet, i had no clue as to what i was buying other than the fact they were old Levi's and a quarter of the price of the 501s you could buy on the high street.. A couple of years passed and i started to earn a bit more £££s.. i bought a pair of 555 LVC-47s.. in retrospect, this was probably the first time it occured to me that the vintage Levi's i'd been buying previously could be from different eras (ikr? .. you internet kids don't know you're born) around 2003 i bought another pair of LVC and wanted to get them hemmed.. back then I didn't know what a Union Special was, all i knew was i wanted the hem to be the same as the existing hem.. ie- 'not single stitch' .. i took them to a laundrette who did alterations but they said they couldn't do it.. i would have to find someone with a machine that could chainstitch.. i went down to Ted Williams.. a proper old boys tailor on London Rd who said he could chainstitch but it wouldn't look exactly the same because the hem was done with a chainstitching machine rather than a sewing machine with a chainstitch setting.. plus he didn't think his needles would be strong enough to penetrate the layers of denim.. more confused than ever, i found myself down a gennel and up a rickety fire escape to Terrace Tailors on a Sheffield backstreet.. the room had a massive cross on the wall with candles either side and a polaroid of the tailor himself kissing the hand of Pope John Paul II ..? I explained what i wanted and tape measure around his neck. he took me into another room with a rail full of clothing.. top rail was garments waiting to be altered, bottom rail was altered.. (this is the single most significant part of my entire journey through the denimsphere) he pulled out a pair of SC-47s and showed me the hem.. it blew my tiny mind.. i didn't even know Japanese repros existed.. i almost had to go light one of the candles He said they were from a small menswear shop in Sheff called Brother 2 Brother.. he would hem them (a little longer to allow for shrinkage?) using his sewing machine which could chainstitch.. I knew where B2B was, i'd just never been in, they stocked the likes of Maharishi, D&G, Margaret Howell, Dries Van Noten and such.. (high end streetwear through to mid-range fashion labels) this was well before the 2008 heritage boom so 'menswear' didn't yet equate to costly workwear, shops following the JP retail model didn't exist back then.. Nigel Cabourn was still designing highstreet tat for Debenhams rather than pricey Everest-wear. The guys who worked at B2B were always immaculately dressed (in their shiny shoes) i just wasn't (in my tatty randomly sized vtg Levi's, or skateboard jeans from a previous lifetime . i never went in because my pockets were never deep enough to buy anything, the labels were not my steeze and i felt intimidated by the smartly dressed staff, all of whom were a good 10yrs older than me.. but i was desperate to go nerd out over the Sugarcanes.. Niro (the UK distributor of SC) was established as a clothing store in 1986 but i'm not sure exactly when they became the Sugarcane distributor so maybe these SCs came from Niro or maybe they were bought retail by the B2B buyer on a trip to Japan?.. either of these explanations could account for the eye watering price tags.. my questions were many and looking back.. i think they knew as little about these jeans as i did.. they gave me a 2003 Sugarcane Catalogue (to shut me up) which i've kept.. I think this was the first catalogue Sugarcane ever produced, i've never seen anything predating it. it's on the cusp of the SC product codes after they moved on from M .. it's more substantial, more of a yearbook than the magazine type catalogues which would come thereafter.. in the months following i bought a marked down pair of SC-47s from B2B, returned by a customer because they were too small after washing... the sufu sizedown 3 craze was yet to happen A couple of years later, B2B moved premises to a larger retail space underneath the recently opened West One development (across the road from The Designers Republic) a friend of mine did the electrical work for the shopfit.. he got me the 2006 Sugarcane catalogue, it was in here that i first spotted the LoneWolf Mechanic boots.. the 2010 catalogue which i've posted here previously (MF thread.. years ago) came from Vari. I couldn't afford B2B asking price for Sugarcanes so i found myself on the internet.. Hirofumi Udono at Vari was great to deal with, he spoke perfect English and was willing to ship internationally. He lined me up with Hawaii's, Lonewolf boots, Whitesville & Cushman sweats..ect.. i was wearing SC-47s around the time my kid was born in 2009.. (another reason why I’m so attached to them) i didn't do WAYWT back then.. i didn't have the balls but seen here (blurry candid shot) loading the car up with Woolrich Woolen Mills, chambray Upland shirt from the Daiki Suzuki era I found myself here at sufu around 2006/7.. anyway.. enough of all this reminiscing.. Maynard spotted these while searching for his recently acquired SC-66 and gave me a hola.. ..knowing my pathetic inability to resist.. i didn't .. so In a nostalgic denim haze, i've dug out the rest of my SC-47 collection. ..first 4 pairs are raw denim, last pair are current wearers but previously o/w, check out he different hues ..from left, 1991-1997.. 2003-2007 I took this shot of he o/w pair back in 2013 before chucking them on the pile ..i've just got them back from a hem job at soas so i've recreated it A bit more graff, a few extra MMs on the waistline and the JMC sweat is a little more faded 2003 & 2006 Catalogues can be seen here

