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A 7 hour round trip yesterday to Loughborough University athletics stadium for my lad to run for just over 2 minutes… a great experience and result so it was well worth it

Hi all - longtime reader, first-time poster. I figured this would be the best time as any to make an introduction post. I actually won the auction for the W36 pair, which fortunately had less activity than the other sizes. I have them on-hand now! It's pretty incredible handling a deadstock pair from this era. Kind of a blessing and a curse though - they've been in this state for so long, it's hard to justify taking the tags off and wearing them. For now, since I have a lot of other jeans, I'll keep them as-is and just be thankful that I have a piece of Japanese denim history. BTW - I took new measurements. Here they are, in raw non-wash state: Denime (Shins) 7750 00 No. 70-00-5047 Size 36 Col. 93 Waist: 37" / 94cm Front Rise: 12" / 30.5cm Back Rise: 15.75" / 40cm Upper Thigh: 13.5" / 34cm Thigh 4" (10cm) down: 12" / 30.5cm Knee: 9.75" / 25cm Leg Opening: 9" / 23cm Inseam: 37.5" / 95cm Very long inseam! As one might expect, these are almost identical to the measurements of a pair of raw Resolute 710s that I have, except with a wider leg opening. Happy to answer any questions about this pair or take photos if anyone was curious. Nice to meet you all!

Quick fit pics of the LF44 pair, haven't bothered with cuffing them but probably couldn't hurt.

So a bit of drama in the fancy shoe community, evidently Oak Street Bootmakers is being investigated by the FTC for false claims of their shoes being made entirely in the USA. Reddit link breaking down more information about the FTC warning. Specifically this Storm Boot is in question. They've recently released it (it's still headlining the front page of their website), but mysteriously all of them are now marked down 50%. To make things more interesting, Brett Viberg took to Instagram and seemed to call them out for their false claims as well say saying a former employee helped them establish the production and develop the last with proprietary Viberg lasts: Reddit link. So it appears that Oakstreet is producing the boots in the Dominican Republic, then importing them to have the sole attached and finally slapping a made in USA label on them. Oakstreet has since added an icon on their website saying the boots are "Made in USA with domestic and international materials from trusted sources". I know that this practice isn't uncommon in the industry by any means. I've always heard of some fishy things regarding Oakstreet, but this seems to firmly substantiate them.

Yes, interesting fact. They're writing, that 9oz in the old linear yard standard equals 11.6oz in loomstate and 12.75oz once sanforized. So the 10oz that is on the Levi's labels would translate to 12.9oz and 14.17oz resp..

https://crossovers.shop/items/6895ac3741100fd3d8aa0e9a

From a friend, for a friend 😅

OA has some interesting info on this upcoming denim on their blog as well: link here. I think this was recently being discussed in the vintage jeans thread, but they're using the linear yard measurement to calculate the weight of the fabric. Might try these out, not sure at the moment. I'd like to see some better quality photos first.

It's an absolutely beautiful top, one of my favourites in my collection, I've worn it so many time over the last few winters and it always gets lots of nice comments. The construction and patterning with all the Polartech Powerstretch sections is just incredible and the AD has held up surprisingly well from so many wears, no holes or tears or anything to report. I love my Senchi but the S27 is on a completely different level.

