Urban Techwear

[TEKsevenZERO]

SI:SP15/16 First wave: http://www.firmamentberlin.com/brands/stone_island_shadow.html?utm_source=Firmament+Newsletter&utm_campaign=74b4e2cc1a-Firmament_Newsletter_July_IV_7_15_2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_7207df8092-74b4e2cc1a-75773637

[exhaust fumes]

Has Acronym ever made something in XS ? Small is gigantic based on the Measurements.

 

You have some strange concepts of what "gigantic" is.

[Inkinsurgent]

You have some strange concepts of what "gigantic" is.

 

agreed. if anything, acr tops seem to run on the slim side, with the exception of some shell pieces

[DemiGxd]

^ A Size Small is usually not narrower than 53cm which is huge for me. I usually wear a XS-S in Arcteryx Veilance which fits me perfectly. My Birthday is in a few Weeks and i have been eyeing at Acronym stuff for a long time now but based on their Measurement Chart, even a small would be too big for me. (ACRNM Small: Chest 56cm, my Chest 49cm)

Edited July 17, 2015 by DemiGxd

[TEKsevenZERO]

I you are just a small human and will struggle

 

Just as I do at the opposing end of the sizing spectrum for Acronym I am luck if I find XL to fit me even luckier if they are the garment I like most.

 

Good luck 

[SuE]

Has Acronym ever made something in XS ? Small is gigantic based on the Measurements.

 

No. I searched twitter to find out why:

 

hopefully. we have to grow a bit more first, in order to make smaller sizes. :-/

Perhaps send him a message to remind him that there is growing demand for XS...

 

^ A Size Small is usually not narrower than 53cm which is huge for me. I usually wear a XS-S in Arcteryx Veilance which fits me perfectly. My Birthday is in a few Weeks and i have been eyeing at Acronym stuff for a long time now but based on their Measurement Chart, even a small would be too big for me. (ACRNM Small: Chest 56cm, my Chest 49cm)

As an XS in Veilance I empathize but if you're between XS-S you should be able to find some S in Acronym that fit. The measurement chart is not completely accurate; you also have to "read the descriptions of each style for further information on the general fit of the garment." The J27-GT "Fits: Straight" and has a size S "Chest 56cm" so it likely won't fit your 49cm chest as you said. However the GT-J29 "Fits: Profile" and has a size S "Chest 49.5cm" with a "completely re-architected shoulder and torso" for a DFMA [Designed for Martial Arts] fit. (Note that the Veilance Blazer LT XS has a 49cm Chest). Or there's the CH-J3B which "Fits: Profile", has a size S "Chest 45cm" but takes its source code from the French F-1 (a larger military jacket) not DFMA so fits like a Veilance XS. And there's the CH-J31 which "Fits: Straight", has a size S "Chest 57cm" but is based on a Japanese Kimono with a generous DFMA fit (rear hem adjusters included) and I swear fits perfectly. You really have to try it on to believe...

 

My rule of thumb for Acronym:

• If it "Fits: Straight" and/or is a classically designed garment (hoodie, shirt etc) then it's almost certainly too big.
• It it "Fits: Profile" then it's likely to fit, especially with layers in the winter.
• If it's an experimental or innovative garment (capes, kimono fits etc) then it's always worth trying it on.

Edited July 17, 2015 by SuE

[Igneousity]

I'm kind of frustrated by the total lack of ACR pants in XS. They exist, but nobody ever seems to stock them. Haven doesn't even stock Veilance pants in XS, which is making this few hundred in store credit I have with them stupidly frustrating.

[DemiGxd]

thanks SuE your post was very helpful, i didnt know that acronym has different fit types

[TEKsevenZERO]

I have discussed with Errolson about the introduction of different sizes and it is a much bigger task than merely knocking out a few more garments in smaller and bigger sizes given the extremely minute size of the ACR operation in general.

 

Not to say it will not happen but not as soon as the even tinier minority of us would hope to see !

 

I'll offer a solution which worked for me however.

 

Change your body to fit the garment!! True !

