home-made jeans

[rnrswitch]

nice lookin jeans. What machine did you use for the sewing. Was it all single needle?

[jlaz93]

I was looking at that fabric from premium denim outlet, well it looks the same.

[rnrswitch]

I was looking at that fabric from premium denim outlet, well it looks the same.

What do you means by, "it looks the same." Same as what?

[jlaz93]

as the denim sample i received from premiumdenimoutlet.

[rnrswitch]

as the denim sample i received from premiumdenimoutlet.

Ahh, I didn't know PDO had overdyed denim. Hmmm. I still need to pick up a grip of that XX20 denim cone denim.

[bernieee]

the whole jeans is single stitched on an industrial lockstitch machine and the fabric is indigo warp and overydye black weft and the fabric you see is actually the wrong side, right side is much more blue/indigo.

[jlaz93]

Yea i didn't know they had overdyed either but i got a few swatch books to look through and the overdyed really caught my eye. The xx20 denim looks great too.

[simontuntelder]

So how are you all doing? Any new projects on the table?

I just bought my own sewing machine - a Singer 221, which I'm hopefully able to use on heavy denim fabrics.

I have e-mailed with Premium Denim Outlet and they have been really friendly. I'm having a friend send 12 yards of the 4 different types of selvage denim (from Cone) that they offer. Hopefully, I'll turn some into jeans and some into other projects.

Where can I get brass Laurel leaf doughnut buttons?

[darly900]

http://www.citronjeans.com/j_1/order.html

They aren't cheap but let me know if you are considering them and we could combine an order (EU based)

[snozepp147]

So how are you all doing? Any new projects on the table?

I just bought my own sewing machine - a Singer 221, which I'm hopefully able to use on heavy denim fabrics.

I have e-mailed with Premium Denim Outlet and they have been really friendly. I'm having a friend send 12 yards of the 4 different types of selvage denim (from Cone) that they offer. Hopefully, I'll turn some into jeans and some into other projects.

Where can I get brass Laurel leaf doughnut buttons?

great to see your project ideas & the new purchase. I am planning a pair of hand-drafted jeans. I've done the first test pair out of oversized levi's fabric and will be using Cone selvage raw denim for the final pair for advanced sewing course at uni by early May

[nietenhosen]

So how are you all doing? Any new projects on the table?...

yes, working on tops the last few months. sample jacket made from 13,5 cone selvage which i used for the last pair i posted a few pages before...

[killer b]

that's lovely. good work.

[jlaz93]

That jacket is great, I finally started working on my jeans. I got my order in from pdo a while ago, it was 5 yards of 14oz indigo, 3 yards of 13 oz overdyed, and 3 yards of hickory stripe. Not to much progress, but I will keep updating as i work on them.

[simontuntelder]

BTW guys, I cam across a HUGE lot of Talon (mostly Talon 42 brass) zippers...

They are all NOS.

Let me know, if there's any interest, I would like to sell some off in order to fund the purchase and maybe some new materials and tools.

I have no idea what they are worth, so I'm not really sure what to sell them for - I'll of course sell them 4 cheap.

[snozepp147]

BTW guys, I cam across a HUGE lot of Talon (mostly Talon 42 brass) zippers...

They are all NOS.

Let me know, if there's any interest, I would like to sell some off in order to fund the purchase and maybe some new materials and tools.

I have no idea what they are worth, so I'm not really sure what to sell them for - I'll of course sell them 4 cheap.

I'd be interested, but my knowledge of zippers extends no further than YKK=standard. Can you enlighten me on their quality and perhaps offer a comparison?

Much obliged,

T

[killer b]

i got a pair of vintage levis with a talon 42 zipper last week. they're chunkier than a ykk, and the tab is rather more handsome.

have a look here - click on the 'detail' link, and there's a page with load of pics of various levis zippers through the years, mostly talons.

