Tender Co. Denim

[wgmds]

don't get me wrong, i love the pre 1940s style cuts on people who can wear it. having very slim thighs (my warehouse measure 10.5 and the thigh on the 130 is about an 11.5. i would wear the bigger cuts if they worked better on me. i love seeing people wearing the rising sun repros and mister freedom creations. it's just this body type. i love the stuff that you do and i love how connected you are to your fan base, so that's why i am so insistant to do my best to find a pair that fits. i just got off of the superdenim chat, and they said that i could just exchange the 130 for the 129 when they get them in stock. that sounds good to me.

keep doing--or at least wearing--the anti-fit thing. it's a great look on you! hopefully tender round 3 will be my last round in purgatory.

Edited May 11, 2012 by wgmds

[Maynard Friedman]

wgmds,

I think that's the right call. I'm not a fan of slimmer jeans at all but that's probably because they don't suit my body type. You, however, are a slim fellow and I don't think the looser cut is doing you any justice. If you're keen to stick with Tender (and I think that's great as they look like fantastic garments), then you've made the right decision to exchange them for a pair of dlimmer 129s. If you were comfortable in the 130s, you wouldn't feel the need to seek assurance from other forum members, you'd happily wear them regardless.

[grooveholmes]

Exactly. I think feedback is one thing, assurances another. I do give a bit more weight to william's opinion, as he has a particular, comfort/function aesthetic in mind with his garments. There are going to be people who like/dislike how they look on you, but ultimately you've got to be the one comfortable. As I recall, mtchfrnk has a similar tall, slender frame. He purchased both and I think looked great in both. I don't know if there is any difference in the 130s with regard to measurements from one season to the next, but I think there is still some roominess in the thighs in the 130s. Every body type is different, but I'm just putting it out there for your (further) consideration.

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/98577-tender-co-denim/page__view__findpost__p__2271287

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/98577-tender-co-denim/page__view__findpost__p__2313371

[Thor]

my 130 s are the best fitting jeans i have ever owned, for me.

I FEEL LIKE JAMEs dean IN THEM, I PROBABLY LOOK LIKE jimmy krankie, but i feel like james dean.

[shinobi2000]

William,

wanted to update you and everyone else here on my pair. So in case anyone was following above, unionmade sent me the wrong pair originally. I wanted the purple logwood dyed and they sent me the black. I posted them above thinking they were the purple because maybe in the orange-y light of my lamps they had a reddish hue (or maybe it was my imagination! ha). Anyway, William corrected me basing his judgment not just on the color but from that little sliver of a picture that appears on the tag in my photo -- apparently the black dyed has a photo of a bowl of dye whereas the purple dyed has a photo of wood chips. I can't believe you were able to see that from my twisted pose William! Long story short, I contacted unionmade and they made an awesome effort to correct the problem, sending me a link to print out a prepaid UPS label. Kudos to both companies for handling their products so well.

William, my question to you is: how does this dye stain? Do I have to worry about it getting all over white furniture? Or will it stick pretty well because it's organic/vegetable dye? Thanks!

[flatpattern]

hello, just picked up the 133 ticking trews and was wondering about shrinkage. I can't find info regarding how careful I should be washing them. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. Was wondering about it since they are 100% cotton.

Was going to hold out on these but since they are disappearing in stores I had to strike if I wanted them. your post of your pair sold me, good stuff.

[thirdhand]

wgmds, thanks so much for posting up, and they look great on you! i kind of liked the 132s on you as well, but these are definitely a better fit for you. very glad it worked out.

personally I can't get my thighs into 129s at all, and the 130 is a fairly slim fit for me. I alternate pairs of 130 with 132s. Right now I'm on 132, as comfy as can be:

I presume this is the Tender watch you mentioned... Any details at this time?

[wgmds]

hmm. maybe i'll use some of the extra money that i have for once to upgrade to these from the raw 129--if that comes in the 129.

[rodeo bill]

my question to you is: how does this dye stain? Do I have to worry about it getting all over white furniture? Or will it stick pretty well because it's organic/vegetable dye? Thanks!

Great that Unionmade have sorted you out! They're lovely people, and I'm glad it hasn't been too much hassle. As far as staining goes, as with any jeans that haven't been heavily washed I'd avoid too much rubbing against white upholstery for a while, but actually the dyed jeans should be less bad than unborn/raw. This is the reason unborn jeans are delivered in a bag, whereas the dyed jeans aren't- they don't rub off as much.

[rodeo bill]

hello, just picked up the 133 ticking trews and was wondering about shrinkage. I can't find info regarding how careful I should be washing them. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. Was wondering about it since they are 100% cotton. Was going to hold out on these but since they are disappearing in stores I had to strike if I wanted them. your post of your pair sold me, good stuff.

thank you! great stuff. The trews have already had a hot wash and dry, so they shouldn't shrink with normal washing. It'd be great if you could post up some pics, if you have time.

[rodeo bill]

I presume this is the Tender watch you mentioned... Any details at this time?

Yep, and that was really just a teaser for a few things in the photo... I'm waiting for watches to be delivered in the next few weeks, then I'll post up some more details for sure. As I think I mentioned, we're getting the trestle shop together at the moment, and this will be one of the first products up there. Apologies that this is taking a bit longer than hoped- there's a lot to do. watch this space (ha ha ha)

[bbcapone]

Bill, i was wondering if you could answer a few questions for me.

How would you describe the differences between the blue woad and blue logwood dyed pants? As far as color, depth, fading characteristics ect.

Also the 130 is you're slimmer cut correct? Im not a big fan of super tight denim, would you say its quite a bit slimmer?

And finally do you have any pictures of the purple jeans faded?

