Roy. (expurgated edition)

[roy6]

Did you get any more photos of some more of his work (non-jeans, etc.)?

This is theROY-made orange hoodie:

And the denim jacket:

Look at the selvedge lines inside- I meant to take a closer look at how this was constructed, but I forgot.

rnrswitch- I couldn't stay long enough to see the jeans finished, so I'll pick them up next week.

youngpunch- very well said.

[entertainment!]

Great photos, emissary from superfuture!

I placed my order last week, trying to break out of my lvc rut. It's cool to know my order ticket was on the board when you took the photo. Like every one has already said, dealing with ROY has been a great pleasure.

[Paul T]

Roy, fab photos, thanks a million for posting.

[rnrswitch]

Great photos and write-up roy! I 'm impressed with ROY's whole operation, but in particular that he has all the different sewing machines needed for the specific parts in a pair of jeans. His workshop looks awesome!

All the drawings and notes around his work-space give me the feeling he's a cool dude with a sense of humor, and that means something when you're buying a pair of jeans from such a small operation. It's not all about the finished product but the people (or one person in this case) behind it all.

Yeah, he seems like "cool quarky" instead of "trying quarky."

[roy6]

Great photos, emissary from superfuture!

I placed my order last week, trying to break out of my lvc rut. It's cool to know my order ticket was on the board when you took the photo. Like every one has already said, dealing with ROY has been a great pleasure.

Ha! I figured that there was at least one order for a sufuer on the table, so when ROY wasn't looking I touched all of them. Nice to meet you.

[mlyngard]

Fantastic photo essay and great stuff everyone! I'm totally sold now.

My knowledge of Zim is poor, but I think they cultivate a short staple cotton, Albar . I'm speculating, but perhaps this could be valued for denim making in the same way certain Japanese 'repro' brands have developed jeans made from short staple cotton.

http://www.seedco.co.zw/

http://www.thecottoncompany.com/html/Products-%20Services/seed_co.shtm

There's probably also longer staple cotton grown...

http://www.deltaandpine.com

I believe Zimbabwe is a long staple variety like Egyptian, and thrives in that arid region for the same reason. Zim has a high lustre and a very white boll. Takes dyes well, does not need to be twisted as much when made into yarn, and has a high tensile stregth. Not sure if most Zim cotton is single harvest or double (which affects growth-time and fiber length). The economics of the region and growing techniques are questionable though.

I have to say that most of the Zimbabwe cotton denim I own is outstanding.

I came across this SuFu thread:

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=7050

[roy6]

Here are some shots of ROY working on my jeans. I couldn't stay long enough to see the whole process, but I was there for the installation of the hidden rivets and some pocket work.

ROY says the process for one single pair of jeans, start to finish, is about 2 1/2 hours. That's probably when he doesn't have someone dogging him with a camera, standing in his light, and poking him in the leg with a tripod.

The pile of cut denim that would become my jeans:

Cutting a stack of pocket linings:

I asked ROY at this point if there was any part of the process that wasn't fun. He laughed and said "only if it isn't working right."

Preliminary stitching on the back pockets:

The industrial iron at work:

More stitching:

Attaching the pockets in preparation for driving the rivets:

[roy6]

Driving the rivets:

Doming the inside of the rivets:

Sewing the outer stitch using a mechanical guide:

The inner stitch is done freehand, so that they end up with this fantastic organic look:

Working on the fly placket:

The finished placket:

That's all of the process I was there for this time, hopefully ROY will have me back to see the other parts when I order my next pair.

I'll take pictures of the finished jeans for posting when I pick them up next week.

Can't wait!

[zissou]

awesome x 100. I love seeing stuff like this being made. So that's how they do hidden rivets!

[JSFU]

awesome x 100. I love seeing stuff like this being made. So that's how they do hidden rivets!

that was shown in the video

[aho]

I love how this has turned into a "So I'm having a pair of jeans made..." thread....Fantastic updates and pictures Roy6, I also want to order another pair from him when more denim options become available...now to break in my first pair!

[rnrswitch]

I am still jealous. I love his back pockets. Nothing flashy, but different and still classic looking.

[rnrswitch]

Here are some shots of ROY working on my jeans. I couldn't stay long enough to see the whole process, but I was there for the installation of the hidden rivets and some pocket work.

