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home-made jeans


rodeo bill

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What thread do you use? I mean very specifically?

I have always used Amann thread, as I have always been told that it's the best. I have been using the Saba line, as well as the Seralon.

But I have just noticed their Rasant line, which is poly core and cotton covering, and I have been meaning to buy it for some time now to test it on my first pair of selvage jeans. Unfortunately the Rasant line is not very easy to find.

I use a bunch of different thread. For these jeans I used American & Efird Perma Core thread, which has a poly core and poly wrap. I wanted to use their D Core, which has a poly core and cotton wrap, which wears really nice, but it was hard to find in the weight I wanted.

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What thread do you use? I mean very specifically?

I have always used Amann thread, as I have always been told that it's the best. I have been using the Saba line, as well as the Seralon.

But I have just noticed their Rasant line, which is poly core and cotton covering, and I have been meaning to buy it for some time now to test it on my first pair of selvage jeans. Unfortunately the Rasant line is not very easy to find.

I use a bunch of different thread. For these jeans I used American & Efird Perma Core thread, which has a poly core and poly wrap. I wanted to use their D Core, which has a poly core and cotton wrap, which wears really nice, but it was hard to find in the weight I wanted.

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thackbarth, those look great. I'm in Nashville as well. Are you making them just for yourself or selling too?

Thanks! Right now I'm just making them for myself and wife. I am just finishing up a pair for her today or tomorrow. I'm not really set up for production, and fitting for other people can be tough. Plus, it takes such a long time to make a custom pair that I would have to charge a ridiculous amount to make it worth my while.

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thackbarth, those look great. I'm in Nashville as well. Are you making them just for yourself or selling too?

Thanks! Right now I'm just making them for myself and wife. I am just finishing up a pair for her today or tomorrow. I'm not really set up for production, and fitting for other people can be tough. Plus, it takes such a long time to make a custom pair that I would have to charge a ridiculous amount to make it worth my while.

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I'm new here, but love seeing all of the projects in this thread. I've been learning how to design and make my own clothes for about a year and a half now. I thought I would share some pictures of a pair of selvedge denim jeans I finished earlier this year. The denim is a 12.5 oz from Cone Mills.

folded_back.jpg

Amazing work, and all straight stitch. Where did you get the Cone from, if you don't mind? Love the blank selvedge.

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I'm new here, but love seeing all of the projects in this thread. I've been learning how to design and make my own clothes for about a year and a half now. I thought I would share some pictures of a pair of selvedge denim jeans I finished earlier this year. The denim is a 12.5 oz from Cone Mills.

folded_back.jpg

Amazing work, and all straight stitch. Where did you get the Cone from, if you don't mind? Love the blank selvedge.

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  • 3 months later...

Not exactly jeans, but I made a laundry bag using some Cone Mills selvage denim and other fabric. You can read about the process here.

6137235917_e8288e0c8f_z.jpg

IMG_3584 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137231429_9bdacf5c06_z.jpg

IMG_3575 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137230839_0532a0ee72_z.jpg

IMG_3572 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137239063_11d95ef920_z.jpg

IMG_3580 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137232519_6a654dcbc4_z.jpg

IMG_3576 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137761224_3a2d3203b3_z.jpg

IMG_3587 by tuntelder, on Flickr

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Not exactly jeans, but I made a laundry bag using some Cone Mills selvage denim and other fabric. You can read about the process here.

6137235917_e8288e0c8f_z.jpg

IMG_3584 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137231429_9bdacf5c06_z.jpg

IMG_3575 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137230839_0532a0ee72_z.jpg

IMG_3572 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137239063_11d95ef920_z.jpg

IMG_3580 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137232519_6a654dcbc4_z.jpg

IMG_3576 by tuntelder, on Flickr

6137761224_3a2d3203b3_z.jpg

IMG_3587 by tuntelder, on Flickr

This such a nice piece of art and its very useful. If you don't mind me asking did you get the denim straight from cone mills? Or did you order it online?

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Thank you very much, Bsally. You are too kind.

A friend of a friend bought it in San Francisco or LA for me and sent it to me (in Denmark). The name of the shop escapes me right now.

This is just a prototype, that we made rather quickly. I plan on making some more. possibly with other fabrics in the bottom, as I have collected vintage fabrics for a long time. And I also thought about adding a small pocket or purse for laundry money, but since I never use a laundromat, I didn't ad one on this bag :-)

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Thanks! It's my favourite feature as well.

What you can't see is that it is backed on both the back on the front with a leather ring.

What you can see, is that it is really hard sewing in a circle, especially if you're trying to sew on two round leather pieces at the same time...

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I'm new here, but love seeing all of the projects in this thread. I've been learning how to design and make my own clothes for about a year and a half now. I thought I would share some pictures of a pair of selvedge denim jeans I finished earlier this year. The denim is a 12.5 oz from Cone Mills.

folded_back.jpg

half_front_2.jpg

half_back.jpg

cuffs_seams.jpg

selvedge_coin_pocket_2.jpg

inside_pocket.jpg

selvedge_fly.jpg

fit_front_2.jpg

fit_side.jpg

These are amazing. I'd pay good money for a pair of these.

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Dude... trust me. I know what you mean...! Haha.! That's why I'm so damn impressed.! And the fact that its gonna strengthen the hold of the grommet, and make it easier on the fabric makes it all the more damn impressive.!

Wish i could rep more.!

