Acronym.

[drgitlin]

GT-J44 arrived. To say I love it is an understatement. Fits so much better on me than the -J29A, to the point where I'm considering if I should sell the latter (although a short-sleeve goretex jacket has actually been quite useful so maybe not).

*please excuse the state of the rug, it's basically the cats' room and I haven't hoovered in there recently.

Edited March 18, 2015 by Dr Jonboy

[Grimes]

Once again Firmament Berlin has failed me... Sent me a size large in the P10-S when I clearly placed an order for a size medium. Unacceptable.

 

Edit: If someone could help direct me towards a size medium in the p10-s (other than st. alfred) I would be grateful.

Edited March 18, 2015 by Grimes

[Sypron]

These may be garment-dyed etc. but the patterning is still distinctly ACR.

 

But it's a t-shirt. I get that you can do articulated shoulders on a t-shirt, it's the same concept as for any other torso-wear. But is that really enough to say that it's unique? It's superfluous. Who's ever worn a t-shirt and thought "this is so restrictive" to the point that it needed shoulder articulation. Espcially on a shirt as loose as the ones they're exhibiting. I'd love to see that kind of patterning on a dress shirt, which is usually a restrictive garment and the type that you want to wear in a sartorial fit.

 

Anyway - I’ll await the return of logo’d sleeve hitches and waistbands.

 

Thought I was the only one!

 

Fades, wears holes, the water repellency isn't very good. Don't know if that's the actual reason why we don't see it any more but I wouldn't be surprised.

 

Isn't the fading desireable? It does affect black more than olive. I'd say that for black epic, the fading could be considered unattractive. For olive it doesn't fade as much and it's much more appealing aesthetically when it does.

 

I've found the water repellency of epic to be really good when it's new, but not super easy to maintain. It does seem to stop beading after a few wears, which requires a wash to re-activate. Compared to stotz, it is softer and lighter. A better lightshell for the heat.

[drgitlin]

 

 

Isn't the fading desireable? It does affect black more than olive. I'd say that for black epic, the fading could be considered unattractive. For olive it doesn't fade as much and it's much more appealing aesthetically when it does.

 

I've found the water repellency of epic to be really good when it's new, but not super easy to maintain. It does seem to stop beading after a few wears, which requires a wash to re-activate. Compared to stotz, it is softer and lighter. A better lightshell for the heat.

 

I've actually found my green P-9Es faded a lot more than the black ones, and have worn much faster too, and I think they've both been washed about the same amount of times (a lot). However, I've got an E-J4 that has obviously been washed much more infrequently (probably only two or three times) and it still looks great, and is a great spring jacket if it's not going to rain. 

 

Add me to the "logo'd sleeves and waistbands" crew. The only two things I could complain about re: the J44 is no logo tape and nowhere to stow the hood (I think it could go in one of the pockets but it'll bulge more than doing the same with the J29A).

Edited March 18, 2015 by Dr Jonboy

[insomnia]

But it's a t-shirt. I get that you can do articulated shoulders on a t-shirt, it's the same concept as for any other torso-wear. But is that really enough to say that it's unique? It's superfluous. Who's ever worn a t-shirt and thought "this is so restrictive" to the point that it needed shoulder articulation. Espcially on a shirt as loose as the ones they're exhibiting. I'd love to see that kind of patterning on a dress shirt, which is usually a restrictive garment and the type that you want to wear in a sartorial fit.

 

 

probably the same people thinking:

1. why do i have to pull my zipper all the way down to take off this jacket!?!
2. pulling my phone out of my pocket is TOO MUCH WORK! i'd much rather use a gravitational mechanism to expel it from my sleeve!
3. i HATE carrying this jacket in a bag (that i already spent a few hundred to acquire, btw). i'd much rather sling it over my shoulder and leave the bag for holding this expensive cape and cyberpunk book.

obviously exaggerating here, but a lot of what acronym does can be considered superfluous, yet it objectively adds functionality. i understand that a button up would benefit more from articulation and geometric patterning more than a t-shirt – but tees are definitely a summer staple, and errolson probably wanted to make the perfect t-shirt for him to wear.

