Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...

[demonator]

kyle how do you size on those kevlar jeans? are those undersized? on the waist?

[Kyle@TFH]

I'm guessing you mean the Flat Head K011/K015? Sizing is very similar to the regular 3001 and 3005. I'm not certain about shrinkage, but I think it's about the same as on the Pioneer denim.

[setterman]

I wouldn't call the D105 a low-rise jean.

This is the same pattern as the 105BSP SE carries, correct? I have a pair of size 38, and the front rise is 11". In that size, anything less than 12" is low.

[Kyle@TFH]

Yes, the D105 and 105BSP seem to be the same pattern.

My size of reference is 31-32; I'd consider 9.5" (like on the SE05BSP I used to have) a low rise, 10-10.5" a medium rise, and 11" and over a high rise. A size 31 D105 is about 11" raw and should shrink to 10.25-10.5", which is definitely a mid-rise for me. Maybe in larger sizes, the rise just isn't proportionally lengthened enough for your desired fit.

Also, I wear my jeans slightly above the widest part of my hips, not higher on my waist. I'm not sure if most people on this forum wear their jeans like this, or higher on the waist. If you like to wear your jeans higher, than your desired rise will be higher.

[Rightyow77]

^ I usually wear my jeans at about .5 above the widest part of my hips, find it to be the most comfortable unless it is a high rise, then I wear them true waist

[Rightyow77]

The D001 and the D101 have the silhouette I'm looking for, but man those rear pockets just really killed it for me. The D305 is described as a "Loose Straight" which I am assuming should be similar, these don't have the weird rear pocket diamonds but have a slouchy cropped rear pocket which I also don't really understand. Damn shame, since these options are also cheaper than the BSP option. May just size up like I originally intended with the 105 since it has all the details minus all the extras.

[setterman]

Maybe in larger sizes, the rise just isn't proportionally lengthened enough for your desired fit.

Yes, the D105 and 105BSP seem to be the same pattern.

My size of reference is 31-32; I'd consider 9.5" (like on the SE05BSP I used to have) a low rise, 10-10.5" a medium rise, and 11" and over a high rise. A size 31 D105 is about 11" raw and should shrink to 10.25-10.5", which is definitely a mid-rise for me. Maybe in larger sizes, the rise just isn't proportionally lengthened enough for your desired fit.

Also, I wear my jeans slightly above the widest part of my hips, not higher on my waist. I'm not sure if most people on this forum wear their jeans like this, or higher on the waist. If you like to wear your jeans higher, than your desired rise will be higher.

I think that is an issue with many Japanese brands, that the rise doesn't grow enough as the waist gets bigger, and it's mad worse when combined with the modern aesthetic of a jean that rides on the low side to begin with.

[ProfessorOak]

x-post from the evo thread.

Finally got around to some fit pics!

SExFHxRJB15

2 washes

roughly 22 mo. (16 mo. of consistent wear, sparingly last few months)

[Eels]

I've had these 106BSPs since 2/19/10, and they've been the sail of my ship.

Just a couple photos I snapped. Probably do some fit pics tomorrow/Thursday.

 

Full size, high-res photo links:

http://min.us/mbwHudHsPWU1PY

 

 

low res sufu links--

 

Front:

 

 

 

Train-trackin'

 

 

Back:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Patch detail:

 

best to check them out yourself in full resolution here:
http://min.us/mbwHudHsPWU1PY

 

 

Extra photo of my wallet:



 

Edited July 3, 2013 by Eels

[Kyle@TFH]

Those look really, really great. That's a well-loved pair of jeans for sure.

[ironheartfan123]

awesome..

[stingray1381]

I bought a pair of 105 BSPs in a size 36 based on the shrinkage expected after a soak.  I have not gotten the same amount of shrinkage as advertised, and the jeans are a little looser around the waist and legs than I would like.  I have already hot soaked them once in the and hot washed them in the machine without soap to get some agitation.  Should I soak them again and dry them in the dryer?  I have never dried my raw jeans in the dryer, so, if drying is the right approach, what should the settings be?  Any insight is appreciated. 

Edited August 27, 2013 by stingray1381

[Kyle@TFH]

You can put them in the dryer if you want, it might be your best option.  I've seen that dryer use tends to make the inside of a pair of jeans look messier (it seems to "blow up" the exposed ends of cotton at the stitches, etc.) but it's generally pretty safe on low-medium heat.  The dryer will make your jeans softer, but you could always soak them again after tumble drying to get the crunchy feeling back. 

