Studio D'artisan

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Anyone find the hems of SDA jeans too narrow? The hems of my Suvin Gold and G-002 are so narrow, there is nearly no roping effect because of this. 

It's still very narrow on the 108 but at least it there is the roping effect. 

[Maynard Friedman]

I’ll have to check the original hems on my (still raw) 101s and 001s and get back to you on that. My worn 101s have been hemmed and have roping a-plenty!

[lance]

I just checked my unwashed 1728 Supima x Giza and they are quite narrow but I think they are just wide enough to show reasonable roping; good observation b_F, I missed it.

[Geeman]

BF is on the ball, like a denim Sherlock Holmes!

Mine have been hemmed since buying so all good. Short leg benefits at last!

[Foxy2]

will be getting the G-001 soon - let's check...

most of my other pairs got re-hemmed.

[lance]

 

 Raw XXX-28 on bottom      Raw D1728 on top

     

 

Washed and worn XXX-28 on bottom  Raw XXX-28 on top 

The top photo shows just a smidgen of difference in hem width between a >10 year old pair of raw XXX-28 jeans on bottom and a much newer pair of raw D1728 on top. Doesn't seem to be an appreciable difference in hem width over the years, at least between these two pairs of SDA jeans. The bottom photo shows a worn and washed pair of XXX-28 on the bottom and a raw pair of XXX-28 on top. As b_F suggests, the hems are narrow but the XXX-28 still seems to produce nice roping as shown on the bottom pair. The XXX-28 jeans are, I believe, Zim cotton whereas the D1728 are a combination of Supima and Giza cotton while the Suvin Gold jeans are still different cotton. I don't know, but maybe the roping will also vary somewhat depending on cotton? b_F, are the hems of the two pairs you have referenced narrower still than the ones pictured?

 

 

Edited August 31, 2018 by lance

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks Lance! Nice comparison and great roping on the XXX-28!

I would have to measure the hems for an objective judgement

[lance]

Haha, get out the micrometer b_F 

Edited September 1, 2018 by lance

[Maynard Friedman]

The narrowest hems I think I had were on some Skull 5000 anniversary editions (I think that was the model), which I sold without wearing.

[Foxy2]

got the G-001 yesterday and the hem was around 11-12mm (raw) - put them in the washing machine for 40C cycle with dry tumbling for 30min - drying and airing out right now.

will measure and check roping of the hem this weekend and compare to some of my other SDA pairs that I have here in Moscow...

 

Edited August 31, 2018 by Foxy2

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The hem on my Suvin Gold D1755 I currently wear is between 7 and 8 mm (washed, but I don't think that it changed much with shrinkage).
So that's between 0.28-0.31" and while there is a sign of roping it's way way less pronounced and developed as on let's say OOE or TCB.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Anyone from Sufu pre-orderd the Fox Cotton models?!

[Foxy2]

Nope...

too much taper - the jackets and the sweatshirt look tempting, though.

Edited September 1, 2018 by Foxy2

[beautiful_FrEaK]

They share the 108 cut I think? It's really very modern and tapered. Maybe a slim straight cut like the G-002 has might have been better.

I only owned one SDA sweater and the cut wasn't very flattering...

[Thanks_M8]

On 29.8.2018 at 7:55 PM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Anyone find the hems of SDA jeans too narrow? The hems of my Suvin Gold and G-002 are so narrow, there is nearly no roping effect because of this. 

It's still very narrow on the 108 but at least it there is the roping effect. 

Sorry to come late to the discussion, just my 2 cents:

I think it's true in some parts and depends on many factors, as has been said.
Seen on the attached images.
https://imgur.com/a/qbSEA0W

On top are a pair of 202s I got off of ebay about a year ago, bottom are the overdyed mystery 102. Both worn and washed about a similar amount, and as one can see the hems on the 102s "want" to develop roping but seem to be too narrow, while the hems on the 202s are just wide enough to develop nice roping.
I saw the same thing on the hems of my Ironhearts. Narrow hem and heavy denim => not enough room to develop roping, I think. 
Also, bonus pic of the 202s and 102 in comparison, both worn about 3 months maybe and washed quite frequently.

[Foxy2]

Here are the G-001’s at the bottom - FC and RMcC above. The hem is more narrow compared to FC.

[Foxy2]

A random bunch of SDA’s and their hem jobs...the Osaka Special pair should sport an aftermarket hem job...

[Foxy2]

...and now with the most recent G-001 on top.

[swiss-jeansfreak]

Superb collection Foxy2!!!!!!!

[Daf123]

My SD-107 worn effectively for around ten months and washed a lot

Really sad because they don't fit me anymore and there's still a lot of life left in them.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Very nice! SdA is currently my go-to-brand

[Mongmeohotdau814]

I see you in every brand @@ !, so which brand do you like most? b_freak ?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Life is too short to only like one brand the most

Edited September 4, 2018 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Mongmeohotdau814]

hahaa, ok. you're right

[Maynard Friedman]

b_F is a total denim whore, he has all kinds of brands fighting for the attention of his legs!

[swiss-jeansfreak]

3 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

b_F is a total denim whore, he has all kinds of brands fighting for the attention of his legs!

Fully agree, I admire  Tilmann's incredible raw denim knowledge specially on Samurai and many other raw denim brands!!!!!

[Thanks_M8]

On 4.9.2018 at 1:56 PM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Very nice! SdA is currently my go-to-brand

The same with me  
@Foxy2 seems like the RMCs have the narrowest hem?

[JDelage]

New shirt day. This is the ‘hickory railroad’ model, and it’s awesome... I love the buttons.

[Foxy2]

14 hours ago, Thanks_M8 said:

The same with me  
@Foxy2 seems like the RMCs have the narrowest hem?

I think they both operate with the original folder on their Union Specials (or exact folder replicas) in regards to hem size and stitch/seam position (on the hem fold).

the thickness of the denim and degree of shrinkage will also impact the the bulkiness and size of the hem...

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Some time ago, SdA had a lot of models with a lining at the yoke (and Momotaro does this, too, from time to time). Has anyone noticed that the lining has an effect on the shrinking and stretching of the fabric?
Especially, if the used fabric is sanforized would it hinder the yoke denim part to shrink? This shouldn't affect the shrinkage of the waistband though?

@Foxy2 I'm quite positive you would know the answer