 

along with what cmdR is saying, why don't we try the stuff out before dismissing it as less functional, divergent from the aesthetic. i don't think errolson is designing things with the mindset that compromising functionality is OK as long as it looks cool (e.g., bling zippers). each piece i've bought over the past few seasons has met and surpassed my expectations, just as ACR pieces did when i started buying them a few years ago.

 

additionally, i'm happy that errolson isn't just rehashing old collections over and over. each of the past seasons have managed to introduce new themes that are not completely incongruous (e.g., P15+16, J43), as well as revive "legacy" pieces (J27, P10, J25, etc.) that hearken back to the updated mil-spec feel from years prior.

 

i guess the disclaimer would be that i enjoy both "new" and "old" acronym, ha.

[jbob24]

Here's kind of a crappy pic of the shirt. The build of it and the p17s make me look wider and shorter than I really am.

Let me state clearly: the material, construction and articulation are all excellent. It's literally the best made Tshirt I've ever put on. But it's shaped weird, the body is wide and the sleeves are very long and tight. I feel like it's just cut that way to show off the articulated shoulders, which are nicely done but far from necessary.

The back bottom is cut in a way that encourages it to roll up making it even shorter than it already feels. Once the back starts it makes its way around and starts rolling up in the front. Maybe this is a characteristic that will go away once the shirt is washed but I'm pretty sure it's going back so I won't be finding out.

Edit: worth pointing out, I'm a fan of the aesthetic this shirt is going for. I'm also a big fan of articulation (necessary or not) so those aren't reasons I'm sending this back, it just isn't working on me

Edited March 18, 2015 by jbob24

[donburi]

I obtained my first pieces on Friday's drop. So far the J29-CH has arrived.

 

The quality of the materials and assembly exceeds expectations. The chest fit in small is also perfect. The only point of the design that seems questionable is the size of the arms, which are far wider and looser than I expected. Of course, this does allow for the existence of the gravity pockets and much greater freedom of movement, but even a thicker person as short as I wouldn't be able to fill the ample room in the sleeves.

 

I've taken to tightening the velcro straps on the sleeve hems to fit more tightly around my wrist and prevent the jacket from extending over my hands. Any J29 owners have other advice on how to compensate for the size and effectively wear the piece?

[cmdR]

Jbob24 I think you need to size up and the tee would look great on you.

[cmdR]

I obtained my first pieces on Friday's drop. So far the J29-CH has arrived.

 

The quality of the materials and assembly exceeds expectations. The chest fit in small is also perfect. The only point of the design that seems questionable is the size of the arms, which are far wider and looser than I expected. Of course, this does allow for the existence of the gravity pockets and much greater freedom of movement, but even a thicker person as short as I wouldn't be able to fill the ample room in the sleeves.

 

I've taken to tightening the velcro straps on the sleeve hems to fit more tightly around my wrist and prevent the jacket from extending over my hands. Any J29 owners have other advice on how to compensate for the size and effectively wear the piece?

Wear it loose like Lenny Muller. Think Kung Fu sleeves.

Or ball your hand into a fist and tighten the Velcro over it.

Personally I'm not a fan of tightening the Velcro over the wrist Endclothing-style.

[Appleseed]

i guess the disclaimer would be that i enjoy both "new" and "old" acronym, ha.

 

Well, I definitely don't want to beat a dead horse, and can appreciate the thought and effort they've put into all the new stuff (from a technical standpoint, even if I and others may seem to see it as straying from the core). I can even dig the icon they're producing - this is pretty cool, even if it's not something that works on/for me personally.

 

BUT:

 

OK as long as it looks cool (e.g., bling zippers). 

