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Tender / Hollows / Cane’s / Birks

!!!UPDATE!!! We (or rather Simone) got an aswer from Collect about denim availability. There are 2 rolls available right now of the RS1950-ROW of which Simone needs at least one for us. The R501-UF is not available and the production schedule has been postponed until March '25. So we are glad the majority of people voted for the RS1950 (and honestly, we are happy that there is still stock...). This brings us to the following situation: We can most likely start this whole thing earlier than "planned" (meaning before Christmas) We would need the deposits earlier as well and I talked with Simone and we agreed on September 13th (the deposit would be 140 € payed either via PayPal [F&F preferred but not mandatory of course] or bank transfer) This is necessary so Simone can order the denim and is not left with fabric that he doesn't need. More info about how to pay will follow. sorgas311@gmail.com for PayPal As for the 25 spots not taken until September 13th, we agreed that the last spots can also be filled later. As for cut and sizing: this is not yet important for the deposit, this decision can made later (I will clarifiy this with Simone again until he needs a final cut and size decision).

great comparison: def gets to the core subtle differences: appreciated! staying with the m-1951s… post overalls-tcb-vintage-timberland

Bad lighting good luneria harvest Tilley / Ooe / Sure x TCB / Hollows / The Vanishing West / Nick’s

working at home (flat is freezing) and trip to local supermarket (freezing with air con)!!! plus: any slim opportunity to layer is taken!!! (plus: prepping a/w teaching material goes hand in hand with prepping a/w fitz!)

My two penneth on the vintage style sweatshirt game is that the Cushman lot 26903 cannot be beaten. Providing they don't change the materials or pattern, I'm set for life for sweaters, I've no need to go anywhere else!

A 6-month fade drag race has potential to be quite the spectacle! Though would probably only encourage behaviour the likes of which we have documented and discussed recently on the blunders and general nonsense thread.

That's what's gonna separate the men from the boys 😂

Said sweater, not sure what I’m doing there in that second photo - trying to fly away?!

@efujobu1 No real cut off date as of yet but when the 25 spots are taken, they are taken. With that said, 18 persons DM'd me so far which means there are still 7 spots open. Not everybody who shown interest in the thread has DM'd me but also people who didn't voice the interest openly did write me. Edit: 20 people now!

Ship John Holcomb. The denim is a 14oz black/grey from Nihon Menpu These were gifted to me late last year and only ever get worn on date nights. I don't see myself really breaking these in but figured I might as well share them here I was looking for black jeans a few years ago and gave up. These sort of scratched the itch but the cut is slimmer than I'd like. They are really flattering though

Ready when you are. Thanks for getting this together so clearly and quickly!

Update: months later and after several rounds of emails and photos submitted to PayPal, they actually refunded me the full purchase price....I don't know if that means RC8X paid for it or if PayPal did but I feel a small amount of justice has been done. Grailed still has this A hole's stuff up there [some of it is $19,999 wtaf] so that is unfortunate. TL/DR: don't buy from RC8X under any circumstances, triple check your sources, triple check the photos and authenticity of the garment, ask questions, and proceed with caution in the wild Wild West of pre owned ACR. If you get scammed, relentlessly pursue a proper outcome.

maths was never my strong point: carry on, whoopsie!!

@Alec LeamasI have 2 regular sleeve Cushman sweats and one freedom sleeve model and l can say that they are definitely worth their weight in gold quality wise. Apart from the neck being slightly too tight they are perfect IMHO. The freedom sleeve is 16 years old and the other two turn 10 this year! Well worth the 100 quid each l paid for them (speedway shop online). I still have 2 og buzz sweats which now reside at the GF's house in London but they are like made out of kitchen towel compared to the Cushmans!

Number Name 1 b_F 2 MJF9 3 JRendon02 4 UkeNo 5 JohnM 6 reallypeacedoff 7 nopal 8 Jared_Lee 9 fabes 10 vIGGiou_riou 11 81611 12 Alec Leamas 13 ashgiovanni 14 aho 15 srudy 16 Lazerr 17 bartlebyyphnics 18 frank 19 theguywhoknewthatguy 20 broark 21 julian_wolf 22 23 24 25

At Last Co, open and buttoned / Butcher Products / Gildan / @Duke Mantee / TSPTR x S&S

