arcteryx veilance

[johngalt]

2 hours ago, martou said:

Season?

 

Probably next FW. It's already all designed. Most the specs are finalized

[CB200]

1 hour ago, chris_n said:

The size discrepancy between colors is really odd and alarming tbh

Many fabrics need to relax after they are unrolled before you cut panel pieces. If it is not given sufficient time to relax before cutting there can be continued shrinkage of the fabric after a panel is cut. This results in the pane piece's dimensions being smaller than the pattern and a smaller final product would be the result. Variations in fit between products sewn from different "cuts" using the same patterns and markers can happen in this way, along with natural variations from being a hand made product with fabrics that may have some degree of stretch to them. 

[chris_n]

41 minutes ago, CB200 said:

Many fabrics need to relax after they are unrolled before you cut panel pieces. If it is not given sufficient time to relax before cutting there can be continued shrinkage of the fabric after a panel is cut. This results in the pane piece's dimensions being smaller than the pattern and a smaller final product would be the result. Variations in fit between products sewn from different "cuts" using the same patterns and markers can happen in this way, along with natural variations from being a hand made product with fabrics that may have some degree of stretch to them. 

yes this is why it's alarming. it's a simple matter that i'm surprised is happening now with a brand-line typically known for quality.

[Chiels]

4 hours ago, chris_n said:

yes this is why it's alarming. it's a simple matter that i'm surprised is happening now with a brand-line typically known for quality.

And it shall be the same batch but dyed in different color. I experienced similar sizing issue in Voroni SS version, but it is because the batch is different. The 08/16 is also like one inch smaller than 01/17. It is really a risk for those Veilance user like me who buy most of the items oversea. Simply because we only have agent rather than direct Arc'teryx store in my country. The agent buyers picked only few items rather than the whole series. 

I still don't understand why it is different sizing in different color, since both Black and Peat need to be dyed... And if fabric relaxing is an issue, then it means the factory didn't wait enough time for the fabrics to relax...it's alarming.

[droffen]

1 hour ago, Chiels said:

And it shall be the same batch but dyed in different color. I experienced similar sizing issue in Voroni SS version, but it is because the batch is different. The 08/16 is also like one inch smaller than 01/17. It is really a risk for those Veilance user like me who buy most of the items oversea. Simply because we only have agent rather than direct Arc'teryx store in my country. The agent buyers picked only few items rather than the whole series. 

I still don't understand why it is different sizing in different color, since both Black and Peat need to be dyed... And if fabric relaxing is an issue, then it means the factory didn't wait enough time for the fabrics to relax...it's alarming.

It seems that you have 2 different sizes. 

One in 32-32 and the other in 30-32

Edited October 20, 2017 by droffen

[SuE]

While wearing your Veilance Blazers/Long Coats (LT, Doeln, Haedn etc) do you fasten all the sliding snaps or only the top one?

 

[branespload]

i usually keep them open if it’s casual or warm and then button all of them if it’s cold

im not swaggy or confident enough in lapeled coats to improvise lol

[Dolphinski]

One should never button the bottom button of a blazer! Anything else is absolutely ungentlemanly! 

 

Edited October 20, 2017 by Dolphinski

[Chiels]

5 hours ago, droffen said:

It seems that you have 2 different sizes. 

One in 32-32 and the other in 30-32

01/17 I bought 32-32 and 30-32, the 32-32 is what I ordered for a colleague. 08/16 I have 30-32. 
The 08/16 30-32 is actually smaller than 01/17 30-32. And thanks to Capsuletoronto, they measured the waist for me before I placed my next order. Then I got another batch 30-32 but same sizing as 01/17 version.

[branespload]

1 hour ago, Dolphinski said:

One should never button the bottom button of a blazer! Anything else is absolutely ungentlemanly! 

oh good to know i havent actually worn my indisce blazer yet, been procrastinating on getting the sleeves shortened (RIP bonded cuffs)

how does this apply to 2 buttons or long overcoats like doeln and indisce 3/4? (genuine noob question)

[johngalt]

Rule applies to all lapel collared jackets and coats. NEVER button the bottom button on a suit jacket. It's both a general rule and makes the silhouette stiff and will cause unwanted creases when moving. I would reason it is especially true for longer coats as it will impede movement more and again just blasphemy 

[conqueror]

with the exception of a shirt, i don't button the bottom on anything (e.g. cardigan). no bueno.

[CB200]

Regarding size changes. Totally understandable given the price of the garment that there would be more uniformity in measurements expected. While it can be disappointing, the manufacturing of products out of fabric will always have some variations between individual products and different product runs. There's lots of places for variation to enter into the production process . Some off the top of my head... the tension of the bolt of fabric, resting time variations between spreading of fabrics, cutting variance when cutting panels, seam allowance difference between operators, distortions through heat pressing during production, distortions of fabric while being sewn, final pressing differences...

