Shoes that look better with age...

[tmadd]

http://www.beams.co.jp/beams_e/html/topics_0802.php

Does anybody know what type of last the "Military Last" is that was used on one of the pairs on this page? It lookes to be a bit intersting...Plus as Bill was just stating this pair has Eyelets all the way up and no speed lace hooks...This could be a nice look....

I just spent five minutes looking closely at that shoe and trying to determine whether it was something I haven't seen from Alden before, or whether it is Trubalance or Barrie plus a weird angle and small picture making it difficult to tell. That boot looks pretty great though, as does the scotch grain cap-toe on Beams.

[robertorex]

Akilae, how are those feeling? Are they wearable at all without an insole or is the ride too hard on those?

[vegetaray123]

I just spent five minutes looking closely at that shoe and trying to determine whether it was something I haven't seen from Alden before, or whether it is Trubalance or Barrie plus a weird angle and small picture making it difficult to tell. That boot looks pretty great though, as does the scotch grain cap-toe on Beams.

I also did this and to me it looks very much like a Trubalance last....Too small to make a definate ID though....

[LeatherSOUL]

Sorry guys, Military last is the same as the Modified, can't order it, a Japan exclusive. It's like the Modified with a broader toe area.

[LeatherSOUL]

dammit:mad: they told me it was an exclusive! well the Tassels version has the heel tab... on Leather Soul it says this boot was their fastest-ever to sell out:cool:

This is exactly the reason why I try to keep things somewhat secretive until I release. It's not like I own the design, but I like to keep it fresh for my customers first.

[LeatherSOUL]

I think a Grant last straight tip with perferations, close heel regular welt, with double leather sole, metal eyelets all the way up, would look pretty retro. The Grant has a little toe box bump that gives it a Budapest look. This would look pretty WWII/air trooper to me.

[vegetaray123]

Sorry guys, Military last is the same as the Modified, can't order it, a Japan exclusive. It's like the Modified with a broader toe area.

So another last bites the dust then...Now that I look at it that looks pretty close to pics I have seen of a Leydon Last as well...I have never actually seen a Leydon Last in person but from pics that looks fairly close...

Would it be possible to get that basic boot right there with double leather sole and all eyelets in #8 Tom...Only on a Leydon Last?

**EDIT** The Grant Last is a great idea as well Tom I never considered that until you mentioned it.......**EDIT**

[Akilae]

Akilae, how are those feeling? Are they wearable at all without an insole or is the ride too hard on those?

There's a short-ish review on p.499 if you want to take a look at my first impressions.

After one day of walking around in them, I guess I'll have the following to add:

I decided to try them out with thick wool socks, no inserts, since the boot seemed to fit better that way. However, the leather is so thick and stiff that it's just not breaking in, at least not was well as the Alden 405s did. I don't think the leather has shaped around my ankle at all, and the crease in the toebox is digging into my toes whenever I take a step. The Aldens didn't become fully comfortable until the third week, so I'm guessing the service shoes will take substantially longer.

In terms of shoe to pavement contact, I'm actually liking it. The extra rubber on the bottom of the boot is making it a tad less jarring than the 405.

In the meantime I'm trying all the tricks I've heard about helping the boots break in faster... kneading the leather, rubbing the creases with a screwdriver handle... only thing I haven't done is dunk the boots in water, which I don't want to do.

Another thing: these shoes are definitely made to be shined. They stubbornly refuse to absorb the Obenauf's I coated over them. The Obenauf's just sorta sat on the surface and dried up.

[vegetaray123]

I think a Grant last straight tip with perferations, close heel regular welt, with double leather sole, metal eyelets all the way up, would look pretty retro. The Grant has a little toe box bump that gives it a Budapest look. This would look pretty WWII/air trooper to me.

Here is a pic of the "Bump" from the Grant Last your talking about Tom no?...Pic is by "robin" in the Supermarket Forum a few months back...

[YoungPunch]

I think a Grant last straight tip with perferations, close heel regular welt, with double leather sole, metal eyelets all the way up, would look pretty retro. The Grant has a little toe box bump that gives it a Budapest look. This would look pretty WWII/air trooper to me.

I like this. Cool idea Tom and Tmadd for thinking retro!

[LeatherSOUL]

Here is a pic of the "Bump" from the Grant Last your talking about Tom no?...Pic is by "robin" in the Supermarket Forum a few months back...

