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Flat Head SRJ-01 single rider's jacket, Freenote flannel, Hollows belt, Flat Head long wallet, Flat Head 3003xx, Wesco 7500.

Thrifted italian cardigan, LVC 55 & mizuno

Freewheelers. Merz. Boncoura. Catchball.

I get the attention to detail, the perfection of craft in deciding where value is in a garment. Speaking for myself only, that’s really only half the story. Some missed details really just don’t matter in any functional way, and don’t negatively impact aesthetics (depending on what aesthetics are appreciated). I wouldn’t buy these jackets because I just don’t like them, and I’m just not much a fan of what I’ve seen from TWC. Even their take on more widely available heritage patterns, I prefer the others more. I wouldn’t buy them for $4.50 let alone $450. Pattern matched or not. Maybe that would change if I got to try something on but that won’t happen. It makes sense to me given your particular work that you’d be so finely attuned to such things, but since I got interested in clothes in a deeper way I can’t say I’ve been blown away by the detail differences when it comes to functional quality. The Japan made stuff is, by and large, more nicely finished. But it isn’t, I would say (with some exceptions) a huge variation in finishing quality from a lot of older cheaper stuff that I’d had - at least in the aggregate. I’ve come across some poorly made things for sure, but as a whole - I find the value added for me is more in fabrics, materials and patterns as opposed to assembly. One example, a few months ago I purchased a boiled wool fleece jacket from de Bonne Facture, who pride themselves in making things in small ateliers in France. The label on the inside of the jacket is upside down! I can’t think of a more obvious visual oversight. They offered to exchange it, for me to send it back and them to fix it, or for them to reimburse me at a local tailor to do it. Nah, I kept it. I like it. I probably would keep misaligned patterns if I liked that jacket and it was otherwise not functionally compromised for it. Or like, the whole brand of Tender, lol. One of my favorites, if not favorite brand of all, and nearly every piece I have included some sort of wonkiness, and not necessarily even the sort that seems intended. Wouldn’t have it any other way. Different strokes!

No not at all! .. the AtLast Buffalo jacket is just a very poorly made garment.. folks skilled in the trade will take pride in making garments, matching patterns ..ect while less skilled folks just throw them together for a pay check. It you look at both versions posted, one has the pattern the correct way around while the other has the pattern the wrong way around.. if they were trying to replicate a period detail the pattern would be either the right or the wrong way for both.. they obviously didn't know or even care. Ok Marlon's jacket isn't the best but that doesn't make the AtLast jacket acceptable.. for instance, if i'd paid a carpenter to make me a bookshelf and it was all wonky.. i'd be pretty fucking annoyed about it.. if you showed me a picture of Marlon Brando stood next to a wonky bookshelf.. i'd still be pretty fucking annoyed about it. Are we to think Marlon's stamp of approval makes poorly made garments ok?.. who even says Marlon cared that his pattern didn't match.. i'm sure he didn't pay a Japanese clothing company who're supposed to be meticulous in such things $450 for it.. it could've been cheap af for all we know.. Lee Marvin could have bitten the pocket flap off in a barroom brawl.. Vivien Leigh might have stitched it back on after a few Highballs..

Bought this pair from zenmarket. Evisu is always loved!

Cross post from WAYWT. Picked up this old school Flat Head leather jacket off eBay recently. I've been on the lookout for a light brown leather jacket for a while and was thrilled to find one of these, especially since it was for a very reasonable price. Beautiful natural (or only very lightly pigmented) Shinki veg tan horsehide. Size 42, and fits right on point. It's interesting how different this jacket is in comparison to my black TFH jacket. The latter is made in their in-house Stockburg workshop with a more modern, trim fit, whereas these SRJ jackets were contracted to (if I remember right) a well-regarded small workshop that makes leather jackets. The fit on this jacket is a bit more relaxed and classically-proportioned. The sewing and overall quality on both jackets are extremely high, it's hard to say if one is better than the other. This jacket does, to me, really look and feel so much like a real vintage jacket from the 30s or 40s, but I admit I have less experience in this department than other folks. This one is bound to get lots of wear. I also picked up a used long wallet and rope which you can peek in the last shot, I'll post more details on that later.

There’s also Aero if you want red/black plaid in that style https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/mens/waterfront/mto088 Marlon’s had pretty iffy pattern matching!

About 25 years years ago I came across this random photograph of a young punk kid wearing a perfect vintage T shirt with an amazing graphic. It was in the contest issue of American Photo magazine, December 2000. I have been looking for one ever since. I have typed "Speedway Motors" into an Ebay search more times than I can ever recall and this hunt has largely fueled my vintage t shirt hobby and obsession. Once, I even tried tracking down the photographer. No luck. About a week ago I found one. Different graphic, different colors but similar font and logo and most importantly the right era. Might be an even better graphic. Certainly more unique. Also it was in my size and cheap. Of course I'm going to keep looking but I feel like I finally scratched a two decade long itch.

Single turn-up to mid shin or just below the knee, depending on the length of my socks.

