Levi's Vintage Clothing

[Dr_Heech]

I recently took some photos from these three books.

Here's a selection of levis from Boon vol #1 (1995) -

cant see a No 2 on this label (are they 201?)

And PARTYTACO, here's the pic that at first confused me.....

Too much info on tags, labels, patches... etc to list!

This book is loaded with pix and info on Levis, Lee Bluebell/wrangler, early repros (evis, s'dartisan, mccoys, canes etc)- too much to list.

[Dr_Heech]

Here's some pix of the Boon vol #4 (denim jackets) from1996

Early Levis 213..etc

Info on tags..etc.

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[Dr_Heech]

Some from the Gakken book

Hey, Andewall - I found some pix of a pair of 1930's 501xx with the bar-tacking you were enquiring about. Safe to say the 201 may have also had this feature, although from when is anybody's guess? Another dilema for Lynn...

Plus a pair of deadstock 1930's 501xx!

LOads of info on tags/buckles..etc

And pages and pages of pix of worn in vintage .

.

[ThomasK]

Regarding PaulT's post about LVC next year and on, do you think there will be signifiant or noticable changes in e.g. a '47 501?

[Joe E Taleo]

Neither here nor there, but I remembered something that Airfrogusmc wrote a while back (can't seem to find it using supersearch) about how crappy the cinch for LVC1915s are. Well- yeah, what the fuck. I almost can't believe how bad the design is. The denim and the jeans otherwise I'm loving, but the buckle is stupid. I did find a link for river junction, so I'll pick up a buckle there. Should I get the 1", or the 1 1/4"?

[Dr_Heech]

Intresting pix of a 1920's pair of 501XX (you can just see the edge of the beltloop) with flat top rivets and the early suspender buttons, and plain fly buttons.

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[Dr_Heech]

Never seen a pair Of vintage Levis (either image, or actual garment) of the 1941-1944 era (buckleback with no crotch rivet), or 1936-1937 era (exposed rivets/suspender buttons/buckleback) with red tab.

Has anyone here seen either of these two rare models?

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[Paul T]

Will the increase in quality (hopefully), being brought in by the revamped LVC line also be reflected in the apparel line? Will this affect the general quality of everything Levi's has to offer trickling down from the premium lines all the way down to the general offerings they have?

THe changes just apply to the XX group; there will be a new Made and Crafted line, which I haven't looked into too much, but will have a lot of vintage-style aesthetic filtered into modern designs.

Regarding the Cone fabric,, hjj believes that some of this is marketing spiel and it dones't matter where the fabric is made. It's a valid point, but I think most people at Levi's identify with Cone, and see them as a long-term partner - this is being done for emotional as well as business reasons.

One interesting comparison would be to assess how the 1915 holds up long-term against the 1917 or 1901. Overall, most of the people I know associated with Levi's but who don't have an axe to grind are huge fans of Cone, but not necessarily of every one of the denims - some people don't like the 47, personally I prefer the 55, altho those differences might well be exhibited by the original fabric, too.

Essentially, I think LVC have made a decision that Cone embodies their heritage; the two companies have now been closely associated for nearly a century. They have made quite a strong commitment, considering there's been speculation that Cone is going bust for at least a decade now! Ralph THarpe is open about the fact that he selvage business is marginal for them and they don't have enough volume customers since the collapse of the premium market; perhaps by giving them more volume, the XX division are trying to rectify this.

Doug, don't see why there should be big changes in the 47, as that's already made of Cone fabric - the big question is how the early jeans will look.

Airfrog, I forgot about the buckle, I will point that out.

Dr, great pics, especially intriguing about that bar tack. I do covet your Boon book, but I've just ordered the Sea Island Cotton book, can't afford any more denim geekery at the mo.

Last point - anyone lookins for the old 201, they do have the 34 wiaist in stock at American classics.

[prochek]

fit pics 1 dec: 501 - 1978 30/32 (LVC Contest pics)

[Dr_Heech]

The 555 201 in a 34 ????

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[Paul T]

Sorry, should have said, it's the 2007.

They have maybe half a dozen pairs, they thought they had a 33, but couldn't lay their hands on it. If LVC do produce the 201 again, I guess they will be in a different, Cone, fabric.

[entertainment!]

Neither here nor there, but I remembered something that Airfrogusmc wrote a while back (can't seem to find it using supersearch) about how crappy the cinch for LVC1915s are. Well- yeah, what the fuck. I almost can't believe how bad the design is. The denim and the jeans otherwise I'm loving, but the buckle is stupid. I did find a link for river junction, so I'll pick up a buckle there. Should I get the 1", or the 1 1/4"?

You should measure the width of the strap, that is what the size is based on. I think it is 1". Here is a picture of my replacement.

From what I could tell, this is the closest thing River Junction had to the original.

[Doug C]

Paul T wrote:

the ones I've seen have non-selvage fabric that doesn't look particularly interesting. Personally they do nothing for me

mikedbt5 wrote:

Whilst the denim is tough wearing you won't get the fading(as quicklly) as the LVC or other premium denim models , if thats what you want .

I understand that these special edition 1901s are not going to be the fabric used on the LVC versions, but I can't find any details on the denim at all... as in, are they made from the same denim that modern STF 501s are made from - if that's the case then that's not too bad IMHO (after checking out the STF 501 thead). Don't get me wrong I know they can't touch LVC quality but if they could be had for let's say just slightly more than a new pair of STF501s and they used the same denim, then I could be interested. I would definately not cuff though . Too bad Levis felt the need to add the red tab but since we're on the subject of buckles - atleast they did right with the buckle - it's better than the LVC version, no?