You can't tell too much, but there is a little bump on the toe area. You can't see it in that pic.

[Happy Hooligan]

There's a short-ish review on p.499 if you want to take a look at my first impressions.

After one day of walking around in them, I guess I'll have the following to add:

I decided to try them out with thick wool socks, no inserts, since the boot seemed to fit better that way. However, the leather is so thick and stiff that it's just not breaking in, at least not was well as the Alden 405s did. I don't think the leather has shaped around my ankle at all, and the crease in the toebox is digging into my toes whenever I take a step. The Aldens didn't become fully comfortable until the third week, so I'm guessing the service shoes will take substantially longer.

In terms of shoe to pavement contact, I'm actually liking it. The extra rubber on the bottom of the boot is making it a tad less jarring than the 405.

In the meantime I'm trying all the tricks I've heard about helping the boots break in faster... kneading the leather, rubbing the creases with a screwdriver handle... only thing I haven't done is dunk the boots in water, which I don't want to do.

Another thing: these shoes are definitely made to be shined. They stubbornly refuse to absorb the Obenauf's I coated over them. The Obenauf's just sorta sat on the surface and dried up.

I actually find my garrison boots more comfortable after a long day than my 405's. I agree that walking is less jarring than the 405.

Than 405's fit better on the foot, but for the money the garrison shoe is quite comfortable!

[MiniW]

I am not quite sure which "bump" Tom is referring to, but here are some pics of my Alden boots in the Grant Last when they were new.

The idea of the perforated straight tip is very good. I had a similar thought upon looking at the WWII impressions boots for the second time. The Grant last is a very handsome last, and I think it is versatile in that it is fit for a rugged (military) look, but IMO can be dressy as well.

[edmond]

what last are these ?

[vegetaray123]

I am not quite sure which "bump" Tom is referring to, but here are some pics of my Alden boots in the Grant Last when they were new.

The idea of the perforated straight tip is very good. I had a similar thought upon looking at the WWII impressions boots for the second time. The Grant last is a very handsome last, and I think it is versatile in that it is fit for a rugged (military) look, but IMO can be dressy as well.

WOW! That is a really nice boot...I can just imagine it...perf tip...eyelets all the way up...and in #8 it's just blowing my mind...

[LeatherSOUL]

Maybe you can't see it when there is a cap toe. I've seen a sample Grant last plain toe blucher and the bump was very obvious.

[aho]

Here are my 4060's in the Grant last that I posted a few weeks ago...pretty much pointless to post, but I'm bored and I can't get over these

Wasn't sure what bump on the toe that was being referred to either...

[rodeo bill]

I don;t know anything about the Grant Last, but for the purposes of general shoe discussion, I think what Tom is talking about is on a Budapest-style shoe (eg Vass) like this:

the characteristic shape has an almost vertical toe end, like a bump. It's similar to the classic US military (corcoran style) toe shape. Personally I'm not that crazy about it on dress shoes, but it certainly is a 'classic' detail. Hope that helps, and Tom please correct me if that;s not what you mean:)

[Akilae]

I actually find my garrison boots more comfortable after a long day than my 405's. I agree that walking is less jarring than the 405.

Than 405's fit better on the foot, but for the money the garrison shoe is quite comfortable!

I can see that happening, just gotta break in the friggin shoes first...

[drapygo]

dang , i really want a pair of those aldens. say Edmond, you said Bill can get them for under $300? or are they something else?

[Ichiran]

I recently had the local guy put on some Topy's on my Stows so that I won't die next time I walk on wet tiles, slate or carpet. And they weren't cheap. $40 for the pair. It's pretty much the same with every other cobbler. $40-$50. 5 years ago I had a pair of RM Williams Topy'ed for $20. Things have definitely changed. Cream Topys to match the leather underneath.

I never get tired of seeing Stows in this beautiful color. Nice job getting the soling done in cream -- that seems classy to me. How hard is it to replace them when the time comes? Can you keep the leather sole, or does everything need to be replaced at that point?

[LeatherSOUL]

I don;t know anything about the Grant Last, but for the purposes of general shoe discussion, I think what Tom is talking about is on a Budapest-style shoe (eg Vass) like this:

the characteristic shape has an almost vertical toe end, like a bump. It's similar to the classic US military (corcoran style) toe shape. Personally I'm not that crazy about it on dress shoes, but it certainly is a 'classic' detail. Hope that helps, and Tom please correct me if that;s not what you mean:)

Yup, exactly what I mean but I swear it was very obvious on the plain toe blucher sample I saw a few months ago.

