Unknown Japanese Brands

[Duke Mantee]

So not unknown because it’s all been discussed here before 

[Maynard Friedman]

This pair is from the 2004 Lightning Denim Style book. They are sanforized 1954s, hence the lower price. They also have black fly buttons. There are a number of references to Evisu/Yamane in the text.

This is similar to the pair that @julian-wolf posted (on sale for ¥63k) a couple of pages back.

Edited April 25, 2021 by Maynard Friedman

[Maynard Friedman]

A washed pair from Lightning 2006 Denim Style book. There is some talk about a hiatus (8 years - 1997-2005?) between the original (sample?) model and the resumption of production. Further mentions of Yamane but it may simply be because he was so revered in the denim world.

Edited April 25, 2021 by Maynard Friedman

[Maynard Friedman]

All the Gardener info is on their own website

Spiral Jeans Shop link too.

Those recently produced 1954s were 16oz but are sold out.

Also found this summary re Gardener history (translated version):

Ichiro Ueki founded Allen & Hanson in the 1980s to sell American-style clothing. Since 1995, it has been producing high-quality jeans. Since Ueki means gardening in Japanese, EVIS founder Hidehiko Yamane (Ueki San friend) named the brand Gardener, and also undertook the production of Gardener jeans. The jeans are knitted with old-fashioned looms to give the pants a deep indigo blue. In 1997, Gardener, EVISU, DryBones, and Storm Blue jointly launched the TAKE 5 collaboration series to push Ichiro Ueki to the peak of his career.

Edited April 27, 2021 by Maynard Friedman

[Double 0 Soul]

Nice find Martin, on their own website too? who'd ever think to look there of all places....

I love that blue Koi Hawaiian shirt...damn my no buy principles are under threat

 

[Maynard Friedman]

In for a penny, in for a pound. Why not order the 37s too, for ¥25k? Only 16 pairs (of 70 produced) left!

Edited April 27, 2021 by Maynard Friedman

[Double 0 Soul]

Jesus! i'm not made of money!!

I wonder if they run those 37's annually.. i was chatting with flash about them back on the 9th of April 2020 and the photo's had been floating around for some time

I'm sure they would have sold more than 54 units in 12mts

[beew]

Recently snagged this Deluxeware 91b repro on rakuten for a whopping 4000 yen. Don’t know much about Lee repros, but I really fell in love with the design the first time I laid eyes on it.

For you zipper enthusiasts, how accurate are these Waldes zippers compared to vintage 91b’s?

[Duke Mantee]

I think (but stand to be corrected) Lee mainly used Talon but your jacket looks right to me (maybe slightly slimmer cut) so ¥4000 is a bargain

[robotbox]

Re: Neputa Genus, I have a pair and I’ve never been quite sure what to call them as they are also branded as Tsugaru Jeans. I usually just lump them in mentally with the rest of my Warehouse collection (apologies for posting photos previously seen in the Warehouse thread)

Edited April 29, 2021 by robotbox

[Duke Mantee]

No - just no

Lynch

[Broark]

1 hour ago, Duke Mantee said:

No - just no

Lynch

You sure you didn't mean to post these in the Ugliest Jeans thread? 

[unders]

I can’t unsee these. 

[Duke Mantee]

1 hour ago, Broark said:

You sure you didn't mean to post these in the Ugliest Jeans thread? 

I was torn - the only thing I knew was not to post them in two threads

1 hour ago, unders said:

I can’t unsee these. 

I’m so sorry …

[LazyS]

Do you think the hems have a chainstitched chain stitch?

Edited July 6, 2021 by LazyS

[Broark]

On 4/17/2021 at 6:48 AM, unders said:

Some fit pics of the Brass/Signal pair I posted above

How are you enjoying these after a few months? Any signs of wear so far?
Whenever they’re restocked I’m thinking about getting a pair since I don’t really have anything this early.

[unders]

16 hours ago, Broark said:

How are you enjoying these after a few months? Any signs of wear so far?
Whenever they’re restocked I’m thinking about getting a pair since I don’t really have anything this early.

Yes, still enjoying these. My only complaint is I’ve had to restitch all the suspender buttons as the original stitching was pretty poor. 

No signs of wear yet. Still wearing my TCBs a lot. I think the combination of the fit and (light)weight of the denim will make these slow-faders, which is fine by me. 
As I wear them low the combs will be nice & low:

[Maynard Friedman]

Slow and low, that is the tempo.

[Broark]

Definitely figured these would be slow faders with the light weight denim and loose cut.
That's what I'm after for the summer here.

[MJF9]

Summer wear… Sun Surf rayon shirt showing seven works from Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai’s ‘Thirty-six Views of Mt. Fuji’... nicely packaged too

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Another new one man brand, Slash Overalls.

https://www.instagram.com/slashoveralls/

 

I follow him on IG and he already had his shop open with some stock but it seems he updated his website and will start September 1st with his project.
High initial price I would say, the first models he sold were definitely cheaper

 

https://slashoverall.base.shop/

Edited August 30, 2021 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Broark]

Very into this new Colimbo jacket releasing this fall.

[MJF9]

So I like the look of the YM factory t-shirts so registered for the restock notice... my word, they were gone in a flash!

[Broark]

The YM Factory stuff moves so quickly, I was after a pair of the Army trousers and before I could even confirm with the size chart they were gone.
Gotta be Quick Draw McGraw on these.

[unders]

On 9/1/2021 at 6:08 PM, Broark said:

Very into this new Colimbo jacket releasing this fall.

Love that. Junky have released a similar, but unlined, WW2 coat under the Payday / JC Penney label: 

 

Similar black laurel-wreath buttons: 

Here’s the link in case anyone is interested in more info http://blog-jkstyle.jugem.jp/?eid=3362#gsc.tab=0

Main reason I dig this style of coat is I spotted a lovely WH one in a Lightning magazine recently - bonus points for super rusty buttons:

[MJF9]

Yeah @unders it's nice that Payday... nearly went for one but too similar to my At Last Co... is it on your shopping list?

[unders]

@MJF9 Plan on wearing my WH shacket exclusively, so a denim chore coat over that might be a bit overkill. Hoping to enjoy this vicariously through another sufu’er. 

[MJF9]

@unders yeah true might tip it over when you add in the denim shirt, denim hat and jeans with the WH and Payday!

Will be good to see that WH shacket develop - t'was looking great on that pic of you getting wet in Wales

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

What about black sign? Anyone tried them? More specifically this model 

https://blacksign-lodge.jp/products/detail/334

but would love to hear any experience with this brand. 

[Broark]

If anyone runs across this Colimbo jacket in XXL drop me a line: https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000005304