Shoes that look better with age...

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[rirawin]

Dr Sole has finished another two pairs of my boots...

 

Vibram sierra sole

 

 

 

Vibram ripple sole

 

 

http://originaldrsole.tumblr.com/

 

He also re-stitched all the midsoles on my boots for "better durability and ease for resoling in the future." 

[SLAB]

I've noticed some Russell Moccasin boots don't have any stitching around the welt area; are these just glued on? what are the consequences of this when having them resoled? is it possible to change them to a stitched sole?

[edmond]

what slab? specific model?

[HGS]

That vibram ripple sole is so cool.  Looks a bunch of shark fins, don't go in the water

[wgmds]

 

 

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and fresh [in] the box

 

Edited December 17, 2014 by wgmds

[fre-co]

I've noticed some Russell Moccasin boots don't have any stitching around the welt area; are these just glued on? what are the consequences of this when having them resoled? is it possible to change them to a stitched sole?

The outsole is glued on in those cases. My sporting clay chukkas with a wedge sole are like this. I asked Russell the same thing and it cannot be changed over for a stitched sole.

Isn't any wedge sole just glued on anyway?

[edmond]

id you have wedge sole or unit soles on yer boots thats all it can be resoled with unless you change the welt and the midsole etc..

[tod]

Fella's, while I've got your ears... what's the general opinion about the quality of three major mid-range North American shoe makers - Chippewa (Originals), Redwing (Heritage), and Wolverine (1000 Mile) (yes I know there are many others too). Not really interested in their work boot lines... What I see most written is Chippewa is at the bottom, and Redwing and Wolverine tend to be regarded as better boots. There are certain aspects of all three that appeal to me, and certain aspects that don't. I don't like RW's toe buldge; I don't like RW's and Chip's synthetic soles. I really like the look of Chip's 1901 service boot. I think Chip tends to cut some corners and use cheaper leathers; and some lines are made in China, but those don't count. There are just not enough things about the 1000 Mile boots that ever got me interested enough to get a pair. 

 

Synthetic soles, IMO, are the first place a boot maker is going to cut costs. A material like Texon on the Chip's is much less expensive than full leather with a rubber outsole. Getting a pair of their boots properly resoled is more expensive than the actual cost of the boot itself (Brian is currently resoling a pair for me now - can't wait!!!) 

 

Love to hear some thoughts, and insights as to how they're made, leathers, over quality, etc. Thanks fella's. mpp

 

I've talked before about the pair of pre-Katahdin Chippewa engineer boots that I wore regularly for over 10 years -- great boots in every way.  The current Katahdin cap toes look just the same as my old ones in the pictures, so I assume they are of a similar hardwearing nature.  though the plain toes posted in the link above look differnet, both with regard to the leather and (perhaps) the last.  The cap toe's I had were definitely "Munson-like" if not genuine Munson.  The classic Munson, with the extra toe room, fits me just right, and so did the Chippewas.  The leather is a matte, oiled leather that does not look like much at first, but after two years or so it started really looking great.  I think I posted pics above somewhere in the thread...

[exaptavist]

. 

Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[fre-co]

^But you can have a leather midsole and a Goodyear stitched outsole on Russell moccasin if you choose

[Orbitfish]

Those custom munson boots are exactly what I am on then hunt for at the moment Hoggreaser, was it much trouble to get them made up?

 

On a side note are modern military boots still made on a munson last?

[johanhej]

I'm sorry for chiming in with this here, but didn't know where to ask.

 

I bought some Red Wings recently. More specifically a pair of Cigar Beckmans and a pair of black Harvester. The Harvesters are my favorite I'd say. Only worn them a couple of times though. I've had a pair of Iron Rangers before which fitted great aside from being slightly short.

 

The Beckmans I have worn some though, but never in rainy weather. An issue I'm having though is that these are freaking hard in the leather, and they are hurting my left feet on the bone right next to smallest toe. Today I woke up and foot is all blue and swollen in this area.

 

Is there any way I can wear them out in this area?

I've been thinking about taking them for a walk in the snow and letting the moisture help with stretching. However, it's still autumm weather here in Sweden, and no snow to be seen. I've also been considering taking them to a cobbler.

 

I'll post some pictures later if you are interested. I think the harvesters are EU exclusive. It's really too bad cause Red Wing really hit the sweetspot with these I think.

Edited December 20, 2014 by johanhej

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Orbitfish]

Not entirely certain but I think modern military boots long abandoned the Munson last. Phased out at some point post late '70s? Not sure. 

 

Regarding the custom boots - I'll pm you in a bit. Just off out..

That would be co, cheers!

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[SLAB]

thanks for clearing that up hogg and fre-co.

[integra]

I'm sorry for chiming in with this here, but didn't know where to ask.

 

I bought some Red Wings recently. More specifically a pair of Cigar Beckmans and a pair of black Harvester. The Harvesters are my favorite I'd say. Only worn them a couple of times though. I've had a pair of Iron Rangers before which fitted great aside from being slightly short.

 

The Beckmans I have worn some though, but never in rainy weather. An issue I'm having though is that these are freaking hard in the leather, and they are hurting my left feet on the bone right next to smallest toe. Today I woke up and foot is all blue and swollen in this area.