 

 

I think thatslapz's combo photo is a perfect example of how some details are being mistranslated. You can't look at that and not see what 'doesn't belong'. And FWIW, I think all designers are sometimes guilty of pulling shit that is more 'cool' than functional (I know we succumb to that every once in a while) - the trick is threading that needle and not relying on it as a crutch. Do it critically, not as a gimmick. Functionally, the jacketsling (which I love and use, for the record), aught not to ever be routed in the external manner - if the shell is wet and you wear via the sling, now you are too since all the 'outside' faces are meeting. Yet, if there's conflicting mezzanine / interior holster pockets that otherwise complicate the use, than maybe its ok and cool to flip the sling to the outside, externally - while also elevating the the whole visual emphasis. It just decreases the purely functional aspect and turns it partially into an aesthetic choice. Interopsæ cross-functionality might be another reason to push the sling to the outside - one less thing to get hung up on the interior.

 

Anyway - that's enough armchair quarterbacking for one season - some pieces can route the jacketsling inside or outside - some only in, and some (think my GT-J15) can only route outside. Not going to post-rationalize every design choice over here!

[cmdR]

Straying from the core? It can be argued that perhaps those who think so might have mistranslated the core of what Acronym really is. If you rely on pure aesthetics, of course there are bound to be stylistic changes; Street wear is always evolving. But the core, the core of what makes Acronym so distinctive is stronger than ever.

Re: metal zippers on 3A-1. It's highly subjective. All designers know that. So it comes down to function. Does it function better to warrant the inclusion?

Suprised no one has mentioned this, but the best reason to have the jacket sling on the outside is simply for comfort. When your jacket is wet you obviously won't sling it behind your back. It's Acronymjutsu 101

[Appleseed]

:shrug: it isn't 'highly subjective' when there's a preceding pattern (how many years was the 3A-1 produced with the coated YKK zipper?) and a cohesive intent/aesthetic working together. You reasoned earlier that it's more water-resistant due to edge-to-edge construction. I'll take your word since I don't see any infiltration tests. But the whole reason the big ass YKK zipper gets a pass in the first place was that it's an Interopsæ bag - when it rains hard, it goes inside the shell. For whatever reason, if there's suddenly some left-field interest in now making that a fully water-resistant feature (and face it, the bag is still L2, so...) then there are more purely functional options.

 

As far as the rest; you can argue 'current' distinctive-ness ad nauseam - but it won't hold water for me when the 'current' product was all produced in collaboration with another house and aesthetically breaks from precedent.

[cmdR]

Everything's subjective. Design especially. Otherwise we wouldn't be having this discussion. The old YKK zipper gets a pass from me because even in the hardest rainforest thunderstorm it didn't get wet. The holes were small enough. The new zippers are obviously better in that regard.

J44, J27, J29, P10 and the J43 base are all produced in house. So I don't know what you're getting at? Styling maybe?

[cmdR]

Not forgetting P17, DS-LA3. And all T shirts are also designed in house. Nemen works on the materials and processes.

Edit: everything is designed in house. To reiterate the collab is ACR design with Nemen materials and processes.

And aesthetics is a definite big focus for Acronym, its raison d'etre is to find the perfect balance between aesthetics and function, and to a large extent breaking from the precedent. But with Acronym function is also form/aesthetics as can be seen in the brutal placement of pockets and perhaps the use of the new metallic zipper in the 3A-1.

Edited March 19, 2015 by cmdR

[Sypron]

But the whole reason the big ass YKK zipper gets a pass in the first place was that it's an Interopsæ bag - when it rains hard, it goes inside the shell. For whatever reason, if there's suddenly some left-field interest in now making that a fully water-resistant feature (and face it, the bag is still L2, so...) then there are more purely functional options.

 

Everything's subjective. Design especially. Otherwise we wouldn't be having this discussion. The old YKK zipper gets a pass from me because even in the hardest rainforest thunderstorm it didn't get wet. The holes were small enough. The new zippers are obviously better in that regard.

 

You actually touched on an interesting point there. Should an Interops bag be waterproof? If it is supposed to be waterproof, why bother using Interops and shielding it with a jacket? If it isn't and requires an Interops jacket for protection, then how is it superior to any of the waterproof messenger bags on the market? 