With so many places for distortions, It's expected that there will be - some - variations in final production pieces. Each tech pack (blue print) for a product will have the tolerance listed as to what is acceptable for these differences. We don't know what the tolerance that would allow something to fall within spec for the pants.  I'd expect that it would be high, but sometimes "half grade" is considered acceptable. If the next size up is two inches bigger... half the grade would be an inch. One would think they would have a tighter tolerance, but who knows. 

Certainly steps should be done to eliminate as much variation as possible but there will always be some. Shifting production facilities over seas would certainly add to the challenge of maintaining product dimensions between items and production runs. Maybe it's a one off issue time will tell if QC becomes an issue. Getting measurements off an actual garment is the only way to be, somewhat, sure of what you're getting. On a pair of pricy pants- the seller should be happy to provide. 

 

[Inkinsurgent]

the combination of QC issues and counterfeiting will be truly alarming if it's not quickly and sufficiently addressed.

the thing with veilance is precision is at the core of it's brand identity. that $1000+ price tag is not just the fabric and the cut. it's the assurance that the item is immaculate in every sense, perfect way beyond the point of diminishing returns. if you lose that, you lose a big part of what makes veilance different.

[SuE]

 

 

6 hours ago, Dolphinski said:

One should never button the bottom button of a blazer! Anything else is absolutely ungentlemanly! 

 

 

3 hours ago, johngalt said:

Rule applies to all lapel collared jackets and coats. NEVER button the bottom button on a suit jacket. It's both a general rule and makes the silhouette stiff and will cause unwanted creases when moving. I would reason it is especially true for longer coats as it will impede movement more and again just blasphemy 

I know the tradition but Veilance seems to be designed differently... And there are no visible buttons so you could get away with it, no? In that model picture from Haven you can see the creases from only using one snap... 

 

Branespload, would you mind taking some pictures of the various configurations?

[chris_n]

Field Pant update;

got size 30. Fits me better and slightly more relaxed. No loose threads on this pair but another really odd QC issue: the waistband that meets at the zip fly and cobrax snap is not lined up properly! The left side (outer facing waist band) is higher than the right side (inner, with male part of snap)  

it is a seemingly trivial matter and doesn’t affect the wear or fit, but aesthetically it ruins the clean and minimal nature of Veilance, especially when worn with a tucked in shirt. Definitely not used to seeing this sort of inconsistency with Veilance. I’m very surprised.

the vendor only has one of each size and do I really to deal with the long turnaround with Veilance/arc warranty dept?

[Inkinsurgent]

22 minutes ago, SuE said:

 

 

 

I know the tradition but Veilance seems to be designed differently... And there are no visible buttons so you could get away with it, no? In that model picture from Haven you can see the creases from only using one snap... 

i wear my blazer lt with one or two snaps done depending on how i feel. i would never wear a traditional suit jacket or sports coat with the lower button done, but i feel like once you're wearing a seam taped stretch nylon blazer with cobrax snap buttons, the rules are out of the window anyway.

[branespload]

1 hour ago, chris_n said:

Field Pant update;

got size 30. Fits me better and slightly more relaxed. No loose threads on this pair but another really odd QC issue: the waistband that meets at the zip fly and cobrax snap is not lined up properly! The left side (outer facing waist band) is higher than the right side (inner, with male part of snap)  

it is a seemingly trivial matter and doesn’t affect the wear or fit, but aesthetically it ruins the clean and minimal nature of Veilance, especially when worn with a tucked in shirt. Definitely not used to seeing this sort of inconsistency with Veilance. I’m very surprised.

the vendor only has one of each size and do I really to deal with the long turnaround with Veilance/arc warranty dept?

would love to see fit pics of going true vs sizing up one, since my true size (28) isnt even an option

i've heard some voronoi AR owners having a hard time with busted seams.. so i wouldn't be too confident with trying to warranty if it doesn't affect functionality. still, it's an unintended visual defect. maybe you can call them and ask before sending it in?

@SuE yea i'll try to get some photos in here later today

[branespload]

LOL i tried, but here are some pics (hi-res album here if the sufu uploads look awful https://imgur.com/a/JjKmF)

order will be:

one button, both/all buttons, no buttons

doeln+nemis, conduct + indisce 3/4, graph cardi + indisce blazer

doeln/nemis top button only

doeln/nemis both buttons (looks the same to me idk)

doelnnemis open

indisce3/4+conduct, middle button only -- imo i dont like this, but it might be that im short

indisce3/4+conduct, top button closed. coat looks longer with the top button closed imo. honestly i forgot if this is the bottom button closed or not, but i think it's left undone. it all kinda looks the same for middle and bottom butons

indisce 3/4 + conduct open

indisce blz/graph crd top button only. cool

indisce blz/graph crd both buttons closed. looks the same as 1 button only honestly

indisce blz/graph crd open. babby shoes, never wore

hopefully this helps @SuE re: buttons and @johngalt re: some layering options. i actually tried the haedn overshirt and the mionn IS under the indisce blazer but they felt and looked horrible (idk how those japanese mountaineering stores on instagram do it). idk what it is about the cut of the blazer but even though it seems like it's roomy and boxy, it doesn't layer much underneath it well

Edited October 20, 2017 by branespload
got order wrong

[Dolphinski]

Fiyahhh!