Slash Overalls is a one man brand operating in Shizuoka Japan, and has been operating since around ~2021. Originally he started offering custom jeans, allowing his customers to pick various details: denim, pocket and yoke shape, pocket bag fabrics, cut, etc. Most of these jeans were loosely based on different historical eras that we all know and love. However they were not always marketed as strict reproductions, but more creative interpretations. Many of these had (quite distinct) arcs, which he has since moved away from. Below are a few examples of his earlier offerings ('37, '40s, late 1890s Miner Jeans). (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram) He also ran a series of "grunge models", which had more irregular sewing features. These might seem haphazard, but as mentioned in his blog post the irregular sewing details are intentional and quite difficult to reproduce. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog) In his pursuit of creating a more accurate repro, he graduated to working directly with denim mills on developing his own fabrics to use. With this change in production mentality, he stopped offering custom made jeans and began releasing products in batches. I can't quite figure out the exact rhyme or reason to how each different batch aligns which the denim used, but they are all slight variations. One of the first offerings was the LF44, then NP01, SO02 (aka NP02,), and SL01 (developed in collaboration with Okamoto Textile Co.). LF44: LF44, aged: NP01: NP01, 1 year of wear: SO02: SL01: (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog and Instagram) The last two are more recent releases (late '24), and thus I don't think I've seen any faded photos yet. As seen above, he also makes a few variations of denim jackets, mostly inspired by WWII models and late 40's type I's. One interesting aspect of the way he sizes and grades the patterns for his denim jackets is that he does not adjust the body or sleeve length for larger sizes. He doesn't list the body or sleeve length on product pages, and says that one should be able to size his jackets based on chest and shoulder measurements. I've seen an Instagram post where he states this is how Levi's used to pattern and size their jackets, but I personally am not sure if this is 100% accurate. I haven't gotten one of the jackets yet, but I'm hoping to add one in the future. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram and IG user oto_ten) Alongside his mainline jeans, his most recent undertaking is the XX Grade project. Focusing on reproducing jeans in the most accurate way possible, down to the materials used. These have only just started to be released, but my understanding is that he has been working with different machinists to recreate the machinery used in creating vintage two prong buttons. This line carries a steep price tag, but I haven't been able to track down a pair myself...yet. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog) He also has been working on a line of "vintage aged" denim, assuming this is a similar oxidation process that we've seen from some other makers previously. This line has yet to be released, but I'm interested in the results once he is ready to release the finished product. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog)

S&S preorder page is up with some additional photos: link

I might be careless with my money at times, but I'm not that stupid.

Nice jeans @Broark Anyone copping this 😉? It was shared by a friend

I think, there a lots of videos, articles and discussions on luxury goods, that state that they were "made in Italy" or "Swiss made". Apparently sometimes whole suits were made abroad except for the buttons, which were then finished in Italy and that was still enough to call them "made in Italy". But what if the act of attaching the buttons in Italy is more expensive than sewing the suit somewhere else, so that part would be more than 50% of the cost of manufacturing?

I disagree. Perhaps it’s the old journalist in me, but some skepticism is always warranted when an incomplete online story catches fire. A letter from the FTC is obviously concerning, but there is some grey area in the law that’s defined, and it’s quite possible that they’ve been doing the same thing for quite awhile and it was okay under a previous administration, and now it isn’t. These laws written vaguely as such leave a lot of discretion for enforcement. This isn’t to say they don’t need to comply, and that they should absolutely be transparent about their sourcing - I’m just saying that suspicion ≠ is not confirmation, and I feel like - at least given from what I know in the letter - they should at be given the benefit of the doubt for the period that that the FTC gives them to comply (whatever that actually means in practice). Anyways, it sucks either way, but there’s too much unknown in there at this point. What if, for example, the leather is American, the sole is American, the sole stitching is American, but the stitching on the upper is Dominican. It’s mostly USA, right? I wouldn’t label it MiUSA myself, but the way the law is written arguably leaves room for that, or did. And I do completely agree that it’s not hard to be transparent, and they should if they are not. That said, this can all get pretty complicated because almost everything now is somehow a global product. Even jeans have cotton from one country and thread from potentially somewhere else and hardware from who knows with metal from who knows. I digress - I’m not defending OSB. I just want to see a little more information first.

It wouldn't be a big deal if makers like Oak Street were just transparent about doing this stuff. It's the deception and obfuscation that makes me never want to buy products from these sorts of brands.

In that discussion anothers case gets alluded to. Amazing in many ways. https://www.bostonmagazine.com/news/2021/07/13/richard-hajjar-bianca-de-la-garza-alden/

Plant shutdown fit Stussy x lvc, Carhartt wip, boa

Enjoying first day off work Bonus shot

This weekend: baking pies, moving starts to pots (pictured: Mexican sour gherkins), watching older plants grow older, keeping an eye on the dogs and on the cricket that’s been hanging around our kitchen sink for the past few weeks