[exhaust fumes]

How tall are y'all that you're running sub small sizes? I've always thought of ACR being more orientated to more "athletic" builds from their experience making snowboard gear (which is good for me, because I already have a big butt from squats).

[DemiGxd]

^ I'm only 5'7

[Igneousity]

I'm 5'8" and athletically built, I fit small pretty solidly in jackets but pants not a chance.

[TEKsevenZERO]

15/16 SI:SP at Haven

 

http://shop.havenshop.ca/collections/stone-island-shadow-project

[drgitlin]

Good to hear; I'll be in Toronto in a couple of weeks so will check it out in person.

[DemiGxd]

Could somebody recommend me a light and waterproof daypack for travelling ? I'm flying to martinique next march (avid backpacker ) and i need something light and rain proof (think tropical downpour) for daytrips.

Edited July 20, 2015 by DemiGxd

[TEKsevenZERO]

Does anyone know if the PARSEQ grid has been abandoned ref SISP?

 

I really miss that aspect of the collection concept, been wondering for a while if the line is being steered into a near seamless segue into the Mainline SI - gone are the avant garde aspects and the stealth is sorely missed from the lineup.

 

Be interested in hearing others take on the direction and any insider info greatly appreciated.

 

I don't think my taste has changed and one could argue that the line has 'moved on' or evolved but I would put forward the argument that the line has devolved and sanitised even?

[SuE]

Before we dive into this discussion it would be useful to refer back to Nomad's interview 3 seasons ago:

i recently interviewed errolson for nomad, thought some of you guys might be interested: http://www.nomadshop.net/index.php/entry/431

we spoke specifically about shadow project, but there's some good stuff in there regardless.

N: What makes Shadow Project different from Stone Island's mainline?

E: It has a different function. The reason it's called Shadow is because it's a by-product of the mainline. You can't have Shadow without the mainline. Shadow's purpose... Carlo calls it his Formula-1 team. It's kind of evolved over time. In general, I would say the objective is to push things forward and experiment. There's a lot more freedom. There's nothing to lose with Shadow. The original thing we tried to do was introduce performance materials into Stone Island's methodology. Over the course of the first four years of Shadow that was our main focus – learning how to build performance materials in the sense of sportswear. Water-repellent, waterproof, breathable, that kind of thing, but built with the Stone Island aesthetic and using the Stone Island tools to do it. So, garment-dyed, treated, things that really don't look like traditional performance materials. When we first started, it was quite difficult. They have their own fabric research department and they had to really get their head around, "Okay, it looks cool, it feels great, it has this neat, rubberized effect – and now you want to make it breathable?" It's like, the first three are already really hard to do. So, that took a long time. We just recently shifted the focus of Shadow because we all felt that had already been explored and a lot of the technology and know-how we had developed for Shadow had found its way into the mainline. There're a lot of really high-performance materials in the mainline now, as well, so we didn't feel that was enough of a differentiation. Now our mandate is almost more of an aesthetic exploration. Pushing the boundaries of what Stone Island can be. Recently, there's been a lot of work in knitwear, and a lot of work in graphics, graphical applications and that kind of thing, which we're continuing for the next summer and next winter. We're in the middle of next winter right now...

N: Something that's really essential to Shadow Project that's different from a lot of the brands we carry at Nomad is the aspect of modularity. Could you tell us why that's become such a big part of the Shadow Project stuff?

E: That came out of wanting to create things that we thought were really contemporary, just in terms of modern life. The seasonal approach to producing apparel and buying it has become so out of whack. There are no real seasons anymore. And, also, the weather patterns of the Earth...

N: Toronto has, like, two seasons now.

E: Yeah. Plus, people are traveling all the time. So, layering and modularity became a given. You don't want to spend that much money on a jacket that you can't wear all year round in all situations, or in as many as possible. And the modularity was just a way to explore that, to give people more options and freedom. And allow people to mix and match and put things together in ways they feel work for them. We're actually really happy that we've been able to come up with a system that's simple enough and unobtrusive enough that we've managed to maintain it for the duration. There's new modular vests in the next winter collection that will fit into the jackets from the first season...

