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Levi's Vintage Clothing


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I'd just like to see a basic range that included 37's, 44's, 47's, 55's and 66's along with the Type 1-3 jackets. The occassional special edition would be nice, they never seem to have done a mid 50's jean with the offset belt loop and a leather patch. If they could decide on a pattern for a first 501 you could throw that into the mix too. That'd satisfy most aspects of their repeat buying core market and they could then do select reproductions of vintage used jeans from their archives on a seasonal basis for the collectors and to respond to current trends in the marketplace.

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I think the thing they need do is decide on which jeans to reproduce based on significant changes in the evolution of the brand. The one's I listed cover most bases, the 37's for the looser cut, crotch rivet and cinch, 44's because they were the first to lose these features, 47 because they were the point at which the classic 501 became fully evolved, 55's for the paper patch and 66's for the slim fit which represented the move away from work wear and into fashion.

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Allen, what you said re the older models is exactly correct, ie Levi's have an 1880 example and a good 1890 example, but I'm not sure they have a model to copy in between the two - thanks to the eartthquake/fire, they don't know details like exaclty when the 501 Lot Number was first used.

I think the thing they need do is decide on which jeans to reproduce based on significant changes in the evolution of the brand.

Exactly. That is pretty much what they have done in the past (in fact, Levi's Japan used to have pretty much everything available in the range) at one time.

Over the past six years or so they have produced all of the key models: 1901 (two pocket), 1920s or 1933 (red line COne fabnric), 1939, 1944, 1947, 1954 and 1966. The key early models were the 1880 (ie the Nevada jean, whcih is the pre-501, earliest known model) and the 1890 (Calico mine, classic 1 pcket 501). Levi's Japan also produced Allen's 1953, a leather patch 50s cut. I thought they were on a kind of rolling program, reintroducing every model every year or two, but that seems to have fallen by the wayside.

But you know what, even if they just produced deadly-accurate versions of the 1880 and 1947 versions, plus the 1933 for Allen, in deadstock, year-in year-out, I'd be happy. You would think that there should always be an early model, a classic 30s cinchback and modern cut in the range, permanently...

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Will and I like the suspender buttons and the lighter weight denim on some of the earlier models also the blue/green line stuff on the 20s 201s is really special. And by the way I really like the 33s I scored from you. VERY NICE...

Agreed, those jeans are very nice, but a bit harder to wear for the average person. The sort of thing they should keep doing as well researched special editions.

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Just got the 67 trucker jacket the other day from the san fran store, if you get it realize that a size medium is roughly a 38-40, it fits like a 38 jacket right now, so if you are a 38 suit size do not get the small it will be too small.

also if you are 5'6" or around that you might have to get the sleeves shortened, i know that they are at least 1.25 inches too long right now, so i will have to get a tailor to move the cuffs up the arms that much the shrinkage will then shrink ti down another 1/2 inch to make it perfect lenght.

othat than that it is a great looking classic jacket, pretty sharp looking and somewhat form fitting so for the medium you really can't have a waist larger than say 31-32 inches tops something to consider.

anyone here have any luck with having sleeves shortened on a denim jacket?

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Levi's Japan do it too, at least they had jeans identical to Cotton Duck's in their range, as a so-called '1873 jean'.

The big question is where reasonable extrapolation from the known facts becomes fiction. It wouldn't necessarily matter, but for the fact that your old jeans, and Airfrog's, cannot both have existed, ie they're making incompatible guesses over different years.

I like Airfrog's jeans, have just bought some similar SCs, but it annoys me that they arbitrarily mess around with features. IE they keep the unusual construction/stitching on the back pocket and yoke, and the early rivets of the Nevada jeans. But then they get rid of the pliers pocket and change the patch and claim it's an '1886 jean.' I think that is a fiction. I believe Allen's jean was US-only. But equally, in the UK/Europe recently, they produced items for which there was no historical precedent. This, combined with production errors such as the wrong pockets on the recent 201 replicas, makes their range unnecessarily confusing.

I totally understand why they change the range year by year (although having a hard-core of the classics that remain in the range would make a lot of sense). But not producing an accurate 1880 replica for five years, while producing a bunch of inaccurate models derived from it, seems bizarre to me. This fall's range does look more impressive than recent ones, though, and I continue to believe that when they get it right, LVC do produce excellent jeans, so I hope there'll be some good stuff coming up...

What is this? Paul T going for a pair of Sugar Canes. Say it ain't so. Next thing ya know you will be entering a denim contest featuring samurai S0500XX jeans.

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What is this? Paul T going for a pair of Sugar Canes. Say it ain't so. Next thing ya know you will be entering a denim contest featuring samurai S0500XX jeans.

LOL, there are already some Samurais in the T household... and I thought of joining the competition but there's no space under the bed for any more jeans, and I already have four or five pairs there that will take me three years to wear in...

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My thoughts on the Levis repro-ing issue (although by no means an expert)

We presume that Levis made only one lot of 501s in 1933 for example.