.. dried out

🌿 Gardener Overalls — Brand History & Profile Founded in the mid-1990s by Ichiro Ueki, Gardener Overalls is a Japanese denim label deeply rooted in the American workwear tradition, yet distinguished by a unique design ethos and Japanese craftsmanship. 👤 Founder: Ichiro Ueki Ichiro Ueki was originally involved with EVISU and founded an earlier brand called Allen & Hanson in the 1980s. With a deep respect for American vintage workwear, Ueki transitioned toward developing his own denim label. Around 1995–1997, he launched Gardener Overalls. The name “Gardener” was suggested by Hidehiko Yamane, founder of EVISU, because "Ueki" (植木) in Japanese means "to plant" or "gardener" — making the brand name a clever reflection of Ueki’s identity and philosophy. 🔄 Brand Revival with Spiral Jeans After becoming a near-mythical brand among vintage denim collectors, Gardener Overalls was officially revived by Japanese retailer Spiral Jeans in the late 2010s. This relaunch was done in direct collaboration with Ichiro Ueki himself, and includes: Faithful reproductions of older models like the 1954XX New releases such as 1937XX and Hawaiian shirt collections Exclusive limited editions, all sold only through Spiral Jeans (online and in-store) Gardener is now listed as a "Spiral Original Brand", yet remains firmly guided by Ueki's philosophy and technical oversight.

Since denimbro seems to be a ghost-town, I thought I might post here about my recently purchased 1890s. Theyre the MIJ/Kaihara, size 36x32. When I got them in early-mid July, they were monstrously sized on me. I decided to do a soak in a tub of hot water while wearing them, and i got an inch of shrinkage in the inseam, and very little elsewhere on them. I did a nice west coast multi state trip and wore them every single day, and today I wondered if there was a way to get the last of the shrinkage out. machine washed hot, laid out to dry in 92 degree Fahrenheit weather, and just put them back on. I am absolutely shocked at how much more shrinkage was left in them. Prior to the hot tub soak. the waist measured 38", and post wash they were 34.5", but through wearing them just this afternoon, I am at 36". the inseam had only lost 1" during the hot soak, but after the hot wash, they are down to 29.5". For me, I am very shocked that I lost an inch in both the back and front rise. This size 36 now has a 12" front rise, which is fine, but i really liked the near 14" rise before soak. Otherwise, post hot wash, the texture of the denim has improved and seemingly come alive from the 'flat' dry/rigid state. With the still higher rises, the jean now fits like a pair of trousers. Anyone else have a pair of newer MIJ 1890 that had a similar experience?

Congratulations! This thread needs all the pictures! The auction really wasn't that busy, lucky you. Might have been my size but I didn't partake 😅

Way to make an entrance @Vamp

@Vamp Bienvenue! Photos or it didn’t happen 😉

@Vamp Welcome! A solid first post. Congrats on the win. Pics and post-wash measurements tend to be well-received around these parts so you've lined that up nicely

^^ But being transparent likely means lower prices, as seen in Broark’s post above, and therefore impacts the bottom line.

SALE - THE SELF EDGE END-OF-SUMMER SALE - THIS WEEKEND! We’re having an End-Of-Summer sale this weekend! It's not often we have a blanket sale like this... Everything is marked down 15% for four days; come by and check out our new goods, we even have some new fall collections in stock including many recently received summer items from many of the brands we carry. Self Edge Online & In-store Sale:
 Starts 9am (PDT) Friday, August 8
 / Ends 9am (PDT) Tuesday, August 12 Sale in-store and online will be 15% off (excludes Good Art and hems/repairs). Customers which are not local can use a coupon code for 15% off everything in our online store starting at 9am (PDT) Friday August 8, the coupon code will be good until 9am (PDT) Tuesday, August 12. Coupon Code for 15% off in our online store: Summer25 Sale terms cannot be retroactive for past purchases. Shop Online: https://www.selfedge.com

Freenote Cloth shirt, Hollows belt, TCB Late S40s jeans, John Lofgren Steadfast boots. A rare Flat Headless fit for me.

On a little music tour, me and a drummer, staying in houses of folks involved with organizing the concerts. Meanwhile at home our valley is on fire again (The Gifford Fire), it's only been about a month since the last one. The fire crews are getting a lot of work this year...

The patch may be my favorite bit of evo on these jeans.

Probably a couple months behind most, but happy with the progress so far

thanks to @dennnnnnnnn https://web.archive.org/web/20070405045658/http://www.denime.jp/item/jeans/jeans.htm

Meanwhile, patched over the opening to the left front pocket earlier this week with fabric from the cut off hem of one of my Tender Co. shirts, dyed w/ Prussian blue. I’ve stitched over a few seams, previously, but this is the first real repair—almost always is, for me. I really love how the pocket bag denim is fading; it’s a beautiful rich blue. Plus: photos before the upcoming wash, I think no. 5 or 6?

