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So far 21 people have voiced their interest! Of course, the final count will depend on details, price and the like. Simone is in the middle of nowhere right now, but he told me he is following this thread closely. So he sees all your requests and remarks. Still, I try to channel this through me directly to him. Be warned though, in the next 1-2 weeks we are awating our second child which means, I might be less available for some time Point we are discussing so far: which denim we will use will we allow all available cut? (my vote would be 'yes' so we can please everyone) which details should be customizable for the contestants? (Simone does everthing on his own so he is totally flexible but we have to see how much this impacts the production, costs and possible risk to mix something up) pizza shaped arcs (if possible, then optinal I think) and custom patch price

SC LVC 1961 Type III. 557XX RMC tee SC painters shorts Paraboots

I didn't resist.... LVC MiJ Type III. 557XX 1961. Bears have it for reasonable price....

Here’s an update on my Duck Digger 1947 in Banner Denim after about a year of my own ownership. I’ve rode them pretty hard all summer. Unfortunately I had to get a little less precious about drying so now I’m forced to wear them Hayashi-style. On the positive side though, it’s giving nice marbling

Watch the first post guys, I will update it with more information soooooon! Edit: and done! More info about the possible denim will follow!

my buddy is a farmer and finally took my advice to try some Freewheelers after trashing his ROY and WH Ranch jeans. These are his 601b after about 2-3 weeks of work on the farm and a wash/dryer.

That would be Shinya Mills c/o: Paul T interview with Full Count’s Miki-san

Filson SLC jacket Runabout jeans Nicks boots

Hello! Thought I'd post my 714s on here. 6 months of regular wear. I was planning on not washing these much to see if I could get a bit more contrast but with young kids that hasn’t been possible. They are still starting to get interesting though and I really like the denim. These are a 32 33. I probably should have gone with a 33 for less of a fitted look. Maybe next time

repeating others: but best option imo is to have: the variables as cut and pizza arc the constants as WoM sourced denim (somewhere between 12-14oz pls…) and patch design… in terms of denim i would welcome what WoM can offer rather than a plethora of requests… givens the expressions of interest seems something appropriate to 40s and 50s is the most appropriate… and good luck with the upcoming nativity! hard to juggle two forms of nascence!!!

An update on my TCB 50s at the roughly one year mark after rotating through with my Warehouse pair. I really like how the slubbiness pops out over time although it’s a bit hard to tell in these photos

A warehouse sweat probably won't blow you away right away. Modern mass produced sweatshirts from Champion and similar brands are not bad at imitating a quality feeling out of the box, compared to modern denim which doesn't feel much like real denim at all. I bought a Champion sweat last year for a football game and it feels great in the hand, not that different from a 401. The best qualities of warehouse's sweats mostly come out over time by allowing the garment to gracefully age. The sweat will hold its shape, resist pilling and tearing, the brushed interior holds its structure and continues to feel comfortable against the skin, and it will fade attractively along its seams. You have to love wearing it long enough for it to 'pay off' though. edit: I own a 403, a 450 and a 409. Agree with you that the pointy hoods on a lot of loopwheeled hoodies are unfortunate... obviously a different connotation in jp.

Well worn pair of early eighties redline 501's. Has the same 10% shrinkage as the last pair, visible on the wash tag, as well as the date of manufacture. Again with black flag bar tacking and the short span of bar tacking across the belt loop, but there is no extra circle on the reverse of the rivet (although still white stitching on the inside but only around the coin pocket). As before another 524 buttoned 501 redline, made at the EL Paso factory but this pair made in 1981. Nice roping too!

Limit of participants: 25 Duration of the contest: 18 months Prize: 3rd and 4th classifies 40% discount on a new order 2nd a free pair of jeans 1st a free WWII Type-1 Jkt. Each participant can chose the cut/model Available cuts: 311 (slim straight): a 60s cut if you so will. All orange stitching. Hidden rivets can be added if you want 411 (40s cut): late 40s (clean fly but raw crotch, seams color as desired) or WWII (raw fly, raw crotch, hbt pocket, more wonkyness, all yellow seams, no coin rivets) 5150 (kinda 50s cut, tribute to Eddie van Halen): all orange stitching 611 or S411 (same model): buckle back/reversed yoke construction, hidden rivets, crotch rivets, mixed orange yellow stitches, Yellow/black chain on the inside belt. If desired i could add a ‘42ish version with no buckle back, same fit, crotch rivets seams color as desired, standard yoke construction. Please refer to the size charts. Update: odd sizes can be made! A custom leather patch is possible. Pizza shaped arcs is a no no Choices of denim. The Poll is OPEN! 1. RS1950-ROW Cotton origin: USA Mill: Shinya Loom: Ensyu (Enshu) Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 62 x 46 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate 2. RS501-UF Cotton origin: USA & Australia Mill: Kaihara Loom: Toyoda Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 67 x 48 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate Denim No.1 is the denim used on my sample pair. It's rather new to Simone. Denim No.2 is Simone's "standard" denim where he has the most experience with. Comparison between RS1950 (left) and RS501 (right): His own pair made with RS501 was worn for 10 months and washed approx every 2 weeks: Price: Simone offers the jeans for a lower price of 280€ + shipping! Payment will be 50% on order, rest when the jeans are finished. This will allow him to book the denim (before production) and to offer also embossed labeled buttons for all models except WWII version.