[simontuntelder]

If you a smooth running and nice zipper, you might want to go with Riri (I have them too), as they are really good and equally tough in my experience.

Talon, along with Scovill, GripperZipper and possibly Conmar are the original makers of zippers for jeans, workwear and military stuff. So they would be the authentic choice. Furthermore the Japanese are obsessed with them - if you read the new Mono book on Workwear they have a spread on Talon zippers used in military jackets primarily.

To me Talon is the authentic and correct choice historically that is. They are bit coarse and rugged compared to the smoothness of Riri. But if you use a 2B or 4B pencil on the teeth of the Talon zipper, it improves greatly.

YKK is not a bad choice - as they have a huge range of zippers, but to me that is the very boring choice. I would NEVER use them. As they do not stand out in any way. Not nice to the touch, not great running, not tough, but neither are they bad. Do you get what I'm trying to say? They are just YKK and not cool.

[darly900]

Can anyone help me out sourcing good quality leather, shipping to the UK, to make patches with? I was thinking deer but good cow hide would be fine too, TIA.

I've also found a guy with some sanforized 13.5 and 14 oz stuff from Japan, pm me if you want more details.

[simontuntelder]

Well, there is JF Baker, who makes some of the best leather in the world.

I use that leather when I make belts and so does the guy that makes belts for Tender Co, if I remember correctly.

The indigoshrimp blog had a write up on it.

[Paul T]

Baker make the leather for Terry Dear and others. THey would be your best bet.

I've also bought leather from Andrew Muirhead in Scotland for upholstery purposes & I know they deal direct with the public - it's around £450 for a 5 square meter hide.

[mikecch]

I've recently been told Clayton of Chesterfield do some really nice leathers.

Haven't handled their stuff yet, but it seems they have more varied/modern tannages and do some excellent stuff besides traditional steerhide.

Also, if you're in the UK, you can find lots of little currier companies who do excellent work. Sedgwick is one of the bigger ones, but I'm sure there are plenty of small finishers around.

[darly900]

Thanks very much for all the replies, very helpful.

I live quite near Chesterfield so I might go round and ask if they'll do small quantities for me,

Thanks again

[thackbarth]

I'm new here, but love seeing all of the projects in this thread. I've been learning how to design and make my own clothes for about a year and a half now. I thought I would share some pictures of a pair of selvedge denim jeans I finished earlier this year. The denim is a 12.5 oz from Cone Mills.

[Joseph Hill]

I'd say you've got the process down pretty well pat. Excellent work.

[thackbarth]

Thank you!

[simontuntelder]

WOW! You nailed it man. Nice work.

Although I'm not too fond of the thread colour choice, but that is totally a case of preference.

The stitchwork is great - what machinery do you have?

[thackbarth]

WOW! You nailed it man. Nice work.

Although I'm not too fond of the thread colour choice, but that is totally a case of preference.

The stitchwork is great - what machinery do you have?

Thanks. Initially I wasn't thrilled with the color of the stitching either, but I've come to really like it. It's different without standing out too much.

I have a single needle, straight stitch, Brother industrial machine that I use on heavy materials such as denim. I also have a Juki serger, and a domestic Pfaff that I use for lighter weight materials like shirts.

[simontuntelder]

What thread do you use? I mean very specifically?

I have always used Amann thread, as I have always been told that it's the best. I have been using the Saba line, as well as the Seralon.

But I have just noticed their Rasant line, which is poly core and cotton covering, and I have been meaning to buy it for some time now to test it on my first pair of selvage jeans. Unfortunately the Rasant line is not very easy to find.

[darly900]

http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fpage6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp%2Fjp%2Fauction%2Ff104008929

^This would have been cool for someone from here to get but I didn't check the time, I would have posted it here otherwise.

http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fpage8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp%2Fjp%2Fauction%2Fh153174486

^This is too short and light for jeans but there might be enough for other garments, nice looking stuff anyways.

[simontuntelder]

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