Having used the great group of people here as a bountiful resource for many months, I figured it was time to post some photos for the first time and share my two first TCB purchases - the Baker pant and 20's jacket. Starting with the 20s jacket, I'd first to like to thank @istewi and @blooming for the great advice regarding shrinkage and sizing. I ended up going for a size 44 off of primarily the chest measurements (I am around 172cm tall with a 50-51cm chest and weigh about 75kg) which felt like a daunting jump from my usual size but I think it worked out well. I wanted to be able to wear it across as many seasons as possible given the fabric's lighter weight so this size allows me to wear with either a t-shirt or a sweatshirt underneath (I've even managed to fit it under my Barbour). The sleeves need to be cuffed once, as I expected, but the cuff isn't bulky at all and I quite like how it looks. I am concerned it is a little on the longer side regarding overall body length, as it sits around 2.5-3cm below my belt (around 1-1.5inches) so I'd love any feedback on the fit! I love the weight and hairiness of the fabric and also appreciate that Inoue finds it is one of their more accurate repro fabrics to its respective era...can't wait to see how it fades! As the 20's fabric is prone to shrinkage (according the nice people at TCB, whom I ordered from and were also very helpful over instagram via sizing), below are my experiences with movement after a warm wash and 30 minutes in the tumble dryer: PRE-WASH Shoulder width - 49 (-1 from TCB measurements) Chest width - 53.5 ( = TCB measurements) Length - 63.5 (+1 TCB measurements) Sleeve length - 62 (-1 TCB measurements) POST-WASH Shoulder width - 48 Chest width - 52 Length - 62 Sleeve length - 62 Onto the Baker pant - I picked these up as I saw them posted a couple times here as well, and they seemed like a great idea having spent the last year with my legs swathed exclusively in denim. I got them in a size L with a waist size that hovers around 30-31 (although I had not experienced anything quite as high a rise as these yet so I was thankful for the wiggle room the side tabs allowed for). I wanted to wear these with the side adjuster tabs both buttoned as the fabric sticks out otherwise and in case I teeter into the dirty side of bulking -- the measurement guide on Bears was very accurate. They are light and very roomy in the thighs and as I am on the shorter side the taper that TCB has added seems less pronounced when wearing on my body. Lovely texture and immediately soft to wear with what I think is quite a reasonable price tag. Please excuse the Muji house slippers in the photos!

Havasupai men in shelter. Looks like someone is making new shoes... (1919 Glass negative from Frederick Webb Hodge)

@PrettyBoyTony you'll be sound I'm sure! Exciting, such a great pair for your first raw jeans!

I think you'll be happy with the 33, mate!

Let's see some fit pics @MJF9! Denim looks nice, looking forward to seeing it on the Sunny chore coat.

I totally agree with this, I’m thinking of downsizing to an iPad mini from my current iPhone Max ∞

More vintage love a studio d' Artisan model from the mid 90's the lot number i cant remember due to it wearing off and the care labels fading, and another EVIS 2101 Lee cowboy 101 reproduction with a more intact lazy S paint

@Maynard Friedman ok cool, thanks for the info, I will try to dig up the post with your pair :). Just tried them and they seem to fit quite nicely even though I'm not used to the fit. What do you guys say, keep or sell?

15yrs ago.. i bought a bunch of JMC sweatshirts 10yrs ago the gray one, still looked like this ..and today, i've never worn it for work ..bit of bleach.. bit of bitumen ..even though it's battered, and by far the most worn of the bunch, i always choose it from the wardrobe.. i can't help it.. it just feels so comforting i think that'll only change when i buy a new one to replace it.. alas, with McCoy's prices