I tend to prefer no cuff, but I've been wearing my current pair with a longer (than I was previously used to) single cuff or tighter double cuff because I didn't get them hemmed short enough. I like the way a tiny bit of stacking looks with a slimmer leg opening, but with wider leg openings the stacking becomes pooling, and looks terrible in my opinion.

I like a bit of variety on the jeans rail My cuffing depends on the particular jeans and my tastes at the time For example Big double cuff on At Last Co Very big single cuff on a pair of SCSC 42s I wear fully cinched Large single cuff on some FW 1937s Small single cuff on the slimmer WoMs, SCSC 43s and Denime 37s

Good denim-folk of sufu.. if you're anything like me you'll buy a ton of shit on the interwebz. Another forum i contribute to.. one of the members had 1000s of pounds stolen from his PP account, they did it via the automatic payments method.. ie unscrupulous sellers can set up pre approved auto-payments giving them access to take future payments.. it's a bit more convoluted than i'm alluding to but for the sake of this exercise.. i don't need to type out a detailed explanation.. just, for the sake of your financial health.. Open PP, go to Settings >Payments > Automatic Payments.. i've just found a list as long as your arm of 'Active' automatic payments dating back to 2011.. from fancy japanese tea companies to Sardinian car parking.. the only payments from the list which i would consider 'Active' would be Royal Mail and eBay so i've made the rest of the payees 'Inactive' .. i didn't even know this list of active payments existed?

Just picked my first cucumbers from my new garden, remembered when a hair dresser asked me if I grew my own food, ‘cause I seemed the type, gestured at my jeans don’t know if it was a compliment or not

My wife likes wearing my 60's Lee Stormrider.

Phone hole was getting a little out of control—time for the standard patch job It’s always lovely seeing the contrast between the worn and unworn denim when the pocket’s peeled up out of the way These jeans have been treating me well, so I decided to treat them to some fancier patch fabric. I’ve had this Buaisou-dyed ramie (middle) around for a couple of years waiting for the right project, and just recently picked up the two different cottons (top and bottom). First step is cleaning & patching the hole itself. I used the lighter indigo cotton for this: Once that’s done, I chalk out the shape of the lining-to-be, cut it, then pin & sew. Using the selvedge meant just a single line of stitching this time, nice & clean. I opted for the ramie for this; it’s got a fantastic dry hand: Then the pocket gets re-attached and we’re done! I didn’t have any of the right shade of yellow thread so I opted for twisting together a higher-gauge orange and white pair, à la SC Hawaii:

my buddy Jordan is a farmer back east. These are his Roy jeans. Probably the best fades I’ve ever seen.

At this point @Maynard Friedman, you may as well go thigh high and steal all our girls.

I like the variety too. Up until the last couple of years, I never cuffed. Now I have shallow, single, Japanese style and then no cuff. SOmetimes, it was purely because I couldnt be bothered to get them hemmed.

Thanks—yeah, Despondent Frog has been a very consistent motif around our house for the past while, so it felt like the only natural choice for a tag / logo All credit to Sage for vision + design + execution

Detail shots + Action shots

@CSL Shhhhhhh…I’m hunting wabbits just joking. It’s a great look! Barbour/Columbiaknit/pigeontree/TCB/LL bean

Just got some late 60s Wranglers. I assume 13MWZ, but maybe 11MWZ. These are a transitional pair with left hand twill and no Blue Bell logo. The fly facing looks like broken twill, but the rest of the jeans are left hand.

I haven't read the essays properly as I was on the move with no reading spex - I will look forward to that pleasure later

We know! I thought you'd tell by the Marlon Brando spiel

Agreed^ .. if the wonkyness is inherent within the brand ethos. I haven’t seen much from AtLast but I wouldn’t attribute wonkyness to the brand (it usually looks pretty clean) in this case it just looks like poor workmanship. Wonkyness or not.. all I ask is, if you want me to pay $450 for your garment then I want you to care about the way you make it.. I didn’t see much care taken in the above.

Aha so is this the jacket equivalent of Connor's jeans wonky stitching?!! @holden7 great value then mate! Costs will rise for this kind of gear 😁

Looking forward to the fit pics 😉😁

^ is the blindfold the selvedge cut off cuffs repurposed?

usually wear mine with a blindfold

NEW ARRIVALS FROM FLAT HEAD Three highly anticipated arrivals from Flat Head just hit our stores. Natural indigo denim and ultrasuede puffer vests are here. These are made from 12.5oz Japanese selvedge denim with natural-indigo warp yarns, a nylon lining, poly fill insulation, and an Ultrasuede yoke for elevated texture and durability. Finished with original Flat Head buttons and made in Japan, it delivers a warm but lightweight layer with the brand’s signature attention to detail. We also have received a small run of Flat Head Stockburg-Made Shinki Horsehide Single Rider’s jackets, and they looked fucking amazing. This jacket is crafted in Nagano, Japan in Flat Head's own leather workshop from 1.3mm vegetable-tanned Shinki horsehide with a semi-aniline finish that preserves the leather’s natural character while adding durability. It’s lined with red rayon kersey and finished with Flat Head–made hardware—including their original zipper and 100% steel buckles—along with all-Japanese trim. Sizes 38–44 feature a single back panel, while 46–49 use a split back panel, reflecting the brand’s commitment to precision construction. Lastly, we have some Military Cargo Pants which are made in Japan from a 9oz shuttle-loom woven cotton twill, offering a crisp hand and long-term durability. Cut with a medium rise and a straight leg with a slight taper, original Flat Head buttons, a zipper-fly, and are rinsed for easier sizing. Shop Flat Head Online: https://www.selfedge.com/the-flat-head

mmmm could carry a lot of cucumbers in those pockets https://totemshop.com/en-nz/collections/sassafras/products/sassafras-digs-crew-pants-4-5-olive

