Levi's Vintage Clothing

[grooveholmes]

I'm not so sure. I once had a scan (now lost) of an A&F advertisement from the mid-twenties for a line of smart vests. They were in Tiger, Leopard, and Zebra. Not prints, actual Tiger, Leopard, and Zebra. Poor taste is not a new thing.

Haha nice. I also love browsing SkyMall on long flights. Philip Lim just came out with a rabbit fur iPad case. I don't think taste in that sense is what I'm thinking of. There're plenty of things in the LVC line that I'm not interested in in that regard. It's more the sculpted overblown images of "beautiful" "teens", the overpowering cologne smell, the loud techno/"cool" music that you're innundated with even as you walk by their storefront, etc. Not that they're the epitome of what's wrong with retail, but I'd rather have weird variety over that any day.

Ok barely though. I dont like the idea of mass producing items using actual animal fur.

[setterman]

I am getting a pair of LVCs for a class project but unfortunately I cannot find measurements any where of jeans my size. Does anyone have measurements for either 1955 size 38 or 1937 size 40? If so, please pm me. Thanks

I've got a pair of 55s and 37s both size 38. Will PM you measurements this evening. My 37s are older, and fit a hair smaller than the current ones (according to cultizm).

I know off the top of my head that the 55's waist will shrink down to 38" (starts between 40 and 41" depending on how you measure), but easily stretches out to 39" (and could go further). I'm kinda in between sizes on the 55. I'd like my size 38s an inch smaller in the waist, but wonder if a size 36 would be too small.

The 1937s were listed as TTS on cultizm's website, but when I emailed them recently they said my 643 code 1937s started at 39". They said current 4170 code 1937s would be a half inch bigger in the waist. So, the current size 40 1937 you're looking at should be at least 41 1/2" in the waist, and they don't really shrink hard waist wise. My 37s are right around 38" at the waist (uncinched), and I use most of the cinch to tighten them up when I have them on.

[ColdsnapBryan]

Got a pair of 1967 505s, I really like the cut although you get sorta ripped if you pay MSRP for them; no hidden back rivets, no selvedge pocket, paper patch.

[cheapmuthafukr]

so... wait... you mean that the 67 505s are just like real 505s from 1967 in regards to the details? fuck, youre right, not worth the money at all...

[ColdsnapBryan]

shouldn't it be priced accordingly then?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

well...from what I've seen it IS cheaper than the other models

check here:

http://www.cultizm.com/product_info.php?info=p80_Levi--180-s---Vintage-Clothing-1967-505-Jeans-Rigid.html

http://www.cultizm.com/product_info.php?info=p44_Levi--180-s---Vintage-Clothing-1955-501-Jeans-Rigid.html

[cheapmuthafukr]

i dont get your logic... it should be cheaper because of 4 less rivets and a paper patch? how much do you think those cost? maybe 15 cents per rivet and a dollar for the patch? youre not paying for the materials in any of the jeans, youre paying for the fact that you get a pretty accurate reproduction of a vintage garment. or... its not about the jeans, but the idea behind the jeans.

if youre worried about price, you should just get some sugar canes. they are cheaper and better made, and probably more accurate than lvc.

[attackwithstones]

or go buy a pair of Wranglers from Wal-Mart.

[setterman]

shouldn't it be priced accordingly then?

As BF pointed out, the 67s ARE less expensive, but I'd assume that's because of the denim. Leaving off the 10 cent rivets at the back pockets and using a card rather than a leather patch isn't enough to effect the price in any way. If you feel you're getting screwed by the lack of those details, remember they're a historic reproduction, not a Japanese re imagining where you randomly include various vintage Levis details to hype your brand.

[ThomasK]

Also, the 67 505 is made in Turkey. That should get the price down quite a bit(?).

[setterman]

Also, the 67 505 is made in Turkey. That should get the price down quite a bit(?).

Yeah, totally forgot about that.

[Paul T]

The 505 fabric is also from Kaihara in Japan, as opposed to the US-made Cone for the other post 1901 US-made dry models; altho some people reckon Cone fabric is cheaper to buy than Japanese, I'm not certain given that it's exclusively developed for LVC and they must have short production runs, so I wouldn't be surprised if the Kaihara Sanforized fabric comes in cheaper.

[airfrogusmc]

Paul, didn't you post a while back that Cone has been producing denim for the different years as close to the original specs as possible?

[Paul T]

Paul, didn't you post a while back that Cone has been producing denim for the different years as close to the original specs as possible?

there's some detail in the Visual guide, but every denim is spec'd differently. IN every case the warp yarn is different (don't know about the fill), including the dyeing and the amount & form of slub, and the way it's loomed is different on each model. They have all the original spec's, and can tell you, for example, exactly when spinning technology changed and how that affected the yarns.