Long time lurker first time poster. The Muramasa guy has also listed versions of 1943 jacket with fake Tenderloin patch (well I guess Levis and Sweet Orr inspired with the tug of war design?) https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=1159072045 This seems to be the dude https://www.instagram.com/muramasa_glove/?hl=en and https://www.instagram.com/muramasa_jeans_factory/?hl=en Rakuten store (no jeans for sale on there though, just Mickey Mouse logo'd fake Rolexes and box logo tees) https://item.rakuten.co.jp/royal-west/c/0000000121/ From his Facebook he does genuinely seem to be in Osaka https://www.facebook.com/yuya.shiozaki.5 and likes Triathlon a lot. I think Takuya Kimura comes into it because Kimura seems to wear a genuine obscure Japanese brand called SC Subculture https://sc-subculture.jp. Some of the Muramasa stuff is also sold with a Subculture patch and pictures of Kimura (eg. https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=n1159212942) SC Subculture's boss' instagram posting about Kimura https://www.instagram.com/p/C1vTqR9Pckn/?next=%2Fbluegodzi%2Ftagged%2F&locale=在线定制塔吉克斯坦TEF证书联系{威信%2BTG%2F飞机%3A%40buth2788}sjwNH%3F%3F%3F%3F%3F%3Fѧ%3F%3FƾSwQuO&img_index=1 not sure if Kimura actually talks about the brand on his YouTube or is just wearing Subculture in the video. I think the Kiwami items are intended to mimic Neatstyle as they have the same blank patch with just WWII and waist size. I find it kind of strange/funny cause you wouldn't think Neatstyle would be big enough to be worth bootlegging. What I do enjoy is that he seems to use a bunch of different red tabs (Tenderloin jacket has IRON'S red tab). Although it all seems a bit fishy to me, they do seem to sell for reasonable money eg. this used Muramasa jacket on 2nd Street (which also shows inner tag) https://en.2ndstreet.jp/goods/detail/goodsId/2340110413269/shopsId/31327 and some competitive bidding on Y! as mentioned above.

From mostly only wearing boots, I've turned into a bit of a sneakerhead now. Anyway, here is one of my favourite sneakers to wear during fall. New Balance 990v4 'olive incense' colourway with my Oni 546-ZR

EVIS 2101 lazy 'S' with pale blue paint Lee cowboy 101 homage, around 1990

Is anyone knowledgeable on the black Red Wing leathers? For engineers the main ones seem to be RW Chrome and Klondike. The fades look a bit different. 2268 from the 90s with Chrome leather The 2966 with Klondike leather. The 9060 is a flat toe Beckmans, also with Klondike. It was recently offered in US stores and last year in some European shops in relation with the Munich store anniversary. But it's mostly sold out now. It has been available in Japan for many years. I think, it was also RW Japan, that had developed it. Mr Suzuki of Two Monkeys and Ol Shanks amongs other had a hand in it, if I remember correctly. Perhaps we'll see it in the European shops next year. Not sure, how popular it would be. It also looks nice worn.

A couple more recent purchases. Rick Owens high top Ramones in stone coated denim. Super comfortable, feel more like boots on foot. I like the side zip for convenience. New Balance x Kith 990v4. Been on a big NB kick the last couple of years. Honestly I didn't expect to win these when I entered the raffle.

some of my denim bits.... 1.levis 501 xx 1927 2. levis 501xx 1933 3. hellers cafe - larrys collection 4. silverstone ground -alls 5 samurai lot 17 6. evisu no.2 7. stevensons overalls lot 727 8. sugar cane SC40200 x toyo enterprises 9. Evis lot 2504

Dancing with my boy

Here’s my other pair of 3005, my main jeans at the moment. I think these have been worn about ten months. Washed three times.

129’s (woad) after another wash - these are a size 2. Again close ups are more accurate colors. Repairs have all just been seam reinforcement/overstitching aside from the hand stitched button hole reinforcement with the only thread I had around at that moment (contrast stitching!) - and no shortage of those but still simple enough. Crotch darning is imminent, but this is definitely the toughest denim I’ve put this much wear into - a relatively slim fit and probably over 18 months (and maybe closer to 2 years) of real wear and it’s still intact, which is probably a record. Eventually I’d love to beat up a pair of 132’s in a size 2…but so many pairs to get to first.

My 1001s, from back in 2014: And a grail-level pair of 1005s I photographed at TFH headquarters back in 2013:

My very small and humble Evisu jeans collection. And my beloved No. 1 Specials from 15 years ago. See you guys next year.

Found this odd pair of Evis 2501. Bull patch, red line, but no crotch rivet or coin pocket rivets. A bit WWII-esque. Never seen it before.

Sassafras Gardeners jacket 10 years, bought in Brodism (Sassafras own-label store) in Kyoto. 14 oz jap denim Never washed, we dont wash jackets around here

Was wearing Japan Blue yesterday... Very refreshing water temp in the San Juans.