PARSEQ grid was absent last two winter seasons and does appear to be abandoned. I did like the aesthetic direction from last winter; the colorful static effect patterns were a bold push in the usually monochrome techwear landscape. I'm hesitant to judge the upcoming collection based on the few items up on Haven so far.

[TEKsevenZERO]

I welcomed the colour but that has always been there with SP, someties hidden but there none the less, I love the knitted glitch and would love to see the entire collection in all it's iterations however there never seems to be a resource where it can all be viewed.

The lookbooks only show a little, and only when you see various websites showing what they are selling do you realise of the varied colour palette.

 

I think that it's great that ACR is moving in a more experimental way as observed with the recent partnership with Nemen.

 

I still feel that there was a time when you 'knew' it was Shadow though even without witnessing the all black badge.

 

Now though, I would have difficulty in knowing what DNA was on display, I think 'I' have seen the best of Shadow for my taste but always look forward to being surprised.

[aleporte]

Tomorrow:

 

[Brainboy]

Arc'teryx mainline AW15 is up.

There are again some nice urban techwear pieces such as Interstate jacket, Koda Parka and even more Veilance like Moresby shirt.

And as always, an outstanding selection of gloves and backpacks.

 

 

I welcomed the colour but that has always been there with SP, someties hidden but there none the less, I love the knitted glitch and would love to see the entire collection in all it's iterations however there never seems to be a resource where it can all be viewed.

The lookbooks only show a little, and only when you see various websites showing what they are selling do you realise of the varied colour palette.

 

I think that it's great that ACR is moving in a more experimental way as observed with the recent partnership with Nemen.

 

I still feel that there was a time when you 'knew' it was Shadow though even without witnessing the all black badge.

 

Now though, I would have difficulty in knowing what DNA was on display, I think 'I' have seen the best of Shadow for my taste but always look forward to being surprised.

 

As much as I still love the Shadow Project I must admit that it is indeed getting somehow less radical and less Acronym-ish.

Though there were some very good designs (even nods to the cyberpunk aesthetics) such as this glitch-knit part of the last AW collection and the all red Akira-like styling etc.

I agree with your point, I'd love to see something rad but I almost always end up buying something very basic and simple.

[rhaaag]

Arc'teryx mainline AW15 is up.

There are again some nice urban techwear pieces such as Interstate jacket, Koda Parka and even more Veilance like Moresby shirt.

And as always, an outstanding selection of gloves and backpacks.

 

They dropped the khuno and therme which means no longer length jackets. pretty peeved as I was going to pick up a khuno this season. Koda is too short, 150$ more expensive and the athletic cut doesn't seem too thought out for a daily winter parka. -40C winters for me here means I need room for layering. : /

[bryanayrb]

acg up on nikelab jp

 

tech fleece pants / sweater, packable nylon hidden placket shirt, 3M ACG tee, some really long shorts

[kraak]

What about those shoes, though.

[Inkinsurgent]

nikelab tech shirt looks nice - finally something not entirely derived from existing products.

 

dead bird mainline fw15 looks a bit meh. their 24 lifestyle pieces seem increasingly uninspired. 

 

edit: return of the captive ls polo is pretty cool after it's been away for five or seven years or so 

Edited July 23, 2015 by Inkinsurgent

[Sammy You]

NEMEN at pitti 5 weeks ago (note the j28s on the top left)

 

https://instagram.com/p/4Ct4YZjk3X/

Edited July 24, 2015 by Sammy You

[WillKhitie]

I'm just here to say, that burgundy looks so good. Literally made my morning, that said, I've been having a shitty day thus far.

[get up]

Best looking city backpack (about 20L) under $200?

[Inkinsurgent]

arc'teryx granville

[hooper]

I'm just here to say, that burgundy looks so good. Literally made my morning, that said, I've been having a shitty day thus far.

 

it's pink

[pompadork]

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/597538543/the-worlds-best-travel-jacket-with-15-features-bau?ref=newest

 

lol