Levi's Vintage Clothing

[dunkin deeznuts]

I have a similar conundrum...i bought a pair of 1901s from Dr. Heech.

The inseams are like 36 raw (I'm around a 31 and sticker says they will shrink 3 - 4 inches after soak) and I'm not a fan of huge cuffs so i wanted to get them altered without soaking

I guess i can

1. alter and never soak, just dry clean

2. soak first and lose some (probably alot of dye) and then alter?

3. alter, soak eventually and have peddle pusher jeans....

[setterman]

I have a similar conundrum...i bought a pair of 1901s from Dr. Heech.

The inseams are like 36 raw (I'm around a 31 and sticker says they will shrink 3 - 4 inches after soak) and I'm not a fan of huge cuffs so i wanted to get them altered without soaking

I guess i can

1. alter and never soak, just dry clean

2. soak first and lose some (probably alot of dye) and then alter?

3. alter, soak eventually and have peddle pusher jeans....

Why would soaking cause them to loose a lot of dye? If anything, LVC seems to get darker with an initial soak or wash.

A 36" inseam should shrink down to 33". If it were me I'd do exactly what Levis intended, give 'em two or three trips through the washing machine and then get them hemmed.

[jwsach]

always always always soak first

trust.

[Stratos]

I have a similar conundrum...i bought a pair of 1901s from Dr. Heech.

The inseams are like 36 raw (I'm around a 31 and sticker says they will shrink 3 - 4 inches after soak) and I'm not a fan of huge cuffs so i wanted to get them altered without soaking

I guess i can

1. alter and never soak, just dry clean

2. soak first and lose some (probably alot of dye) and then alter?

3. alter, soak eventually and have peddle pusher jeans....

1: no, don't, eventually they will get wet (rain, sweat...) and shrink anyway

3: that's the silliest thing you could do...

Seems like you're really worried about losing dye. You know: raw jeans do fade over time, that's the whole point. You will not lose too much dye on a first soak, I just shrunk a pretty similar pair of '37's, they're hardly any lighter, just more vibrant indigo. Once shrinkage is complete (a soak and two or three washes on...), you can always have 'm altered. In the mean time,cuff...

[Paul T]

I always hem before soaking because I prefer to keep the roping on the hems, and because I like cuffs, so any minor variation in length is acceptable. But if you intend for no cuffing, then yes, soak hot first, and assume you will lose another 1/2 inch in the length with future washes. Try and get whowever hems them to offset the hems and you'll still get a bit of roping. As setterman says, they'll get darker rather than lighter with a soak.

[dunkin deeznuts]

thanks for feedback guys...will probably just soak and take it from there......

[jewellben]

I always hem before soaking because I prefer to keep the roping on the hems, and because I like cuffs, so any minor variation in length is acceptable. But if you intend for no cuffing, then yes, soak hot first, and assume you will lose another 1/2 inch in the length with future washes. Try and get whowever hems them to offset the hems and you'll still get a bit of roping. As setterman says, they'll get darker rather than lighter with a soak.

Paul - what do you mean by "roping" on the hems?

[stresMaldo]

I'm pretty sure he means that he hems the length first so that when he finally soaks the denim for the first time, the roping on the hem will(eventually) be more pronounced due to the initial shrinking and the tension this causes to the chainstitch.

If you chainstitch and hem them after soaking them, I believe his rationale is is that the roping on the hem length won' be as visible/pronounced.

[Paul T]

Paul - what do you mean by "roping" on the hems?

Have Samurai's, need them hemmed.

I would have to send them away to get chain stitched if I wanted that, otherwise I'll just take them to a local tailor.

Is there a huge difference in quality? Can someone tell me exactly how different the two look? I want to keep my nice selvage look. Someone said something about 'roping' but I dont know what that means.

Thanks, I'd really rather not have to send my jeans back Im low on funds but if its worth it I would i guess.

There's not a huge difference in quality, but there is a big difference in look.

CHainstitching has a distinctive appearance, associated with vintage jeans, and the most common machine also pulls the hem in a certain way. THis is what gives roping as the fabric shrinks. IN addition, a Union Special rolls the hem, rather than folding it, which further helps define the look on most vintage and repro hems.

IN short, the chainstitch has a different look because of the stitch itself, the way the Union Special pulls the hem around, and the fact the hem is rolled.

Getting them shortened by a tailor, especially now they've shrunk somewhat, you won't get roping. It is possible to get decent roping with a conventional lockstitch but you need to know exactly what you're doing. Also, getting them chainstitched after they've shrunk will only give minimal roping.

Roping: pic by ranonranonrat:

and finally for a macro shot of the roping.

And here's roping with a conventional lockstitch: note how he's pulled the hem right round. It's not the same look as a Union Special, but it's a decent approximation.

[stresMaldo]

which reminds me, although this may serve better in the small questions threads, however since we're on the topic...

I remember Mizanation stating in the I'm Having A Pair thread that when you get your jeans chainstitched the hem won't line up perfectly with the selvedge hem, due to the tension from the chainstitcher pulling on the jeans as he chainstitches the denim. Thus, when I received my Double Volante's, as stated, the chainstitch edge was slightly off from where the selvedge hem was.

However, I noticed on both of my pairs that I had chainstitched at Self Edge(prior to soaking) that both hems line up perfectly.

