Tender Co. Denim

[rodeo bill]

people may already have seen, but hickoree's have just put out a mailer with the new Tender production, and have a really nice selection online now 

[clawbytes]

<p>Just purchased the 129 woad dyed jeans a month ago. Havent got to wear them as much as I'd like due to the weather but anywho...</p>

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Edited September 6, 2013 by clawbytes

[Youthxattak]

I'm sure others could provide a more elaborate explanation... But I have both 130s and 129s. From my experience 130s offer more room in the thigh with a more obvious taper. 129s offer a slimmer fit on the seat and thigh with a more straight leg down.. But that's just my opinion. I do prefer my 130s but that could be because I love the color so much.

Edited September 6, 2013 by Youthxattak

[clawbytes]

I'm sure others could provide a more elaborate explanation... But I have both 130s and 129s. From my experience 130s offer more room in the thigh with a more obvious taper. 129s offer a slimmer fit on the seat and thigh with a more straight leg down.. But that's just my opinion. I do prefer my 130s but that could be because I love the color so much.

 

Sorry for the edit, but thanks for the response. My main concern was the 130 looking too baggy.

[rodeo bill]

^^thank you clawbytes! I'd say youthxattak's summary is just right. Basically, the 132 was the first fit and is round at the top, quite high in the waist, big in the thigh, and straight down with a wide leg. The 130 is basically the same as the 132, but with slightly less room in the thigh and a tapered leg. The 129 has a similar cuff width to the 130, but follows it all the way up through the thigh, so it's quite a bit slimmer. The 129 also has a slightly lower waist, and is slimmer over the hips. 

 

I think you also asked about the pullovers? They're knitted in Scotland from undyed natural white-sheep lamb's wool, and then dyed with woad or cochineal, the colour used on the red coats of British Army 'redcoats' in the early 19th Century. The sleeve design is called a saddle sleeve, and is half way between a raglan (like a baseball jersey, where the sleeve is attached to the body in a diagonal straight line from the armpit to the neck) and a set-in sleeve (like a Tshirt, where the sleeve is attached in a curved line from the armpit to the shoulder). A saddle sleeve can only be made on a fully fashioned garment, which means the garment is knitted into this shape, it's not cut and sewn up in seams. It gives the bet of both worlds- you get the clean shoulder of a raglan sleeve but the ease of movement of a set-in sleeve.

[jung]

A pair of new 130's went for £43 on eBay. I had it in my watch list all week and then forgot about it in the final hour. Gutted I missed out on one of the best ever bargains.

[jung]

Last week I did some photos for SLEEPER Spring/Summer 2014, and they've just gone up on Lineage of Influence, with a nice little write-up:

 

 

Hot on the heels of Tender’s Autumn/Winter collection comes sister label, SLEEPER and their Spring/Summer 2014 range, which consists of Japanese-made reproductions of vintage British Railway uniforms from William Kroll’s own personal collection.

The collection is envisioned as a simpler and easier affair, but one that’s nonetheless carefully made from top-quality materials and features unusual and subtle detailing. This second collection includes a 1960s mechanic’s suit made from English-woven broken twill in either Coal, Flying Scotsman green, or Mallard blue, and there’s also a pair of high-waisted wide-legged 1950s overall trousers

Also in the range are Chambray uniform shirts, and an interpretation of an early 1970s rubber signalman’s raincoat but made in a more technical nylon. The brand is predominately sold in Japan, but Peggs & Son in Brighton, and Hickoree’s in New York will also be carrying the brand.

For more information on the label, go to the website here: SLEEPER.

 

The green blazer is nice. I need a work coat version with a collar.

[Ciaran101]

Anybody know how the sizing works on some of the belts? 2/3/4/5 equate to pant size of...?

 

thanks in advance

[clawbytes]

Anybody know how the sizing works on some of the belts? 2/3/4/5 equate to pant size of...?

 

thanks in advance

 

Like most belts, you buy one size up from your pant size.

