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Another wash

Ooe SOA03 and an incredible belt from Duke

Freewheelers x 3 / Warehouse, with thanks to @Geeman / @Duke Mantee

I've just updated my WH 506 flipbook with before and after wash photos ..here are some more post-wash photos besides

Thank you for this @merzbot! I want to do a superfuture-level rundown on the Working SKEWed jeans in the next week or so, but actually I just came on to show some details of the 900 Bull Denim, so good timing. This fabric is woven with a 100% cotton warp and a 50/50 wool/hemp weft. Generally speaking, dyes react differently with cellulose fibres (eg cotton, linen) and protein fibres (eg wool, silk), and even more generally speaking dyes stick better to protein than to cellulose. This can be quite subtle, for example with woad, where the blue is relatively deep across all the fibres in the fabric (with the original undyed fabric below): the khaki, particularly, took to the wool much more readily than to the cotton or hemp, creating a sort of turquoise wool fuzz over the top of a paler green cotton/hemp ground: lastly, though, here's a version which is a little more subtle, but which I'm really excited by. This is dyed hadal blue with a formula that reacts only with wool, so that the cotton and hemp remain completely undyed. It gives the effect of a fabric woven with an undyed warp and a melange fibre dyed warp, where dyed wool is spun with undyed hemp, but all with a single garment dye. The jacket reads as denim, but with the softness and lightness of the bull denim cloth.

denim pullover aging really nicely

1922 601xx and wwii type 1

Baracuta, Warehouse, 3sixteen, Chucks

Going down memory lane... ~10 years old boro sashiko old man & the sea hat, arguably still one of their best pieces. Very well faded now.... Added the vertical stitching myself just for fun some time ago

I’ve heard about people like you…

JMM Blluemade an oldie from Ooe Yofukuten-melton wool vest duke belt word of mouth contest jeans clinch Gary boots thanks to @Broark for helping me find this vest

Some nice garb there @tooth .. i like this style, my neighbours daughter and cat sitter is the embodiment of it.. lots of layers, lots of hand dying, lots of patching and repairs, lots of linen and shapeless knitwear.. i used to love looking at their washing line on her laundry day but rather than expensive brands, her style is either vintage or re-cut vintage where she has bought oversize menswear, unpicked the pattern and cut/sewed it into something that works for her.. alas, she now lives in a yoga retreat in Wales where she works as a gardener... 'gardening, commune, yoga, mindfulness chic'

UNIF Fuzzy sweater Denim vest People Power Phillipines Yellow Revolution T Vintage studded belt Wide leg sevedge denim from...Target! 1960S ACME Thunderbird boots

Tucked or untucked I can never decide M&S, TCB 50s, Clarks

Phigvel henley phigvel 302 Vans

Hard to capture but I‘ve never had a jean hairy like this 54…and it seems to get more. Looks like a wool pant 🙂

Another potential issue to keep in mind is that you don't want to take width out to the point where the pleats are pulling. That's a bad look. And remember having your phone and wallet in the back pockets affects this too.

WORKING has been landing at stockists the last few weeks. SKEWed x WORKINGWORKING PULLOVER JACKET（PINK） - The Tastemakers & Co. ONLINE SHOP TENDER STORES | WORKING SLACK JEAN This project really excites me. It's neat to the see the influence of Rob's time at Stone Island and CP Company showing in the designs. My introduction to this world came while trawling the internet in the early 2000s for 'British streetwear' and discovering Jeff Griffin Studio 😄 Of the recent Type 900 Jackets, the Turquoise and Prussian Blue are my picks. The way the olivewood buttons contrast with each shade is gorgeous!

This article is well worth a read: Inside the Other Paris Fashion Week | GQ Of the brands/designers mentioned, I'd guess Man-tle and Evan Kinori would be right up your wicket. They both make use of small batch/one off/deadstock textiles (though EK seems to be working to develop his own fabrics now). The aforementioned Tender does this to great effect with the Weaver's Stock garments. While you'll see the same patterns/designs from these brands reappearing over the years, the use of deadstock fabrics gives each collection an ephemeral nature. Neighbour stocks most of the brands mentioned in this discussion: Shirts Mens – Neighbour Also, @tooth big up to BlkBlu!

I had the raw issue some 14 or 15 years ago and l definitely remember it not shrinking. Actually l may be wrong and it may just be my memory that's shrinking. A shrink to fit memory maybe. I always thought that the neck label looked a bit goofy.

@Well27 There’s a shop here in the town I live that has a penchant for this style… I can say that the labels they carry are great, and if you’re looking for interesting fabrics, dyeing techniques, laid back loose vibes they may be worth checking out. To name a few: Taiga Takahashi, EG, Herill, Auralee, Camiel Fortgens, Monostereo, Niceness, and as previously mentioned by @ATWM Cottle and Story Mfg. (and, yes, prices are out there…). I don’t own any pieces by these brands as they don’t really resonate with my ‘style’ (or lack there of, honestly), but I certainly appreciate what they’re doing.

Rain kind of day...

American Optical, Sugar Cane, RRL, Coronado Leather, LVC, Padmore & Barnes

Thanks yeah good call. I might actually just leave it, they’re such nice pants and to be honest once they’ve had a few wears it’ll possibly settle a lot. It’s still a pretty stiff fabric. Also making sure they’re worn high enough helps. I’m used to wearing high waisted but it seems more crucial to keep these at the right height for the right silhouette. I’ll post some pics in them in WAYWT at some point.

Visvim is should definitely be in the same conversation even though their price point more closely resembles designers clothing of high fashion...