Interesting question @bartlebyyphonics - thanks for this... Ooe x Bandanna Almanac v FW 'double' leg Both 10oz, both dungaree denim though sure they will age differently Fit-wise... FW is more voluminous and is heavier simply by virtue of more fabric (750g Ooe v 900g FW, weighed them!) Ooe more fitted in the hip / top block and straight leg, akin to stovepipe. But still plenty of space. FW are wider in hip by c5cm Both have same FR (35cm) but FW have much bigger BR by c7cm (a whopping 52cm for FW v a sizeable 45cm Ooe) In terms of the legs... Ooe 'double' leg starts at the pocket. In fact, at the large 'coin' pocket there are 3 layers of denim (see pic). Notably though, they don't feel 3 layers worth of heaviness. Ooe 'double' leg ends at the row of stitching above the hem and, interestingly, at that row of stitching only part of it is stitched to the denim underneath (see pic) FW 'double' leg starts at the thigh but runs all the way down to, and including, the hem The back of the jeans both have a cinch but have differences e.g. Ooe single pocket, FW double plus. Let me know if anyone wants more info and photos and I can post that in an appropriate thread.

got to visit a local nursery legend today. Jerry is a bit of a godfather when it comes to carnivorous plants specifically Sarracenia/pitcher plants. It was amazing to see all of his greenhouses and hybrids he’s made.

Some more angles of the 220XX-47. I'm really pleased with these, and going to make them my daily for a while.

Continued... Cable car up Mount Trebevic, site of the 1984 Winter Olympics in Bosnia… and the abandoned bobsled Watched FK Sarajevo win 3-1, more than my own club could muster It was the 30th Sarajevo Film Festival so we watched a few films, documentaries actually… recommending The Sky Above Zenica and a striking short documentary called Pain (intense) We were back row, the projector was behind me and Junior MJF9... perfect for casting shadows at the credits!! Then onto the next stop (Mostar) via Sarajevo’s beautifully brutal railway station

A week in Sarajevo… incoming double post… do look away if it’s too many pics! Such a wondeful vibrant place, steeped in good and bad history… sure the multi-religions, multi-ethnicities, multi-cultures would have lived, and live, much more harmoniously if it wasn’t for toxic politics that sadly persists everywhere today Our digs right next to the Latin Bridge Bullet holes on the walls from the 1993-95 war and Seige of Sarajevo, lasting 1,425 days The old town It wasn’t me! It was to prove denim was involved… the site where Gavrilo Princip shot Franz Ferdinand which kicked off WW1

Got to visit the new Seattle Aquarium expansion today. I helped install the piping for all of the sea life areas. Crazy that I was inside that huge tank when it was empty.

Meanwhile, the one thing I have from Bronson that hasn’t fallen apart has been a really huge success Wore this most days for probably around 2–3 years from ~2016 onwards, and even now it still sees a few days of sunlight each month Great denim, great execution. Overall I probably prefer the Union Special version, but not by a large margin

^ Tezomeya - certainly for the larger size called 185cm these are longer and good for tucking - the link has chest/length sizes to see if they'd work for you

Do we have confirmation on what the final price will be? Sorry if it was already stated and I missed it

Wouldn't that be quite short?

Probably I think I counted 4 people on this thread that haven't DM'd me so far but they all wrote they will decide based on cut/price/details. So maybe they are not interested anymore.

Not yet. Simone has a small batch he needs to produce with priority but after that we mainly have to rely on the denim supply. Once we have a clearer view on delivery dates for the denim we can manage the deadline for ordering/deposit and then we wil lalso decide until when we need the decision on cut and size.

So tempting. 47 cut with short inseam would be my preference like Aho but maybe a little longer. Lol @beautiful_FrEaK when is the cut off date for a decision to join?

Adding the measurements so we can estimate the shrinkage... Pre-wash 1st wash 2nd wash ~shrinkage w/ wear Waist: 36” 33” 33.5" 2.5" Front rise: 12.5” 11.5” 11.5" 1" Back rise: 17” 15.5” 15.5" 1.5" Thighs: 13.5” 12.5” 13" 0.5" Knee: 10.25” 9.25” 9.5" 0.75" Leg opening: 9.25” 8.75” 8.75" 0.5" Inseam: 34” 31” 30.75" 3.25"

Pre-wash 1st wash 2nd wash ~shrinkage Waist: 36” 33” 33.5" 2.5" Front rise: 12.5” 11.5” 11.5" 1" Back rise: 17” 15.5” 15.5" 1.5" Thighs: 13.5” 12.5” 13" 0.5" Knee: 10.25” 9.25” 9.5" 0.75" Leg opening: 9.25” 8.75” 8.75" 0.5" Inseam: 34” 31” 30.75" 3.25"

My first measurements might have been shit or the denim stabilised after stretching. Both washes at 30°C in the machine with a "jeans wash programme". Line dried. The denim has a more prominent red cast now, small veins and the puckering is...superb 2nd Wash Waist: 33.5" Front rise: 11.5" Back rise: 15.5" Thighs: 13" Knee: 9.5" Leg opening: 8.75" Inseam: 30.75"

8 months in...12 washes, 1 soak.

