Tender Co. Denim

[grooveholmes]

Nice pickup, wgmds. How are they fitting around the waist? A little more loose than anticipated? Post measurements if you can, please... I was surprised by mine-- it was a bit more waist than I thought based on measurements online. I've sent mine off to Schaeffer's for a hemming and ch-stitch.

[wgmds]

i know theyre super big, but hell, ive got a pair of 660s and now these. worst comes to worst ill throw them in the supermarket for a pair of 700s.

sizing. warehouses are about a 30 and the tenders are about a 31. i bet, if i really need to, i could shrink an inch off in terribly hot water.

[rodeo bill]

hey hey hey. the top of the pockets are THICK AS HELL.

thanks for putting pics up! I was just in philadelphia(ish) actually, Would have been so cool to see you in the street. Re suspender buttons, I guess now you've seen the buttons in person you'll agree that the brass buttons would be too heavy/big, and you'd have to cut buttonholes for them to sit into in the waist band. I'd go for something flatter- corozo maybe?

re the fit, and the thickness at the pocket tops- these will soften up a LOT with some wear. They've been line dried after dyeing, and the fabric isn't de-sized, so there's a lot of stiffness which will emphasize the hip/seat flare. Give it a couple of months and this will soften down and fit really nicely I think. Actually I really like the look of the fit from the side [above], where you can't see the stiffness at the top. The pocket top is purposefully cut like that- I don't remember if I explained this at the beginning of the thread, but the idea is that rather than cutting a regular scoop pocket (think 5 pocket), which I find can be a bit restrictive, and can bust out with wear, a straight pocket, cut on the bias (diagonal) will stretch out with time. Bias fabric stretched a lot more than straight fabric, so to stop the pocket stretching out completely, to the point where the seam might break, I added in a strip of selvage (the tightest-woven part of the fabric) inside the pocket seam. This is a trick that comes from tailoring a bespoke waistcoat- you cut the front opening at an abgle, but you don't want it to stretch and gape, so you sew a straight 'stay tape' into the seam.

Here's the new pocket (hot soaked undyed denim):

Here's the pocket with about 3 months wear (weld dyed, what I'm wearing myself at the moment):

And here's the pocket after a couple of years of serious abuse (indigo dyed):

notice that in the 3rd pic the pocket's stretched out enough that it's really easy to get into (it's a 3D curve, rather than the 2D curve you'd get on a scoop pocket), but the strip of selvage inside has stopped the fabric from stretching out totally, which would cause the seam to collapse.

hope that made sense?

thanks for all the nice comments chaps Jelmer, good to mail with you, sorted in PM

[akka225]

you really like this????? doesn't that hurt your credibility? lol

thanks for putting pics up! I was just in philadelphia(ish) actually, Would have been so cool to see you in the street.

Give it a couple of months and this will soften down and fit really nicely I think.

Actually I really like the look of the fit

[Joseph Hill]

^No.

......

[grooveholmes]

Even in jest, not even a proper way to voice your difference of opinion. The cut is wonderful: conceived by way of years of experience, and constructed with the utmost care and intention. If you'd have bothered to have read even 3 random pages of this thread, you'd realize how truly daft your opinion is.

[akka225]

Even in jest, not even a proper way to voice your difference of opinion. The cut is wonderful: conceived by way of years of experience, and constructed with the utmost care and intention. If you'd have bothered to have read even 3 random pages of this thread, you'd realize how truly daft your opinion is.

i wasn't critiquing the cut. if i wanted to, i don't see how experience, utmost care, intention, construction, blah blah blah blah blah would make it unassailable.

i've followed this thread since it began and have tried on and handled multiple tender pieces. i'm well aware of the fact that the designer dunks items into buckets of indigo (by hand!) and has hired random people to sew for him. so what?

all i was doing was highlighting the designer's encouragement of wgmds after he posted the most ludicrous pics on sufu in months.

[grooveholmes]

No, it doesn't make it "unassailable", but you've missed the point completely. I'll let you re-read my post and you still don't get it, it's not even worth further response.

[akka225]

Insofar as I voiced an opinion in my initial post, it was that rodeo bill's encouragement of wgmds deserved attention.

According to your reply, that opinion was not "properly" voiced. You then go on to praise the cut of the jeans, citing abstract concepts, and conclude that if i read three random pages of this thread i would realize my opinion was "truly daft."

