MISTER FREEDOM

[Turntabloid]

Yes, the sleeves are too short for me (yet I don't blaim MF, that is the case for most clothes I own),,,

this has to be a size issue, because both L and XL are relatively long in the sleeves compared to other chambrays.

actually, my XL sleeve is as long as the sleeves of my business shirts with extra long sleeve.

there is really no 'vintage' shirt so far, which fits as perfect as these beautiful pieces.

[zissou]

Yes, the sleeves are too short for me (yet I don't blaim MF, that is the case for most clothes I own),,,

I'm fairly tall and slim like you, and I don't seem to have a problem with finding other button down shirts with sleeves that are long enough. But it's been impossible to find a chambray that fits well- probably just a reflection of how they fit historically. I'm planning on having one custom made.

MF chambray + shore vest + MF jeans + Barbour

Just when I thought you couldn't do any better... perfect!

this has to be a size issue, because both L and XL are relatively long in the sleeves compared to other chambrays.

I would have been a M, but it just wasn't going to work out.

[rocco]

I'm fairly tall and slim like you, and I don't seem to have a problem with finding other button down shirts with sleeves that are long enough. But it's been impossible to find a chambray that fits well- probably just a reflection of how they fit historically. I'm planning on having one custom made..

I have an APC chambray of a few seasons back with relatively long sleeves. But the sleeves of my Buzz Rickson chambray are on the edge of tolerability lengthwise, that's true. Great shirt though

[PETEROCK1]

20's to 60's.., mostly 40's and 50's from what it looks like to me.

Leather jacket, a mechanic's crewneck, an insanely cool chambray (like you'd expect anything less..), and more.

i want to see pics!

[glimmertwins]

i want to see pics!

+100

...I'm excited by the speculation more so than anything else I have heard of recently .

[therelativity]

Thank you guys for the sleeves advice. I love the shirt and will order a blue one

[xcoalesce]

cross post in denim evolution thread (http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showpost.php?p=1798304&postcount=15422)

mister freedom cpo - 1st time washing it after wearing for ~2.5 months all day everyday

click to enlarge (50%)

[photo]

Wow thats great xcoalesce. Hopefully not to tough to wear as a shirt in LA

[xcoalesce]

ha its gettin hot but im doing good with it in la

[beatle]

cool**********************

[Charlie Delta]

PS-09md

Pants, denim, shore (modified)

I'll have to admit that I too, wasn't completely sure about these when I first saw them, but I'm very glad that I decided to give them a try anyway.

Made out of the same lovely white selvedge 11oz 301 "Okinawa" denim that the Liberty Issue CPO is made out of, they make for a very nice and light pair of summer pants.

Sizing, soaking and shrinkage:

I took a 32, in comparison my 7161's are a 34 and a roomy fit, my 7163's a nice and relaxed 33 and my 7161md's a 32 for a slimmer fit. I wanted these to fit on the slim side and since the lace-up back allows for some playing with how they fit I'd figure I'd just go for a 32 again.

They are a little on the short side on me, but that's a reoccurring theme for me (6,3) and I can deal with it, I actually think it looks great with these as they're summer jeans for me anyway.

Soaked these with the hottest water from the tap and line dried them.

They were worn for about a week before I took these pics as they're in rotation with some other jeans.

On to the pictures,

Front:

Back:

(note the added back pockets, more about those later)

Fit pics:

I really like the slim fit with a slight anti-fit seat but with a fitted top block as opposed to the hipflare normally associated with an anti-fit seat.

Personally I think the pattern cutting on these is amazing, especially considering how little seams they have. The legs are full wrap-around (so no outseam!) and have a selvedge inseam.

Inseam

Inside seat

Inside front, using chambray for the pocketbags and lining.

cont'd next post

[Charlie Delta]

Denim close up

Buttons are the same anchor ones also used on the CPO

This shows the interesting stitching on the side quite well, as well as the side pocket (I'm thinking of stitching down the corners of the side pocket to make them stick out a little less)

front pocket selvedge

selvedge beltloops

Christophe hand stained the side and lace-up back eyelets on this pair indigo, making them blend in at first, but as the colour will fade they will eventually stand out again

inside stamp (note that the inside of the eyelets is still white)

the leg label, with some custom markings

[Charlie Delta]

On the "US Only" modification Mister Freedom used left over scraps of SC denim, and I was lucky enough to get some Edo-Ai denim on the left pocket and the regular green id 301 Okinawa on the right.

The backpockets are different sized and an interesting shape.