Those Boncouras look awful, imo. But if the wearer is happy with them, I love it! Anyway, based on Ooe shrink experience and what b_F reported for shrink on his 411, I think I'm eyeing a 36 in the 5150. 😬

Found this patch at Desolation Row and customized an ultima thule hat.

I think you may like a looser fit. What I meant about the v-insert is that it is a different fabric but simply overlaid on the sweatshirt fabric. Other sweatshirts have a v-insert that is a different fabric and sewn into a v-shaped gap in the neck of the sweatshirt. I’m glad you like yours but I would probably take anything over mine.

@NilsLW are you speaking about the old Buzz sweatshirts or the newer style (which have probably been around for 10 years now!). My experience is that the older style were shorter, boxier and smaller all round for that vintage style fit but in reality, sizing up is advisable. I had 2 in size M but sold them as they were a bit too small. The fabric seemed good though iirc. I’ve had the newer style in olive in size L for about 10 years and it seems loose and shapeless, I should’ve sized down to a M. The neck v-insert is sewn on to the fabric rather than a separate piece inserted into the space and the fabric seems a bit thin and stretchy. I wouldn’t recommend them at all and I sold a red one I had. I have a number of Deluxeware sweats, which are far superior in fabric and fit and unless these were to change, I wouldn’t buy anything else.

I have just seen that Warehouse updated the Denime graphic and have now shared it on the blog on their site, this version makes a bit more sense!

Got this ONI coverall jacket listed on eBay UK with a £135 buy it now. Not sure if these are available still but rrp was around £350. Really nice jacket, fabric sort of is a cross between a denim and a super heavy cotton twill. Only selling as I’m too fat to button it up now.

New jeans came in the mail today. I’ll need to hem them… uniqlo/sugar cane 321/birk Edit: after a hem.

my buddy is a farmer and finally took my advice to try some Freewheelers after trashing his ROY and WH Ranch jeans. These are his 601b after about 2-3 weeks of work on the farm and a wash/dryer.

An update on my TCB 50s at the roughly one year mark after rotating through with my Warehouse pair. I really like how the slubbiness pops out over time although it’s a bit hard to tell in these photos

About a month in the 1890. Cool jeans I think.

Not really denim, but enjoying a Starbucks on a Saturday morning.

220XX-47 fit At the very slimmest of the spectrum of fits for me, but comfortable nonetheless. Wearing the FC 0105’s immediately prior to this pair probably emphasised that!

I received my pair of the 220XX last night that I ordered from Bears. I did 1 soak so far and will throw them in the washing machine here in the next few days. I haven't tried them on yet, but they do seem a little bit bigger than the 220A pair I got in a size 31 - which is good because the 220A size 31 are too tight for me after shrinking them.

220XX-47’s arrived yesterday. First thing I noticed when unpackaging them was how light they feel in comparison to the 220A offset model. The fit plus the weight of those just was not for me, but the same cut/fit with this lighter material is much better. I’ve laid them out with 1000XX DSB and 1001XX banner denim to compare, photos not great but in real life the denim is fairly regular in texture, quite smooth and a really lush dark blue. It's overall really nice looking and feeling. I bought these one-washed from Warehouse and also had them hem them, judging by the original hem these will rope to high heaven. (Ideal as my current obsession with getting the most imperfectly perfect roping on the hem is hitting a peak). Not included a fit pic yet but the fit on me in size 34 I would describe as "smart", i.e. snug but comfortable through the upper half then straight down from the knee. The one-wash process (unsure exactly what process WH use) seems to have been fairly heavy duty so here's hoping these remain as a comfortable "smart" pair. There are some real "Ghost of Hayashi" vibes present. Also noted the immediate presence of the trademark lightning strike on the coin pocket. These are currently in a cool wash, getting that hem nice and puckered (honestly it is an obsession), then I'm kind of spoilt for choice at the moment but once things cool down towards the end of this month I can see myself wearing these a lot. I'm interested to see how the fabric fades in comparison to the 220A fabric (as masterfully displayed by @beautiful_FrEaK!!)

Received the 163 today. I love it, but just find the arm to be restricting. The arm hole is a lot smaller / higher than most. i put a picture comparing it to Freewheelers’ 601xx 1942. It's about 1.25 - 1.5 inches smaller

Got some new stuff in Tokyo and since my trip too: koverall jacket and painter pants ivory herringbone work trousers linen/cotton work trousers black sports jacket Java rayon shirt