But the reality is that certain products sell out, and are produced in more than one batch each year. So for example, (presumably) Levis didnt just make 10, 000 pairs of 501 in January 1947 and then once they sold out by June say "oh well, we won't make anymore until January 1948"...

They make another lot (to suit retailer demand, as necessary).

But the second lot might have subtle or not so subtle changes in. Maybe they hired a new designer? Maybe they got feedback that customers didn't like detail XYZ ? Maybe the original pattern was lost half way through 1947?

But both lots of jeans were still made in 1947, so technically they are both still a Levis 501-47.....

Just my thoughts.

(P.S. Cotton Duck - did you get my PM? cheers)

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LOL, there are already some Samurais in the T household... and I thought of joining the competition but there's no space under the bed for any more jeans, and I already have four or five pairs there that will take me three years to wear in...

you know, if you really want to do the compitition, ill wear them for you and just send you the pair i win after a year :)

also, since youre getting into canes, and i know youre a lee fan, have you checked out the canes 1945b? id highly reccomend it... wonderful repros with a bit of a (leg) twist.

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My thoughts on the Levis repro-ing issue (although by no means an expert)

We presume that Levis made only one lot of 501s in 1933 for example.

But the reality is that certain products sell out, and are produced in more than one batch each year. So for example, (presumably) Levis didnt just make 10, 000 pairs of 501 in January 1947 and then once they sold out by June say "oh well, we won't make anymore until January 1948"...

They make another lot (to suit retailer demand, as necessary).

But the second lot might have subtle or not so subtle changes in.

A good point. In fact, Levi's just pick certain years because that's when significant changes happen. THey reckon the shape changed every decade or so in response to fashion, but there's a good chance there were other detailed changes. PLus,little details, like the lemon stitching etc, AND the offset belt loop that so many obsess over, vary from factory to factory. At some point, when I next do a relevant project with LEvi's, I'm hoping to speak to the master pattern cutter and ask what evidence they work from.

Oh yeah, and I know I harp on about Levi's but they are not the only jeans I like. I just happen to have more of them because at odd times I've done stuff with them and asked for jeans as part of my fee...

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Yeah, I definitely need to see an offset belt loop at some point. Come on Levis, give us addicts what we need, without paying for vintage!!

About Levis attitude to LVC.... I sort of don't like it... Its basically 'get what you're given and like it"... Too hard to find the stuff and in too limited supply and size range.

As for people who say "oh, thats because its meant to be exclusive - thats why they limit the supply, even in their own stores". My response is that jeans were ALWAYS intended to be generic work wear: let Marc Jacobs etc worry about exclusivity and 'designer' denim, Levis, just concentrate on producing good quality jeans and LISTENING to consumer feedback...

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Well, my 1933 201s finally arrived from my parents, and I must admit they'd faded more than I remembered - there's even a little whiskering going on. I'll post pics when I get home.

My only problem will be fitting back into them - the eight years that have passed since I bought them have not been kind to my waistline...

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Well, my 1933 201s finally arrived from my parents, and I must admit they'd faded more than I remembered - there's even a little whiskering going on. I'll post pics when I get home.

My only problem will be fitting back into them - the eight years that have passed since I bought them have not been kind to my waistline...

Please post pics... and if they don't fit you and are my size, I may be interested in taking them off your hands, sparing you the trauma of worrying about your waistline. ;)

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Yep, pics will be posted as soon as I get home.

In the same package were my remaining pair of Old Glory selvedge Diesel jeans, from the very first time they did a selvedge denim. I might post a new thread for them too.

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Well, here they are - the 1998 LVC 1933 201 repros. They've sat in a cupboard in my parents house back in the UK for the last 4 years, and I never really wore them enough before that, as they were always a little too tight in the crotch. Now, sadly, it's going to be a while before I can even fit into them again. The last four years living in the US have not been kind to my waistline, and I can't do up the top two buttons!

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I always remember the selvedge being red, but it's actually pink, similar to an old pair of 501s I have, and my old Evis diacock.

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I'm mainly LVC but i have dabbled with Prps, Evis and the odd pair of 101 Lee, Most recently I have had some of the Lee Gold Labels which are not bad for a budget selvage but really stretch on the waist( I'd advise a size down) they don't have chain-stitched hems, quite a nice cut though. similar to '37 LVC.

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I had a pair of 47s that when I bought I had bought too small and I was afraid the shrinkage would be too much to handle. Anyways I have lost about an inch in my waist line so I went and warm soaked them. Damn the denim is darker than before... almost black. The only sad thing is that the length shrunk so much I can't hit my two inch cuff minimum. So I gotta rock with no cuffs... kinda sad. I was looking in the levis store here in santa barbara and they don't sell any inseams over 34 inches. I was hoping for a 36 or 37 inch inseam. Also, I am not a big fan of the leather patches on the new 47s (2006)... kinda cheap lookin.

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