 

Personally I see a few other uses for Interops. Firstly, if the bag's shoulder strap is under the jacket, it's not going to rub against the shell and cause it to lose repellency. Secondly, it lets you don and doff the jacket without removing the bag. So Interops isn't completely about shielding the bag, as much as it does provide that benefit. In fact I've found that Interops lets more water onto my body in heavy rain so I prefer not to use it in that situation.

 

Seems to me that a 3A-1 or 3A-3TS should be independently waterproof. Now if Acronym thought that it's not sufficiently waterpoof because of the zipper (which is a fair call), why stop at the zip? Why not use the YKK Aquaguard zipper which is used on almost all of their jackets already? Why not use a stormflap over the top so water never even touches the zip at all? 

 

I understand that we're only talking about the slightest amounts of water here, but if you're going to redo your product to improve a certain aspect, why stop so short? The design has remained unchanged beyond that single modification. Would it have been possible to make the MK pouches on the front more waterproof as well? Currently there are gaps at the top which water can very easily enter. Like Appleseed said, there are other options that achieve that goal.

Edited March 19, 2015 by Sypron

[lesteel]

Btw where is video lookbook?

[cmdR]

Is my old Limonta 3A-1 water-resistant enough for my daily applications and the occasional trip into the jungles? Yes.

Would I like it to be more water-resistant? Sure.

Do I want it to be 100% waterproof? Not really because it just can't be done without compromising the qualities that make the 3A-1 great; namely: simplicity, lightness and smooth operability.

I have used my 3A-1 for 5 years and I struggle to think of ways to improve it. Durability issues have been ironed out with the new Limonta and the zipper improved. For its intended application it is nearly perfect. I would perhaps ask ACR to consider adding or selling an extra body strap to stabilize the bag when running, and since the mounting points are already there.

[Inkinsurgent]

Straying from the core? It can be argued that perhaps those who think so might have mistranslated the core of what Acronym really is. But the core, the core of what makes Acronym so distinctive is stronger than ever.

 

Can you elaborate on why acr's core distinctiveness is "stronger than ever" (in the literal meaning of the sentence, as in: this season is 'the most acr season ever') when a significant portion of the product lineup is based on products that are A commonplace in the collections of various other brands and B a much larger deviation from their conceptual and aesthetic mean than any preceding season?

 

i mean, you can put articulation into an oversized garment dyed t-shirt until it has more seams than leatherface's wardrobe, but in the end it's still an oversized, garment dyed t-shirt exactly like everyone from ASOS to Rick Owens is offering these days. 

 

And there's nothing wrong with that, but doing something other people are doing is just not the definition of "distinctiveness".

Edited March 19, 2015 by Inkinsurgent

[cmdR]

Can you elaborate on why acr's core distinctiveness is "stronger than ever" (in the literal meaning of the sentence, as in: this season is 'the most acr season ever') when a significant portion of the product lineup is based on products that are A commonplace in the collections of various other brands and B a much larger deviation from their conceptual and aesthetic mean than any preceding season?

 

i mean, you can put articulation into an oversized garment dyed t-shirt until it has more seams than leatherface's wardrobe, but in the end it's still an oversized, garment dyed t-shirt exactly like everyone from ASOS to Rick Owens is offering these days. 

 

And there's nothing wrong with that, but doing something other people are doing is just not the definition of "distinctiveness".

 

And how are they less distinctive now then when they started in mid 2000s with their oversized jackets, baggy pants and military-inspired garments that everyone from Maharishi to CP Company to Recon were doing? ACR has always been designed in context for urban environments and the prevailing sentiments. 

 

You choose to keep singling out their garment dyed, oversized tees as being derivative (without even looking for the subtleties in patterning and cut), but how about the J44? The P17, J27, J43K, how could you mistake these for anything else but Acronym and Errolson Hugh? Isn't that the very definition of "distinctiveness"?

