Tender Co. Denim

[BillWho?]

Gave them another hand wash with Bronners this time. Just a bit of the dye funk in them still. Really would them not stink BEFORE I started wearing them....

[cool_hand]

What is the difference between the Tender Bank Note Shirt, Tender Ticking Stripe Long Sleeve Shirt and the previous Ticking Tail Shirts?

I can see the buttons have changed but is the cut and fit basically the same?

[rodeo bill]

cut and fit are basically the same, yes. they're new fabrics and colours though. The new tickings are much lighter-weight than before, and the bank note cambric is finer/softer. the buttons in this production are black plastic savile row tailor's fly buttons, rather than the rubber rugby shirt buttons in the last production. Also new this time are shortsleeve versions, without pockets. I've not worn a shortsleeve shirt for ages, but I'm really enjoying it! the fit is still a bit oversized, and can be worn over a Tshirt:

size 3 verdigris dyed bank note cambric short sleeve type 428, bape Tshirt, deadstock british rail overall pants, rayban frames, angelus watch, iittala mug

[Big Eyed Fish]

Hi! Does anyone know how big is the thigh on a 130 in size 4? thanks

[satchelbmoore]

^ what color/finish? it varies based on the temperature or the dye/wash bath.

[Big Eyed Fish]

^ what color/finish? it varies based on the temperature or the dye/wash bath.

^ what color/finish? it varies based on the temperature or the dye/wash bath.

interessted in the 130 which is dyed with French woad

[Graeme]

I've got a pair of the Blackout edition of the Type 130 that Tender did for Tenue De Nimes. They're a size 4.

The thigh is about 13" to 13.5" at the top, dropping very quickly down to 12". (About 3" down the leg.)

[rodeo bill]

^thanks graeme

we've been doing a bit of gardening today, and i thought i'd pot up something in one of the flower pots from the trestle shop. these are hand thrown from english red clay, and come with their own glazed dish, and unglazed pebble (to cover the drainage hole):

in goes some nice fresh earth from the garden:

and a little seedling nicotiana, tobacco plant (not the smokable variety, but they have lovely green flowers towards the end of the spring):

flower pots are in stock here, and the tobacco plants came from the excellent neal's nurseries, in wandsworth

[Mvk190]

A little teaser for a project William and I are doing, more info later!

[Ghost Cat]

Overalls? And I see a leather Tender patch, is that going to be a new feature on the other products? I have to say, the only thing I feel my 129s are missing is a leather patch. I even considered making my own so I could some leather age and darken as the jeans age and lighten.

[Youthxattak]

Today I had a little extra time of my hands so I figured I would take a couple shots of my Tender collection so far..

Ive posted pics of my 129 wattle beaverteens before and my 130 indigo overdyedas well but I havent posted a picture of my tops yet.

My first tees from Tender were my Fox tee and my woad dyed tee. These two have also remained my favorite. These shirts both had a wider neck line and overall slightly loser fit than my other tees. (all my Rees are a size 3).

My weld dyed tee was next. This shirt I ordered from Okiya. Probably the furthest away I've ever ordered an item. This shirt originally had a more distinct 2 tone effect on the sleeves. However after much love this shirt has mutes to a very soft yellow with only a subtle transition between sleeve and body.

Next I ordered my first Tender 420 long tail shirt. I was super stoked to break in this bad boy.

My wife used to give me a ton of grief over it but now she grown to just accept it. The cut is different than anything else I personally have worn. This shirt is a size 2. I sized down and really couldn't be happier. If I tuck it in the side pockets are still above my waist band. Kinda bummed that the new short sleeves didn't come with the same pockets. That would've been pretty awesome.

My logwood Henley was next. I had trouble deciding between the logwood and the hickorees logwood however the original won out due to its metal buttons which add a really nice touch.

My most recent shirt is my Type 350 Gerald graphic.This tee features the ribbed bottom which was new for me since all my other tees features a curved hem. This shirt is also a lot lighter fabric and a little bit tighter than my other shirts. The more I've worn it the more it's loosened up but if it went in the dryer I'm sure itd be hasta la vista.

[Youthxattak]

Last but not least..

Just a few random shots for fun.

First my Tender apron which Will was able to help me track down.

The stamp on the inside is super neat.

Next is just an overall shot of my collection. Living in Florida... Tee shirts are less of a decision and more of a necessity. Already we are having days up to 87 Fahrenheit so it's looking like it will be almost unbearable soon..