Sorry for tthe long post and thanks ahead of time!

[wgmds]

i think that the 130 is the 132 with tapered legs, while the 129 is slimmed down thighs as well. i've noticed that union made has the most accurate measurements (that i saw).

[rodeo bill]

thanks for your answer wgmds! much appreciated. bbcapone, to add to that- 132 is a wide straight leg, cut quite open (if you lay the jeans down flat, they naturally sit with the legs apart). The 130 is based on 132 but with a tapered leg and slightly (not much) slimmer thighs. It's not a slim jean, but it's definitely narrower than 132. The seat and rise are the same.

The 129 (coming out in the next couple of months) has the same narrower hem as 130 but with a straight slim leg, slimmer seat, and lower (not crazy low) waist. They definitely fit a lot slimmer than either of the other two cuts.

re dyes- they're just different! there's no blue logwood, I think you mean black, or purple, logwood? the blue option is woad. I'd say the deepest/richest colour is the woad, but the tone given to the original denim with logwood is really unusual and brings out lovely qualities in the cast of the indigo, especially as they fade. Having said that, I'm afraid I don't have a worn pair of the purple dyed jeans. I'm currently alternating between a pair of woad dyed 132s and next season's wattle-dyed (of which more to follow!)

i hope this helps- if you need anything else feel free to ask here, or email me

[bbcapone]

Thanks alot bill!

Ok thinking Im looking for a 130, but the real question is do I think I can pull off the logwood when I dress so conservatively. Dark blue denim a thermal and engineers almost every day for me :-)

And the wattle dye sounds interesting. Going for a deep red or a cream yellow color????

[shinobi2000]

but the real question is do I think I can pull off the logwood when I dress so conservatively.

Depends on which color you want. The blacks were interesting enough but the purples are quite striking. Definitely not what I'd call conservative

[rodeo bill]

very excitingly, i was invited over to Monocle HQ last week to do a piece on their radio show (highly recommended). If anyone's interested, it's available as a podcast free on itunes, just search monocle the entrepreneurs edition 31, the bit about tender starts 10mins in.

[rodeo bill]

I was just sent this great photo from Christophe, who had it taken in Seville, Spain, wearing his flowerpot canvas trews.

[UkeNo]

Congrats Bill!

Monocle is An excellent journal- my favourite.

I'll have a listen soon.

[rodeo bill]

^thankyou, really kind. it's a great magazine.

The weather here in england's been gorgeous the last few days, so i've started wearing shorts for the first time this year. Tender type 140 cross-cut English woven left hand twill:

They're made on the same pattern as the trews, but are cut horizontally, across the grain, instead of on the bias:

As with the trews there's no side seam, although the hip dart comes pretty close to the hem:

Natural cow horn Plautus button:

English-cast brass loops back strap:

cotton herringbone tape support behind the side pockets:

which is just starting to stretch out nicely on my pair:

Also available in dyed with woad or purple logwood, in mattress ticking, and (specially for Fil Melange, Japan only) in denim. Here's hoping the sun lasts a bit longer....

Edited May 30, 2012 by rodeo bill

[attackwithstones]

Bill those are sweet as shit for shorts! I actually love the white. Whats the inseam on them?

How much are they???

You should make a pair in green herringbone twill or a green sateen farbic. I'd be all over those.

[grooveholmes]

The mattress ticking is available at Unionmade, but only size 32 avail (or size 3 tagged). $295. Steep price, but everything I own that's Tender (132s, 130s, s/s henley, belt, soap) has never disappointed. If I weren't strapped, I'd be wearing these shorts.

[rodeo bill]

^thanks for the nice words! The inseam on mine is 19.5cm, or nearly 8". When I was working out the price they'd have to be I was a bit worried they were getting quite expensive, but basically the production is the same as jeans, the only difference is the length, which doesn't make all that much difference to the costing... I understand that they're quite a lot, but there's a lot of work gone into them!

[Blacktruffles]

Went on a tender co shopping spree! Just got myself a 915 guards jacket in purple logwood and mattress ticking. A 130 in purple logwood. A 133 mattress ticking trews and a 140 shorts! Quality and attention to detail is top notch. Plus the mattress ticking such a one of a kind fabric. Thanks for sharing the provenance with us, William.

[grooveholmes]

pictures, please.

[attackwithstones]

Do the type 420 shirts shrink? Are they raw or prewashed? The measurements of the small look huge! But I love the shirt design so much.

[rodeo bill]

^blacktruffles, wow! thank you as grooveholmes says, it'd be lovely if you could post some photos.

attackwithstones, the shirts have all either been washed or dyed, so they won't shrink significantly more. They are pretty big, but there's a pleat in the back which makes the measurements seem bigger than how it wears. The fit's based on a vintagey blouse/nightshirt idea, with a wider/longer body and slimmer/shorter sleeves.

[rodeo bill]

My good friends Emil & Sandy's The Hill-Side & Co. project just went live . We did the 129 TH-S jeans a while ago, and that developed into a full collection with various brands. Here are some of their pics of the henleys we made, with gorgeous Hill-Side hand-woven guatemalan fabric at the placket, and a Hill-Side label in the side seam.

Ecru:

and Black logwood dyed:

The project as a whole involves some really brilliant brands, and is well worth a look.

Edited June 1, 2012 by rodeo bill

[snafu]

those tee-s are very nice, the ecru detailing is a beautiful but i know i would end up wearing the logwood more.

[Blacktruffles]

Here's a fit pic of the mattress ticking guard jacket and 130 purple logwood jeans. Hope this works.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79808030@N03/7314608466/

Edited June 1, 2012 by Blacktruffles