I’d also mention the shop in my town - it’s too funky for me by half a lot of the time, but it’s also one of the best small men’s shops in my region of the country, much better than a college town shop has any right to be. It’s honestly better than any shop even in Chicago to my mind - but when it comes to denim that’s not their overall strong suit. They stock Kapital and will be stocking Tender though. It’s fun to look at what they curate and a look through their brands might reveal something.

Thanks! I’m not too knowledgable about adjustments really as I’ve only ever had hemming and tapering done. It sounds like darting a pleat might be feasible, it’s only a slight adjustment I’m looking for. I’ll take them to a tailor and see how I get on.

@Well27 I’m a big fan of both Tender and (some of) Kapital, but part of what makes them what they are is that there are not other makers with the same style. The other brand that is more in the denim world is of course 45R, but internationally quite pricey, so I’ve avoided. A lot of (Western) stores that carry the Kapital etc are the best bet for other makers in that realm - some are Story Mfg., A Kind of Guise, Arpenteur … there are more. I’m not a big fan of them though, or rather would rather Tender or Freewheelers. A very nice workwear inspired French brand is de Bonne Facture. Pricey but sometimes more easily available, and all or mostly made in France - I like some of their stuff and have a some of their trousers. A few others I like (again, for select stuff…I wouldn’t say I’m a fan of the overall vision) are Blue Blue Japan and Cottle. Cottle is expensive to the point of laughing, so I haven’t looked for a few years but always sort of liked the approach. My other favorite is Inis Meain - specifically for wool and linen - some of the best knits I’ve come across.

Beautiful boots. Perfect shape, great heels...but a minor quibble: those look like traditional semi round, almond toe or maybe a J or toe. Snip toes look "snipped" with a blunt tip and d Tony Lama has a very blunt structured toe on their snips. Unmistakable in profile. These are just a few styles. There are dozens of name and shape variations by both region and maker.

Bought this wonderful 1920‘s chambray shirt. Amazing quality.

Back in uniform. Freewheelers, Two Moons, Freshly washed WMJ, Tender

Post polish RW merchants I got in 2017.

Me: Stepladder Ranch / The Vanishing West / Tezomeya / Duke / Word of Mouth / The Flat Head Dog: The Real McCoy’s

Tender shades / The Vanishing West ‘47 506xx / Power Wear x Motor Psyclone / new from Duke / contest jeans / old TFH kicks

My boy buys records, he is building a small collection. when we visit city’s, he always seeks out record stores, most of the time we end up in nice neighborhoods that way. in Paris he became all budy budy with the shop owner. i guess he was happy to see a young kid diving in the crates

Down in Cornwall for the weekend: Tender, orSlow, Gustin

My next door neighbour (who was born in Hackney) gave my son some 80s / 90s era vintage footy shirts a few months ago.. he's not really into football but he does like the attention.. he was walking through the park wearing a purple Tottenham Hotspur shirt from the 90s with a pair of baggy Levi's and some Jordans.. a runner ran past and shouted "Up the Spurs" to him. I'll tell ya' what, Spotify / apple et al.. have completely ruined the 'album' as an artform, my kid has had a pair of fancy headphones perma stuck to his head for the last year or so.. before that it was airpods.. he's never not listening to music.. evn when we're playing tennis, he's wearing headphones I hear a tune he's playing by whoever and say.. "Have you listened to any of their albums" "No, just this song and maybe one other" "I've got all their albums on CD.. check out such n' such album.. it's incredible" "Are all the songs as good as this one" "Well no, that's probably the standout track of the album, but it's a body of work by that artist, evn the track listing will have been carefully considered" .. "So it's 10 tracks and 9 of them are not as good as this one" "Yes that's correct, a couple of them could even be shite but that's not the point" .. "So then Dad.. with all the incredible music in the world, you want me to spend time listening to music which isn't as good as the music i'm listening to now, just because it's on an album?" "Yes exactly"

FW wwii type 1 FW 1922 jeans

Rockets are getting a much needed wash so I’ve been in my TCB 50s and SC41001 instead Ebbets Field/J Press/TCB/Tony Lama Here is a better shot of the boots along with some bonus TCB roping and train tracks. They’re caribou Tony Lama gold label snip toes, probably from the 70-80s

In bloom SC / Sun ray sportsware / Belt by Duke (non-vis) / 3sixteen / Flower Mountain

Rototo / TCB / Freewheelers / Canes / Warehouse... with a big thanks to another top bloke @Geeman for the sneakers

Snagged these 22501XX from @srudy last month, and by chance started wearing them on 5/01 day I love this denim and lucked out on the fit - they fit me as good as anything else ever has The cut is real good in contrast to the "22501" cut I had some years back - and at a tagged 34 they measure about 31" after a shrink That's barely 1" larger post shrink than the tagged 28 waist "22501" (a different cut but 6 tagged sizes smaller...) Not exactly an apples to apples comparison, but a WW2 501 jean under the same umbrella having such a massive disparity in sizing is... interesting!

I'm on a roof. Gildan, diy, rrr, boa

It occurred to me that I've rarely worn this Ooe jacket which I got at Inspiration a few years ago. I'd been thinking about dying it with tea to take the edge off the white-ish fabric. Today I decided to take the leap and dunk it in a large pan of hot tea (I've been saving used bags for a while). Also worn: Rising Sun cap, Dubbleworks, WOM, Novesta.

Slash / Freewheelers / Codina / SC 1943 / Nicks

Hansen / Orcival / SC / Flower Mountain

Getting buzzed... American Optical, 3sixteen, Vintage Shirt, LVC, Stepney Workers Club

I was a bit hesitant at first about the vertical fading. But with FWs one can trust that things will looking aesthetically. And with the fading pics here, foremost by fader extraordinaire @shredwin_206, my concerns were allayed and I got a pair as I was curious what their WWII denim was like. And I wasn't disappointed. Neither by the cut. Wearing them feels really good.