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My initial post in the "Unknown Thread"

Hope the following clarifies the matter (google translate From “War Denim” book) During the war, did the denim of the 501XX become thicker and heavier? As I mentioned in the chapter on wartime models in my previous book, "Who Made the 501XX?", this legend began with a sentence in Ed Cray's book "Levi's" (published in 1981; the original book "Levi's. Ed Cray" was published in 1978) about the wartime 5011XX, "The weight of denim had increased to 13.5 ounces." In the previous book, I pointed out that Cray's 13.5 ounce theory was "unreliable." It is true that I have personally experienced that some 501XXs from the wartime era felt a little thicker than others. However, the guarantee tickets from before and during the war, which I also introduced in this book, are consistently stated as 10 ounces. I have not experienced the heaviness of this denim, which is advertised as 10 ounces, as being as heavy as 13.5 ounces. So I tried to measure the weight and denim thickness of brand new 501XXs from before and after the war. The measuring equipment was a Tanita digital cooking scale "KD-400" and a Shinwa Measurement Co., Ltd. digital thickness caliber "MODEL 73746" (measuring element diameter 10 mm, measuring force 1.1 N or less). Although it was not possible to standardize the waist size and length, the measurement results are shown in Table 5-A. The thickness was measured at the same four places on each denim, and the measured data is listed as it is so that the variation can be seen. The top five denims are 501XX and S501XX from Levis, which were also introduced in the color pages of this book. The exact year of manufacture of the pants is unknown, but it is a rough estimate based on information such as the flasher attached to them. The "c" stands for the Latin word circa, which means "around what year." As for the weight, the sizes are not the same so we cannot draw an accurate conclusion, but we cannot see a 35% increase from 10 ounces to 13.5 ounces. The wartime denim appears to be a little thicker, but it is not heavier. The fact that it looks thicker is because the unevenness of the fabric is reflected in the numbers. In the end, there was no evidence from the samples we tested that the fabric became heavier or thicker during the war. The weight of the c.1942 denim in the second row of Table 5-A is slightly heavier, which may be because it is denim from the time when Cone, a denim manufacturer introduced in Chapter 4, was forced to change the settings of its looms, etc. As mentioned in Chapter 4, Cone stated in a newspaper article that denim had become coarse during the war. At the time, it was an extraordinary situation where one person had to be in charge of 58 denim looms. Considering the circumstances at the time, the denim was made differently from the regular denim, with a rough finish, which resulted in them feeling thick... I speculate that this may be the true nature of the legend. Of course, we cannot deny the possibility that such thick pants were produced only temporarily during the war, and that we simply have not encountered them. (This article was based on the verification method used by the blog "Denim Archives." We would like to thank the administrator, Ueda Kenji.)

I thought these At Last pants that I got from Brogueshop the other day, could benefit from a proper trouser cuff, and creases. Today I tackled the job. I'd forgotten what a pain in the ass it is to do this kind of cuff, especially if there's any kind of taper to the lower leg. I'll spare you all the details. The end result look decent.

Flasher of the jeans used in the above table: 1940 1942 1943 1945 1946

Tender Co. for textiles, Hollows + Russell for leather

*Vtg The Rat Hole/Big Daddy Rat (Fink) Tee *Vtg studded leather belt *Blanket pin *Bronson MFG 1936 Lee Cowboy repro buckleback jeans *Vtg Tony Lama Black Label cowboy boots w/ Vibram work soles

Besides working with Jelado he has also made a 506 type 1 jacket and 1937 jeans for Cushman both with the Solide buckle/cinch. And I think he also made the pocket t-shirts for Cushman.

The run of cinch back jeans he made for Silver & Gold are still available in a few sizes: https://store.silver-and-gold.com/?pid=155995484 https://www.instagram.com/p/CnLmeU7v09x/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Here's his website, it covers a few of his other projects: https://rebuilt.jp/ Need to wash and take some photos of my pair, I enjoy them but they're the slightest bit too tapered at the hem in my opinion. @julian-wolf I think he's paused on taking orders for the time being, however I haven't spoken with him in awhile now. Should reach out and see how he's doing. He is still making the YM Factory tees, and I've never seen them without a pocket. But he's made some other variations without a pocket, never tried them out. There's some more info on the website.

warehouse wom-comp-ers birks

https://rebuilt.jp/ https://www.instagram.com/rebuilt.jp/ I think enough people here have a pair of Ono-san's jeans that it warrants its own thread.