**side note.. Has anyone spotted any tender shorts coming out this season?

Last is just a fun shot of some of the tags I've gathered up so far. Super nerdy to hold on to this stuff I know but i have my own battles with hoarding just as much as the next guy. I took and front and back shot if anyone wants to read what each card is for.

[Ghost Cat]

How do you pose the exact same way in every photo? Are you secretly a mannequin with killer style?

[Youthxattak]

How do you pose the exact same way in every photo? Are you secretly a mannequin with killer style?

Bhahaha. Worst model ever. Definately did not think about that fact.

Should've tried some different moves I guess. I'll be sure to pull out all the stops when I do my Tender co bathing suit calendar!

[Mvk190]

Overalls? And I see a leather Tender patch, is that going to be a new feature on the other products? I have to say, the only thing I feel my 129s are missing is a leather patch. I even considered making my own so I could some leather age and darken as the jeans age and lighten.

High waisted jeans with suspenders I don't think there will be leather patches on other that special editions from Tender.

[Ghost Cat]

High waisted jeans with suspenders I don't think there will be leather patches on other that special editions from Tender.

Now that I see how he designed the patch, I can fabricate my own I can use some carbon black relief ink and the button of my 129s to print the face. Looks like he used 5-7oz cowhide, but maybe I'll use 10oz tooling leather in honor of the HWDC.

[Mvk190]

Now that I see how he designed the patch, I can fabricate my own I can use some carbon black relief ink and the button of my 129s to print the face. Looks like he used 5-7oz cowhide, but maybe I'll use 10oz tooling leather in honor of the HWDC.

I actually made those after William's idea, same natural oak bark leather he uses, around 2mm thick. We heated the the button to burn the face on the leather

[Ghost Cat]

Ahh, that makes sense. I think I'll ink the button, and emboss the leather on a letterpress. I'll update with the results in a day or two

[jabber]

Great post and collection, Youthxattak.

Can we see your 130 fit pic as well? Your slender body looks more like a 129 type, regardless I believe you make them 130 look fabulous on you

[rodeo bill]

^seconded! thank you so much youthxattak- these photos are awesome. i'd love to see your 130s on as well.

in trestle shop news, the sun's finally getting going in the uk and things are brightening up in general. time for some sheep

hand-inscribed sgraffito beakers, glazed blue with cobalt on the inside, and green with copper on the outside, available now, here

[Ghost Cat]

Homemade patch. This is 8oz. horsehide prepared cuir bouilli-style with pure beeswax. The ink is still drying in this picture, but should be less glossy in two or three days. Clockwise from top left: Tender, 129, THS, HWDC2. Plautus' face is a little less defined due to the button not being completely flat when it went through the press, but I like how it came out. Embossing is minimal, so the ink will fade with wear. It's hard to tell in this photo, but the leather has some great variation in the grain, resulting in a varied, marbled look. I might make another patch before sewing this to my jeans to see if I can get better definition for the face. I might try heating the brass like a brand the way the actual patches are done.

P.S. Sorry for the copyright infringement, Will

[rodeo bill]

^^totally awesome! On my desktop, along with Plautus smiling, by rampagingbarbarian

another new trestle shop product arrived yesterday, and is just now up online. this is actually from a customer request- somebody asked if we were going to sell key hooks. I hadn't thought of it, but I started playing around with a coat hanger, and a few weeks later here we are!:

it slots onto a belt (you put the hook onto your belt before the belts through the jeans belt loops), and then you can slide a keyring over the upward pointing end of the S. Because your belt fills up almost all the negative space inside the hook, the keyring stays in place, but can be slid up and off on purpose without any trouble. up on the shop now, here

[Ghost Cat]

In the end, I decided to go with my second option. I heated up the button and pressed it into 2oz. kidskin. I used natural leather glue to attach the center of the patch, then used embroidery floss for the actual sewing. The floss is 100% cotton, and will shrink like crazy during the next soak. The kidskin is a warm, chocolate brown from Hermann Oak. It'll be sitting in the sun when I'm not wearing the jeans to increase the contrast between the burnt logo and the leather itself.

And the inside (couldn't resist adding my initials):

And again, sorry for stealing Plautus. It's just too neat.

[Youthxattak]

So as requested..

