Samurai Jeans

[Max Power]

It all depends on your heat tolerance. I couldn't survive one day in indonesia, not matter what trouseres I wore. And then there are guys that wear 25 oz denim there. I found the 19 oz too hot even on colder days, as the fabric is not very breathy and tightly woven.

[Cold Summer]

I haven't worn my S710s very much in summer, either.  On the other hand now that my 1001s are broken in they feel perfectly comfortable in warmer weather despite being 16 oz, so maybe it depends on your taste, to some extent.

[Artisandenim]

Brad - your summers aren't that bad: Look at me rocking a t-shirt and shit!

Admittedly that was a (very) long time ago...

Max and Cold Summer - that's fair points about the tight weave/personal taste.

I reckon I can manage the 19oz ok just from being a stubborn b'stard.

It's the 21oz i'm about to collect that i think might be the final straw (thread) as it were... They arrived at the parcelforce depot this morning and seeing as i'm working the next 6 days straight i've decided to go and pick 'em up. I've also decided to further terrorise my 710's by making the 10 mile round trip on my Cannondale. This is probably a really stupid idea 'cos it's just about to pour down with rain, which apparently at the moment is chock full of dust from the Sahara. Should make for an interesting cold wash...

Edited April 2, 2014 by Artisandenim

[louisbosco]

It all depends on your heat tolerance. I couldn't survive one day in indonesia, not matter what trouseres I wore. And then there are guys that wear 25 oz denim there. I found the 19 oz too hot even on colder days, as the fabric is not very breathy and tightly woven.

 

 

this is true. having been in singapore with it's heat and humidity. then in perth during summer which is known for it's heatwaves. it really depends on each individual. for me, it's absolutely fine having been accustomed to that weather.

[Max Power]

I live in a city where people have barbecue and icecream when it's 8°C, as long as the sun is shining. We feel like shorts are approbriate above 15°C...

[louisbosco]

shorts. what are they?  i've never gotten around to wear them much cause of jeans. HAHAHA.

[Artisandenim]

Right, that was an effort... I'll put up measurements/fit pics etc as soon as, but initial reaction to the s5000vx 21oz;

First thought was: damn those legs look big. I'm thinking right away that I could've (perhaps should've) sized down one from the 710's which were already sized down one from my natural waist. There will be no gentle soaking for these bad boys - they are going straight in the machine.

The denim - while obviously thicker - already feels softer than the 710's and I'm really not sure if I'm disappointed with this because I'm a glutton for punishment, or pleased at the instant comfort!

These have me in quite a confused state if I'm honest. They are clearly beautifully made and I like the detailing (red/silver selvedge, arcs etc) but I think I'm still batting for the 710's at the moment. As long as the sizing works out after a wash (I had my worries with the 710's at first too - totally down to inexperience) I think i am going to really enjoy figuring out which I prefer and why.

[Max Power]

Don't worry, many Samurai fits look awful in raw state. But I mut admit, that the 5000 or 510 sometimes don't look to flatering in bigger sizes, as the legs are huge when the waist is sized right. I can't say I find th 21 oz denim much softer, it just lacks some of the nice slubs, that's why I prefer the 19 oz.

Edited April 3, 2014 by Max Power

[poiuytr]

S710VX IDC

[Spitn2]

Have any of you ever had a problem with wearing your Sammies, then washing them (shrinking in the process) which leads to the fades not fitting your body as well? This happened with my pair of Imperials and I'm wondering if I should soak them in hot water soon so that I don't have to deal with it later then sooner. Let me know! (I've pre-soaked them 2x, but I feel like there's a lot of shrinkage left because I never did a wash.) 

Edited April 4, 2014 by Spitn2

[mange]

Can only talk from my experience, buy I soaked my S5000vx twice in the hottest tap water before I started wearing them. Also after every wash I stretch the legs and waist.

 

For me the wrinkle fades matched up perfectly after wash, no problem there.

[Cold Summer]

Have any of you ever had a problem with wearing your Sammies, then washing them (shrinking in the process) which leads to the fades not fitting your body as well? This happened with my pair of Imperials and I'm wondering if I should soak them in hot water soon so that I don't have to deal with it later then sooner. Let me know! (I've pre-soaked them 2x, but I feel like there's a lot of shrinkage left because I never did a wash.) 

 

Oh, that's only happened with... pretty much every pair of raw jeans I've ever worn.

Even my sanforized selvedge Nudies had this problem.

 

I gave my S710s a hot spin in the washing machine when I got them, and when I washed four months later, they shrunk and the combs don't completely line up anymore.  Same thing happened on my 1001s, 3009s, and so on.

 

This is why I tell people to get your jeans completely, absolutely shrunk before you start wearing them.  Throw them in the dryer, hot wash them six times, do whatever it takes. 

 

What's really baffling to me though is how this somehow doesn't affect other people.  One guy can start wearing his Flat Heads after one 45-minute cold soak that hasn't nearly gotten all the shrinkage out, and wash for the first time at five or six months, have the jeans shrink a lot, and yet somehow the combs still line up perfectly.  It makes no sense to me, particularly since my body weight doesn't fluctuate at all or anything like that.

 

Mini-rant over.

