BS United Oni Denim Pics

[Blue Nemo]

The tightness of the weave and amount of starch really tricks the mind. My WH 800 with 14 oz feel a lot lighter than my UES at 14,9 oz or my Eternals at 14,5 oz and I blame it on the softness of the denim.

 

that is definitely correct.

 

and for the jacket made of onis secret denim I sincerely hope that the quality is better than on your pair cander! though jackets get less stress than jeans I would say.

 

@Broark: there is a guy at Hinoya who handles all my orders, I write pretty frequent with him as he seems to be a cool and easy guy, he picked out one size M (the best one, so he assured me :-D ) and reserved it for me till the first week of july when I will finally be able to cop them. that made me really happy!

 

regarding the type II & III discussion, the measurements on the type III look so dope (at least for me) and the fit on the models seems so spot on that I go with that one. besides, the two chest/belly pockets on the type II make the jacket always look so boxy.

 

EDIT: it seems oni announced two models, the type II uses their 16.5 oz XXBE denim and the type III uses the 20 oz secret denim. with that info the type III now is def the right pick for me!

Edited June 18, 2015 by Blue Nemo

[samh]

I think that this type of damage to the denim is to be expected from such a strange weave - you can't expect something that slubby and loose to be strong.

[Broark]

And here's the type II: http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/auc-rodeo/item/oni-02517xxbe/

Looks really nice, but again too tiny for me.

My wallet says thanks though.

[Blue Nemo]

they ARE tiny, right? i thought so too. normally i could go with a size 38 in every japanese top, but on these two i think about up-sizing. even though the 38 seems to fit the respective model great to whom i always relate...

[Blue Nemo]

copped the type3 in a 38 today. pictures in two weeks!

[cander49]

3.5 months, just got first wash.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pretty disappointed in these, honestly. Before I got into well-made repro denim (Samurai, PBJ, etc), I owned a few pairs of crappily-made raws (Diesel, Dior) and even those weren't falling apart this quickly. In addition to the ridiculous tearing on the cuff, the crotch and the back of the left knee are both thinning a lot already. Not super impressed...

Edited July 4, 2015 by cander49

[Maynard Friedman]

I've never seen that kind of wear on any jeans in 3.5 months. It's bonkers!

[mpukas]

@Cander - thanks for sharing the pics and your thoughts. for a while I was dead-set on getting a pair of Oni's, but I was always a bit suspicious for reasons I can't quite articulate. The pics of the denim and construction never appeared to me as top-quality. A shame, really, as from what I've read the owner is really into his craft, and the secrecy behind him is intriguing. Maybe this was a sub-standard lot? 

[bradl]

Well in glad I didn't get a pair for work then,that's pretty pathetic

[Blue Nemo]

I don't wanna sound like a fanboy, especially that I haven't handled a pair myself, BUT...

Ah no, I will shut my mouth and see how the jacket holds up.

It's disappointing any way you put it

Edit:

One thing though, neither samurai, nor PBJ and especially not Oni are known for their accurate reproductions, absolutely not :-D that's not what these are about

Edit2:

Can't stop looking at the pictures with dread in my heart.......

Edited July 6, 2015 by Blue Nemo

[Chubacca]

Thanks for your input Cander.  I was debating of either Samurai or Oni for my next pair.  Looks like it'll be Samurai.  

[UkeNo]

That's a shame.

One guys gets damage to his jeans and people are turning off the brand?

That seems a little severe. Granted the fabric hasn't stood up to the treatment as expected but from what I ready they were given a fairly good workout.

I have a pair with the 16.25oz jeans and the fabric, stitching, construction is holding up very well with no signs of damage or defect. Had them 2yrs and worn them a good amount.

I would definitely give ONI the benefit of the doubt in this case.

[Bobbo]

I also had good experience from my pair of Oni's. I only wore them about three months before selling them (making way for less slubby jeans) and they only showed a little bit of wear on top of the slubs, no broken threads or anything. 

 

I wore them while I was studying at uni so they didn't really have a rough time, but Cander's pair is the first time I've seen Onis wrecked like this. 

[cander49]

That's a shame.

One guys gets damage to his jeans and people are turning off the brand?

That seems a little severe. Granted the fabric hasn't stood up to the treatment as expected but from what I ready they were given a fairly good workout.

I have a pair with the 16.25oz jeans and the fabric, stitching, construction is holding up very well with no signs of damage or defect. Had them 2yrs and worn them a good amount.

I would definitely give ONI the benefit of the doubt in this case.

 

I'm active in my jeans, but I was more active in my last pair of jeans (19 oz Samurais). Maybe your 16.25 denim is just better quality than the Secret denim? Honestly, these are by far the lowest quality raw denim I've owned. And, in case anyone thinks I'm trashing my jeans by stepping on the cuff (I'm not), note that the front of the cuff is also torn. After this one experience, I wouldn't buy from them again. Even if mine is just a "bad" pair, it's still pretty inexcusable. Stuff like this doesn't happen to Samurais, Ironhearts, PBJs, etc, anywhere near so quickly. I'm not trying to turn anyone off from them, but if people want something that's definitely going to be durable (kind of the point with these things), I wouldn't recommend them.