Why is this? Anybody know? Is it just that the denim wasn't pulled enough to see a noticable difference?

I hope I'm making sense in my description. When I get home I can post pics of what I'm talking about...

[tropicalbird]

Chain stitch is overrated. I was first aboard the chainstitching bandwagon, until someone who's into sewing proved me wrong. And he achieved it without artificially pulling whatsoever. As long the denim has some shrink left, roping will occur.

No hate but, Klue isn't the ideal example for denim.

[Paul T]

That makes total sense.

As you hem the jeans, the machine can pull the hem sideways, hence the hems moves - for an exaggerated version, see klue's photo above. This movement contributes to the roping.The Union Special 36400 will tend to do this automatically, but this depends on the operator. As you guessed, sounds like the operator didn't pull the hem on your selfedge pair.

[Paul T]

Chain stitch is overrated. I was first aboard the chainstitching bandwagon, until someone who's into sewing proved me wrong. And he achieved it without artificially pulling whatsoever. As long the denim has some shrink left, roping will occur.

No hate but, Klue isn't the ideal example for denim.

Tell us or show us the proof, then! Good to know you were first on the bandwagon, though.

[Stratos]

Must have been lonely on that bandwagon those first days, respect

[Stratos]

No bids yet for the 'backle backs' btw, seller still not answered my question on the authenticity/dating of the pair.

http://cgi.ebay.com/VTG-ORIGINAL-1922-LEVIS-501XX-BACKLE-BACK-DENIM-JEANS-/320687382604?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item4aaa75204c#ht_500wt_922

[Maynard Friedman]

Chain stitch is overrated. I was first aboard the chainstitching bandwagon, until someone who's into sewing proved me wrong. And he achieved it without artificially pulling whatsoever. As long the denim has some shrink left, roping will occur.

No hate but, Klue isn't the ideal example for denim.

I was driving that bandwagon!

[colgems1966]

wow you must be old to be "first" on the chainstitch band wagon. at least 90-100 yrs. old.

[Stratos]

wow you must be old to be "first" on the chainstitch band wagon. at least 90-100 yrs. old.

Which brings us to the question: when was the band wagon invented and how many people usually ride on one

[tropicalbird]

A typo sry, I meant "at first". Any reference to Klue cracks me up somewhat, made worse by circle jerking.

Anyhow, regarding the chain vs single lockstitch debate, it's been answered already. Sure, to get those extreme roping effect Union is king, but that doesn't mean a normal lockstitch won't do (if there's any shrinkage left that is);

The guy is tight on funds, yet is considering getting an overpriced nostalgia. Poetry at it's best.

[Paul T]

A typo sry, I meant "at first". Any reference to Klue cracks me up somewhat, made worse by circle jerking.

Anyhow, regarding the chain vs single lockstitch debate, it's been answered already. Sure, to get those extreme roping effect Union is king, but that doesn't mean a normal lockstitch won't do (if there's any shrinkage left that is);

The guy is tight on funds, yet is considering getting an overpriced nostalgia. Poetry at it's best.

Which guy?

The query is from Dunkin Deeznuts. He didn't even discuss getting a chainstitch, he knows that the 1901 have a regular hem. No-one's suggested he gets anything different.

[tropicalbird]

Didn't realize frzn quotation was from 2 weeks ago, his funds probably has been drained. Damage done, let's carry on

[Leonard Leroy]

I soaked them. My hips hurt.

[Paul T]

Good luck leonard

No pain = no gain. Or something.

[Leonard Leroy]

they look good that said.

let no word come out that in shrink to fit i have also shrunk my life

I shall post a waywt in these jeans

and perhaps i could have a stf suicide circle come in after me

of people attempting to size down on their 1947s

this is the plot

[Leonard Leroy]

So shall we see good LVC deals on supermarket, many with just a very slight tear at the seam along the fly

[colgems1966]

Which brings us to the question: when was the band wagon invented and how many people usually ride on one

perhaps the history and usage of bandwagons could be the topic of a new PaulT book. i know there has been great interest in bandwagons from years past. R.E.M. even immortalized them in song (on dead letter office)i know i would be interested in learning more.

[Maynard Friedman]

perhaps the history and usage of bandwagons could be the topic of a new PaulT book. i know there has been great interest in bandwagons from years past. R.E.M. even immortalized them in song (on dead letter office)i know i would be interested in learning more.

A close relative of R.E.M's Bandwagon was R.E.O. Speedwagon. I wonder who was first on that...

[Leonard Leroy]

Also the arcuates and the leather are really nice on the 1947

[colgems1966]

A close relative of R.E.M's Bandwagon was R.E.O. Speedwagon. I wonder who was first on that...

i'm not sure; but they probably got on it to ride the storm out

[tropicalbird]

Also the arcuates and the leather are really nice on the 1947

This is not always the case. I've noticed a lot of variances within the same year of production.

e.g Leather thickness and overall quality can be different which is acceptable since we're dealing with a natural material.

Denim itself varies somewhat. One pair might feel heavier/thicker, denser weave than the other. Color however has been very consistent.

Stitching. Can be messy/sloppy, most commonly on the fly area.

Levi's trademark print on the leather patches have a few peculiarities;

On 2 samples, trademark is printed on the patch. The other has an embossed print, grooves can be felt while the others are just flat.