@tg76 Might be good idea to look at Sassafras gear just to lean into the whole looks 😉

I've got a couple of pairs of dry Momotaros (601, 901 if memory serves) I put on ice years ago.. will never fit into them now. Those have at least a 38" inseam, maybe 39. 33" waist on them; I remember thinking I could maybe pass them onto my son, but he ended up 6'3" and favours looser jeans – he didn't mind relieving me of my Orslow painter's pants and some FW 601xx '51 that I hadn't got around to hemming.

^ Yes, but only when I’m not wearing any socks.

Unlike DoubleO, I do like a multiple fold as I like the way the weight makes the jeans hang. That being said with my height it's rare I find a pair long enough for more than a double cuff. I suppose three fold would be the sweet spot. Regarding the width of the cuff I used to like 2.5-3 inch but generally opt for narrower these day. One advantage to the narrow cuff that I find useful is that you can flip it up a fold when wearing boots, and down one for shoes.

Went from 3” cuff to a small roll. agreed with double o his reasoning, specially with lighter jeans ss fullcount. but to lazy to do something about it. cant remember i wore an uncuffed jeans

I like a bit of variety, my current rotation has a decent size single cuff (inch and a half), 1 with a small single, a double cuff and 1 with no cuff. Up until a year or 2 ago it was always cuff.

I tend to get my jeans hemmed at point of purchase if they offer competent chainstitch hemming (Hoosier, Bears etc). I usually err on the inseam being still too long, sometimes way too much, usually accounting to fail for variance in rise. But I rarely will adjust the hem, so I just cuff whatever is left. Some of my jeans have a pretty thick one, but it tends to settle out with time enough for me, though a proper denim head may scoff. It's essentially laziness and rather going too long than too short. The jeans I'm wearing most now (the word of mouth contest jeans) I really hit the inseam pretty well so I wear them with a small single cuff or no cuff depending on my footwear really.

I'm tall enough that there are very few brands with an inseam long enough to even consider cuffing. I usually have the reverse issue, where anything marginally shorter than about 32.5" is unwearable for me. I need around 34" to have a break. TCB and Samurai are among the exceptions. For TCB, I was hemming for no cuffs. Lately, I've been enjoying a bit of a break and leave maybe an extra inch or two. Then I do a small double cuff if I feel like having a better drape. I'm not sure if I've run across a pair with a long enough inseam to even consider a really thick, Rockabilly-esque cuff.

The chat above reminded me of this post ^. Seiichiro sent me a 42 and a 44 in the special heavyweight sweatshirt above as I couldn't decide. Measurements above for 44 raw, 42 raw and 42 washed,

Nice vest!

Summer fun Had friends staying so took them for a bike ride, turns out we all ride Niners, parked up to look at an old bridge my partner reused on the bike path, Vietnamese coffee afterwards cause, yum. Back out on my bike a few days later as it was nice and overcast blue skies and scorching temps today so went out to the hanger to see what my partner was up to, there was a wings and wheels thing on. watched the warbirds do stuff for a while and was just about to head home when a friend asked if I wanted to go out in the Cub, sure. IMG_6380.mov wearing Blundstones, chinos and a black tshirt, my go to summer clothes.

FW WWII jacket. ROY R01 Nicks Boots

Nonnative Patagonia Phigvel Danner Light JP

Some thoughts on these… They feel like good vintage jeans. The denim is not dyed as dark as Levi’s or Lee from the same time period, but doesn’t have the blueberry blue color of modern Wranglers. There is quite a bit of weft showing, and the left hand twill looks like it has potential for some nice vertical fading. The front pockets are cut with extra room so it’s easy to slip your hands in, which is a nice touch. The back pockets are great with the crooked W and thin stitching. Belt loops have slightly raised centers. No selvedge or train tracks because of the flat felled outseam, but there is some nice roping starting to develop. Fit is perfect. I think these are a transitional pair between the Blue Bell years and the full introduction of broken twill and more modern manufacturing techniques. No care instructions and no Blue Bell put these probably around 1968-69. Overall, great jeans that are underrated. They’re not Big E Levi’s, but they don’t need to be. Can’t wait to see how they fade. I’ll post some comparison pics with some Denime wrangler repros I have. Shins did a good job with them. edit: I think these are 11MWZ not 13 MWZ. https://denimarchieves.com/e/vintage_and_old_denim_bottoms/wrangler_11mwz_1960slate_en.html Vs https://denimarchieves.com/e/vintage_and_old_denim_bottoms/wrangler_13mwz_1960slate_en.html

When to the Hong Kong local pop up market