[SuperJackle]

This must happen more when the weave is extremely loose. That must be why Cone spent 100 years trying to make their weave tight and regular.

[aquino]

Just got the type III jacket in 42 o/w. Sized up one so that I can comfortably fit a workshirt and or hoodie under it during the colder months. Here are some fit pics, apologies for the quality of the photobooth camera. 

 

 

Here's a better shot of just the jacket

 

 

And a comparison between my 11 month old ONI-527 secret denim.

 

Edited July 6, 2015 by aquino

[mpukas]

This must happen more when the weave is extremely loose. That must be why Cone spent 100 years trying to make their weave tight and regular.

+1 to this

 

I was thinking the same thing - in order to get a super slubby texture, the spinning of the yarns as well as the weaving of the fabric has to be loose and low tension. That is going to produce a fabric with low durability. Add to that cotton thread (just like {enter-your-favorite-brand-here}) that breaks at the first sight of abrasion, and you've got yourself a pair of jeans that won't hold up to rough, active use. 

 

I find the irony rather amusing - Japanese brands are making jeans that are replicas of, and inspired by, originals that were designed to be as durable and last as long as possible, yet their's are designed to fall apart, degrade, and look well worn very quickly (low tension fabric, cotton thread, dyes that do not penetrate to the core of the yarn and fade quickly). In many ways they are vast improvements over the originals (fit, attention to details, quality of construction - that's still a matter of opinion), yet the intention and the target market is completely different. 

[cander49]

I completely agree with the loose weave idea. It's a cool idea, and I'm still glad I bought a pair, as they're unique and interesting - and, quite honestly, the other details are really well done, other than the leather patch, which seems pretty destructable - but this is definitely a once and done pair for me. And hey, if they don't last as long, that just means I get to buy another pair sooner.

[mpukas]

... And hey, if they don't last as long, that just means I get to buy another pair sooner.

Any idea what you'll get next? 

[bradl]

That's a shame.

One guys gets damage to his jeans and people are turning off the brand?

That seems a little severe. Granted the fabric hasn't stood up to the treatment as expected but from what I ready they were given a fairly good workout.

I have a pair with the 16.25oz jeans and the fabric, stitching, construction is holding up very well with no signs of damage or defect. Had them 2yrs and worn them a good amount.

I would definitely give ONI the benefit of the doubt in this case.

I haven't written them off completely, just wouldn't consider getting them as a pair of work pants. I'd be all in for a pair of casual pants 

[Blue Nemo]

11 months and still going strong!

 

it seems the upsizing works good for you aquino

Edited July 7, 2015 by Blue Nemo

[aquino]

Thanks! I am pretty happy with the fit of the type III jacket, it is just right around the shoulders which for me is the hardest part to size. I forgot to add the jeans were repaired through seny at around 10 months for some crotch reinforcement where they were thinning and to sew up the cuff a bit, mostly a preemptive repair. Just part of the upkeep of such unique low tension denim I guess. 

[EdwardBear]

+1 to this

 

I find the irony rather amusing - Japanese brands are making jeans that are replicas of, and inspired by, originals that were designed to be as durable and last as long as possible, yet their's are designed to fall apart, degrade, and look well worn very quickly (low tension fabric, cotton thread, dyes that do not penetrate to the core of the yarn and fade quickly). In many ways they are vast improvements over the originals (fit, attention to details, quality of construction - that's still a matter of opinion), yet the intention and the target market is completely different.

The irony of the irony is continually amusing. People are so focused on the fades, and complain when some of the Japanese brands aren't fading as quick as they like ( they should go buy G-Star instead), yet when they do fade/come apart they complain about durability. Some people worry about washing them, freak out when they get a mark or a crease. They are jeans- and unless they cost the same as an Aston Martin, stop treating/expecting them to perform as such. You think Paul Newman worried about his fades?! Sorry for the rant, it's applicable to any of these SuFu denim threads not towards anyone.

[BlackPig]

The beauty about this forum is people can share their opinions and experiences. I appreciate Cander49's post about his experience - be it a negative one. For mine ONI denim is better than Samurai for durability, fit, texture etc. So that's my experience and opinion.

[Broark]

I think it all just provides some insight, everyone will wear through a pair of jeans differently.

Cander's experience isn't going to stop me from probably getting a pair of Oni jeans down the road at all, but it's definitely interesting to see how quickly he broke in this pair. Kind of like my very early crotch blowout on my Ooe Yofukuten's. I wouldn't say I'm disappointed at all, surprised but I'm still loving the jeans and am going to keep wearing them and I'd definitely recommend them.

I'm also a lot less active than he is, so I should be fine. 

[BlackPig]

My 271xx are faster fader for sure. Great for those less active trying to get fading.

[cander49]

11 months and still going strong!

 

it seems the upsizing works good for you aquino

 

I actually also upsized, fwiw.

[cander49]

Any idea what you'll get next? 

 

I'm thinking about those special edition 24 oz 710s from Samurai that are due in fall. Those ought to last well and I already know that I like the fit.

[cander49]

 

And a comparison between my 11 month old ONI-527 secret denim.

 

Your pair is sick, btw. These look really awesome and inspire me to wear mine into the ground.

[Blue Nemo]

I actually also upsized, fwiw.

 

i meant the jacket :-)