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Foxy2

Kings of Slub - jeans made from slubby denim...

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A thread for seriously slubby denim and the jeans made from... - selvage/selvedge or not - made in Japan or not

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Hi Mods - I checked but couldn't find a separate thread dedicated to is subject - if there is one please let me know and delete this thread...

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Starting off with the most obvious models...

6dcd480408f05c56f124a046786f732e_zps74cb

f7f008a8aaf31e66e6f3e472475fca35_zps4c50

e88f62fc93e215e062df218c69ecfe2d_zps5bbb

Oni 0211

357b790c4ef4bc784d010f9b76128dc2_zps6423

Eight-G 804-XX

a8ef62d7b382f57f33c566a90c6a2882_zpsc060

Eternal 872

575c025d03c9ef308a2621883604ae12_zps029a

bf5387f673f333f3a1104a43fc25e457_zps342a

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the eternal 877 are pretty slubby AND use two types of dye...

 

pics here:

 

http://amerkaji-meme.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/eternal-877-natural-indigos-10th.html

 

 

I must admit, when my eternal 868's (same as the 872's) started to fade they looked a bit messy... I think very slubby jeans look best when raw... PBJ have the balance right imo

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I think I have owned or handled most slubby denim (PBJ, ONI, Sammies, etc).. and the most unique slubby texture comes from Red Cloud 400H (Cotton and Hemp mixture fabric). It is not the most slubby in terms of bumpiness but the crazy furriness + patchy uneven texture gives it a very old, dusty vintage look and really stands out from the crowd. 

 

RC400HTexture.jpg

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Foxy, are all those jeans actually slubby in terms of irregularity of shape and size of the yarns or are some of them just streakily dyed smooth denim with a striated appearance? I can't really tell from the pictures (especially on my iPhone!).

I think a good definition at the beginning of the thread to qualify the jeans would be useful.

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DIRT DENIM 

Denim with a feeling of irregularity that hark back to the road surface before it is paved as its name suggests.

There softness tension and Heavy weight, is handmade feeling nostalgic. There is a texture of unique cell bitch denim power loom of old twisted, woven by shuttle loom in a sweet thread with the uneven thicker than normal thread, both weft. Producer of denim, production efficiency is not good never old power loom only a few units in Kurashiki, Okayama Prefecture, craftsmanship that you have built up over many years is required.

 

 

Trophy Dirt Denim, rough, slubby, uneven, hairy as hell.

 

2013-06-02135627_zps1a78de5e.jpg

 

2013-06-02135640-2_zpsce941fca.jpg

 

2013-06-02135648_zps9bfba9a6.jpg

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Elhaus  - Hand Woven, 20oz, left hand twill, special dye technique. Very uneven natural texture, and the world first hand woven heavyweight denim.

 

IMG_4822_zpsb284d137.jpg

 

IMG_4826_zpsf8dbc001.jpg

 

IMG_4828_zps326ec9c4.jpg

 

IMG_4830_zps2a3d2f01.jpg

 

IMG_4832_zps9c61875f.jpg

 

Much rougher in reality than these iPhone shots show.

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Yeh, those shots are a great representation of colour, and an awful representation of texture. I'll ask Saintkeat to add some better pics to this thread when he has time.

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How to cop - Wait for them to go on sale later this year.

How to size - True

Whats the fit - Slim(ish) straight.

 

These jeans are going to take a lot of people by surprise.

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I think I have owned or handled most slubby denim (PBJ, ONI, Sammies, etc).. and the most unique slubby texture comes from Red Cloud 400H (Cotton and Hemp mixture fabric). It is not the most slubby in terms of bumpiness but the crazy furriness + patchy uneven texture gives it a very old, dusty vintage look and really stands out from the crowd. 

 

RC400HTexture.jpg

 

they look amazing - and the are the texture I prefer. Hairy and dense. The first three jeans slubbiness all comes from there irregular weaving (which actually has a pattern to it almost if you handle them). The hairier type jeans have a slubbiness on the inconsistency of the fibres - lovely. Please post more info on the Red Cloud 400H!

 

EDIT - found em -  http://0736style.taobao.com/

Edited by viv1984viv

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Foxy, are all those jeans actually slubby in terms of irregularity of shape and size of the yarns or are some of them just streakily dyed smooth denim with a striated appearance? I can't really tell from the pictures (especially on my iPhone!).

...

They are truly slubby in terms of thread/yarn diameter. The dye for these 3 models is consistent - the electric blue and fading will make the dye appear uneven because the uneven thread/yarn sections with more exposure will rub off sooner.

For uneven dye we would have to point to Eternal 877 (will post them later...).

