home-made jeans

[Joseph Hill]

Anybody know anything about chainstitching (first hand, not via wiki)? I've been playing around with the chainstitch attachment on my old Kenmore. It makes a very neat little v-shape chain stitch that, like they say, unravels if you look at it wrong. Granted if you backstich and lock the end it's all right, but the chainstitch on commercial garments looks to have more going on threadwise on the chain. With my setup, it only uses the top thread, the bobbin is replaced with the propeller shaped looper. Do the commercial machines use a second thread from the bobbin side? I don't have any chainstitched items that I really want to experiment with trying to unravel them.

[denimotaku]

The chain-stitch that everyone in this forum drools over is what's called a double lockstitch which basically comprises of two threads direct from the cone without the use of a bobbin for the lower thread. A chain-stitch can also refer to the stitch used for embroidery which uses only one thread. An example of this is what you see ROY do on the pocket bags on some of the custom jeans he makes.

If you are only using the top thread, you are sewing an embroidery chain-stitch. Also, all the double lockstitch machines i use do not have a reverse function like a regular lockstitch machine does, hence why most need brands either have to manually tie off a knot to prevent it from unraveling, or sew a bartack, like what Nudie does, to stop it from unraveling as well.

An embroidery chainstitch is used for more decorative purposes rather than piecing fabrics together. They used to use them back in the day for sewing names onto handkerchiefs and clothes, creating floral designs on western shirts or for filling in colour to designs on those varsity style jackets (sorry, from Australia, not sure if those jackets have a proper name!!).

Double lockstitches are what you see on the seat seam and on most waistbands of jeans.

[rodeo bill]

^^ absolutely. re bobbin/underthread, the reason chainstitch machines were developed in the first place was to do away with the bobbin. In a factory a lot of time is wasted on regular lock stitch machines (single needle) changing bobbins over, because they can only take a relatively small amount of thread. WIth a chainstitch all the thread comes from above, so can come directly off a big cone, ergo less time spent changing over, and more efficient. The disadvantage is that if you pull the right/wrong thread, the whole thing unravels.... back to denimotaku

[denimotaku]

^^ hey rodeo, that blue hand of yours always freaks me out. i keep thinking it's an industrial strength glove.

despite his scary blue hand, he's spot on about it being a lot less time consuming. that's why most of the parts of a jean sewn with a chain-stitch is usually in a straight line, eg waistband, lapped seams, hems. it's rare to see a chain-stitch where the direction of the stitch changes like when sewing a back pocket onto the back panels. the machinists basically just want to put their foot down on the pedal and let the folder do all the work.

i always find it funny when i see a skipped stitch on a seat seam of some cheaper mass produced jean and the machinists have just sewn a lockstitch over it to secure it from unraveling.. lazy lazy lazy. then again, maybe some people will view that as an imperfection with a repair job and like it even more!!

[Joseph Hill]

Thanks very much for the differentiation. Very illuminating.

You would probably like my vintage Lee chore coat. It's deadstock, and you can see why noone ever wore it. Fully half or more of the triple needle chain(double lock) stitch is stretched, skipped, and broken. I'm not sure why they even bothered to continue with more of the sub-assemblies let alone finish the garment.

[klue]

^^ absolutely. re bobbin/underthread, the reason chainstitch machines were developed in the first place was to do away with the bobbin. In a factory a lot of time is wasted on regular lock stitch machines (single needle) changing bobbins over, because they can only take a relatively small amount of thread. WIth a chainstitch all the thread comes from above, so can come directly off a big cone, ergo less time spent changing over, and more efficient. The disadvantage is that if you pull the right/wrong thread, the whole thing unravels.... back to denimotaku

I think this point is very important forthe superdenim community to understand. Chainstitch or double lockstich is used for faster production. A single lock stich is stronger stitch. Many people think the ropeing on the hem is because of the chainstich but it has more to do with the pulled mechanism and the folder attachment on the machine. Anyone can get extreme roping on their mothers home machine. It is in the hands of the seamer. Roll the hem tight and pull u. It as you sew. Below is an example of this it's not the most extreme roping vie done but it gives you an idea of what can be done on a flatbed lockstitch machine

[klue]

If you want to make your own jeans but dont have pattern or denim, I will sell precut denim for any size jeans in cone mills selvage 13 oz., collect co. Japan 16 oz indigo slub selvage, and collect co. Japanes 24 oz indigo selvage. Pm if interested

[rnrswitch]

If you want to make your own jeans but dont have pattern or denim, I will sell precut denim for any size jeans in cone mills selvage 13 oz., collect co. Japan 16 oz indigo slub selvage, and collect co. Japanes 24 oz indigo selvage. Pm if interested

WHoa dude. Totally cool idea.

[Guest Selvage Seb.]

If you want to make your own jeans but dont have pattern or denim, I will sell precut denim for any size jeans in cone mills selvage 13 oz., collect co. Japan 16 oz indigo slub selvage, and collect co. Japanes 24 oz indigo selvage. Pm if interested

Do you sell instruction booklets as well?

[jlaz93]

I have 4 yards of kiahara selvage thats 13 oz but i dont know how to sew.

[Marshall Deming]

[rnrswitch]

I like those. I would really like them if they didn't have the patches and those belt loops. What fabric did you use for the knee patches and belt loops?

[Marshall Deming]

Kaihara 12.5 ounce grey denim

[rnrswitch]

Has anybody experimented with using the wrong side of the denim for the top? It could look cool and you might not need to use gray denim. Problem is that the exposed yarns run horizontal rather than vertical, maybe they would snag more.