Right backpocket selvedge

Lace-up back with indigo dyed tape and custom indigo dyed eyelets again with the inside left white, you can also already see some fading on the bottom start looking stitch.

Selvedge galore on both the denim and the chambray!

[zissou]

Great as usual, cotton! I like them with the indigo stained eyelets.

And thanks for the photos, xcoalesce. I'm looking forward to my utility shirt fading a bit.

[Charlie Delta]

I figured it'd be nice to compare the new SC Edo-Ai (Sugar Cane's natural indigo fabric) on the custom backpocket of my PS-09md's with the almost 400 days of wear on the Edo-Ai knee patch on my 7161's.

Quite the evolution:

[Charlie Delta]

Jacket, Denim, White, Shore

Oh mannn, where to begin,

If I ever had the perfect summer jacket...

This jacket is so fantastically understated!

Sizing, soaking and shrinkage:

I took this in a Medium, and I normally get MF stuff in a raw Large, remembering that a Raw large shrinks down to the exact measurements of a raw unsoaked medium, I figured since this denim was sanforized I needed a Medium to get the desired slim fit I wanted.

Even though the fabric is sanforized I still decided to hot soak and line dry the jacket, just to be sure but also because I really like the process of soaking and wearing something damp, and to make sure the denim had that extra "pop" we saw earlier in the thread on Zissou's jacket. I just soaked it in the tub for about 30 mins in the hottest water from the tap.

I'd say it shrank a tiny bit, but nothing to be worried about and also I'm guessing it'll easily stretch back out again, it did make it a lot less stiff and drape nicer, which is good!

I think I managed to achieve the perfect fit with this, I wanted it to fit slim enough for me to easily pop the vest over but still roomy enough to fit a couple of layers under it comfortably. And it even works with the vest under it no problem, perfectly concealing it without looking bulky at all.

(here worn with just the chambray and a tshirt underneath)

(please also note my just washed, 6months worn & worked-in 7163's which are well on their way to becoming truly amazing imho)

Chambray wind/sand guard

Here you can see the chambray inner pocket as well as the button rings, solid indigo selvedge, indigo side eyelets and the interesting way the pocket is attached

[Charlie Delta]

Different vintage brass buttons

This one is nice as it's dark while all the other ones are fairly "gold-ish"

The manufacturers label under the flap of the right pocket and yet another brass button, this one a little green-ish from age...

(note that there is some blue-ish on the left edge of the pocket, this is not actual wear/fading but it's the indigo from the denim vest rubbing against the pocket while layered.)

Chest pocket chambray close-up

Now, the white denim, as I've expressed before, is TRULY something else.

Not only is it an interesting concept, reversing the indigo from the warp to the weft, the denim by itself is already very pretty, a very nice irregular, quite open weave with lots of character. (And it gets even better after a soak!)

I've talked with Christophe about it and eventhough he came up with it and Sugar Cane developed the denim specifically for him he also doesn't really have a clue on how it will fade, logically nothing much will happen though, apart from the blue overall getting lighter and the white simply getting dirtier. It'll be interesting to see what happens when holes develop though, since then the indigo weft would be in full sight all of the sudden.

Also interesting to note is that the white warp is actually un-dyed/bleached cotton, so the natural colour, it just looks superwhite because of the contrast with the indigo.

Solid indigo selvedge and the backside, which strangely enough, looks just like normal denim.

More backside and the "NOT FOR DECK DUTY USE" stencil

But perhaps my favorite feature of the denim is the fact that from a distance it doesn't look bright white but more of a creamy white/baby blue due to the fuzz from the indigo weft popping through the warp (excuse the big pic but I simply had to):

[Turntabloid]

congrats cotton. i especially like how the jacket looks on you!

[zissou]

Cotton, don't you just love the denim and drape of the shore jacket after a soak? I know what you mean about it being the perfect summer jacket. I actually feel like it keeps me cooler when I wear it. Not sure if it's the white denim or the loose weave or both. Great fit on yours. What size did you go with- L? I am a tad smaller than you are and went with a M. it fits me so well.

[Turntabloid]

Cotton, don't you just love the denim and drape of the shore jacket after a soak? I know what you mean about it being the perfect summer jacket. I actually feel like it keeps me cooler when I wear it. Not sure if it's the white denim or the loose weave or both. Great fit on yours. What size did you go with- L? I am a tad smaller than you are and went with a M. it fits me so well.

he went with a medium for a slim look.

[zissou]

^ah, right!