Regarding picture resolution quality: I'll post a link to the photobucket album, maybe the quality is better...

http://photobucket.com/albums/x338/KPFoxy/Slub

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Next bunch - natural indigo

79a082e4c5b84a2bde9eb8038decbb20_zpsc738

Bottom to top:

PBJ AI-002

Kicking Mule Workshop 1950 AWA

S5000AI-OGSP & S510AI-OGSP (left & right hand twill)

7cc3cb67bcf66d9dc5a62145fa2c7eff_zpsc101

c937b13e19a404289c5e4880c67d2727_zps77b3

6d52415d7f91143440d0b92f132b22c7_zps9471

0b786cd0ed3f75fe148b6545a00f789e_zps2355

16623debff1759a2e621212558c6997a_zps6a26

48812af60f6330d21e97767e449a6acf_zps7115

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We are missing the natural indigo ONI and a few of the older Samurai models.

Not to mention 45rpm...

Maybe some of the others can chip in and contribute?

Edited by Foxy2

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Here come a bunch of the more exotic ones...

a88818d6b8c3ca5be1d6185c2d9f7362_zpsba30

Eternal - Persimmon

Eternal 877 - natural indigo, 2 shades of blue

Sugar Cane SC40400 & SC40500 - natural indigo

Sugar Cane SC40302A-342

0e25064c2589f7591cc2fdebba0e16b4_zps21f4

33178910c30b61eda0a0ab08e15ecd27_zps5b4c

47e7fc916dcd8fbeef0fd25579840b25_zpsccd2

66244a54f5310151bc16b020bd92ab77_zpsfc7c

a55e97abbc64f8fcaf188cef9af05307_zpsd70f

bbcffe068aaec46ade1767936d4bda5e_zpsa2e8

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Anyone with an old style pair of Samurai S0110xj Jin's feel like posting a macro?

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Personally, I would define it as an uneven, loose weave, rough textured denim, caused by variation in thread size, and vintage weave process.

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Quick search...

slub (slb)

tr.v. slubbed, slub·bing, slubs

To draw out and twist (a strand of silk or other textile fiber) in preparation for spinning.

n.

1. A soft thick nub in yarn that is either an imperfection or purposely set for a desired effect.

2. A slightly twisted roll of fiber, as of silk or cotton.

[Origin unknown.]

The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition

n

1. (Clothing, Personal Arts & Crafts / Textiles) a lump in yarn or fabric, often made intentionally to give a knobbly effect

2. (Clothing, Personal Arts & Crafts / Textiles) a loosely twisted roll of fibre prepared for spinning

vb slubs, slubbing, slubbed

(Clothing, Personal Arts & Crafts / Textiles) (tr) to draw out and twist (a sliver of fibre) preparatory to spinning

adj

(Clothing, Personal Arts & Crafts / Textiles) (of material) having an irregular appearance

[of unknown origin]

Collins English Dictionary – Complete and Unabridged

Noun 1. slub - soft lump or unevenness in a yarn; either an imperfection or created by design

burl, knot

raggedness, roughness - a texture of a surface or edge that is not smooth but is irregular and uneven

Based on WordNet 3.0, Farlex clipart collection

slub (slÊŒB)

v. slubbed, slub•bing,

1. to extend (slivers of fiber) and twist slightly in carding.

2. the fibers produced by slubbing.

3. a slight irregularity in yarn.

[1825–35; orig. uncertain]

Random House Kernerman Webster's College Dictionary

Wikipedia does not give much:

A slub or thick spot in a yarn is created by varying the tightness of the twist of the yarn at various intervals.

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Technically speaking, coarse threads/yarns (hairy or not) and/or "rough" weaving do not necessarily result in a "slubby" fabric texture, but I have no problem to include the resulting fabrics here.

I, personally, would define "slub" and "slubby" here as threads/yarns of uneven diameter.

"Slubby fabric" is characterized by uneven thickness resulting from the use of uneven threads/yarns and/or non-standard conditions during the weaving process ("rigged looms").

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Sometimes the slub can be due to extra fibers (possibly airborne) creeping into the thread during the weaving process or just a knot in the thread.

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Foxy's above post brings back of the intense regret I feel for missing out on every single persimmon dyed limited edition ever.

arggggghhh

 

Sugar Cane please read this forum and bring back the colored Okis.

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Anyone with an old style pair of Samurai S0110xj Jin's feel like posting a macro?

Got a few different pairs made from Jin denim - none of them I would label slubby...

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Weird, I've owned some S0110xj's and a Jin jacket both of which I would describe as very slubby.

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