[klue]

I like those. I would really like them if they didn't have the patches and those belt loops. What fabric did you use for the knee patches and belt loops?

I agreed with you at my first reaction because the relationship between the two denims isn't there. But I began to think that after a couple years the universal fading will unify the two fabrics to a cohesive image achieved only through time and use. Let's wailt a year for the final judgement

[tri]

nietenhosen: really nice work.

What's your machine? Did you make the button holes yourself?

[tri]

Is there an European source for selvage denim, rivets and buttons?

Minimum orders of 100USD for buttons and rivets and 45USD denim shipping cost will turns homemade jeans expensive.

[rnrswitch]

Don't quite know if this should go here. X-post from the workshirts thread.

So I tried my hand at making a chambray utility shirt. Easy enough right? Not as easy as it looks, but with a little determination and a seam ripper I was able to make something wearable.

I used a commercially available pattern and altered it a tad bit. Made the collars not so big, obviously re-patterned the pockets, and changed the cuff style.

cigarette pocket.

Utitlity pocket

Collar. I used some vintage selvage brown fabric I found on ebay. Kinda gauzy.

The placket. I used some black cat's eye corrozo buttons. I really like these buttons.

Close up of the button.

Cuffs. I went for a no-placket cuff kinda like the vintage big yanks.

A fabric close up. On expensive fabric someone might call this "loom chatter." On cheap fabric they call it a flaw.

And of course some fit pics.

[dimpra]

it's a great shirt, well done

[madstaxbro]

Dang. If you ever try your hand at commercial production, put me down for a couple shirts.

[rodeo bill]

^^ looks great! shirts are really hard I find- nowhere to hide. On a cigarette pocket I think I'm right in saying that traditionally you'd make the bottom as a pleat, and not topstitch it down? So you get a sort of bellows effect which echos the peaked top flap to make a 3d pocket. I'm sure there are pictures over in workshirts. Lovely buttons too

[Paul T]

Damn good job.

Yes, having a pleat at the bottom, rather than stitching, is common on early workwear. I was told recently that this was designed primarily so you could keep your dollar bills away from your chest, and stop them getting sweaty.

[rnrswitch]

^^ looks great! shirts are really hard I find- nowhere to hide. On a cigarette pocket I think I'm right in saying that traditionally you'd make the bottom as a pleat, and not topstitch it down? So you get a sort of bellows effect which echos the peaked top flap to make a 3d pocket. I'm sure there are pictures over in workshirts. Lovely buttons too

Yeah, I realized this after the pocket was down. I was thinking about pulling it off and putting another back on. Doesn't take much time.

Overall the armscye seam was the hardest to do. Everything else not too hard. The collar was a bit tricky, but not too bad, but pulling off a hand-felled armscye was a bit dicey.

[klue]

Overall the armscye seam was the hardest to do. Everything else not too hard. The collar was a bit tricky, but not too bad, but pulling off a hand-felled armscye was a bit dicey.

What machine did you use for this?

[darly900]

Can anyone point me towards finding some good buttons (I'm UK based), I keep ending up finding the same generic ones repeatedly.

Is ebay my best bet?

Cheers

[Joseph Hill]

Damn good job.

Yes, having a pleat at the bottom, rather than stitching, is common on early workwear. I was told recently that this was designed primarily so you could keep your dollar bills away from your chest, and stop them getting sweaty.

Who cares if your dollars get damp, you want to keep your smokes dry. But nowadays noone wants to say that word... (cigarette) AHHHHH!

We used to have a customer, an older hard-life soul lady, and in the summer time she wold pull those dollar bills out of her brassiere. Damp corner to corner. I suppose we wished she had a pleated pocket...

Switch, on the felling, do you just iron and eyeball it, or are you using guides or felling folders?

[rnrswitch]

What machine did you use for this?

I used a singer 15-91 for the whole thing.

[rnrswitch]

Who cares if your dollars get damp, you want to keep your smokes dry. But nowadays noone wants to say that word... (cigarette) AHHHHH!

We used to have a customer, an older hard-life soul lady, and in the summer time she wold pull those dollar bills out of her brassiere. Damp corner to corner. I suppose we wished she had a pleated pocket...

Switch, on the felling, do you just iron and eyeball it, or are you using guides or felling folders?

Well, on this I eye-balled it. I should start using a felling foot, which is easy for non-curved felled seams, but for curved ones like the armscye, a bit harder. I will need to do that by hand and eyeball it. Also, lots of pins, lots of pins, and some good ironing.

[rnrswitch]

X-post. I thought this belonged in here as well. Bit of an overload maybe.

I put together a denim vest modeled off of my Lofgren vests. I changed up a couple things, mainly I put a busted seam down the back to show off a little selvedge action.

I got the denim from Premium Denim Outlet, which sells some really nice Cone denim for really cheap. They also carry shrink to fit denim from Cone, which is really hard to come by these days. This denim is unsanforized.

The lining is some vintage red /white striped selvedge chambray that I got off of ebay. I thought the fabric was a bit loud for a shirt, so the lining is perfect, maybe still a bit loud.

Chest pocket. A little pleating.

Selvedge accents on inside of chest pocket.

Front left belly pocket

Selvedge accent inside the belly pockets.

busted seam down the back

Large Chest pocket that I lines with canvas around the opening

And the fit:

[ThisSunday]

That's great work, rnr. Very inspiring. Makes me want to try to make something for myself. I'm not in love with the buttons but beautiful piece