Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

[shredwin_206]

1927 jacket 

[indigoeagle]

The Birner shirt.
I had seen it before a few weeks ago, when it was released.. But - as is often the case- with some fit pics one gets a better idea of how it looks.
The fit pic of this VMC guy shows it quite well. It will apparently show strong vertical fading. Denim description: "Vintage Style 8.5oz Indigo [Denim]
The warp threads use strongly uneven pure indigo yarn, and the weft threads use well-balanced uneven yarn, dyed with natural dyes, resulting in a twill weave that allows you to enjoy a strong vertical fade. It features a moderately stiff 8.5 oz denim fabric that allows you to enjoy a strong vertical fade."

A great item again by FWs.

From VMC insta:

[Broark]

I'll be sure to post mine once it arrives. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

1951s

[MJF9]

506XX 1941, new denim, non-wash... which I much prefer as I have at least some control over how much to shrink it.  Jeans to follow next month I hear

Edited May 16 by MJF9

[indigoeagle]

2 hours ago, MJF9 said:

506XX 1941, new denim, non-wash... which I much prefer as I have at least some control over how much to shrink it.  Jeans to follow next month I hear

It looks great.
But the cut is quite long and with narrower shoulders compared to the chest not so boxy overall.
It seems to have been (one wonders why) the cut of that year as the Warehouse 1941 is cut similar but with wider shoulders and a narrower pit.
I think, it was generally, that during the war period the jackets got longer. 
The 1946 and on ones as well as the 30s ones are quite short, around 60cm.

[MJF9]

I'm expecting the size 44 to end up about 60 pit to pit and 61 length, so quite boxy... but let's see when it lands

Agree the FW 44-45 is longer than most. However, my SCSC 43 and 45 are both 60/61 length though.

I'll post measurements before and after washing when it lands - probably when the 41 jeans come through

Edit - the '41 jacket size is supposed to be between the '33 and '42 models... time will tell

Edited May 16 by MJF9

[l13902733261]

What is the shortest denim jacket body length wise that FW has offered?

[shredwin_206]

The shortest I would say is probably the 1927 or 1933

 

[shredwin_206]

Freewheelers 1900 denim pullover. Washed hot. Dried hot. Worn every for about 9 months I think

[indigoeagle]

8 hours ago, MJF9 said:

I'm expecting the size 44 to end up about 60 pit to pit and 61 length, so quite boxy... but let's see when it lands

Agree the FW 44-45 is longer than most. However, my SCSC 43 and 45 are both 60/61 length though.

I'll post measurements before and after washing when it lands - probably when the 41 jeans come through

Edit - the '41 jacket size is supposed to be between the '33 and '42 models... time will tell

For the 46 for example Iceclimber gives the exact same measurements for the 1941 and the 1942 506 jackets:

N/W 46: sts- 54cm ptp-66cm bl-68cm sl-66.5cm

If the denim shrinks the same as the 1942 it should result in the following (see Wolfpack page )
O/W 44: sts- 51cm ptp-58cm bl-63cm sl-62cm 
So a bit longer than you expect @MJF9 (Just checked DC4 measures 61cm though )

O/W 46: sts- 53cm ptp-62cm bl-64cm sl-62cm

Comparing the back lengths for size 46:
1933: size 46 NW-69cm      OW-64cm
1941: size 46 NW- 68cm     OW-??
1942: size 46 NW -68cm    OW- 64cm
1944-45: size 46 NW-  OW- 65cm (on some sites: 63cm)
1946/47- 46 NW-  67cm *, O/W- 61.5cm

* interestingly both Schroeder and MB state it as 67cm, so a lot of shrinking for this denim.
At least this is for the size 46 and that is also my experience.
In some text a distinction had been made between denim jackets and blouses, with the latter being shorter, but I can't remember the details. Perhaps someone else can.

And for some more numbers. Comparing the FW 1941 with the Warehouse one. I'm going with the measurements by Wolfpack for the 1942 one here.
So: FW O/W 1941 size 46: 
sts- 53cm ptp-62cm bl-64cm sl-62cm

The Warehouse one Lot 2001XX(2000XX) (1941MODEL) is for size 46 after washing:
sts- 54cm ptp- 59cm bl-64,5cm bl- 64cm
So a bit slimmer in the chest, a bit longer in the back and also longer sleeves.

[indigoeagle]

Now the 1941 506 O/W measurements have been posted by some retailers.

Old Stand Up:

 

Wolf Pack:

Size	36(S)	38(M)	40(L)	42(XL)	44(XXL)	46(XXXL)	48(XXXXL)
肩幅	42cm	44cm	47cm	49cm	51cm	53cm	56cm
身幅	49cm	52cm	54cm	57cm	59cm	62cm	64cm
着丈	55cm	56cm	58cm	60cm	62cm	64cm	66cm
袖丈	59cm	60cm	61cm	62cm	63cm	63cm	64cm

 

For me the 44 would be a bit too tight- I have some jackets which are in that area.
And the 46 with 64cm is probably too long for my preferences. I currently prefer the length to be around 60cm.

Like I had written before the WH jacket 1941 is also relatively long, so it seems that for some reason the jackets of that time were made longer.
Perhaps it will start to grow on me and I'll change my mind
Or perhaps I find a retailer who has one that is cut shorter. There can be differences of a few centimetres.
 