I think you misunderstood my initial post: I was questioning rodeo bill's credibility as a poster, not necessarily conflating it with his credibility/ability as a clothing designer and seller. But we should question both - that's one of the differences between a forum and ad space, and, as I see it, kind of the point of this thread.

[rnrswitch]

Here's the new pocket (hot soaked undyed denim):

Here's the pocket with about 3 months wear (weld dyed, what I'm wearing myself at the moment):

And here's the pocket after a couple of years of serious abuse (indigo dyed):

I love the evolution of the pockets. Third pic's denim is subtly beautiful. Is it the same as the other pics?

[onehundy]

Where can I find a pair? Unionmade seems to have sold out..

[grooveholmes]

http://madebytender.com/

In the US:

Douglas Fir, LA

Hickoree's, NYC

Lyon State, Gulf Shores AL

Need Supply, Richond VA (NICE!)

Unionmade, SF

Good luck!

[rodeo bill]

Is it the same as the other pics?

thanks! actually the third pair is the original prototype for my jeans, and it's a slightly different fabric from production (production is a bit hairier (unsinged), and has more dips in the rope dyeing, but the construction's the same). The colour comes from the indigo dyeing against quite a lot of washing during their wear-time. I've come round to feeling that washing jeans quite a bit gives more interesting fades than never-washed contrasts. The second pair in the row (weld dyed 130) is coming on quite nicely- I'll post up some pics in a couple more months.

onehundy, the first season's pretty much sold out now, sorry about that, and i've only delivered a few pieces of the new season. Everything should finally be out end of this week though, so shops should have stock online/in store in the next couple of weeks.

[grooveholmes]

Got my pair back from Schaeffer's yesterday. Hem and chainstitch complete. I normally prefer a large, single cuff where possible, but I find that a double works best for these. Another observation since getting these back: these denim pocket bags are pretty damn sturdy and deep.

[commodorewheeler]

Was taking fit pics of a pair of jeans for one of the contest threads and decided to throw on the Type 900 jacket:

[rodeo bill]

Lovely stuff:) Thanks for posting. Grooveholmes, those look great, and really nice colour matching the chainstitch thread. Someone asked a couple of pages back how I wear my cuffs? It varies, but normally I go for a triple roll, so I don;'t hem them , but they end up pretty short- I like the bulk/shape at the ankle, and as I mostly wear boots I think it looks nice.

Here's my pair of weld-dyed type 130, which I've been wearing about 4 months I think, washed maybe 3 or 4 times. It's a cliche, but the colour's really difficult to photograph. The detail pics at the bottoms are closest, but it looks a lot more yellow in real life...

[rodeo bill]

Since I put those pics up, maybe I should explain the coin pocket, or more properly, snob's thumb pocket! As I'm sure I mentioned, I trained with a bespoke tailor, and I really love hand made clothes in all forms. I've been really lucky to come across some really nice pieces over the years, including these silk velvet court dress breeches, made by Davies & Sons when they were on Hanover St, in Mayfair (now on Savile Row). These would be worn with silk stockings, and are cut HIGH

some fit pics (not the usual sufu fare, hope this makes a nice change:p)

and the important one:

this is known as a 'snob's thumb pocket'- it's the only pocket on this type of trousers, and would be used as a watch pocket, or to thrust your thumbs into (hence the name). On earlier (late C18th) pairs I've seen there are 2 pockets, one each side. Watches were so inaccurate that you would have two, and take an average!

I really liked the look of this pocket, and thought it would work very well with jeans. I always find the coin pocket on traditional 5pockets a bit frustrating- if you're wearing a heavy belt it can be really difficult to get into, but on the other hand I also sometimes find I get my fingers catching on it when I'm puttinhg my hand in the main pocket. Also because it starts relatively low, by the time you get down to the bottom of the pocket you're so far down inside the main pocket that it can be really difficult to get at anything in there. By putting the pocket behind and above the waistband/belt (see jeans pics above), it's easy to get into and high enough up that you can actually use it. Also the little facing makes it easier to find/get into.

The facing itself is made from English-woven selvage calico, cut loose, on the selvage- the lower edge of the facing is selvage, and not sewn down, so you can tuck cash etc up inside it.

[mikecch]

^ +rep, thanks for the pictures and knowledge rodeo bill

[grooveholmes]

Really great idea to "re-introduce" the snob's pocket for us commoners. I never would have thought that English gentlemen back in the day put their watches in their pants.. rather in their vest pockets or jackets. I almost prefer this feature to the coin pocket, for the reasons you've mentioned. Cool.

