Sugar Cane Denim

[Blue Nemo]

I received the Okinawa today. They are raw (N). Definetly. But I was the last one to recognize that anyway ...

 

Here are some pics of the pre-soak fit. The fit is very generous, to say the least. It could be to big for me, even though I think I did my mathematics correct. But I soaked them anyway, out of pure curiosity, for more than 2 hours, very gentle. I do not want to harm the snake skin patch. The details are very nice!

 

I am interested in the result, and your thoughts. I have measured a 33,85 inch waist pre-soak, and after all I need a 32, 32.5....

 

 

 

 

 

Goodday!

[ColdsnapBryan]

I need me a pair of those. Are they itchy?

 

They probably shrinked some in the soak, but they will stretch out fairly close to the raw measurement. Could you do full measurements for the size 33? I'm curious. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

^^ what size did you get in the end? waist looks good for pre-soak.

The rest will follow...but not with a soak but later down the line with some machine washes

[Blue Nemo]

Yeah, I can get the measurements, but just post-soak. And this is a 32 (raw).

 

I really hope that they not stretch back to pre-soak measurements. That would confuse me a great deal. Especially when I keep in mind the measurements for one-wash on SE and Hinoya...

 

 

EDIT:
Way too big in the waist, not a chance for me to wear them. Will post measurements later.I will sell them, maybe someone is interested!

Edited June 4, 2014 by Blue Nemo

[BAerts]

I'll second b_f, that looks about right for a pre soak fit. After some washing, wearing, and time, they'll be just right. The one wash Canes have been washed in an industrial washer and then dried, so the measurements will be quite different than raw.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

And also the one-wash version will stretch back to raw in the waist.

Well..I said go for the size 31 but you wouldn't listen 8and by the time size 31 was gone anyway )

[ColdsnapBryan]

From my experience with my multiple pair of 1947s: the waist will stretch out to raw, front rise stays, back rise stretches a tad, thighs stretch, leg opening stays. 

[Maynard Friedman]

Definitely too big Blue Nemo but it seems that Ushowu has size 31 Okis in stock now.

[Blue Nemo]

Yup (to all of you).

But I really am not sure if a 31 raw is a good idea either. These unexpected measurements surely suprised me!

[Artisandenim]

Years ago before I knew anything about raw denim I was in a shop in Birmingham (I think it was a too) a shop assistant was trying to sell me a pair of canes. I remember him saying 'you should get them now as Levi's have won a law suit and any further models will not have a red tab'. As I had never heard of them I declined in my ignorance and purchased some APC ns instead...

Oh well.

Would 30" Hawaii be scarily loose for someone who wears 29" samurai 710's? The measurements don't look terrifying but I much prefer to trust physical experience!

[Maynard Friedman]

Yes, I wear a 32 in 50s repro cuts and have a 32 in Hawaiis.

[Artisandenim]

Thanks Maynard.

Pretty much what I thought, but was hoping!

[Planetarium]

I wear a 29 in the 710 and a 28 in Hawaiis and Okis.

 

True waist is 28 so if yours is 29 I'd stick with that size across the board.

Edited June 4, 2014 by Planetarium

[Artisandenim]

^ cheers Mate.

I kinda knew I'd be much better off sizing down one than up one if anything but was hoping to get a cheeky deal as listed above! Nothing under 30" there....

[Blue Nemo]

I wear a 29 in the 710 and a 28 in Hawaiis and Okis.

 

True waist is 28 so if yours is 29 I'd stick with that size across the board.

 

Isn't the Hawaii one inch bigger in the waist than the Okinawa (both o/w)?

[Maynard Friedman]

My size 32 Hawaiis measure 33" raw, my size 33 measured 34.5" raw, so there is individual variation. Overall I think the waist sizes are broadly similar to the Okis.

[djarrow]

 

Okinawa received from uShowu yesterday... So much character in the denim.  After a quick 20 minute cold soak, I didn't see much shrinkage in the waist and length.

[Maynard Friedman]

^ Give them a 40C machine wash and then report back!

They're size 33 aren't they? Do you know what the waist measured pre- and post-soak ?

Edited June 4, 2014 by Maynard Friedman

[Blue Nemo]

Interesting, a red tab - or something alike. Mine don't have that.

[djarrow]

^ Give them a 40C machine wash and then report back!

They're size 33 aren't they? Do you know what the waist measured pre- and post-soak ?