 

I'm not really convinced that the softness makes any difference in the long-term, I've seen plenty of nicely faded one-washed pairs of jeans.

[stingray1381]

Thanks a lot, Kyle.

[stingray1381]

I tried one more hot soak. They are air drying now. If they still are too roomy after I try them on, I will soak them again and put them in the dryer. Thanks.

Edited August 28, 2013 by stingray1381

[summ3rhays]

My RJB Dobby argyle shirt has become one of my favorite shirts this summer.  Great fit and wicked cool fabric.

 

[spacey]

RJB 103BSP

My favourite jean. I've owned them for a year now but only about two months or more worth of wear. Two washes. The fabric is really soft at this stage and just feels amazing. Can't really see where they have faded but there are some great subtle fades in person.

The puckering of the fabric at the yoke, the arcuates with two stitch colours, the RJB logo are just some of the great things of this jean. The rise may be a little too low for some but the fabric definitely does this jean justice. Another great feature is an additional piece of denim sewed inside the opening of the pockets and this definitely makes the jean feel tougher as the front pocket stitching lasts much longer than my other pairs. Definitely one of my favourite pairs of all time and I might even buy another pair once this becomes unwearable (which won't be for a while)

[jstavrin]

I just put a shirt up for sale if anyone's interested. I love it, but it's far too small. 

 

[Markmont]

If anyone's got this shirt in a 42 and are willing to sell it, please hollar at me.

Edited December 2, 2013 by Markmont

[Cold Summer]

Hey guys,

 

I decided to breathe some new life into the RJB thread by picking up my first pair of RJB jeans – the D105. Since there's so little discussion going on about RJB, I want to give as much information as I can about these jeans, and hopefully generate some more interest in this awesome brand.

 

 

The D105 is maybe RJB's flagship model – it has most of the brand's characteristic features in a subtly modern straight fit. I've had my eyes on these for quite some time, and couldn't resist them any longer. So let's take a look.

 

Fabric And Construction

 

In the past, RJB's Zimbabwe cotton jeans were made from an unsanforized, but singed, fabric. This fabric was very soft and even, though it still had the same post-soak hairiness we associate with RJB's sister brand Flat Head.

 

The current 14 oz fabric was introduced with the SExFHxRJB15 collab, and is now used on all RJB jeans produced with Zimbabwe cotton. This fabric is completely loomstate, and feels much more distinct and abrasive than the previous denim. The inside of the denim looks really good, and is quite different from Flat Head. In terms of initial color, they're both about the same, each being dyed about twice as much as conventional denim.

 

 

Most aspects of construction are pretty similar to Flat Head, but there are a few distinctive points worth mentioning below.

 

Details

 

Not surprisingly, RJB's detailing is a bit different from Flat Head. The buttons are zinc rather than iron, and the rivet design is a little bit different as well. The pockets are plain rather than printed, and the front pocket openings are a nice size that easily accommodates my large hands.

 

One of the coolest features is the front pocket construction. Usually the edge of the pocket opening has denim on the outside and the pocket bag fabric immediate behind it; however, on RJB's pocket opening, there's another strip of denim inside the pocket, adding to the durability. If you've ever seen a really thrashed-up old pair of jeans, the front pocket edge fabric is usually shredded up; the reinforcing denim is there to prevent this from happening.

 

 

One of my favorite details is the patch – it's made from black deerskin and feels extremely nice. I wish more jeans had patches like this, it's really a nice change of pace from veg tan cowhide, and adds to the classy vibe of these jeans. Another cool feature is the coin pocket – it's wide and extremely deep, so for those of you who like a knife pocket on your jeans, this will definitely fit the bill. I'm still trying to figure out what I could put in here.

 

 

I like the back pocket diamonds a lot, and I'm determined to make you like them, too. The stitching is interlocked yellow/orange thread (also seen on a lot of the jeans' chainstitched areas) and makes these jeans instantly recognizable. RJB's diamond embroidery looks really nice as it ages over time, and gives these jeans a unique vibe – they still have a vintage-inspired quality, but it's quite unique and different from actual jeans of the fifties. I really like how RJB creates original products that seem like they could be vintage items, but which are actually entirely original.

 

Fit

 

Pre-Soak

 

 

Post-Soak

 

 

 

 

I'm a skinny guy, so I never thought I'd find a straight-leg fit that actually looked good on me. I found it in the D105. These jeans have a straight leg, but the top block is much more nicely fitted on my body compared to lots of other straight cuts, which tend to be too loose. The rise is a little longer than medium – about 10.5†in the front, post soak. However, the back rise is shorter, and makes my backside look better than any other pair of jeans I've worn.