Knew l'd seen those 1940/1941 bucklebacks before, they are owned by the Jukebox guy. They are identical (in terms of patch, flasher and guarantee ticket) to the pair in the 501XX book which are labelled as a rare transitional model, made in 1941. Here is a post on lg showing them to be a 1937 model(?) So in conclusion, they are a late 30s/early 40s model 501XX 😂

Whitesville T Cabourn belt Attractions trouser Sperry X Todd Snyder mocs

@redragon Thanks a bunch for that info btw Interesting that the reverse yoke model is dated at c.1940. I wonder what the actual dates are for that model. Normally the reverse yoke is just stated a flat 1941 model, which is vague at best. Would love any insight into the actual date that this decision was made (probably by Milton Grunbaum l would imagine) but l doubt that info is in the book??

Are you still after a 60/40 mountain parka @julian-wolf ? Check this out.. might be one size too small. NOS MJ-836 https://zenmarket.jp/auction.aspx?itemCode=g1169388975&_gl=1*1mo0985*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQjws4fEBhD-ARIsACC3d2-lzXxZsWDP9wr0I2_yuddF6Hz8HEr2dGsmSl9lapDh8WMeAaYLk4waAq0eEALw_wcB

My previous wallet went kaput so my girl got me a CP tan wallet. Looking forward to getting a patina on this.

Freenote Hawaiian shirt, JCrew tee, Hollows belt, Flat Head 3003xx, Wesco 7500 boots.

Been loving this since I picked it up in March. Put 3000 miles on it since then.

The book also covers the changes in weight calculation after the war, can get it up here if anyone’s interested…

Thank you both, might pick up a few books from Amazon JP!

@Broark

I posted it in the denim books thread

Yes he is doing a lot of OEM work these days. Last release of his jeans were April 2024. I don't know but hope he will do some work for his brand again

got hands on the free land 1920s chore: raw deetz (pretty starchy tough for a lighterweight denim) then fit (post 40c short wash n line dry)

..for Dawson or the UK as a whole?

Check in 7.22.25. Now the heat's on I'm not wearing them as much as I'd like, but I think some evolution is evident.

Couple of days ago… Sassafras X Post Overall 45R A.S.P

By the way here are some pics of the Dapper's LOT1272 One Piece Of Rock S406XXX M-47 (BDa1243). Barnstormers gives these measurements for the N/W. サイズ 38 肩幅44cm 身幅51cm 着丈58cm 袖丈60cm 40 肩幅46cm 身幅54cm 着丈59cm 袖丈61cm

You’re thinking of the 22501 - which is a different pair from the 22501XX, even though on paper they read identical. That model (22501) was reissued at least once Different denim, different cut/fit, seemingly modeled after different pairs of S501XX (it’s how I reason the stark differences) - these 22501XX use CSF WW2 denim, and the pair of 22501 I had used the Miura denim iirc I have the Dappers CSF S406XXX M-WW2 jacket, and CSF S406XXX M-46 jacket. I am Not sure if the Dappers collab jackets have been reissued Fit between the M-WW2 and M-46 would be the M-46 is slimmer through the chest and sleeves Photos of both: M-WW2 CSF for Dappers M-46 CSF house brand

Great Lakes / Warehouse x Rocky Mountain / Tezomeya / Duke / Cane’s / Russell

Same old everything. The T shirt has one of those sparkly iron ons that were everywhere after Superman '78 came out. Jeans are nearing 4 months. Cut my hair the next day.

Think this is some of the heaviest fades I've come across so far of the Warehouse Greenbaum denim. Getting cigarette burn repair at Rockets https://www.instagram.com/p/DLRA2K-TWNK/?img_index=1

.. dried out

One star card holder in natural chromexcel

Toyko Edition in a raw state (but seems to be tried on/worn) https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/special/order/confirm/https%3A%2F%2Fjp.mercari.com%2Fitem%2Fm85504928437/13_1/

So which one of you was it that neglected to turn in your jeans for the bonfire?? https://jp.mercari.com/item/m46218017480

Going down memory lane... ~10 years old boro sashiko old man & the sea hat, arguably still one of their best pieces. Very well faded now.... Added the vertical stitching myself just for fun some time ago

Bump Denime 10th Anniversary 1937s... tip off from my pal @beautiful_FrEaK... I need to wear these more...