 

Tag size 33.  Pre = about 34.5 inches, 34 for length.  Post = 33 inches, 33 for length.  Minimal shrinkage due to quick cold soak.  This is probably it in terms of water contact... until next year or so when I need to wash them.

[Blue Nemo]

Can anyone tell me the idea behind SC Union Star label, please?

 

Couldn't find out much by myself...

[ColdsnapBryan]

Tag size 33.  Pre = about 34.5 inches, 34 for length.  Post = 33 inches, 33 for length.  Minimal shrinkage due to quick cold soak.  This is probably it in terms of water contact... until next year or so when I need to wash them.

 

How about the thigh and front rise?

[djarrow]

Didn't measure but I would guess about 0.5 inch in the thigh and front rise.  

[Blue Nemo]

So, here are the post soak measurements of the 32x34 Okinawa I got from UshowU.

 

done BiG:

waist - 86 (43) cm (which is a 33.85 in inches)

front rise - 31 cm

back rise - 41 cm

upper thigh - 32 cm

inseam - 89 cm

hem - 23 cm

 

Funny thing is, post and pre soak measurements, at least the waist, havn't changed much at all, although I used darn hot water and soaked for more than 2 hours....

Its less "starchy" than before, although the texture has even increased. It feels and looks outstanding - in no way comparing to my IH denim.

 

If anyone is interested, I will sell them without making any profit on it

[jonmhenderson]

To get all the shrinkage out of unsanforized denim, I believe you need to do at least a couple of hot machine washes and hot tumble drys. I did this on my 1947s and had inseam shrinkage for the first three times! That's the X factor with unsanforized denim. The top block will shrink then stretch back out with wear, many times larger than tagged size, and look saggy. But, as a general rule, Canes WILL shrink TO tagged size in the waist and an inch or so UNDER tagged size in length if you get all the shrinkage out of them. The interesting thing about vintage cuts is if you have a slim build, the waist will be ok, but the seat and thighs will always be very roomy.

[Blue Nemo]

To get all the shrinkage out of unsanforized denim, I believe you need to do at least a couple of hot machine washes and hot tumble drys. I did this on my 1947s and had inseam shrinkage for the first three times! That's the X factor with unsanforized denim. The top block will shrink then stretch back out with wear, many times larger than tagged size, and look saggy. But, as a general rule, Canes WILL shrink TO tagged size in the waist and an inch or so UNDER tagged size in length if you get all the shrinkage out of them. The interesting thing about vintage cuts is if you have a slim build, the waist will be ok, but the seat and thighs will always be very roomy.

 

 

Thanks for the insights, but I won't wash them and ruin the patch Still they wouldn't fit, and it would make the selling even harder. It was a game from the beginning, and sometimes you don't hit it. I will buy a onewashed, in I guess a 31 in a couple of month. I really want to own the Okinawa, I like every detail about it.

 

Cheerio!!

[jung]

I received the Okinawa today. They are raw (N). Definetly. But I was the last one to recognize that anyway ...

 

Here are some pics of the pre-soak fit. The fit is very generous, to say the least. It could be to big for me, even though I think I did my mathematics correct. But I soaked them anyway, out of pure curiosity, for more than 2 hours, very gentle. I do not want to harm the snake skin patch. The details are very nice!

 

I am interested in the result, and your thoughts. I have measured a 33,85 inch waist pre-soak, and after all I need a 32, 32.5....

 

 

 

 

 

Goodday!

 

What is the shirt?

[Blue Nemo]

 

That shirt actually is 7, or maybe, 8 years old. Its from H&M and I don't remember its original color.

Nothing fancy.

[jonmhenderson]

Cool, just remember on vintage cuts, get out of the mindset of sizing down. To get jeans that are tight on the thighs and seat would require a waist that would be super tight.

[Blue Nemo]

Cool, just remember on vintage cuts, get out of the mindset of sizing down. To get jeans that are tight on the thighs and seat would require a waist that would be super tight.

 

nah, I don't wanna water the vintage cut. Actually as long the waist is fine, I think the rest will fit in. That is, if I get the right size, and even though I thought a 32 in an Okinawa would fit me perfect, it doesn't. At least it should have fit me in one-wash (both SE & Hinoya size charts). 

Don't really know why there is such a great difference in sizing between the raw and one-washed version. Maybe I get this wrong, but I am pretty sure that I don't get a 31 waist in my Okinawa after some more washes. Though that is what I needed.

 

Kudos!