 

My favorite part of the fit, though, is the thigh – the top thigh is slim. It's not baggy, and there's no hip flare – just a really nice, clean fit that's straight from the knee to hem with very little taper. For reference, I went down one size with these jeans. I usually wear a 32 in Flat Head, but got these in a 31 (my true waist is in between 31 and 32.) If you need more room in the top, I'd suggest going true to size; if you want a slimmer fit like I'm getting, go down one. RJB's denim seems to be more flexible when it comes to the waist stretching, so you can adjust for your ideal fit.

 

Something worth pointing out is that RJB's inseam is longer than most Flat Head jeans. The pre-soak inseam on my D105 measured 96 cm / about 38 inches. After washing, they shrunk about 2.5†to a 35.5†length, and didn't need any hemming. These are a good choice for taller guys who find that the standard Japanese inseam length isn't quite enough.

 

Bottom Line

 

I'm really impressed with the jeans. As a Flat Head fan, there's stuff that's familiar, but also a lot that's different. These are the first true straight cut jeans I've bought since getting into raw denim a few years ago, and I couldn't be happier with the fit.

 

A friend of mine has been wearing the RJB D103, made with this same fabric. Over the past year they've turned into a really nice color – almost powdery blue, rather than the sharped electric blue color of Flat Head – at faded points, while staying dark elsewhere. The faded texture still has vertical fading, but the pattern is quite different from Flat Head.

 

In terms of both fit and fade, these will be a nice compliment to my Flat Head 1001s, and I'm looking forward to seeing how they change over the next year. Stay tuned for a lot more updates.

Edited January 22, 2014 by Cold Summer

[SamLJack]

Excellent breakdown Kyle, I gotta say I'm pretty impressed by those.  However, I can't get on board with that back pocket stitching, which obviously just boils down to personal preference.  Gotta keep us updated on these!

[ColdStorage]

^My thoughts exactly. Back pocket stitching wouldn't work for me but really appreciate the in depth report. Could read posts like that all day.

[itsbenhere]

That's a perfect fit kyle.  Honestly, rjb's new denim may be my favorite fading denim of all time.  I seriously dig the rich powdery blue color.  In a longgggg time after my flat heads are done ill probably be on the lookout for rjbs... only reason why i dont own any rjb clothing is that its so unattainable in the states.

[Foxy2]

I own 2 RJB jeans (one being D105S) and love the denim and the fit - the back pocket stitching works fine for me.

Edited December 7, 2013 by Foxy2

[Cold Summer]

By the way, the D105S and 105BSP are basically the same jeans, but with a different pocket stitch. The BSPs also have lined back pockets, which is a nice bonus.

[Danny @ Rivet & Hide]

Great fit, Kyle. It really does work well on you.

[oomslokop]

they don't have the leather within the diamond stitches anymore? i like those.

[Cold Summer]

They're still around, but it's on the D001 model.  There are also limited-edition seasonal versions of the D105 with colored leather diamonds. 

[spacey]

Kyle what would you say is the main difference between Flat Head's denim and RJB's denim?

[Cold Summer]

Flat Head's denim is made with American cotton and has a rougher feel, a tighter weave, and a little bit harsher feel/character overall, though it gets very soft after a few months of wear.  RJB's denim is still very uneven but right away it's very soft, breathes well, and fades to a different high-contrast blue, even though it starts off about the same color as Flat Head's denim.

 

So, I picked up these bad boys today. 

 

 

 

 

These are RJB's trademark sneakers, I nicknamed these the "baseball sneaker" for their white/red color scheme.  These are the nicest sneakers I've ever seen, they're also by far the most comfortable; these have the comfort of a super high-end dress shoe in sneaker form.  The leather is extremely soft and supple, and these are still brand new and haven't even been broken in yet. 

 

I've never owned a nice pair of white sneakers before, but I seriously like how these look, I've been waiting for the chance to get some for a long time.  They fit a little larger than my FH sneakers - these are 28.5 CM, while the FH sneakers are 28 CM.  I like how these have a classic mid-century American sneaker vibe, while being an original design that's not directly based off any particular vintage shoe.  As usual for FH and RJB, the details are all top-notch, from the fully leather-lined interior to the tongue loop and amazing textured sole (which, unlike most sneakers, can actually be replaced when it wears out.)