Real McCoy's / Joe McCoy's Jeans

[Flash]

I'm London for a few days so I picked up one of the new freedom sleeve sweats from the McCoys shop , nice and comfy and super soft as always 

 

[EdwardBear]

I see the Lot001XX is now on Superdenim- anyone tempted?

[Foxy2]

always, but I really shouldn't...

[lance]

^ ^^ Me too, I have nothing from Real McCoy’s and these really are tempting. Are they exclusive to Superdenim or will someone in the USA carry them?

[Geeman]

They are a general RMC release.

[lance]

^ Thanks, Geeman

[Aries]

19 hours ago, Foxy2 said:

always, but I really shouldn't...

This sums it up.

[Foxy2]

Sad - I know...

[lance]

Question and I’m not raggin on McCoy’s. Are the new 001XX synth dyed jeans really worth nearly 400 US shipped? I’ve never had anything from them so I’m looking for opinions based on people’s past/present quality assessments. Thanks

[Foxy2]

I would expect to see shops like S&S to offer them for around $350, if they are going to stock them - it’s only Superdenim/RMC London that goes for +$400...

if they are worth a specific amount of money is highly subjective and depends on what $400 are worth to you. I can say that Red Cloud or TCB can be a lot of fun at a fraction of the cost. Personally, I would not recommend them as a beginner’s pair.

the more serious Japanese labels play in the price region of $280-350 these days in order to capture their overhead cost (incl. profit) and, more importantly, to make a distinction.

we have seen former brand deciples turn their back on RMC based on quality concerns - only to go for the next higher price level...

[lance]

Thanks, Foxy2, for answering my question. It has become a moot point for me as I’ve learned in reading that the jeans are Sanforized and I do not buy Sanforized cotton garments. The only Sanforized denim I own is the Blue in Green/Momotaro collab; Ai dyed with silver buttons, aluminum rivets and an indigo dyed patch. I’ve worn them twice; there is just something about the feel of Sanforized cotton, probably all in my head!

[StrangeNeil]

1 hour ago, Foxy2 said:

I would expect to see shops like S&S to offer them for around $350, if they are going to stock them - it’s only Superdenim/RMC London that goes for +$400...

if they are worth a specific amount of money is highly subjective and depends on what $400 are worth to you. I can say that Red Cloud or TCB can be a lot of fun at a fraction of the cost. Personally, I would not recommend them as a beginner’s pair.

the more serious Japanese labels play in the price region of $280-350 these days in order to capture their overhead cost (incl. profit) and, more importantly, to make a distinction.

we have seen former brand deciples turn their back on RMC based on quality concerns - only to go for the next higher price level...

We'll be stocking the new Lot 001XX jeans although our price will be closer to RMC London as the USD has weakened against the yen recently. 
EDIT: our price will be around $365 which is congruent with the London store's VAT-free USD pricing.

I did speak with RMC about the new denim - they've spent a significant amount of time developing the fabric from the yarn level up. After 2 years of development they were happy with the result and went into production. The denim is unsanforized, crispy at first, with just a little bit of slubby texture visible when raw.

 

One thing to note on McCoy's jeans - they use 100% cotton thread as it sews up and ages differently than modern poly-core thread, which McCoy's prefer for the more vintage-correct look and feeling. The cotton thread may result in blowouts sooner than poly-core (depending on how hard you wear your jeans) - no your jeans aren't going to fall apart, but they could need service a little sooner. I don't think this will be too much of an issue with the Lot 001XX as the cut is much fuller.  have a number of pair of OA jeans with 100% cotton thread and I haven't had any issues with thread failures. 

Edited March 18, 2018 by StrangeNeil

[beautiful_FrEaK]

So they are also really sanforized? See, that's the thing I don't get with RMC.

They claim to reproduce the iconic 501 and also the fabric of the time, developing it over 2 years and then sanforize it...

Yeah I know they did it probably to make the sizing easier and Tsujimoto said he only takes inspiration of the items he recreates, still I think it's odd.

 

EDIT: thanks Neal for stepping in and saying the fabric is unsanforized

Edited March 18, 2018 by beautiful_FrEaK

[StrangeNeil]

9 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

So they are also really sanforized? See, that's the thing I don't get with RMC.

They claim to reproduce the iconic 501 and also the fabric of the time, developing it over 2 years and then sanforize it...

Yeah I know they did it probably to make the sizing easier and Tsujimoto said he only takes inspiration of the items he recreates, still I think it's odd.

