Ande Whall Denim

[Mastamind89]

I'm a size 33, should I get a 32 in the Grifters or stay true to my size?

[dawei69]

I'm a size 33, should I get a 32 in the Grifters or stay true to my size?

size 33 for which pair of jeans? i'd say it's safe to go TTS.... the new denim doesnt stretch much

[l3oom]

Is new aw denim easy fading?

[kit99bar]

odd, perhaps you are meauring wrong with the tape? I'm actually a 33 also in the grifters with a tape measured 33. I have muscular thighs so that's another factor that comes in. anyhow good luck with getting the right fit.

they were 16.5 across. i was told to do the pinching to see how far down i'd have to go.

[Rob060]

odd, perhaps you are meauring wrong with the tape? I'm actually a 33 also in the grifters with a tape measured 33. I have muscular thighs so that's another factor that comes in. anyhow good luck with getting the right fit.

yea, i don't know. really wanted to get the sizing right so he wouldn't have to make another pair. think it's all sorted out so i'm stoked and another week wait or so isn't bad. i have soccer legs and didn't want something super slim so that's why i went cougar. the 30s only have a 7.5" leg opening so they'll still be plenty slim and fitted, i think.

[b7ff]

Ande Whall Raker, the American denim version..

hows the fit guys??

I think the thigh area is too tight for me, should I go for the grifter instead??

[joddicted]

i really love the blue lasso

[TLCA]

B7ff the fit ain't bad, there a bit tight but they'll stretch out a bit and I agree the blue lasso is pretty dope but maybe next time ande could use a bit darker of a blue thread

[thesmokestack]

Rob060 (and a message to all), don't even bother with measuring your waist, just measure a pair of jeans you like the fit of. It's easier to compare measurements of jeans to measurements of other jeans... the 3D measurement of your waist/thigh/whatever will just complicate things.

And as reported, the 33 is REALLY a 33 (16.5 x 2)!

ande's guide on the site is the best way:

METHOD #1: Flat measure some of your current jeans that fit snug in the waist, a freshly washed pair is good. Disregard the listed tag size. Be sure to square up the top of the waistband and firmly pull out the sides to its maximum width. Measure across the top of the waistband and double this measurement.

[joddicted]

like i said before I'm participating in Indonesian Denim Group Contest

this is the update for the first month

a cross on my back pocket

the hidden rivets ain't so hidden anymore

slight fade on whiskers, combs and coin pocket

thanks

[poly800rock]

is that the new denim? either way, amazing.

and also, seems like the cone denim is next to impossible to get great pictures of, but they're tuff as nailz

[joddicted]

@poly

it's not the new one, it's the streaky cone mills one

[andewhall]

Hey guys, hope everyone is well. I have been slack on Sufu in the last few months. I really like that thread showing all the home sewn jeans, it's awesome. A good British gent with connections to NZ made a good order and asked me to send him some construction shots. I am still going to do a proper shoot from start to finish, like that old one years ago...but updated. So these are just a few quick snap shots of the back construction...lighting and colours are not that flash etc, but you get the idea. I am moving the workshop into a larger space in a couple of weeks with really good natural lighting, so will be much better for photos and spreading out a bit.

Back pockets prepared, bar tacked and riveted.

Flip the pocket over and start stitching.

Coming up the other side. Fold the excess flap into the pocket.

Up and over the top, don't hit the rivet on the up and back down.

Tie off the stitch at the beginning and end. One pocket done.

The rivet's still there.

[andewhall]

Hand felled seam, also known as a lap seam. I often think how genius this seam is, whoever came up with it is a legend in my book. Even though it's a very tight rigid seam, it still has flex on the inside...argghh hard to explain that that bit. It's best done with a very short stitch length, 2mm, as the bobbin thread appears on the outside of the jeans. No matter how well your thread tensions in your bobbin and machine are tuned, the bobbin thread always looks a bit rougher than the top stitch side....however the short stitch length fixes this.

Wrong sides together, lap yoke onto main.

First row of stitching done.

Right side up, top stitch second row.

Yokes on.

Then seam both backs together, this needs a bit more muscle as you have the thick yoke intersecting.

[Rob060]

awesome shots man. i never got to see the original thread you made.

hopefully my jeans will arrive today.

[CML]

I would love to see ther original topic aswell.

Nice pics and technique. Do you onlny use an industrial single needle and a lockmachine?

[Freshdave]

I've been wearing mine for about three weeks now. I did one warm soak, that I forgot to measure after. They started as a 33" waist at the waistband, they're now a 35" after wearing every day. I've no problem with this at all, I was hoping they'd stretch a bit.

Pics maybe today...

Dave

[poly800rock]

this is why we love ande whall so much.

[dralfonzo]

great updates ande can't wait to see your start to finish pics.

[Rob060]

30 cougar

[Fiddy]

^^^ Very nice Rob.

[Deckard]

This is an absolutely epic thread, can't wait to order and get my jeans, BUT I'm a bit hesitant because I'm still not quite sure which style to get, even after doing all sorts of measurements and comparisons. I'm trying to get something to replace my size 29 New Cures, so I was thinking of going with 31 or 32 Grifters (probably in 34 length), even though they're a bit looser, which I really don't mind. Can anyone compare the fits of the Grifters to the New Cures?

[poly800rock]

wearing my grifters right NOW. been a good 7 months straight now.

[WhiskeySD]

wearing my grifters right NOW. been a good 7 months straight now.

pics, poly!

[l3oom]

Love AW!!!

[Rob060]

the waist is stretching out comfortably and the part below the knee is starting to settle and look better. lovin these more each day.

[Rob060]

[cheapmuthafukr]

man... the new jeans look really good... makes me miss my old pairs.

[dubcbadass]

catching up on some sufu action here

[orgasm status photos]

so ill that i had to take my jeans off and check out the construction. also, i notice that the pocket is sewn on in one fell swoop with the stitching on both pockets starting from the jeans right. these little personal details are what make AWs so special.

this is why we love ande whall so much.

qft

^^^ Very nice Rob.

co-sign. good goin'.

wearing my grifters right NOW. been a good 7 months straight now.

no pics, no care!

[photobooth]

I know I was frustrated by the lack of photos of the new Japanese denim so hopefully some of these photos will help convince people of the great jeans Ande makes.

These are Slackers I got on March 5. Warm soak made them pretty hairy and they have a very subtle slub to them which should lead to some awesome falling. The raw denim has a really nice reddish purple caste in the sunlight which is now fading into some beautiful blues.