What I also find interesting is the way that more current Japanese production - I'm thinking Ooe jeans, or SDA, are getting more similar to the Cone look, whereas previously they went for faster-fading and a more exaggerated slub.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I don't think you can include OOE in this observation as they don't produce their own denim but rather buy what they find on the market and what reflect their image of the right denim. So they are not involved with denim developing.

But you see the trend you mentioned also with Resolute.

@setterman yeah normally it shouldn't make a huge diffrence but you will find that multiple times also with Japanese brands, that their '66 models are cheaper. I don't think it's only the material but also that back pockets with hidden rivtes take longer to attach

[dr.house]

What I also find interesting is the way that more current Japanese production - I'm thinking Ooe jeans, or SDA, are getting more similar to the Cone look, whereas previously they went for faster-fading and a more exaggerated slub.

And I would bet the SDA 203 (american made denim) is made of Conefabric. It looks, feels and fades like LVC...

[Paul T]

I don't think you can include OOE in this observation as they don't produce their own denim but rather buy what they find on the market and what reflect their image of the right denim

very few Japanese makers produce their own denim. Or any other makers for that matter.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

yeah but they develop together with the mills and let produce the denim after their specifications or am I wrong in this point?

[cheapmuthafukr]

someone might get a kick out of this... i know i did

kjCI-ohNOag

[Paul T]

yeah but they develop together with the mills and let produce the denim after their specifications or am I wrong in this point?

Oviously there's a variety, but plenty of manufacturers buy fabrics off the peg, and it's fair to say that the impetus for new finishes normally comes from the mills.

A completely custom fabric would be very expensive to produce for small runs - overall, it's far more likely for a maker to spot a denim they like and either buy it as is, or tweak it - Sanforized or non sanforized, different colour selvage, tinted fill yarn, etc etc.

But of course there's a huge variety, and over time some manufacturers have developed closer relationships, like SC and Nihon Menpu in their early days.

[Happy Hooligan]

what's a "wild west leg?"

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@Paul: Thanks, I know that Samurai switched their mill for producing their LHT denim some times ago (that's the reason the Samurai LHT contest didn't make it). So in this point I think, Samurai is one of those brands that have a closer relation so some mills as the new mill had to produce the denim aftert he same specifications.

I know Flathead have a lot of old fabric machines, dunno if they have also their own looms.

On another topic, which currently available Japanese brand comes close to vintage Levi's in terms of denim and moreso, the fades?

Sometimes I think, Fullcount isn't so far off when I see a well worn pair of them. And in terms of denim weight they are in the same range with their 13,7oz denim (as is some Warehouse denim)

[cheapmuthafukr]

warehouse and sugarcane

[bod]

On another topic, which currently available Japanese brand comes close to vintage Levi's in terms of denim and moreso, the fades?

Sometimes I think, Fullcount isn't so far off when I see a well worn pair of them. And in terms of denim weight they are in the same range with their 13,7oz denim (as is some Warehouse denim)

I've got a pair of Resolute 710 ordered, I can't wait to see how they compare to my LVC 66.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

that sounds interesting Freezie. I think the cut of the Resolute might be a tad more modern but the denim might be close. Looking forward to a real comparison. Where did you order?

[Paul T]

warehouse and sugarcane

I'd add SDA, too, and not just their Cone-made stuff.

Warehouse isn't a literal copy, but captures the feel really well, without having exaggerated fade qualities. Different people get different bits right. I think SC go for a more idealized jean.

Resolute are interesting, altho some of their aesthetic is more 70s than 60s to me. I fancy a 60s style cut, carrot-shaped, worn short liek Hayashi San's, for my next pair, and want something Japanese, but I'm still trying to work out which has the best vibe.

[ranonranonarat]

have you already got something japanese, amassed in that large wooden trunk of yours?

how would you comment on how the warehouse captures the feel well? is that with regards to the cut or the denim? personally from the fades i have seen on warehouse, they seem to have the kind of cracking fading going on which is more typical of japanese denim.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

yeah I also think that Warehouse fades a tad too fast compared to vintage denim?! The end result on the other hand is often great and you can achieve vintage like fades.

haven't seen so much evo pics on the standard SugarCane pairs

[ColdsnapBryan]

Interesting stuff

Also, the 67 505 is made in Turkey. That should get the price down quite a bit(?).

My pair has Made in U.S.A on every tag

[setterman]

On another topic, which currently available Japanese brand comes close to vintage Levi's in terms of denim and moreso, the fades?

Sometimes I think, Fullcount isn't so far off when I see a well worn pair of them. And in terms of denim weight they are in the same range with their 13,7oz denim (as is some Warehouse denim)

I give high marks to Full Count, and second faptronic when it comes to Warehouse and Sugar Cane. I haven't been able to put much time into them (but will start to this winter), but I think the denim in the SC66 is some of the best when it comes to replicating old Levis. Would love to have a pair of LVC 55s or 66s made out of it (or Warehouse 1000XX denim).