[Max Power]

I never had this problem. I just take out the Jeans of the machine, align the combs by hand a bit and put them on still damp (not wet!). So they stretch back and the combs set in just the way they were. If I would hot iron the jeans before putting them on, I figure the combs might set in at another place.

 

I mean, if you got 2" shrinkage out of the inseam by soaking them before the first wear and they shrink 1" more after the first wash (what would be much), the combs would sit 0,5" higher than before. This should not be an issue.

[bradl]

Got that with my R400H, but only the combs didn't match up. Not totally heartbroken over it. But I hot washed them twice before wearing them as well. 710s were fine though, and they were put through a double hot wash 4 months into their life.

[Spitn2]

Wow didn't expect such a fast response haha. So you guys think I should do another hot soak soon? I'm 3 months into my 710s, so the shrinkage will probably be more than the initial soaks. 

[Max Power]

X-Post from HDC2

 

[vinchenzo]

I love the fit and the color. A reason to grab a pair one day.

[JohnM]

I just received my first pair of S710XX Samurais from Hiro at BiG today and have yet to soak them.  The overall fit is fantastic, as is the 19 oz. denim, but I'm concerned about size.  I ordered 35 and am wondering if I should have gone with 36.  How much shrinkage should I expect with a hot soak and line dry?  More shrinkage with additional cold washes?  The overall fit and feel in their current raw/unwashed state -- a little extra room everywhere, but if they come in a full two inches in the waist, I may be in trouble.

 

Thanks,

John

[ColdStorage]

I think you are going to be ok. I've been through 2 pairs of 710s and both ended up 1" larger than their raw measurement after a few washes and lots of wear. There is a LOT of stretch in these things if you need em. I'm not one of the "extreme size down" guys but I do think that, witht he 19oz denim at least, its a pair that you want sort of snug in the raw state.

 

I don't ever tumble dry so YMMV depending on your care regiment... 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Can you wear them comfortable in the waist right now pre-soak? With a bit of room? Then you should be good 

Edited April 8, 2014 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Max Power]

You will never get 2" shrinkage in the waist. Rather 1-1,5 that stretches back out to or above raw state. If the thighs are good (not just ok) you should be fine.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I am thinking about letting my Lot.12 S0510XX (15oz Texas Cotton), Lot.10 S510XX19oz and Lot.12 S5000VX go.

The two 510s are once machine washed and maybe worn 5 times (no signs of fading) and the S5000VX are BNWT.

 

All pairs feature the old style arcs and of course red tab.

 

Hit me up with your offers.

 

 

edit: all size 34.

Oh, thanks Flo

Edited April 9, 2014 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Artisandenim]

Yeah, should be fine John.

 

I'm a month into my 710's. I warm/hot soaked them twice and machine washed (on hand wash setting, no spin 40 degrees) once, mainly to get as much shrink out as possible before hemming, all in the first week. Line dried each time.

 

The first soak made all the difference, the next soak and wash did little or nothing really and I doubt i'll bother in future. My waist measures 30", I went for a tag size 29. The waist measurement progress:

 

New, pre soaks etc - 29.5

after all soaks/wash - 28

now (4 weeks later) - 30

 

ps Max - those are F'ing amazing. Excuse my ignorance but which are they?

[Max Power]

Thanks. These are S500XX Naniwa. A collab with Aikidou limited to 100pairs, 19 oz denim with hidden arcs and a lovely patch.

 

Oh, well deserved, b_f.

Edited April 8, 2014 by Max Power

[Artisandenim]

Mmmmmm hidden arcs....

[louisbosco]

oh wow. old arcs. only problem is the size. when i was in osaka, i tried searching for them in the samurai store. but they either didnt have them in my size or the cut i wanted.

[JohnM]

Thanks to your input Kyle, Flo, Max, and Artisandenim regarding shrinkage of the 19 oz. S710XX (size 35).

 

Flo -- yes, they're comfortable in their raw state, with a bit of room.  Not tight anywhere, just a little extra space in the key spots.

 

With some raw jeans, especially of the heavy and stiff variety, it's hard to tell how they'll fit after soaking/drying.  These are fairly thick, as you know, but not stiff, so you can get a sense of post soak fit, assuming shrinkage isn't too great.  Sounds like they'll shrink 1.0 to 1.5" in the waist but that the denim stretches back.  I was going to have Hiro send me the 36, but now I'm inclined to keep these and give it a go, based on your input.

 

Much appreciated, thanks.

John

 

P.S.  I also received raw Fullcount 1108XX in 35 and 36.  While the waist is much the same (37 or 37.25") in all three pairs (Samurais included), the 1108XX runs trimmer through the thigh.  For this reason (assuming I keep them), I'll probably stick with 36 and hope they come in everywhere.  Sorry to get off the Samurai topic -- may also post in the FC subforum.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I'd say the 1108XX denim shrinks more than the Samurai 19oz denim.

 

If you post some pre-soak fit pics we might even give you better insight

[JohnM]

Your thoughts on sizing are appreciated.  All of these are raw/pre-soak.

 

Samurai S710XX size 35

 

 

Fullcount 1108XX size 35

 

 

 

Fullcount 1108XX size 36

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

So from that I would say the size 35 in the 710 should work. the size 35 in the Fullcounts however...thighs look ok from the pic but the crotch/hip area looks tight. As you already said, the size 36 would be better in the 1108XX