[Charlie Delta]

Heh, yea I forgot that in my post, I edited it accordingly.

But indeed I took a Medium, as I wanted it to look slimmer than most of the pics I had seen on here so far.

[tweeds]

Personally I think the pattern cutting on these is amazing, especially considering how little seams they have. The legs are full wrap-around (so no outseam!) and have a selvedge inseam.

don't recall if ever asked, but who does the patternmaking for the MFSC line, christophe or the SC in-house? this is with regards to the more complex pants especially with that one-piece leg that he's been doing...

great pics all in all, coalesce and ducky.

possible MF archival material in 10 years' time, put a book out or something.

[Charlie Delta]

Vest, Denim, Signal

I've been interested in this vest ever since I saw Christophe working on it in LA last Oct, and after seeing the final sample at the SC showroom in Tokyo in Nov. I knew I wanted it for sure!

Have been wearing it every single day since it was damp enough to put it on.

I like to drag alot of shit around with me wherever I go and I normally have a bag for that but this vest actually allows me to leave my bag at home on "lighter" days, without looking bulky at all.

It currently always holds: camera, iPhone, blinkey's/bicycle lights, lip balm, toothpicks, headset & candy. But I've also used the bigger inner pockets to bring folded up clean underwear and tshirt with me, note/sketch books, etc etc. = Utility Vest!

Sizing, soaking and shrinkage:

I took a raw Large, which is the same size as my CPO and chambray.

Gave it the same threatment as the above items, hot soak in the tub with the hottest water possible, and a line dry afterwards.

The denim is the same as the jeans and CPO, a 11oz, solid white selvedge SC301 "Okinawa", with the exception of the two chest pockets which are the same white selvedge Okinawa but in a 14oz.

Initially I thought the body was also 14oz. as it feels a lot heavier than just 11oz, but I figured that it the fact it feels heavier mainly has to do with the vest being far more "structured" than the CPO or the jeans, ie. there is so much going on in terms of seams, pockets etc, on a much smaller surface so the denim doesn't really get the chance to feel thin-ish or "floppy". If that makes sense.

You can see that the batch of denim from which the 14 oz. chest pockets were cut was a slight bit darker than the rest of the vest.

The "survival raft" twill lining shrank less than the denim lengthwise, that "excess" fabric needs to go somewhere and as such it pushes the edge of the denim on the bottom up. I really like this little hint of orangy-yellow peeking from underneath the denim!

Fit pics:

Inside:

I was wondering why the front part also wasn't lined in the yellow twill but Christophe explained that this would have been too hard to handle during construction, with just too many layers making sewing not so pleasant.

I actually quite like it as now, everytime I reach into one of the inner pocket I get a glance of the lovely slubby backside of that 301 denim!

This must've made the people in the cutting room very happy (10), as it clearly shows that the inside of the collar all the way down to the bottom front of the vest is one single piece of denim!!! CRAZY!

Back with the collar up and you can see guest appearances from both the white denim and the indigo dyed tape.

Single stitching throughout the vest means that seams such as this one need three passes with a machine.

Neck stamped markings. Added my name and the date I started wearing it. (denim came out too blue on this pic)

[Charlie Delta]

Lovely "13-star" buttons

A look at the lower pockets, lined with chambray. As you already can see a bit the selvedge edge of the pocket folds in with use (as it also does on the 7161 side pocket) making it less "flashy".

Not the best picture ever but it shows the differences between the 11oz. and 14oz. Okinawa denim.

Some macro, rivet action!

And the backside of one of the rivets, but more importantly, the denim. So much character!

A close up of the "survival raft" yellow coated lining and some super slight hints at some wear on it already.

Inside pockets, selvedge overkill and Conmatic zippers for which I made some thick leather zipper-pulls.

Also the woven name label and the manufacturers label.

So much space!

Conmatic, USA

And another look at my zipper-pull. While the zippers were somewhat hard to open and close at first they now "whiz" back and forth after simply applying some graphite with a 2B pencil!

[zissou]

Fantastic posts, cotton. All your vest photos are making me regret not getting one. I mostly thought the length would be way too short, but it looks great on you.

[Charlie Delta]

Thanks, I should probably also put up some fit pics with the vest open and shirts untucked and all. Will see what I can do...

[glimmertwins]

Wow - this thread just got 10x more drool worthy. Nice pics - thanks for posting those!

[beatle]

ah****can´t wait to finally wear mine******

[therelativity]

Cotton....wow, you've got your name stamped and the leather zipper-pull....Look amazing....