[cultpop 0217]

Today I saw an industry expert who told me a little more about what's happening with LVC.

Whatever else happens, I'm looking forward to lots of new intriguing items.

didnt want to quote the whole thing again but great news!

Am I reading into Paul's post that LVC might do some (purposely) non-authentic selvedge jeans. I'd love to be able to buy some Japanese style combinations of vintage elements. For instance a 66 style jean with hidden rivets on the back pockets and decent arcs (I hate 66 arcs but like the cut). I love the vintage repro's and wouldn't want them to go away but I'd really like to see them also treat selvedge jeans like a living, evolving, thing for modern bodies without getting as far out as the Levi Red engineered stuff.

you just described my ideal pair of levis. 66 cut (button fly of course ) hidden rivets, proper arcs. heres hoping.

[airfrogusmc]

You should measure the width of the strap, that is what the size is based on. I think it is 1". Here is a picture of my replacement.

From what I could tell, this is the closest thing River Junction had to the original.

The problem with the LVC buckle is the bar thats under the fabric is not one piece (like originals) so when you clip the bar to make the points theres nothing holding it together. The metal is much better as is the concept almost matches originals with the exception of that split bar that under the fabric. They almost had it but missed it by the much.

[erk]

The problem with the LVC buckle is the bar thats under the fabric is not one piece (like originals) so when you clip the bar to make the points theres nothing holding it together. The metal is much better as is the concept almost matches originals with the exception of that split bar that under the fabric. They almost had it but missed it by the much.

I don't understand how they even did that...its just common sense. It's really quite sad.

[Quills]

Will 1947's stretch back to their pre-soak waist? The ones I just got in fit in the waist just a tad loose and I'm worried they'll shrink far too much if I hot soak them.

[aqhong]

Will 1947's stretch back to their pre-soak waist?

Yes. They can stretch even more than that, in my experience. My 30x34 '47s measured 30" on the dot when I got them, and actually measure 31" now.

[Doug C]

Intresting pix of a 1920's pair of 501XX (you can just see the edge of the beltloop) with flat top rivets and the early suspender buttons, and plain fly buttons.

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Hey drheech, I'm impressed with those books of yours, hopefully can get my hands on 'em too one day. One thing I keep wondering about though - in the picture above you state the jeans are 1920's but within the japanese text directly under this picture it says "1937"... I don't read japanese but can't help thinking that it's refereing to the jeans in the picture. Does it actually state those to be an earlier pair? They're definately an interesting pair of jeans, wish we could have those rivets reproduced (how hard could it be !!??)

[Dr_Heech]

Hey drheech, I'm impressed with those books of yours, hopefully can get my hands on 'em too one day. One thing I keep wondering about though - in the picture above you state the jeans are 1920's but within the japanese text directly under this picture it says "1937"... I don't read japanese but can't help thinking that it's refereing to the jeans in the picture. Does it actually state those to be an earlier pair? They're definately an interesting pair of jeans, wish we could have those rivets reproduced (how hard could it be !!??)

I havent printed all the text in my pics, but In the picture the date is referring to when the suspender buttons disappeared, ie 1937. They're defo 1920's, as I've seen quite a few pairs with these early details (buttons that havent changed design since 1890)

If you go on the Marvins site, He has a few early pairs with the same details.

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[mikedbt5]

Will 1947's stretch back to their pre-soak waist? The ones I just got in fit in the waist just a tad loose and I'm worried they'll shrink far too much if I hot soak them.

If you need to stretch them it is easy - soak the waistband , srtetch it out to the waist size you want then suspend the jeans from a trouser hanger (clips at either side) Clip the waist with a hair clip also and let them dry . I have a pair of w34 which came dry at w33 and I stretched them to my ideal wasit size of w35 .

[phr]

my 47's arrive soon and will be eventaully machine washed. got the same size i get for the cheap stf's which i also machine wash. thinking i could have gotten a 38' inseam but we'll see.

[Paul T]

I have a pair of w34 which came dry at w33 and I stretched them to my ideal wasit size of w35 .

Your true waist size is 35 and you bought raw 33s.

How are your thighs and testicles?

photos?

[cheapmuthafukr]

Your true waist size is 35 and you bought raw 33s.

How are your thighs and testicles?

photos?

why would you want pictures of his thighs and testicles? and to think that youre usually one of the more seroius ones here paul...

[Paul T]

I'm just worried about his reproductive health.

[mikedbt5]

Your true waist size is 35 and you bought raw 33s.

How are your thighs and testicles?

photos?

They are fine (lol) I cold soaked them ( the jeans not my balls !!) then wore them damp which stretched them out . To be honest I never went undersized before so this was something new (and an expensive gamble at £135 to get a raw tagged W34 L32) I'm really pleased how they turned out and as I have short legs they dont look too slim on me . I will add some photos after my tea !!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

was probably a size 34 which just measured 33"

I'm a 34 and bought a 34" which is fine

[mikedbt5]

I'm just worried about his reproductive health.

I have had enough of reproduction - 1 x 21yrs and 1 x 11yrs = to bloody expensive !!!

[Paul T]

HAve you actually washed them?

if I downsize, and it's marginal, the first soak is never a problem, it's the first full wash.

Sorry if I wasn't serious, cheep. Lunchtime drinking.

I have had enough of reproduction - 1 x 21yrs and 1 x 11yrs = to bloody expensive !!!

Ahh, the Roman Catholic church might want to investigate this approach...

anyway, +rep for testicular fortitude.

[mikedbt5]

photos?

I have never considered the 47 slim jeans - my short legs see to that . Thats why I gave sizing down a go . They have only been soaked - I will worry about the 1st watch when I get to that .