 

Example: I'm a 32 waist which translate to size 3 jeans which translate to size 4 belt.

Edited September 22, 2013 by clawbytes

[Ciaran101]

Like most belts, you buy one size up from your pant size.

 

Example: I'm a 32 waist which translate to size 3 jeans which translate to size 4 belt.

 

 

Excellent, thank you

[Graeme]

William told me that the Tender belts measure 33" to the middle hole for a size 3, and 35" for a size 4. That would suggest that they've already been upsized to match the jeans.

 

So I think that roughly:

• Size 2 would be a 30" waist.
• Size 3 would be a 32" waist.
• Size 4 would be a 34" waist.
• Size 5 would be a 36" waist.

Which is the same as the jeans. However, I was also advised that if you stretch the jeans out then you might need to size up with the belt.

[Youthxattak]

In my own experience I found I needed to size up. From wearing a 2 in my 130's and a 3 for my belt. When I received the 2 in my belt I couldn't even fit it.. I sized up to a 3 and I can fit between the 2-3 notches just fine. It did seem weird to me to have such a drastic change in fit from 1 size to the next so it could've been a oddly sized size 2 belt.. But regardless I have way more options having sized up. Seriously the best belt though. Couldn't be happier.

[satchelbmoore]

not to complicate things but when sizing jeans, we have to take into account how they were treated. From experience, a size 3 in the rinsed 129s fits about the same as a size 2 in woad dye but after several washes  they would probably even out. 

[clawbytes]

not to complicate things but when sizing jeans, we have to take into account how they were treated. From experience, a size 3 in the rinsed 129s fits about the same as a size 2 in woad dye but after several washes  they would probably even out. 

 

My size 3 jeans fits exactly as the size chart suggests. My size 4 belt also fits nicely in the middle hole.

 

Do you have muscular thighs by any chance?

[rodeo bill]

Thanks everyone for all of this! As Satchel says, jeans do vary a bit depending on the treatment, and this can even vary batch-to-batch, but they're all cut exactly the same, so they will eventually settle to the same size. Belts are cut 1" up from the jeans waist size to the middle hole, but as the leather is quite thick, and the buckles hold the leather away from the waist a little bit, it's a good idea to err on the larger size, or size one up.

 

I'm on the sunny East Coast at the moment, and took some quick photos of my Tender & For Holding Up The Trousers trews, with a home-added phone pocket. These have been worn daily for 8 months or so I reckon, and are coming along nicely 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And while I was at it, my wallet and coin purse too:

 

FHUTT trews are available from Morten (here) and we have the only pair made without the high back in woad denim up on the Stores, here.

[clawbytes]

God damnit, I really want to get the suspenders and the no side seams adds into the temptation but I just got my 129 jeans so I'm estimating it'll be at least early 2015 until I can purchase those. ='( 

[rodeo bill]

^thanks! Morten's suspenders come with buttons, so you could always wear a pair with your 129s 

 

Here are some quick photos of a shirt done as a special anniversary celebration for the editorial staff at Milk X magazine, in Hong Kong. It's based on the cambric tail shirt, and it's woad-dyed:

 

I've not done a dye like this before, but when Wail, the editor at Milk, said I should experiment with these shirts I thought it'd be a nice opportunity! Each one's different, and I wouldn't want to do this all the time, but I think they came out really nicely,

 

The shirt has a special editors' pen pocket behind the button placket:

 

and each shirt's signed and numbered:

[Youthxattak]

Big fan of the pen pocket! Would love to see that addition to the mainline.

[clawbytes]

On second though, Rodeo Bill, do you have any plans to make another pair with a different fit... say 129 woad dyed?

 

*wink wink*

*nudge nudge*

*jab jab*

*kick kick*

 

HADOUKEN!

[rodeo bill]

^^interesting! no plans to do another run of jeans at the moment (you'll have do wink at, nudge, jab, and kick Morten for that) but there are some interesting new For Holding Up The Trousers & Tender items coming soon. Sketches, making photos, product photos, and links coming soon 

[Graeme]

Followed shortly by credit card abuse.

