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cecil

By cecil
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Duke Mantee
Duke Mantee

And one for @chicote - who actually provided this lovely vintage fabric that’s been used for the overlay … maybe he can tell you more about it I have to say, his choice of materials and colours i

Duke Mantee
Duke Mantee

This belt for my buddy @shadesofindig0 on IG - made from a beautifully pure Vachetta leather and overlaid with some antique Japanese indigo boro cloth dating from Meiji Period (1868-1912) and an antiq

Broark
Broark

Received my belts from @Duke Mantee, couldn't be more pleased with them!

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mikecch

mikecch

Posted
Posted

So, 26 belts have been ordered so far... you guys better put up some pictures when you receive them!

This will be epic...15+ oz, 12 months oak bark tanned leather in a natural undyed finish with special emphasis on the 'growth' of the grain, hand-stitched with buckle of choice, burnished to baby-bottom smoothness, curved and tip-tapered for maximum functionality.

Belts don't get better than this :)

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fre-co

fre-co

Posted
Posted

I went to see your man Terry yesterday. He showed me the buckles but had none of the leather in the shop, so I'm going back next weekend. He is a good guy for sure.

He told me he was making number 6 and had some ready to ship out. He is waiting on another butt from the tannery since he needs more to fill the orders and expects it within a week or so. He quoted me about 3 weeks if I order one and that would be number 27.

Just to clarify, these are not cut with a curve as I think was mentioned earlier.

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fre-co

fre-co

Posted
Posted
^ Mine is on it's way to Australia already :)

No curve? I see...

My old one had a slight curve, I guess this time the amount of hide is the limiting factor...

Did you end up ordering one fre$co?

Yeah the hide is the limiting factor, he said the waste would be too much from the butts an it would end up costing a lot, since these butts are virtually rectangular as opposed to shoulders.

Anyway, they will develop a curve with use, and this leather takes on the curve quite readily.

I haven't ordered one, I'm waiting to see the leather in person. You see, I have a Samurai stitched belt that I wear everyday so I don't 'need' it at all but if the leather blows me away I will order one.

He doesn't do the pippin shaped (teardrop) holes that you see on some Japanese belts, he can do chicago screws but prefers to stitch the end. The buckles are hand forged solid brass with or without nickel plating. They don't look as heavy as my samurai buckle but decent enough.

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entertainment!

entertainment!

Posted
Posted
Hmm im supposed to be no. 7 and he hasn't given me his paypal email yet. Communication with him has been a bit slow. Maybe its because i'm ordering more items and he's settling the natural oak bark belts first.

lazybum, the paypal address is on his website at the bottom of the price list page.

BTW, I am the much discussed #6 on the queue. Will definitely post pics. I already bought a brown belt similar to yours, Mike. It is really a beauty. I have been wearing it every day since I got it.

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fre-co

fre-co

Posted
Posted

Well, I went to see Terry and a couple of belts that are in progress today (9 and 10 I think, going to Andy in the US and someone in Singapore on Monday). They are pretty damn nice.....

I ordered one. 1.5inch, English point, no crease lines, nickel buckle. I think I am about number 30. He said the orders are slowing down now.

He showed me some dyed samples of the leather, the tan looked pretty nice.

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raWorkshop

raWorkshop

Posted
Posted

Dragging this up again.

I say this with no bias, even though some might think otherwise...

The cheaper belts that we see in this thread don't end up looking as nice as the ones which cost more (which we assume start with a higher quality leather).

Even from my knowledge i would think that all price levels of leathers would start out on an even playing field but from viewing the sixty pages of this thread it seams that is definitely not the case.

The assumption about higher quality leather, stricter quality control on the baths, whatever variables are build into that are probably right. One thing I don't think was mentioned was the finishing on the edges and inside face of the belts. Could better craftsmanship (smoother bevels, more polished back sides, proper sealant on all crafted surfaces) lead to better retention of natural and incidental oils/moisture? Thus a better crafted belt will be able to develop on it's own terms.

veg-tan-leather-belt-blank-9-10-oz.jpg

This picture barely shows it, but you can see the difference in smoothness on the inside to the outside. I mention the inside of the belt specifically because the rough, unpolished and excess leather really does create a massive surface area. A poor finish might cause loss of oils and maybe more importantly exposure to damaging sweat from the wearer.