[johngalt]

Thanks a lot @branespload, really appreciate it. 

Re bottom button, I should have specified. The weird creases I mentioned, form when you're walking or have your hands in your pocket 

 

edit: I really like your hanging system for all your bags. Are they just ikea hooks? 

Edited October 20, 2017 by johngalt

[branespload]

thanks, theyre just cheap adhesive hooks lol. they hold about 15lb but i keep my bags empty when i put them up. warning though they do put some pressure on the top pull handles for most stuff. link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IJRB1AI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[johngalt]

Do they leave a mark on surface when you take them off? I'm leasing and move a lot. I know what you mean, I use to use S-hooks to hang my packs and left quite a indent in my Arro 22 handle. 

Also, what do you use your Seque tote for aside from wearing it on your head. Are there any benefits to it over a normal tote? 

[branespload]

1 hour ago, johngalt said:

Do they leave a mark on surface when you take them off? I'm leasing and move a lot. I know what you mean, I use to use S-hooks to hang my packs and left quite a indent in my Arro 22 handle. 

Also, what do you use your Seque tote for aside from wearing it on your head. Are there any benefits to it over a normal tote? 

havent taken them off yet so cant say lol

as for the seque tote, it does have some benefits over a normal tote. main one being the two sets of straps, i like being able to switch between handheld and over the shoulder. i attach a grimloc d-ring to one of the strap bases as an attachment point for whatever if i need (keys, grocery bag or something). its a good piece of luggage too, i fit 2 weeks worth of clothes (albeit packable veilance stuff), a sidebag and shoes on a recent trip. it swallows stuff at 20L. if you can, i'd suggest the revised version. my main gripe with the v1 (whatever the non green one is) is that there's no 'anchor' pull to use the zipper. i have to pinch the fabric of the bag while i pull the zipper away. On the new one, it has finger notches to hold onto, and dual zip on the main compartment so you can access from either side and only as much as you need.

that said, while the seque is nice, i think the value add is that it's good for luggage/travel. otherwise, something much cheaper like the blanca 19 is a solid option for day to day use

[Inkinsurgent]

christ branespload, i thought i had a ridiculous veilance wardrobe. we need a support group or something.

[Chiels]

38 minutes ago, branespload said:

havent taken them off yet so cant say lol

as for the seque tote, it does have some benefits over a normal tote. main one being the two sets of straps, i like being able to switch between handheld and over the shoulder. i attach a grimloc d-ring to one of the strap bases as an attachment point for whatever if i need (keys, grocery bag or something). its a good piece of luggage too, i fit 2 weeks worth of clothes (albeit packable veilance stuff), a sidebag and shoes on a recent trip. it swallows stuff at 20L. if you can, i'd suggest the revised version. my main gripe with the v1 (whatever the non green one is) is that there's no 'anchor' pull to use the zipper. i have to pinch the fabric of the bag while i pull the zipper away. On the new one, it has finger notches to hold onto, and dual zip on the main compartment so you can access from either side and only as much as you need.

that said, while the seque is nice, i think the value add is that it's good for luggage/travel. otherwise, something much cheaper like the blanca 19 is a solid option for day to day use

I would like to add too additional advantages of the Nomin Pack and Seque Tote. Don't know it's by coincident or intended to be designed in this way. But both their length sits perfectly on a carry-on luggage. The handle fits perfectly with the suitcase's one. 

 

[matthewcng]

Digital Veilance 2017 F/W lookbook

https://issuu.com/nelson6394/docs/f17_veilance_s_final_digital

[conqueror]

not veilance, but does anyone stock the arro 22 that will ship to australia other than mr. porter? i know australia is hardly suited to shells etc, but i've never understood how shitty their distribution is here - even the 'smaller' (in comparison to the north face etc) outdoors brands such as mont-bell all have a way better presence.

Edited October 22, 2017 by conqueror

[Jun.H]

45 minutes ago, conqueror said:

not veilance, but does anyone stock the arro 22 that will ship to australia other than mr. porter? i know australia is hardly suited to shells etc, but i've never understood how shitty their distribution is here - even the 'smaller' (in comparison to the north face etc) outdoors brands such as mont-bell all have a way better presence.

Amer Sports (http://www.amersports.com.au/) handles distribution for Arc in Australia, you might want to contact them to see if they have it.

[johngalt]

I thought Amer was just the conglomerate that owns and manages Arc. Isn't distributions managed by the Arc wholesale team?