After hemming

I am interested in this as well.. as for a fit, the 40's fit looks nice.

@dum_surfer I have several fit pics across the board of both but unfortunaley they are at different weights... If you fear the 711 will be too small, just buy a bigger size The different rise has a big impact. 1946 in W34 and I am heavier 711 in W34 and I am slimmer

Early eighties 505. Nothing special about these particularly but look quite good fade wise. White overlocked stitching to the non-selvedge outseam (folded over so no train tracks), black flag bar tacking and double stitch back pockets. Steel topped anodized button with a Talon 42 zipper. No inside label present. There's a pinkish tinge to them so must've been washed with a red item that bled (not me tho).

Pair of redline 501's made in 1978. 8% shrinkage on the wash tag (changed to 10% around '80/81) and no white internal stitching around crotch/front pockets/yoke so definitely late 1970s. Also poly-cotton looks different, not so orangey/nylony as the early 80s poly. Bar tacking on back pockets is from earlier gen redlines as it's a lylaccy-grey, rather than dark blue/black, and looks more cotton than poly-cotton. Bar-tacking across belt loops is wider, although not as wide as the Bar tacking on pre-1978 501's. Double lock-stitch on the inside of the back pockets so just after the switch from the Single Stitch redline model (1974-77). Lastly, oxidisation on the button fly also visible on the denim button hole. Number 6 on the button back which corresponds to the label. The number 6 apparently belongs to the 3 california. factories Lovely roping!

TCB / SC / FW’43 / Cons

something that’s not denim for the thread Nonnative Xolo bracelet Phigvel tshirt Phigvel white canvas painter trousers Redwing 8179

Dusty boots hanging at the Ren Faire last weekend. Same old same old. T shirt is from my friends Nancy and Kitty's awesome garage punk duo The Ex- Bombers.

Nice to pick up a Samurai shirt that fits me well: nice texture

Been wanting some bootcut jeans, and finally found a pair on eBay. Sugar Cane 321, post 2006 since they have no tabs or arcs. They need a hem. denim is hairy

New jeans came in the mail today. I’ll need to hem them… uniqlo/sugar cane 321/birk Edit: after a hem.

Thanks a lot!!!

It's Samurai trying to "protect" overseas retailers from being undercut by buying from Japan for far less than the crazy markups. We've seen this kind of thing happen before, notable with Pure Blue Japan a few years ago where they dumped retailers like Okayama Denim and Denimio, probably due to protests from overseas specialty shops. But I've never heard of any brand just not allowing any Japanese retailers to list on Rakuten at all, it's hard to imagine they could actually enforce that since it'd undercut domestic sales for stores to have no online listings at all for a brand like Samurai. That's putting out a fire by bombing the whole building. The postscript saying to email them if you can't find a product on their site you're looking for, wink and a nod, suggests that they want you to just contact them directly and you'll still be able to buy that way. Warning: rant/spicy commentary incoming! I kind of understand both sides on this issue, but since personally I'm mostly buying deadstock or used clothes off Japanese sites like Yahoo Auctions or Mercari for a fraction of the price of comparable new items from an American retailer, I don't really care at this point. At this stage in life I'm unable, or at least unwilling, to summon the cash to pay the bonkers US retailer prices of new items by Japanese heritage brands, so I try to make my buck go as far as it can buying straight from Japanese secondhand sites. Some things, like sweatshirts or tees, I absolutely prefer to buy in person and don't mind a little markup in exchange for knowing I like the fit and fabric. But with jeans, it's easy for me to buy sight unseen and know what I'm getting if measurements are posted. As an added bonus you often find older versions of jeans, etc. with discontinued features like arcs and tabs on auction sites, which in the case of brands like Samurai is nice since the "old" versions are more distinct than the watered-down, more export-oriented design. Lots of other brands (like Full Count) have done this over the past few years and it always seems to correlate with a dilution of the brand's identity as well as hiked-up prices where you pay more cash for a more generic jean. Back in the day brands like Flat Head and Iron Heart responded to the Levi's lawsuit by revamping their products to have a more unique, less Levis-ripoff-y identity, but in recent years the trend seems to be just eliminating anything that makes a brand stand out from other plain featureless repro jeans.

imma in: either 30s or 40s… thanks for the organising @beautiful_FrEaK

I’m curious. Any of the 30s, 40s or 50s would appeal to me. I don’t necessarily need more jeans at the moment and there are other pairs that also catch my eye, but the idea of supporting a small maker and participating (even casually) has its appeal depending on price and details

I am interested. Though with my work dress code, I couldn't be a serious contender. Keep us updated on what WoM is willing to do on its end. A standard 5150 would work just fine for me. Collect is my favorite Japanese mill (not sure who makes FC's 13.75oz fabric).