Just a thought. I'll post up some pictures of my daily wear belt this afternoon to get some content flowing.

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tropicalbird

tropicalbird

Posted
Posted
Dragging this up again.

The assumption about higher quality leather, stricter quality control on the baths, whatever variables are build into that are probably right. One thing I don't think was mentioned was the finishing on the edges and inside face of the belts. Could better craftsmanship (smoother bevels, more polished back sides, proper sealant on all crafted surfaces) lead to better retention of natural and incidental oils/moisture? Thus a better crafted belt will be able to develop on it's own terms.

This picture barely shows it, but you can see the difference in smoothness on the inside to the outside. I mention the inside of the belt specifically because the rough, unpolished and excess leather really does create a massive surface area. A poor finish might cause loss of oils and maybe more importantly exposure to damaging sweat from the wearer.

Just a thought. I'll post up some pictures of my daily wear belt this afternoon to get some content flowing.

If a belt is finished properly like you mentioned, then you'll have lots of people complaining that it doesn't age properly. Tooling leather as shown in your picture is very dry and not weather resistant. Bridle leather on the other hand is much more suitable to the task, but is colored and finished at the tannery. I don't how several belt makers claim they use "natural" bridle leather, could be a misnomer because I asked/looked around and there ain't such a thing.

p.s That's hella thick for a 9-10oz

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mikecch

mikecch

Posted
Posted

^ Leather tankards FTW!!!

Please share some pics when you get them :)

^^ On a different note though, I know that some makers leave the edges or back unfinished so the belt can 'evolve' even more, which I have no problems with. It's only when burnishes and finishes are done sloppily that the quality becomes unacceptable.

I don't think oil and moisture loss is a huge issue with the thick, high quality veg. tanned leathers used for belting if a little bit of maintenance is done regularly...even for people like me living in the dry climate of Australia.

I think large parts of what Kiya was referring to are probably the quality/selection of the hide, the cut, and the tanning process as well.

Certainly, dedicated craftsmen like Terry will pick the hides (or even request specific tannages, like the extended oak-bark tan leather many of us will soon be wearing!) from the tanneries to ensure the best possible leather is used for the purpose of belting.

Also, I think it is very desirable to work with craftsmen like Unlucky, with whom (to a certain extent) you can choose a variety of leather types/thickness, tip finishes, hardware, stitching, etc....

It's interesting to note that most Japanese brands source their leathers from the US and UK, so I don't see why we have to pay mega-bucks for RM, TFH, etc when the same thing can be obtained from a suitably qualified 'local' craftsmen.

On that note though, I do have a belt made by a belt-maker in Kyoto coming soon - it's made of natural 15 oz leather from Tochigi (think the Kawatako sword-belts)... this should be interesting, comparing the best of Japanese leathers to what the US and UK have to offer :)

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mikecch

mikecch

Posted
Posted

Haha, I had around 20 as of last year, and gave away all but one (my Dolce Vita)...I'm trying to rebuild my belt collection right now (also working on a new design with Unlucky atm); just a couple more than I'm set for the next decade :P

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mikecch

mikecch

Posted
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I'm afraid it will not fit all belt loops :D

Only goes with the best of denim :)

that is a thing of beauty mike.. fit pics please ;)

Thanks mate, will do once the waxing is done!

Beautiful Mike. Must spread.

He's working on mine now...and you've just upped my impatience level quite a bit!

Props on putting this whole project together BTW.....great work,

No worries - thanks to everyone on my pre-order list!

Group buy power~

The leather on these is seriously on a different level from any other natural leather belt I've seen - the grain is absolutely incredible (even more pronounced than my brown belt from Terry), and that includes ones from the famous Japanese makes - Terry's belt eats them for supper.

pb030028.jpg

This is the juggernaut of belts, the planet-buster, the true standard by which all others shall be judged :P

OK, I'm getting a wee bit too excited.

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mikecch

mikecch

Posted
Posted

Here's the other one that arrived today, made from Tochigi leather by a craftsman at the Kyoto Free-Mart for Atomic Warp.

1.5 months dual-veg tanned...a finer/more supple leather than the usual veg tan from the US or UK.. Craftsmanship is superb - the burnish and finish on the back is better than most belts I've seen...

pb030069.jpg

pb030083.jpg

I have fitted it with a heavy duty Dolce Vita buckle (nickel-chromium plated brass):

pb030094.jpg

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