And also: Where the hell you gotta be on a Saturday that's so important, you lazy bum.

[scout233]

Hey! My order must have been on the board too! How cool that many members here are supporting Roy denim. I actually am buying the jeans as a gift to my brother, but will post some comparison pics when they arrive.

[Smoleu]

I made my order yesterday, like others have mentioned, roy is very easy to deal with and super responsive to email.

I'll post more when I get the jeans. Thanks for all of the info.

[thesmokestack]

roy6, i too would be poking roy in the leg with a 'tripod' if i was watching him work with all that denim... BOING!

good research everyone. i was drawn to roy by the jeans, but the duck pants, the jacket, and pretty much everything else i have seen in this thread are hijacking my interest!

[roy6]

roy6, i too would be poking roy in the leg with a 'tripod' if i was watching him work with all that denim... BOING!

Ha! It's true- I did have a denim hard-on the whole time. I was very careful not to poke anyone with that.

[braille_teeth]

The man himself ain't too bad lookin' hisself

A handsome, metal-working antique sewing machine prodigy with good taste and a good attitude, bay area... Sounds like marriage material to me.

[roy6]

^ all true enough. However, ROY isn't gay. He is single. So maybe now is a good time for any eligible Sufu ladies in the Bay area to head over to Oakland for a denim consult.

Picked up my jeans today!

I didn't tel ROY my sufu name, but he must have been poking around here, because embroidered on one of my pocket bags:

and tucked in a pack pocket:

Dude, are you trying to make some commentary on my expressions in my fit pics?

[rnrswitch]

Dude is too fucking cool. Soaked them shits yet?

[roy6]

Maybe tomorrow night...

[YoungPunch]

Your jeans look awesome roy! It's cool he customized your pocket bag with that embroidery...the little details you just can't get buying from a bigger name brand.

I'm looking forward to your future updates on soaking and wear. Working in the gardens all summer long should help the fading process!

[jasonfoote303]

Those look amazing!

I ordered myself a pair too. It was great going to his shop and checking out the operation. We ended up chatting for almost 2 hours!!!

I don't know if a cooler jean "company" exists.

Mine should be done in a week or two. I'll post up some pics when i get em!

[entertainment!]

Here are some fit pics of my new ROYs. I got them Friday, soaked Saturday night and wore them yesterday. The craftmanship on these is great.

My point of reference is LVC. They are definitely more fitted in the seat than the typical anti-fit 501. Compared to the Cone denim on LVC (I know there are lots of different types), this Cone denim feels thicker and slubbier, more like Japanese denim.

Based on consultation with Roy, I bought a 36x36.25. My actual measured waist is 35 and I like the waist of my jeans to end up at 35-35.5 measured BiG style, which is close to how Roy measures. I probably could have gotten away with a 35, but I wonder if that size might be a little too tight in the seat.

Here are the vital statistics, pre and post soak (one hour at 40C/100F, hung to dry):

waist (BiG) 36.25/35

inseam 36/34.5

front rise 12/11.5

back rise 16.75/16

thigh 13.25/12.75

hem 9/8.75

roy6, can't wait to see yours for comparison.

[entertainment!]

One thing I forget to mention, these don't have any discernible leg twist.

Aho and Braille Teeth (and anyone else I have forgotten), any further thoughts now that you have lived with your pairs for a few weeks?

[rnrswitch]

I think those fit you very well. I'd like to hear from Roy666 as well. He seems to have gone MIA. Maybe he eloped with his jeans and is basking in the sun with them on a deserted island.

[scout233]

Hey entertainment!, those look really good. I think you got the right size. Do you think you got most of the shrink out of them? Also, what is your height and weight? I ordered some 36x37's for my brother and he is approx 6'4"..220 lbs. Just curious if i was in the ball park. Thanks!

[beatle]

that is a nice fit *

[aho]

No updates on my side so far...been trying to stick to one pair for the next few months and then I'll give my Roy's the time and wear they deserve!

[rnrswitch]

No updates on my side so far...been trying to stick to one pair for the next few months and then I'll give my Roy's the time and wear they deserve!

How's your washing of the denim scrap going?