 

Is there any way I can wear them out in this area?

 

A decent cobbler can stretch the leather in the problematic area.

[indigoeagle]

Love these boots.

Letting go of this pair, though, as they're too small.

 

[NNNN]

Those look great. They look a lot better after some wear (apparently) than they do in person. I wish more boot makers would offer monkey boots...they'd be pretty high on my list.

 

[mpukas]

Some random ramblings... 

 

Red Wings now does the Iron Ranger in EE width. YAY! I'd consider these and have RW resole them with the leather sole-stacked leather heel-commando half sole they use on the Beckman Chelsea. J. Crew jumped on that already, but I don't like their color, and they don't offer it in wide. NOT a fan of J. Crew anything... just because... 

 

I was in Boulder, CO end of last week, and stopped in the local RW store. There was a semi-crusty semi-retired senior gentleman working the store part-time. I asked to try on some IR. When I took off my White's, he looked at them as exclaimed "WHAT ON EARTH ARE THOSE???!!!". 

 

Anyway, nice guy, helpful, he measured my foot. No one has ever measured my foot on a Brannock properly. I discovered my length is 9 (always new that) but the arch and ball of my foot are a 10 (long, high arch, short toes). E width (knew that). I've always had problems getting shoes to fit right. He fit me in a 10 Beckman, and they looked like clown shoes to me. Too big. 9 in IR was way too small, way too narrow. 9.5 IR was a decent fit, but narrow. I suspect 9.5 EE would be ideal. 

 

The Man said w/ RW boots it's more important to have the ball of your foot where the boot breaks, and not worry if the length is too long. There should also be about 1 inch or less between the upper quarters when laced; if it's more then they are too small. 

 

I had a pair of Beckman Black Cherry Featherstone in a 8.5 some years ago, and they were way too small in width and upper cuff. Most uncomfortable boots I've ever had. Sold them. Wish I had the proper size, as I do like the looks. 

[mpukas]

Re: my earlier inquiry about Chippewa v Red Wing v Wolverine, I have some new thoughts... 

 

I purchased a pair of Chippewa 1901 6" Service Boot in Crazy Horse. I was curious. Once received, I'm on the fence. They are a very nice looking, very simple clean boots. Medium weight, mid-duty. The Vibram Texon sole (or whatever it is) is crap. The full 360 Goodyear welt is done very well and solid. All stitching is clean and neat. 

 

The leather, however, is rather unimpressive. It's a bit thin. Not exactly cheap feeling/looking, but not a very high quality leather. Maybe on the Black Odessa or Cordovan (color only) it's a better leather. I recently also bought a pair of Chip 1901 engineer boots in Cordovan (at Brian getting a re-sole), and that leather seems much higher quality. Not sure if that same leather is used on the 1901 Service boot. If it is, it's a better option than the Crazy Horse. 

 

The leather on the RWIR is much, much nicer. It's thicker, looks better, looks like it's tanned better. RW has the advantage of having their own tannery, using the best hides for themselves and selling of lesser quality to other boot makers (prolly like Chippewa). 

 

I do like the 1901 6" service boot, but not sure I like them enough to keep them. May be returning. May go for the RWIR in wide and get a resole at RW factory...

 

Besides RW leather being better, I think both are comparable re: quality of construction. 

 

just looking for a simple pair of every day boots that aren't so rugged and heavy as my White's. But I don't think anything will ever be as comfortable. 

 

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Edited December 22, 2014 by mpukas

[Segovia]

Just got these today and figured I'd share some pictures. They are the Iron Heart/Wesco 1930's makeup. They are essentially a 11" Boss with the Motorcycle Patrol toe, triple stitching, and nicer custom roller buckles in brown domain leather. The sole is a Vibram 700.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are a few more pictures at this link. Didn't wanna drop too many giant pictures in here.

 

http://imgur.com/a/3xfVr#RkrfyKZ

 

[mpukas]

Recently gave my White's SJ's a little love w/ Obenauf's. (apologies for the CRAP pics, indoors at night w/ cell phone). 

 

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[shredwin_206]

Wow the Obenauf's sure did darken them up. Will they lighten back up over time??

[mpukas]

They haven't lightened up yet, and it's been about two weeks +/-. I put a heavy coat on... 

 

When they were new, I gave them a light coat of Hubard's. It made them dark, like the pics above, but then after a few days they lightened back to the original color. 

[Segovia]

It's been my experience that Obenauf HDLP doesn't lighten up much at all. I put some on a pair of Red Wing IR's over a year ago and they're still pretty dark from it.

[shredwin_206]

I have these Danner x Tanner Goods Lowsndales. Love them, but the odd color difference between the two has always bugged me. These are CXL and after talking to a few leather working buddies they said that the boots were probably cut from two different hides. They said to treat them with some Obenauf's and that should help balance out the color a bit, but will also darken them considerably. 

-Edwin

 

[Vanquish Gold]

O man I have been searching for these in the right size... your evolution just tells me that I should search harder! Beautiful pair of mountain boots!