 

EDIT: thanks Neal for stepping in and saying the fabric is unsanforized

You're welcome! A lot of info on the web gets mixed up, either due to wrong information or translation issues. We always confirm our product details directly with McCoy's before putting them up on the web (forums, our website, IG, etc). 

[MJF9]

The new lot 001 are £325 (approx $450) on Superdenim.

[Broark]

Looking forward to seeing some better photos of the denim, I'm interested in a pair against my better judgement.

[lance]

Thanks for the clarification, StrangeNeil. I see on the Superdenim site they are "Japanese Selvedge Sanforized Denim" for 331 US, on Heddels site unsanforized for 436 US, on McCoy's site 365 US but they do not mention Sanforized or unsanforized, shipping not included. Quite a variable price range and answers my first question.

edit: I see Superdenim has since deleted the “Japanese Selvedge Sanforized Denim” under specifications, maybe they read this site 

Edited March 18, 2018 by lance

[Niro]

1 hour ago, lance said:

Thanks, Foxy2, for answering my question. It has become a moot point for me as I’ve learned in reading that the jeans are Sanforized and I do not buy Sanforized cotton garments. The only Sanforized denim I own is the Blue in Green/Momotaro collab; Ai dyed with silver buttons, aluminum rivets and an indigo dyed patch. I’ve worn them twice; there is just something about the feel of Sanforized cotton, probably all in my head!

Sanforized at first can feel 'meh', maybe feel not much different to the mainstream jeans, but gets a lot better after a wash or two.

[lance]

^ I'll have to wash those Blue in Green/Momotaro jeans, Niro, maybe they'll finally get some wear!  

[Niro]

good plan! I was not impressed with the feel of my pair of momos (copper label) until after i put em through the wash. Then got better after a 2nd wash.

[MJF9]

^ just checked again and there are two lot 001s on superdenim.com - the price tag is pretty tasty on both regardless.

Lot001XX, new 50s model, at £325... mentions shrinkage on the sizing page i.e. https://www.superdenim.com/uk/lot-001xx-denim.html.

The old Lot001 is at £295, sanforised with an eye wateringly low rise. 

Would be good to see some pics of the 50s from whoever gets to them first...

[lance]

May be the reason for my confusion, thanks, MJF9.

[MJF9]

^ no worries mate - I had to check back myself tbh - sure I seen a lot 001 jacket too!

[Foxy2]

Lot.001 got mentioned on SuFu from 2011 onwards (one member claiming that his pair was almost 2 years old at that point).

around 2012/2013 MP9147 got released in a 16.5oz denim - sanforized or not, but it certainly had a low front rise - always preferred Lot.003 (MP14143) in terms of front rise and denim weight.
hard to say what denim and front rise came with pre-2012/2013 Lot.001's...

Lot.001XX (MP17051) seems to follow Lot.003's measurements - that, together with a more moderate fabric weight in an un-sanforized denim makes them appealing again. I'll probably wait until the first examples show up here on the forum before I convince myself to get a pair.

[MJF9]

Took a trip to RMC London to try on the Lot001XX. My main takeaway was they are very voluminous. I tried on a pair that fit on the waist (raw) but they felt very roomy everywhere. Funnily enough not dissimilar fit-wise to a pair of Warehouse 1001 I tried recently. The guys said they settle down after a good soak and wear. I was interested in seeing pictures of the denim when faded - even as a test trail of the denim - but they said there weren't any. Apparently RMC knew the denim was right after 2 years of development and then went straight to production. I'm curious to know how, without seeing them fade, RMC can be so sure they have created an authentic 50s denim. I'll look forward to seeing the first pair somewhere down the line.

[Aries]

What was your impression on sizing in comparison to RMC/JMC's other denim @MJF9?

[StrangeNeil]

We got our delivery a couple days ago. When raw the waist measures around 2" bigger than the tag size (size 30 measures 32").

Gen (who works at the shop) got a pair, fit is similar to the Ooe Yofukuten OA-01 cut. He didn't size up, when raw it fits snug in the waist and it stretched 1" after a day of wear. He's doing a soak tonight and we'll post up post-soak measurements as well as post-shrink-post-wear after they stretch. He's going to wear them exclusively for at least 6 months so we can get a good idea of how the denim evolves. We'll have them on our webshop soon.

[kicks79]

@Flash Have you washed your sweat yet?

Superdenim says to expect a ton of shrinkage, wondering what your experience is?

[MJF9]

@Aries I haven't had any real experience with other RMC/JMC jeans so I'd be guessing if I tried to compare mate. Looks like Gen's data and evo updates will help though.

[edmond]

we recently got some real mccoys at the store including the j22 and the lot001xx jeans