[Happy Hooligan]

I can see that happening, just gotta break in the friggin shoes first...

you really should just soak them and wear them...

That's what they did in wwii....

[Paul T]

I never get tired of seeing Stows in this beautiful color. Nice job getting the soling done in cream -- that seems classy to me. How hard is it to replace them when the time comes? Can you keep the leather sole, or does everything need to be replaced at that point?

They are beautiful, I guess those are the Acorn?

I am just having this done on my Grafters, and will drop off my Kicker's for the same when I pick them up. I think with any stick-on sole, you remove it using a solvent; so you can simply replace the Topy, without having to replace the leather sole. AFAIK this is possible with just about any goodyear-welted leather sole. Oh yeah, and in the UK, it's $41 for the sole and heel!

And as for the 'don't die' comment... when I got my Grifters, I was walking down the (old, Georgian, winding wood) stairs into the basement, carrying my MacBook - slipped, bumped down the stairs on my ass, knocked over two framed pictures which bounced down to the floor, dropped the Macbook which gouged a hole in the plaster... but the only lasting damage was my pride. So stick-on sole protectors make a lot of sense to me!

[tripleterror]

I'm pretty sure 'tmadd' was refering to my first time post reference the forum boot !

After watching this thread for ages without even registering on the forum I was impressed with the knowledge you guys have about Alden boots.

As I live in the UK I have worn boots made here for years but, believe it or not always longed for some Aldens but never really new enough about them until I started reading the posts on this thread. They are really difficult to get over here.

I must admit that I did post the message without giving much thought to the depth of feeling people have for these boots and I must apologise if I've pissed anyone off, I just wanted to be involved with a bunch of like minded people.

I think I will just keep watching the thread a see what happens and trust people with the knowledge to come up with what will be a great boot.

[Dusty Digital]

I was browsing google's newly hosted images from Life and ran into a few fotos I though might be appreciated here:

"Teenage boys sporting their latest shoe fad of wearing G.I. shoes (Army surplus they bought or inherited) which they call "My old lady's Army Shoes" & wear every Tuesday at school."

Des Moines 1948

"A little boy receiving a pair of new boots and clothing from Swiss relief workers."

Poland 1947

[vegetaray123]

Here is a vintage Alden style that has a bump and mili feel that you all are looking for...

Looks to be Trubalance to me and the fact that it's nice and square at the front really gives it a vintage paratrooper feel...

I'm telling yall a Trubalance with a perf straight cap toe...double leather sole...close stitch...eyelets all the way up and in #8 would be a great boot...Just like I said a couple pages back picture an 86 boot in #8 with eyelets all the way up....Plus that nice little heel tab in the back give's it a wwII mili esque boot feel as well (It also shares this in common with the NST Boot we all love)...Plus you can't say it's not vintage as I believe (and I could be wrong) but the 86 boot was the first boot produced using the Trubalance last...405 (which we all can agree is a great model) followed shortly after...

http://centipede.web.fc2.com/alden469.html

Here is one of 86 boot just so you all know what I'm talking about...Picture this in #8 with eyelets all the way up on a double leather sole and you have an amazing boot with a huge vintage / military feel that, as far as I know, hasen't been produced...At least that we've seen...

[Akilae]

Yes, this, this so hard. I even like the detail on the cap toe, looks just like my service boot! Eyelets all the way... although I don't like heel tabs, but that's just me.

[JonB27]

I really like the look of that boot, and I think the heal tab definetly adds character to the boot.

[tmadd]

Does anyone have any good comparison shots of TruBalance and Grant last. I like the idea that was responsible for Tom's suggestion of the Grant, but so far, the photos we've seen have made the TruBalance look like a great option for these boots. Also...what was the bit about the 86s and how those were the first boots built on the Tru Balance last? Is that somewhere earlier in this thread, or somewhere else online I could check out? It seems like a #8 version of the 86 could meet many of our aesthetic requirements and be a vintage Alden homage as well.

Speaking of homages to vintage Alden...I don't know what you are cooking up for the heelpad ?mark, but I was just looking at pictures of vintage Aldens, and though I admittedly don't have much of an eye for these things, I think there might be some interesting things you could do based on the old school Alden "4 As" Logo.