I've had these 130s for about 13-14 months. The first thing that attracted me to Tender denim is the long inseam. These jeans have about a 38-40in inseam which for me was perfect. I'm a tall guy standing at about 6'4 and a lot of leg. 36in inseams only give me double cuff but I wanted something a little more substantial. The waist was snug in the beginning. Real snug. These are a size 2. But overtime they have loosened up to be perfect. I'm not one to never wash my jeans.. These have been washed probably every other week since after the first month of wear. I'm not a big fan of the dryer so these have only been hung dry.

These are the Natural Indigo Hand-Dyed so the cuff has a really lovely shade of green blue with flecks of wear the dye didn't really hit the fabric. The bottoms of the cuff have begun to give way from wear but I quite like the look.

Overall crotch shot. For the ladies.

[rodeo bill]

^^lovely fit, thank you!

 

I just received some really nice photos from another good customer and friend of the brand, Matt. Here are some of his things  :

 

White Explorer-Dial Hand's On watch and oak bark tanned strap

 

blue enamelled keeper buckle belt (chipping really beautifully), with Matt's own customised button brand:

 

 

and the coolest photo, Matt in his 129's on a retired Ice Breaker:

[rodeo bill]

which reminds me, in fact, another very nice picture- Simon's whistle, on a steam engine:

[rodeo bill]

a couple of weeks ago I made up some lost wax-cast brass 'loops' buckle English-woven cotton webbing belts:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

half went to be hand dyed woad, and then on to Hickoree's:

 

and half got a quick rinse, then went up as a restock on the Trestle Shop:

[rodeo bill]

A very nice SS13 write-up on stylesight's denim blog yesterday. Not much that's not been seen before, but the blog's very good, and worth reading back through if people don't know it.

 

 

Tender Spring/Summer 13

May 7, 2013  |  DRY JAPANESE SELVEDGE DENIMS, NATURAL DYES, TENDER CO., WATTLE, WILLIAM KROLL, WOAD, WORKWEAR

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William Kroll and his label Tender launches into S/S 13 with a range unique dying techniques like no other.

It has been said before that when you invest in a pair of Tender denim you are investing in a piece of denim history. Each season designer and founder, William Kroll introduces a combination of concepts from the past to create something innovative for today’s market. With Tender, every minute detail of each and every piece has a purpose and ultimately a high level of function.

One of the other notable features that makes the brand stand out from the plethora of other workwear labels in today’s market is their use of natural garment dyes. From purple logwood to woad and veggie dyes, William has tried it. This is an unbelievably painstaking and lengthy process, however the reward is a richness, depth, and variety of color which simply cannot be achieved in any other way.

For S/S 13 (Tender’s sixth seasonal production), William explores this process further on a range of unsanforized Japanese selvedge denims and English-woven cotton canvases hand-dyed with tan wattle and French woad. The result is a selection of jackets and jeans in beautiful earthy brown shades and rich indigo shades. The jeans are a particular highlight with the lighter contrast shade on the weft, while the jackets are finished with Saville Row tailores strap buttons, intended for trouser braces. These tough fabrics are also complimented with a selection of turquoise separates and accessories dyed from copper verdigris.

The collection includes a fireman’s jacket constructed from an 18oz canvas and garment dyed with wattle — a natural dye that originates from Acacia wood. The jacket features a one piece collar and a pleated back, while the pockets are lined with English calico and finish with kick-pressed, copper, dome rivets.

The jeans are offered in the Lot 129 (slim fit) and Lot 130 (tapered cut) in either the 18oz canvas or a 17oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denims – both in either tan wattle or French woad. Unique details include triple stitched seat seams for durability, lined square hip pockets, copper rivets and a solid brass removable button. The pants are also sewn with English-spun 100% cotton thread, which takes on the color of the dye and will wear and fade with the garments to develop a beautifully unique wear pattern.

To read more on the collection, head over to the official Tender webpage or the new Trestle Shop where you can directly buy the products. You can also look on a selection of the Tender’s leading stockists includingUnionmade and Superdenim.

[Youthxattak]

Really love the Tender shirts. Keep getting softer and more comfortable with every wash and wear. Anyone seen the tank tops anywhere (hopefully on sale)?

For reference...

Size 3

5'8 ~170lbs

The only tanks I know of are the woad tanks available at lyonstate website (who have some great customer service) or the logwood hand drawn tanks up on the trestle shop website.

Neither on sale it would appear.

[rodeo bill]

An awesome photo from another very good customer, Ian, who has a pair of boots from Unionmade. Here's Ian's son putting some time into wearing them in for him