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What are your favorite jeans?


JohnM

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If you're anything like me, searching for that grail pair of jeans can involve a lot of time and money.  While the journey is as much fun as the destination, I'm happy to have found a few pairs that stand out and make it all worthwhile.  Here they are:

#1  Ooe Yofokuten OA02 -- my overall favorite and best fitting pair

#2  Fullcount 1101 -- most comfortable, softest fabric, the ones I reach for on a lazy Saturday morning

#3  Warehouse 1105 -- great fit; simple, classic lines

#4  Roy (various) -- beautiful detailing and stitching

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Well apparently I was asked by Maynard what my top 5 were back in 2012 and I forgot to reply, so I'm game on this one!

1) OA01XX: Perfect rise on my potbelly chicken legs, the seat area is just perfect as well, with the right amount of old school taper for that 40's fit cuffed at the bottom. Any fabric in this cut will do, and I can't say I've found anything more comfortable, other than....

2) OA02XX: Same deal as the 01 cut; Perfect rise, waist, and seat for comfort, but a stronger taper for a more modern clean look. What's not to like?

Currently, that's it! Would've mentioned some iteration of Warehouse 1000/1001XX but at maximum shrinkage, the rise and waist on both are a little constricting on me personally. I'm hoping the TCB contest pair will also do it for me, given the looser 20's cut, but it'll be entirely rise/waist dependent. Would like to try the FC 1101 at some point too, as I suspect it'd also work, but have been so stuck on Ooe comfort the past 4-5 years I haven't had a reason to try anything else :/

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1. TCB 50s

2. FCxSignet 0105ph

3. FC1101 13.75oz

I wouldn't be surprised if the 20s contest jeans make it into this list- loved the fit of the world tour jean and those were one size too big so I'm eager for a pair thats my size. 

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All these FC1101 comments are making me sad..! I want to break them in so bad but I tend to wear them the least since the top block stretches out and gets really saggy. But while I'm here I might as well chime in with TCB 50s. Best fit, love the texture.

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If I pick just one, it's Samurai S510.

I have the 15th Anniversary S510XX25oz GA in 34 and the 16th Anniversary S510OG 16oz AK in 33. They get the "most things" right in one pair - fit, proportion, construction, details, belt loops, pockets, etc. My main gripe is the cotton thread, as it breaks easily. 

I especially like the proportion of waist-to-hip-to-thigh. The hips and thighs are a larger proportion that most other cuts which works for my build. The rise isn't so high that they feel like dad jeans with diaper butt. 

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Hmmm, tricky with over 30 pairs to choose from but the following are faves/go to's :

1) Fullcount 0105xx - a cracking all round straight cut (and the WW2 versions)

2) Fullcount 1101xx- same as above but with a subtle taper

3) Evisu 2000 No.1- amazing denim

4) Warehouse DD1003XX (1943 and 1945 versions) Recent purchases and I love them already- similar to the Fullcount 0105 in terms of fit but the denim is very neppy and full of character

5) Eternal 811- the cut is a classic straight and the denim is so so dark when new

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I come back into denim from a long (approx. 20 year) stint in nothing but Dickies. Dickies are, to this day, old-style chinos: very high waist, relaxed fit, very straight legs. That's what feels right on me, so getting back into jeans took some getting used to. As such, my absolute favorite all-time jeans are high-waisted, a bit (or even a lot) relaxed-legged, and usually cinch-back styles: basically, mostly things in the pre-war style. The higher the waist the better. These fit me better than anything else, because I have an extremely high waist that is drawn in from my hips ("hourglass" shape). The high rises on these cuts get closer to my natural waist than most cuts, and a cinch back allows me to draw the waistline in above the hips, the way I need. Besides, these general styles just look great to me, both in and of themselves, and in the way the high waist flatters the male body. 

Some of my favorite pairs that I own are:

1. Lee Japan Buddy, denim - high waisted dungaree with no belt loops, just rear snap cinches, and slash pockets. Technically, these aren't jeans. They're a dungaree cut, just made of denim. I love the relaxed fit, the clean look without belt loops, the GIGANTIC front tack button, and the really ergonomic slash pockets compared to a true "jeans" cut. I also have two pairs of the gray heavyweight cotton twill version of these (which does have belt loops).

2. Lee Japan Archives 1936 101B. Historically-based repro. High waisted, belt loops and buckle back, dark brown "Hair-on-the-Hide" patch.

3. Carhartt Loggers in raw denim. Great fit, nice color, great style, and they have slots for knee pads (which I take advantage of with USGI neoprene rubber pads – a bit sweaty in the knees when it's hot out, but worth it when working). I want to get a pair in black canvas as well.

4. Wrangler 31MWZ, rigid. The closest to a pre-war-esque fit that you can get in a Wrangler jean (though without a buckle back, of course). High-ish waisted (but not super high like I prefer), with a slight hourglass fit (waist a bit narrower than hips).

I hope to put my incoming LVC 1944's and 1915's on this list.

And then, quite the other direction:

5. I love my pair of slightly downsized black Wrangler 936's. Great fit, for when I want to wear a tight pair of jeans.

Edited by 428CJ
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