Looks wonderful MJ! It's not gentrification.. it's always been a fancy-pants neighbourhood.. back in the late Victorian period, wealthy steel barons (the finance-bros of their era) fled the pollution of the east-end seeking out the fresh air of the Peak District.. building their houses in the S10 / S11 districts.. Old photos show kids walking to school nr Sharrow Vale in top hat and tails.. even 20yrs ago, S10 was still considered one of the most affluent postcodes outside Kensington and Chelsea. Regarding the accent.. My immediate neighbours are from Hackney, Lowestoft, Belper, Devon, Sydney, Taiwan and Holland.. so not many earthy Sheffield accents there .. the lead singer of the Arctic Monkeys lived just a stones throw from where you're eating your sandwiches.. so entirely faux-Sheffield accent Sadly i'm not one of the winners from all this postcode-prosperity.. when i bought my first house.. i desperately wanted to get out of Sheff.. it was just depressing, most of my old friends had either died, been incarcerated or sectioned due to the heroin boom of the post rave years.. We could have bought the tiny house we live in now for less money than the massive barn conversion we bought out in the sticks.. When our boy came along.. he would walk to his junior school through the farm across the street, stroking lambs enroute, it was idyllic but having been to a god-awful secondary school myself, i was determined to send my kid to a great secondary.. which meant moving back into Sheff and into S10 / S11.. but after the austerity of the Cameron / Osborne years a lot of house prices stagnated, ours included.. it took us 4yrs to sell it, we had 8 viewing during that time, ..i had to drop the price by £70k to secure a sale.. Austerity had no effect on the middle-class folks of S11 which meant the house we bought had 130 viewings in the first week and i had to pay £17k over the asking price.. so i was already £87k down before we moved in .. with Sarah's health issues, she wouldn't have been able to get a mortgage so i had to use my savings to pay off the old mortgage and start a new one from scratch under my name.. which is why i'm currently at work on a Saturday afternoon.. i'm overpaying like a mofo tho!.. i'm equally determined to pay it off while i'm in my 50s ..

The (now) annual Dad and lad weekend away in the Peak District, infamous OO Soul country Quick pit stop en-route at Porter Coffee on Sharrow Vale road - £17 for 2 butties and £1 for parking - how much! Hardly a Sheffield accent to be heard, southern tones aplenty - gentrification of S-codes? Took the WoMs for a walk around Bamford Edge... totally staged pic looking out over the Hope Valley It's a strictly carnivorous weekend - we packed 4.4kg (yes I weighed it) of ribeye, T-bone, lamb... will we get through it all is the question And a sauna to finish the day off...

Two sided "The Rats Hole" Custom Chopper Show '87 single stitch T shirt with bootleg Big Daddy Rat "Fink" on a MIUSA 50/50 Screen Stars medium. Perfect fit and fade, with amazing weird graphics, multiple fonts and a subject matter to make the strs nervous. And that back hit is so good. Perfect 10/10. No notes.

Started wearing these 03s more consistently. These are coming along nicely. Buttons are starting to show some rust. Pocket bags have lightening up a bit.

Thoroughly enjoyed wearing these 220’s. Faded too quickly though, this is from 1 year with a bit of other jeans in rotation.

The monthly wash, fresh out of the machine and waiting for the sun to appear! I forgot to change the previous program on the washing machine (washed cotton bedding the other day) so they were stuck in the machine for 3 hours.. duh

A t-shirt can be made on a loopwheel machine.. tubular knit without side seams It can also be loopwheel material with side seams if they've cut the tube before cutting the pattern. It can be non loopwheeled material without side seams, made on a tubular knitting machine It can also be tubular knit with side seams..

Any love here for prewashed LVC? I really dig my japanese made 1947‘s. Sometimes it‘s just comfortable to jump in one of those pairs.

These will look great with some wear!

And old pair of well worn White Oak Cone denim USA made 1947 501s

Is there any info or does anyone know why LVC make the 66 a much brighter blue that previous 501s? I read a really interesting article (probably linked from here) about magnadraft during the 60s and 70s that creates by accident a more slubby fabric. But for the dye i can't seem to see much info. Looking at Acorn and their big e collection a lot of the jeans look identical (to my untrained eye) to the indigo of the 50s and 40s. I've screenshot a few photos. Also a photo of very blue LVC 66s. Are LVC just trying to differentiate models for selling purposes or is this actually what the jeans were like?

Here are my pair of 555 (Valencia St) May 1999 20s 201a. Had them since new. Very well worn.

Bought this wonderful 1920‘s chambray shirt. Amazing quality.