[gregd]

I picked up a pair of indigo died 130s in Few and Far yesterday - they have stock if anyone in London is looking. They gave me coffee as I sat down, hung out and thought about the fit! The size 5 was too big - but the size 4 was a little tighter than I like around the waist. However the rest of the fit was fantastic - so decided to go with them. Wore them out last night and they were comfortable.

They are pretty long - so doubled up the turn-ups. The blue die makes them look really good.. Was planning to hem them - but I think I'll leave it for now.

The pockets are really nice - very strong - and easy to get your hand in.

[gregd]

PS They come with a signed note from William - I have product 140! Amazing we have 35 pages of discussion here and there are less than 150 garments so far.

Think this is new - didn't get this with the jacket or belt last year

[viv1984viv]

Just thought I'd post to say an interview with William from Tender is now up on my denim blog: http://amerkaji-meme.blogspot.com/

[grooveholmes]

That's a nice little interview you conducted-- I enjoyed reading it. Thanks for sharing!

@gregd: NIce pickup. Please post fit pics when/if you can! Mine were #37. Every time I wear 'em, the fit, cut, details amaze me.

[rodeo bill]

a little shameless plug- I met up with these guys a couple of weeks ago in New York. There are some little previews of the new season, and also a few glimpses of next season, which people might be interested in

[rodeo bill]

so here's a little bit about the shirts I've done. Looking into shirts I got really into the idea that they were originally underwear, to be worn underneath a vest and coat. Working men might be seen in shirtsleeves, but they would certainly not be considered presentable in polite society. The high class man would in fact have separate fabric (lace, or later starched linen) at the only points were the undergarment was visible, at the wrist and neck. These evolved, of course, to today's collar and cuffs. Then I found worker's shirts with no cuffs, which were worn short at the wrist so as not to get in the way of machinery etc, and it seemed to fall together nicely!

My shirt is loosely based on an English pattern from c.1700. It;s a pullover, and cut completely square at the shoulder, cut across the piece, folded along the shoulder line, so the front and back hem are each selvage of the fabric. The cloth is an English-woven natural cotton calico. To stop the feeling getting too costumey the construction is definitely jeans-based, and the buttons are cast aluminium cat's-eyes.

because it's cut one piece, selvage-to-selvage, the body is quite short, and the sleeves are cut without cuffs, based on old workers pictures, where underwear shirts were worn without cuffs- I think this works really well as a nice easy alternative to a normal button-down shirt. The front is pleated below the placket (plackets are loose, both cut on the selvage too:

), and there's an inverted box pleat into the back of the collar, to compensate for the square shoulders. The collar's made in one piece, with no collar stand, cut and put on like a Levi type 1 jeans jacket collar.

Following some really great Railway uniform garments I found, with depot details, manufacturer name etc rubber stamped onto the fabric, I made up stamps for the washing instructions, hand stamped in black ink onto the hem, just above the selvage. This will slowly wash out, which will be really nice as the shirts get older.

This model's in hand dyed woad (natural blue) and weld (natural yellow), and also semi-bleached. By bleaching the raw calico after it's made into a garment you get a really nice warm beige natural cotton colour in the seams, where the cloth is layered up, while the main panels go completely bleached white.

[madstaxbro]

One of the most interesting brands I have seen from concepts to creation. Maybe one day when I am finally man-sized I'll be able to try on one of these awesome pieces.

[Denton]

are you only 12 or something?

bill how long are the shirts? I assume the fabric comes from 30-inch looms...?

[madstaxbro]

No just thin. The smallest Tender jeans I've seen were about 30W.

[rodeo bill]

hi chaps,

just updated the above post with some photos^^

madstax, thanks! You're right, at the moment the smallest size is 2 (30" waist jeans), but you may be in luck- from next season on I'll probably add a size 1 (28"), for Japan, but it should be available. But maybe by then (September or so), you'll have filled out:rolleyes:

Denton- here's a photo of the shirt, size 3, on:

I'm really a size 4 (L) though.... The shirt is cut across the fabric, so the total length of the shirt from front hem to back hem is one piece- the fabric width. The calico itself is woven at around 54", but after shrinkage in the dyeing/bleaching it ends up at a shirt length of 26". Obviously this is the same length across all the different sizes, so there's no size 5 (XL) in this style- it was going to be disproportionately short.

[rodeo bill]

here a few little pics taken by the lovely staff at Nestrobe, in Omotosando, Tokyo, showing this shirt, and some other bits and bobs from the 2nd season: