home-made jeans

[Canada_Steve]

Oh, man would I love to wear that!

[UkeNo]

^^Jerry - Let us know if you do decide to make a few for Sale.

I'll be in the que for one if you do.

Nice work.

[UkeNo]

People...

Im looking at buying a single needle (industrial) sewing machine and would like to Know which is more practical/useful;

a needle feed or a walk foot model?

Will this affect the usability if I choose one over the other?

Thanks

[jerrylee]

Okay, last home-made jeans post for a while... this is a pair of buckle back jeans. Pattern was drafted using the 60's era jeans draft on the cutter & tailor forum. I made the outseam straight and adjusted the fit and after a couple of mock-ups ended up with a good pair. I decided to stitch them up in navy thread rather than the usual gold topstitching thread. I think it really changes the look of the jeans and makes the denim appear richer. For the buttons I used black u.s. navy anchor buttons (like the ones used on peacoats). I bought the buckle from a company that sells accessories for civil war re-enactors. Anyway, here are the pics...

I used hickory stripe for the pocketing and the backside of the buckle strap.

[illumin8em]

I used hickory stripe for the pocketing and the backside of the buckle strap.

.

These look great. I would love to have a pair with western slanted front pockets

[Goominim]

Just got this put on hold for me. Will be driving out for a better look.

[Canada_Steve]

Cross post from the raw for women thread... My wife asked for a pair, so I found some Cone stretch selvedge.

[jerrylee]

Cross post from the raw for women thread... My wife asked for a pair, so I found some Cone stretch selvedge.

Those look excellent! I tried making a pair for my wife last year when I started making jeans and I couldn't get the shaping right but I haven't tried now that I have a better understanding of jean making.

[Canada_Steve]

Those look excellent! I tried making a pair for my wife last year when I started making jeans and I couldn't get the shaping right but I haven't tried now that I have a better understanding of jean making.

This was my first pair of ladies and I got lucky for sure They'd be hideous it weren't for the fact that the stretch gives a little and conforms to the curves.

Edited July 6, 2012 by Canada_Steve

[nietenhosen]

there was a little time left, so i made new shirts...

same denim and cut here, left one six month, a lot of wear and a few washes. right one ready soaked with white seams.

[jerrylee]

Hey, those look really great! Would you be inetersted in doing a trade of some sort (sewn goods for sewn goods)?

[nietenhosen]

^ yes, good idea...jerrylee

got new fabric the last days, sample not finished yet:

[xchen]

nietenhosen, those are amazing

[nietenhosen]

thank you very much.

[snozepp147]

I have a technical question some of you might be able to help me out with. I'll try to explain it as best I can.

I've been drafting my front and back leg pieces the same length. However, when I add the yoke to the back leg piece it becomes an inch or two longer than the front piece. Later, after I have sewn the inseam and go to sew the outseam, the front and back pieces don't match up at the waistband (the back piece with yoke is longer). If I match them at the top and sew down to the cuff, the leg becomes skewed and the inseam twists because of the pull of the fabric. How do I fix this? Do I extend the front leg piece by a couple inches to match the addition of the yoke? Or do I extend the length of only the front pocket lining to match the yoke at the outseam then bring the waistband down at an angle in the front?

Sorry if the explanation is confusing. If you think you can help but need more clarification or photos, please ask.

Thank you,

T

[jerrylee]

I have a technical question some of you might be able to help me out with. I'll try to explain it as best I can.

I've been drafting my front and back leg pieces the same length. However, when I add the yoke to the back leg piece it becomes an inch or two longer than the front piece. Later, after I have sewn the inseam and go to sew the outseam, the front and back pieces don't match up at the waistband (the back piece with yoke is longer). If I match them at the top and sew down to the cuff, the leg becomes skewed and the inseam twists because of the pull of the fabric. How do I fix this? Do I extend the front leg piece by a couple inches to match the addition of the yoke? Or do I extend the length of only the front pocket lining to match the yoke at the outseam then bring the waistband down at an angle in the front?

Sorry if the explanation is confusing. If you think you can help but need more clarification or photos, please ask.

Thank you,

T

Sent you a pm.

[snozepp147]

I just finished my first pair of jeans after many test pairs. For these I used Cone Mills 13.5oz selvage denim. I'm pretty happy with the outcome. This first photo was taken before putting the front button on and I had some trouble with my machine and the button hole, but it turned out. Another problem was a twisted inseam, which I am unsure of how to fix, perhaps someone could chime in. It isn't really noticeable since they are long and the twist is slight, but it happens to every pair of jeans I try to sew. The fit is good, they're a little loose around the waist (I had to add a second button to keep them from falling off) and I plan on soaking them tomorrow. I hope to solve the twisted inseam problem before starting on my next pair.

[jerrylee]

I just finished my first pair of jeans after many test pairs. For these I used Cone Mills 13.5oz selvage denim. I'm pretty happy with the outcome. This first photo was taken before putting the front button on and I had some trouble with my machine and the button hole, but it turned out. Another problem was a twisted inseam, which I am unsure of how to fix, perhaps someone could chime in. It isn't really noticeable since they are long and the twist is slight, but it happens to every pair of jeans I try to sew. The fit is good, they're a little loose around the waist (I had to add a second button to keep them from falling off) and I plan on soaking them tomorrow. I hope to solve the twisted inseam problem before starting on my next pair.

In your patterning, when you measure the inseam, are you accounting for the seam allowance in the front crotch and the felled center back seam? If you add in your inseam and outseam lengths after your seam allowances are added in you can end up with a one inch or more surplus in the outseam resulting in twisting. Consider that the 5/8" felled seam on the CB takes away at least that much from one side and adds it to the other since it's a lapped seam. After a while you'll start to see how everything is connected and where different seams affect other parts of the jeans and it will click. But hey, you're pretty far along. Yours look much better than my early attempts. BTW, what machines are you using? I use an industrial straight stitch Singer 31-15 from 1927.

[snozepp147]

Thanks again for your help jerrylee. I didn't do a lap seam on the center back or account for it on my pattern because I thought you needed a special foot/attachment for that. (I just did a fake lap seam/foldover on the yoke and connected the CB seam with a regular stitch and folded it to the side). I think my problem is that my crotch points don't match up on the front and back. I dropped the back crotch by an inch or so to give them some more room in the seat and increase the back rise... but I should've added that to the top of the CB yoke so as not to shorten the inseam length.

I'll draft a pair with my cheap fabric and see if that corrects it. As for my machine, I'm using my stepmom's fancy digital Brother Pacesetter ULT2003D. Not the most heavy duty but it's surprisingly good with this denim.

EDIT: I drafted another pattern with the crotches at the same point and threw together a mock-up pair. The twisted inseam problem is fixed. Thanks again!

Edited August 15, 2012 by snozepp147

[nietenhosen]

finished lately....

[Xstan]

Nice shirt and jeans , would like try to make a my own someday.

Any book that you'll can recommend for beginners ?

[jerrylee]

Nice shirt and jeans , would like try to make a my own someday.

Any book that you'll can recommend for beginners ?

Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, Shirtmaking by David Page Coffin, Tailoring Suits the Professional Way by Clarence Poulin.

Honestly selvedge jeans aren't the best place to start for the beginning sewer. I've been sewing for over ten years and four of those professionally. Sewing is hard work that requires a great deal of personal commitment and for those of us trying to start our own lines, financial and social sacrifice. But I encourage everyone to learn how to sew, just be warned that it ain't all fun and games!

[Xstan]

jerrylee, thanks. Will try to pratice with simple pattern.

[snozepp147]

I'm looking to source some higher quality buttons and rivets as my construction gets a little better. Can anyone recommend a good supplier or company that I could contact?

[jerrylee]

I'm looking to source some higher quality buttons and rivets as my construction gets a little better. Can anyone recommend a good supplier or company that I could contact?

Tandy leather has a good selection of rivets. As for buttons I searched long and hard (as in more than a year) for the right buttons so I would be doing a disservice to myself to reveal my source. Part of the fun (at least for me) is research and development of my product and hopefully others who are interested in starting their own denim lines enjoy that aspect of evolving their product.

[Canada_Steve]

http://dot-gas.com sells low qtys of hardware. Kooper has provided me with excellent service each time I've ordered.

Lookin' good guys!

Edited September 27, 2012 by Canada_Steve

[simontuntelder]

http://dot-gas.com sells low qtys of hardware. Kooper has provided me with excellent service each time I've ordered.

Lookin' good guys!

That's pretty damn good.

THANKS

[matera]

I was checkin out Tandy for rivets, but I don't know what size to get. Anybody know the standard size for rivets for jeans?

[hollowsleather]

The smaller size at Tandy (#12) is a little bit bigger than you typically see on a pair of jeans, but it works. I've used them to replace or add rivets to jeans and they blend in pretty well.

[matera]

And did you use the smallest length (1/2in), or one of the bigger ones (3/4in or 1in)?