Been lurking but seemed like a good time to join in as I would like to see this take off. I'm interested (though awaiting price). Would grab a 30s cut in a size 35.

517's from circa 1975. Single Stitch back pockets, earlier orange poly cotton stitching, earlier type bar tacking on back pockets, 3% shrinkage on inner label indicating sanforized denim. Overlock stitching on non-selvedge busted seam (something that was used on sanforized denim by levis since c.1960) - but has been forever folded over so no train tracks Bar-tacking on belt loops is as wide as the belt loop itself so a pre 1977 feature. It has LS2109 stamped on the front right pocket bag (?)

Dark pair of 501 redlines sz 30x38 (so 1501 0117, The 1 prefix being the code for 38 inch leg length). Made in 1983, has the 'black-flag' type of bar tack, more prevalent in the 1981-84 period. Extra circle on the reverse of the rivet indicates early 80s also. Notice the short bar tack strip attaching the belt loop to the jean. White stitching around the inside vertical or horizontal yoke indicates 1982 onwards. Date on the inside wash tag is March '83. The denim changed gradually around 1977-79 and this denim has the more eighties bulkier/fluffier feel to it than the distinct vertical fading of the late 1970s.

Just a small distraction from the excitement of the WoM contest crew and their future plans. It's a bit like when BBC2 puts on a film for those who are bored of the Olympics on BBC1 😉 Anyways, l've posted these items below before - All used to be jeans owned by me: XX jeans and XX shorts, 2x pairs of V stitch Big E shorts (that were once jeans) and a donor big E waist chain daisy Duke shorts. Once the Big E jeans were too trashed, my Mrs made shorts out of them. We still keep all these bits as keepsakes from Our bygone era (1990s). But whilst rooting around l also found three pairs of redlines, a pair of 505's and a pair of 517's which haven't seen the light of day for quite a while and certainly haven't been posted before, so l thought l'd share them as there's a few 1980's 501 fans in here... Ps. I have no control over the photo orientation, it seems Sufu still has a mind of its own, despite preemptive editing.

About a month in the 1890. Cool jeans I think.

After looking over the size charts and seeing your shrinkage b_F (not George Costanza's of Seinfeld, but your jeans) , I'd probably lean toward the 5150. And, as usual, in an unavailable size (37).

Decided to keep these slim chinos due to weight loss. Phigvel Phigvel Vans

runabout tux again Nicks boots

Some more angles of the 220XX-47. I'm really pleased with these, and going to make them my daily for a while.

I'd say, that the BR Orig Spec fit a bit smaller. The 36 is closer to the WH 34. I think. It might be a bit bigger. But very similar. I got the Orig Spec in 34, but then got a pair in 36, which I prefer as it is more comfortable.

Sold

^ The way the pattern is cut makes all the difference. This is why some brands’ jeans (like Sugar Cane or Warehouse) seem to fit almost everyone pretty well and some brands’ jeans (like ONI or N&F) manage to fit almost no one: patterning and grading are really not straightforward. It’s not possible to tell how jeans (a 3D object) will fit—or how two pairs of jeans will compare to each other—based on a few 1D measurements any more than it’s possible to look at a few measurements and use that to produce a functioning pattern for a pair of jeans. That said, if you’re just looking at how the legs fit, you’re at a pretty big advantage here since both pairs are cut with straight outseams to accommodate the edges of the denim. If they hit your crotch at the same point (which, admittedly, is a pretty big if), you should be able to tell everything about how they’ll fit your legs by separately measuring the widths of the front and back panels at a few places. My bet would be that one pair has an inseam that sits appreciably farther forward than the other’s, towards the crotch—and that they’re probably cut with fairly different curves through the crotch and seat.

And with a hoodie, for good measure, this is fitting exactly as I’d hoped. Will whack it through another wash and dry and then patiently wait for some colder weather, while of course looking for a summer unlined version that fits the same without the layers.

Picked up the lined DSB Type 1. Given it a warm wash and dry, looking a teensy bit larger than I would have liked but I got the lined as an autumn / winter / spring jacket and wanted to be able to fit a t shirt/shirt with a flannel/hoodie underneath so perhaps it’s perfect. One thing I am totally sure of is I have instantly caught the denim jacket bug. Oh dear.

Continuing from the above post, A big thank you to whom ever it was that sent me these photos via lg a couple of days ago. Looking at the rest of the set of pics here it look like they have all the hallmarks of the 1942 501XX except in this case the buckle looks silver as opposed to the black one we'd normally expect or it could be the lighting putting a shine on it? Also this pair has alot of dual orange and yellow stitching, unlike Larry's deadstock pair on the previous page which in King of Vintage Vol.4 has mostly yellow. Rounded hidden rivets post-1940 and copper coated fly button backs, which l've not seen before on a pair of 1941 or 1942 501's.