[Inkinsurgent]

Can you elaborate on why acr's core distinctiveness is "stronger than ever" (in the literal meaning of the sentence, as in: this season is 'the most acr season ever') ?

[cmdR]

 

Can you elaborate on why acr's core distinctiveness is "stronger than ever" (in the literal meaning of the sentence, as in: this season is 'the most acr season ever') ?

 

 

Because it riles up the people who don't get them more than ever. Not that there's anything wrong with that because apparently there are plenty of other brands who are more inspired and distinctive right now. 

[Appleseed]

By 'house' I meant fashion house, i.e., NemeN - and obv. by 'current' I was referencing the non-reissued stuff (except, the J43 which isn't new per se, but takes on a totally different character with the IT material). J44 has this egregious zipperthing on it...which starts to erode the distinctive-ness.

 

Regardless - we try to teach the kids (interns, students, etc.) how to come to natural conclusion and eliminate intuitive subjectivity out of the design process. Logic and meaning behind everything. You, yourself (cmdR) admitted that the old style zipper worked (functioned) fine - and if needing/wanting true waterproof-ness at the main zipper, there are better alternates. The switch is at least, partially, rooted in an aesthetic choice. And an aesthetic choice that deviates from the rest of the bag design. There's nothing subjective about that judgement. The juxtaposition of material speaks for itself.

 

edit-more spelling :/

Edited March 19, 2015 by Appleseed

[Inkinsurgent]

Because it riles up the people who don't get them more than ever. Not that there's anything wrong with that because apparently there are plenty of other brands who are more inspired and distinctive right now. 

 

I'm not riled up in the least, i just figured that since acr's distinction is "stronger than ever" that might be somehow quantifiable. 

 

Also, i'm not making any claims regarding other brands being more distinctive, nor am i implying that distinctiveness is a zero sum game between brands. 

 

But it's okay. SS15 is cool. I like the microtwill pants and the blazer. 

Edited March 19, 2015 by Inkinsurgent

[bryanayrb]

By 'house' I meant fashion house, i.e., NemeN - and obv. by 'current' I was referencing the non-reissued stuff (except, the J43 which isn't new per se, but takes on a totally different character with the IT material). J44 has this egregious zipperthing on it...which starts to erode the distinctive-ness.

 

Regardless - we try to the kids (interns, students, etc.) how to come to natural conclusion and eliminate intuitive subjectivity out of the design process. Logic and meaning behind everything. You, yourself (cmdR) admitted that the old style zipper worked (functioned) fine - and if needing/wanting true waterproof-ness at the main zipper, there are better alternates. The switch is at least, partially, rooted in an aesthetic choice. And an aesthetic choice that deviates from the rest of the bag design. There's nothing subjective about that judgement. The juxtaposition of material speaks for itself.

 

edit-spelling :/

 

acronym balances aesthetic and function. there are elements of both in every piece and it seems like the brand swayed more towards aesthetic this season.

 

there's stuff like silver j1a and chrome bags... perhaps not for any functional reason but it's still ACR at the core - just with a more interesting aesthetic element. 

Edited March 19, 2015 by bryanayrb

[cmdR]

By 'house' I meant fashion house, i.e., NemeN - and obv. by 'current' I was referencing the non-reissued stuff (except, the J43 which isn't new per se, but takes on a totally different character with the IT material). J44 has this egregious zipperthing on it...which starts to erode the distinctive-ness.

 

Regardless - we try to the kids (interns, students, etc.) how to come to natural conclusion and eliminate intuitive subjectivity out of the design process. Logic and meaning behind everything. You, yourself (cmdR) admitted that the old style zipper worked (functioned) fine - and if needing/wanting true waterproof-ness at the main zipper, there are better alternates. The switch is at least, partially, rooted in an aesthetic choice. And an aesthetic choice that deviates from the rest of the bag design. There's nothing subjective about that judgement. The juxtaposition of material speaks for itself.