Your comments are just as good! Or even better. So thank you very much.

Now, this was my first attempt at sewing two round leather patches on denim, so this might not be worth much, but I found doing three stitches at the time, then turning the fabric made a pretty good result.

I guess the next couple of bags, I make, will get better and better. This was just a pretty quick proto, we did.

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  • 5 months later...

Howdy, long time lurker here.

Started these in the summer, went with a trouser cut for a little variation. I bought Cone mills redline selvedge and a blue( cant remember the varying weights, but they are noticeably different), used one type on the front panels and the other on the back to test and compare the wear on both. They have been completed since these pictures but due to my extraordinary ability in smashing phones and cameras with great ease I have been unable to photograph the finished article.

These were my second attempt at trousers, and as you can see I had a little trouble with thread tension on my tiny overlocker which has left me with unkept seams.

img_0913.jpgimg_0914.jpgimg_0915.jpgimg_0916.jpgimg_0918.jpg

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you probably want 5000m 36s polycore. should be able to get it online easily enough.

What he said... :-)

What machinery are you guys using?

I still haven't invested in anything other than my two household machines - vintage Singer 221 and 222. Although I have bought an semi industrial overlocker, which isn't working at the moment though.

As I also do leather work, so I can't really decide between getting a big leather sewing machine or maybe getting an industrial sewing machine for sewing fabrics.

And have any of your come across any laurel leaf donut buttons?

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Ive got a brother db2, which was donated to me. But most industrial machines will need servicing which is the big expense. For leatherwork Ive just picked up a singer 133k, should be good for up to a half inch of leather!

laurel leaf donut buttons?

this guy is nice and quick to deal with, been mentioned on here before.

www.citronjeans.com/

Edited by hardy
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The 133k looks a lot like a 45ksv machine, that I was supposed to have bought at one point, but the machine held some sentimental value to the seller, so he changed his mind in the very last second.

From what I can tell the 133k is quite a good machine, although I think some of them don't have a feeding mechanism, which would make them more appropriate for darning or embroidery or stuff like that. But I do believe, that I read somewhere, that it also handles heavy cloths quite well.

Laurel leaf donut buttons are almost exactly like the buttons, that Citronjeans are selling. What have you purchased there?

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they look similar, but the 133k is bigger and can deal with more than the 45k. mine is a walking-foot model, but I think they do a normal feed version. I think you have the 47w in mind when you refer to a darning machine with no feed mechanism.

I bought some plain donut buttons and some some plain copper rivets. I also bought a handsetting tool, which is a poor alternative to a proper hand press. I think I had the stuff within a week of ordering.

I had already acquired some cone mills denim but I also spoke to Kenji at citronjeans about denim he had for sale. he ad three options:

A:(#348) width79cm 13oz/yard2 price:840yen/m

B:(#394) width83cm 14oz/yard2 price:900yen/m

C:(#361) width74cm 14.5oz/yard2 price:900yen/m

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they look similar, but the 133k is bigger and can deal with more than the 45k. mine is a walking-foot model, but I think they do a normal feed version. I think you have the 47w in mind when you refer to a darning machine with no feed mechanism.

I bought some plain donut buttons and some some plain copper rivets. I also bought a handsetting tool, which is a poor alternative to a proper hand press. I think I had the stuff within a week of ordering.

I had already acquired some cone mills denim but I also spoke to Kenji at citronjeans about denim he had for sale. he ad three options:

A:(#348) width79cm 13oz/yard2 price:840yen/m

B:(#394) width83cm 14oz/yard2 price:900yen/m

C:(#361) width74cm 14.5oz/yard2 price:900yen/m

I didn't mean a darning machine - but I meant, that some of the 133's without a feeding mechanism would probably only be suitable for darning, repairs or even embroidery of some sort... Sorry for any misunderstanding.

A good hand press is very good to have, but I'm yet to purchase one. My hobby workshop, which is getting better and more well-equipped every day, is not ready for one yet. But it's on my to buy list.

What else are you making?

I think I'll stick to Cone, unless I can find some really interesting denim from Japan or similar.

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Don't quite know if this should go here. X-post from the workshirts thread.

So I tried my hand at making a chambray utility shirt. Easy enough right? Not as easy as it looks, but with a little determination and a seam ripper I was able to make something wearable.

I used a commercially available pattern and altered it a tad bit. Made the collars not so big, obviously re-patterned the pockets, and changed the cuff style.

001medium.jpg

cigarette pocket.

002small.jpg

Utitlity pocket

003smalll.jpg

Collar. I used some vintage selvage brown fabric I found on ebay. Kinda gauzy.

004small.jpg

The placket. I used some black cat's eye corrozo buttons. I really like these buttons.

005small.jpg

Close up of the button.

006small.jpg

Cuffs. I went for a no-placket cuff kinda like the vintage big yanks.

009small.jpg

A fabric close up. On expensive fabric someone might call this "loom chatter." On cheap fabric they call it a flaw.

008small.jpg

And of course some fit pics.

015mediumb.jpg

010medium.jpg

how much fabric did you need to make this shirt? im thinking about making one myself and i just need to know how much fabric to purchase thanksssss

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  • 1 month later...

how much fabric did you need to make this shirt? im thinking about making one myself and i just need to know how much fabric to purchase thanksssss

Sorry I missed this. I needed about 3.5 yds of fabric for this shirt. I think it could have been less, but i was pretty careless when it came to cutting out the pattern.

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