Edited May 20 by indigoeagle

[MJF9]

@indigoeagle thanks for this ^.  I find OW to be quite industrial for many brands i.e. very hot wash and hot dry, perhaps to shrink more-or-less to the max.  I'd prefer to have raw so I can play with the wash temperature to get the right shrink (and occasionally totally screw it up).  Agreeing the 46 looks quite long, and the 44 narrow in the chest... 59cm hmmmm.  My '37 jacket came OW in size 44 and I thought feck this will not work... but it stretched out and works nicely.  Depends on the denim I suppose and the arm hole size and and and... 

For shorter war-time jackets, the Sugar Cane Super Collectibles hit the mark 

Edited May 20 by MJF9

[indigoeagle]

13 hours ago, MJF9 said:

@indigoeagle thanks for this ^.  I find OW to be quite industrial for many brands i.e. very hot wash and hot dry, perhaps to shrink more-or-less to the max.  I'd prefer to have raw so I can play with the wash temperature to get the right shrink (and occasionally totally screw it up).  Agreeing the 46 looks quite long, and the 44 narrow in the chest... 59cm hmmmm.  My '37 jacket came OW in size 44 and I thought feck this will not work... but it stretched out and works nicely.  Depends on the denim I suppose and the arm hole size and and and... 

For shorter war-time jackets, the Sugar Cane Super Collectibles hit the mark 

Sure, if you don't wash them hot the 44 will probably work out.
My first 506 from FW is a 40, which I've only cold rinsed. It fits like a 42.

[okimoto]

1947s with 8 or 9 months of wear, maybe a dozen washes. This denim has become my favorite across the brands I’ve worn. Last two pics are them next to At Last 161’s, both size 30 and hemmed by the best shop in Kyoto. Colors are truest in the third photo

Edited May 22 by okimoto

[shredwin_206]

1900 pullover
1927 jacket 

[l13902733261]

Sidekick training suit

Edited May 28 by l13902733261

[Double 0 Soul]

A shell suit!? 

Jeez.. 1988 repro? 

What sneaks you wearing it with.. Reebok Pump or LA Gear Street Slammers? 

[reubensangwich]

I believe it's a repro of the US Army physical training uniform from the 2010s

[Double 0 Soul]

Hmm.. That doesn't make it any less shellsuit-ish

It's borderline Savile-wear

[julian-wolf]

16 minutes ago, reubensangwich said:

I believe it's a repro of the US Army physical training uniform from the 2010s

We’re really already reproing Syria and Afghanistan?

Credit where credit’s due, I don’t really get down with nylon in most cases but the set looks pretty sweet

[l13902733261]

2 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

A shell suit!? 

Jeez.. 1988 repro? 

What sneaks you wearing it with.. Reebok Pump or LA Gear Street Slammers? 

Nike hyper ko2 with the shank zipper halfway up

[l13902733261]

1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

I don’t really get down with nylon in most cases but the set looks pretty sweet

This is without question the nicest synthetic fabric I've ever handled.

Edited May 28 by l13902733261

[l13902733261]

10 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

We’re really already reproing Syria and Afghanistan?

I mean Japan was reproing 60s Levis back in the early 90s, not far off I'd say.

[Double 0 Soul]

This might be the point when superdenim and supertechwear finally unite

[ATWM]

Looks like the gear my ROTC roommate in college had. There’s repros that I get, and then there’s repros that I…can’t quite get. Like when Warehouse sold a repro of a sweatshirt shirt from the high school I went to. The kicker is that this gear is way less comfortable for working out/training than other options too. I’m sure I’m missing something but alas that’s okay with me. 

[reubensangwich]

1 hour ago, ATWM said:

Looks like the gear my ROTC roommate in college had. There’s repros that I get, and then there’s repros that I…can’t quite get. Like when Warehouse sold a repro of a sweatshirt shirt from the high school I went to. The kicker is that this gear is way less comfortable for working out/training than other options too. I’m sure I’m missing something but alas that’s okay with me. 

Being most of these clothes are made with the Japanese consumer in mind, it's just Americana to them. Graphics from US schools, design hints from US military uniforms, etc.   

On top of that I think it's just the natural progression of Mil-Repro, as time plods on the wars this gear was worn in become more of a distant memory to the population, and it becomes more okay to wear as fashion. It's only a matter of time until we start seeing digital and multi-cam repros from some of these brands.

On one hand, I think this particular jacket looks pretty good, but on the other I wouldn't be caught dead in it because anyone who knows what it is would think I was wearing my own old gear, or possibly worse, someone else's; just a situation I'd like to avoid. However, this doesn't stop me from wearing my 60s fatigue pants or WW2 style tanker jacket; nobody is going to ask me when I served, or even notice their ties to the military, because it's been so long since these items were actually worn as uniforms. As well as the fact that fashion culture has changed so dramatically since those times, you just don't see people returning from their time in the service needing to wear their uniforms as casual and work wear anymore.  

Edited May 28 by reubensangwich

[shredwin_206]

[l13902733261]

[mlwdp]

Does anyone here have the Neal Cassidy chambray shirt? What was your washing style for the shirt? Hand wash and line dry inside or outside or machine wash and machine dry?