[rodeo bill]

^

 

I'm just putting some images for the new season up on the website, and I came across some making-of photos that Deborah took while we were doing the shoot. It was a really fun day, out in the hills early in the morning, with incredible mist:

 

As with the last few shoots, the pictures were taken by my friend the photographer Flora Maclean. I modelled it (ahem) and Dan Mckinley, an ex-student of mine, with big things to come, helped out.

 

 

 

 

[satchelbmoore]

awesome! william, we need to get you some duluth packs or  british heritage railway luggage!

[rodeo bill]

^you might be right!

 

Unionmade now have AW13 in stock, and have just published their Fall Brand Guide, including this Tender outfit 

[cool_hand]

Who is retailing in central London, would like to check out the new collection?

[rodeo bill]

At the moment, Trunk LABS has some accessories (the main shop will have clothing from next season), and that's it I'm afraid. For clothing, Superdenim is online, and Peggs & Son is in Brighton and online.

[st199ml]

As a fellow Londoner I can only say the trip to Peggs & Son is well worth it. Not only is it a lovely shop with really friendly, knowledgeable staff, but they have lots of Tender. And Sleeper. Which, Bill, is utterly lovely. Grabbed the striped British Rail shirt, it's awesome.

Edited October 18, 2013 by st199ml

[clawbytes]

Hey Will/Bill, have you seen the new jeans that Wranger did with a U-shaped yoke? I don't own a pair but from what they advertise, it makes a lot of sense and looks very comfortable. Naked and Famous also have a special denim fabric that blends some cashmere for softer feel. Do you have any similar ideas for your next batch? 

[satchelbmoore]

^hey claw,  william has put a serious amount of thought and creativity into his brand (and denim). his jeans fit unlike anything else available today and are an extremely rare foray away from the ever-present influence of LEVI's.  while i have nothing against wrangler and n&f (and both have their legitimate place in the denim marketplace and history), tender is an entirely different beast . if you read back in this thread, you will see that william has done several things over the years to make his jeans  more comfortable like offer the a couple different styles of trews cut on the bias for increased stretch and comfort. if you are looking for more room in the crotch, check out the 132 or 130 cut. if you are looking for soft, try one of his tees or a pair of trews.

 

It is very rare that a tender fabric will be a blend of anything as the purity and simplicity of time-tested work wear permeates every piece of the brand. age-old fabrics, designs and manufacturing techniques allow the  quality of each garment to stand  for itself.

 

tender is not a hype machine or your dad's run of the mill denim brand.

Edited October 20, 2013 by satchelbmoore

[rodeo bill]

^^^st199ml thank you!   I think you're probably the very first person to own a piece of SLEEPER! I haven't even received my own order from Japan yet, and Peggs was the first shop to get their box. I think Hickoree's now have some things in-store too, and it'll be online soon I hope.

 

^^clawbytes, thanks for the suggestions, good to hear. I'll keep a look out for the U yoke, haven't heard of it, although I've seen shaped yokes in general- basically, a yoke used for shaping depends more on where it starts and finishes, and less on where it goes in between. This is the reason that Tender jeans' yokes go further down the back seam than most: the shape goes all the way through the seat. I guess a curved yoke could keep the seam away from the wearer's body as much as possible, which could reduce wear on the seam and be a bit more comfortable- worth thinking about! I've seen quite a few fancy denims, but personally I like denim that isn't too complicated, but wears really well. My denim ticks all the boxes we like to see ticked (I hope), but allows the construction, dyeing (where relevant), and owner's wear to improve the fabric. I worked with some cotton/silk denim in a previous job, which was lovely stuff, but that kind of thing doesn't seem appropriate for where Tender's going at the moment.

 

^Satchel, thanks as always man

 

sorry for the lack of updates lately- lots of things going on! more soon....