 

edit-spelling :/

 

The old zipper worked, but the new metal ones as Taospace kindly pointed out are better. Being more water-resistant is a secondary benefit. The new zippers zip better. It's not hard to understand. Aesthetics play a part, but with Acronym, the function is the aesthetic, to the point of seeming incongruous to you. It's not, "Let's bling out this bag!" It's, "Let's incorporate a better zipper!" The zippers are metal, not anodized or stealth-ed up. It's honest and in-line with current Acronym's design philosophy. By the way, it's really condescending how you essentially compared ACR's work with those of your interns and students. Don't get me wrong, I'm not personally offended by it, just thought I'd point it out to you because you seem rather oblivious.

 

And really, the egregrious zipper thing on the J44 is what makes it distinctive no? Dual lanes for layering expansion has been an ACR thing since the GT-J5A. 

 

 

I'm not riled up in the least, i just figured that since acr's distinction is "stronger than ever" that might be somehow quantifiable. 

 

Also, i'm not making any claims regarding other brands being more distinctive, nor am i implying that distinctiveness is a zero sum game between brands. 

 

But it's okay. SS15 is cool. I like the microtwill pants and the blazer. 

 

Yes it's perfectly quantifiable, you either get it or you don't.  

[Appleseed]

'the function is the aesthetic' .... The function is to work as a zipper - the aesthetic is 1) or 2) or 3) etc. They all function as zippers and while there may be some tactile 'improvement' with the new zip (which I've used, FWIW), it is not a black and white decision. They could have gone another direction and done a full taped WP zipper or stormflap like Syphon said. And as bryanayrb notes, It is a balance between aesthetics and function, and the exuberance of both, which has always set ACR apart.
 
Anyway, this is getting repetitious; and total :facepalm: re: 'condescending .' In no way/shape/form was I comparing ACR to interns/students, lol. ACR totally gets the need for functional logic behind design choices! Have always felt 100% simpatico there. But thanks for clearing that up for me We can certainly agree that either one 'get's it' or one does not.

 

-edit: fucking autosmily

Edited March 19, 2015 by Appleseed

[drgitlin]

By 'house' I meant fashion house, i.e., NemeN - and obv. by 'current' I was referencing the non-reissued stuff (except, the J43 which isn't new per se, but takes on a totally different character with the IT material). J44 has this egregious zipperthing on it...which starts to erode the distinctive-ness.

To push back a bit on this - the J44 is a shawl collar jacket. The only other times you really see shawl collars are smoking jackets and dinner jackets, both of which are showy/peacocky items, and so the silver highlights are appropriate in this case.

[Yardsale]

What have people been using for cross-straps? I can repurpose an old Timbuk2 one but it's a bit long. I'd probably shorten it.

 

Is my old Limonta 3A-1 water-resistant enough for my daily applications and the occasional trip into the jungles? Yes.

Would I like it to be more water-resistant? Sure.

Do I want it to be 100% waterproof? Not really because it just can't be done without compromising the qualities that make the 3A-1 great; namely: simplicity, lightness and smooth operability.

I have used my 3A-1 for 5 years and I struggle to think of ways to improve it. Durability issues have been ironed out with the new Limonta and the zipper improved. For its intended application it is nearly perfect. I would perhaps ask ACR to consider adding or selling an extra body strap to stabilize the bag when running, and since the mounting points are already there.

[jbob24]

Thank you sweet little baby Jesus!  The wonder of -ch fabric has put my deadlifting, squattin', lunging (fat)ass back into some much needed ACR pantaloons!!

 

P10 has long since been my favorite pattern and I've been pretty well SOL the last few season, Epic does not have much "give" to it.  I know it's old news but this is the first of this newer material I've got my hands on and I am impressed.  Whoever described it as "luxe" nailed it, very smooth and almost silky.  

 

Can anybody comment on the long term durability? 

[Appleseed]

so the silver highlights are appropriate in this case.

 

I'll buy this (tho it still rubs me the ever-so-slightly wrong way; much like the J40 - which I'm otherwise fully happy w/)

Edited March 19, 2015 by Appleseed