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Papa Nui, carhartt, Fullcount, vans

A big part of why TFH was so popular ~15 years ago is that back then, there was a lot less variety on the specialty denim market. TFH's denim was closely associated with dramatic fading, and pretty unique in how dark it was - Eternal was the only brand with a similar vibe. That was before the rise of retailers like Okayama Denim or Denimio that catered to the tastes of the Reddit/Instagram crowd and subsequent rise in over-engineered denim with highly exaggerated texture and color, and before the creation of most southeast Asian brands catering to a similar very heavy and abrasive sort of fabric. TFH had a reputation for being the denim that led to the Sickest Fades. Flat Head's denim has never stopped being great, but over time it came to occupy a sort of middle space in between the traditional/heritage style denim represented by Warehouse, Full Count, Denime, TCB, (most) Sugar Cane, etc. and heavily engineered denim of PBJ, Samurai, Oni, Iron Heart, and so on. The people wanting extreme fades gravitated toward more extreme denim, and those seeking more traditional jeans were less interested in brands like TFH as well. Finally, changing tastes in the community in terms of styling meant that TFH's arcuates/branding/etc. that had once looked cool to the streetwear crowd, were again either too much for traditionalists, or not enough for extreme fans. I think TFH could have stayed popular if they had followed the lead of other third and fourth-wave Japanese brands in catering to the more extreme tastes of international fans, but I have a pretty low opinion of 29 oz hyper-slub rainbow weft denim so I don't think this would have been worth it. I admire TFH for sticking to their guns and taking a generally more reserved approach to their fabric development than most brands. And in my opinion, the mid-late 2000s fabrics represented the height of pushing the boundaries of selvedge denim - I don't think modern gimmicky fabrics have surpassed TFH's 14.5 oz, Samurai's 15 oz Otokogi or 17 oz denim, PBJ's XX-011 or XX-005 denim, and so on. Along the way they made some missteps like with the ultrasuede stuff, but I think the impact of this on their popularity was inconsequential; this hardly made it outside of Japan, Pronto is the only retailer I can recall which carried jeans featuring those arcs, and the flashier back pocket designs generally played better in the Thai market back then anyway. I do think that dialing back the rockabilly look and going for a broader vintage basics aesthetic the last few years has worked well for them. Fits are also worth mentioning, TFH had trouble keeping on top of the whims of the international denim community. They had a relaxed tapered fit, the 3012, all the way back in 2013 but the timing was off; it was a few years too early, and seemed to flop. It had already been canceled by the time these fits were all the rage in the latter end of the 2010s. This has largely been resolved though and they have a pretty good lineup of fits at this point. I'm daily driving my 3003xx jeans and 6002W denim jacket, both old stock I got off Japanese auction sites. The 3003xx has to be my favorite fit I've ever worn, the leg is about the same as my 3005s but these jeans have a noticeably longer rise which leads to a more comfortable, better looking pair. And of course the painted arcs and red tab are very cool and quite rare at this point. I'll probably share some updates on those around the end of summer.

Big post incoming! Long overdue, I desperately need to free up some closet space. Should've done this before our daughter arrived but better late than never. All prices include shipping within the US (unless otherwise listed), I'm open to offers / bundle discounts and international shipping (with a charge to cover shipping). Please dm me with any questions or offers. Only posting very basic front / back photos, but I can take more detailed photos of anything if you might be interested in. Rockets 0001XX, size 36, $SOLD. Ooe Yofukuten x S&S Saddle Pants, size 38. Original hem, washed once, only tried on. Just too slim for me these days. $300. Waist: 38 in. Front rise: 12.5 in. Back rise: 17.5 in. Thigh: 14 in. Knee: 9.5 in. Hem: 8.5 in. Inseam: 35 in. Warehouse S1001XX 25th anniversary, size 36. $200. Only tried on a couple of times. One of the rivets fell off in the initial wash, I had Roy replace it for me with an LSD rivet. Waist: 37 in. Front rise: 12.75 in Back rise: 18 in. Thigh: 13.75 in Knee: 10 in. Hem: 9 in. Inseam: 32 in. Warehouse Lot 1202 USN trousers, size 36. $100 Waist: 36 in. Front rise: 13 in. Back rise: 18 in. Thigh: 14.25 in. Knee: 11 in. Hem: 9.5 in. Inseam: 30 in. Warehouse 1001XX old stock, size 36. $50. Waist: 37 in. Front rise: 12 in. Back rise: 17 in. Thigh: 14 in. Knee: 10 in. Hem: 9 in. Inseam: 32 in. Boncoura XX, size 36. $50. Waist: 37 in. Front rise: 11 in. Back rise: 16 in. Thigh: 13.75 in. Knee: 10 in. Hem: 8.5 in. Inseam: 31 in. Mister Freedom Appaloosa, size XXL. $125. Shoulders: 19 in. Sleeve: 27 in. Chest: 23 in. Length: 30.5 in. Mister Freedom Midnight Appaloosa, size XXL. $125. Shoulders: 20 in. Sleeve: 27 in. Chest: 23.5 in. Length: 31 in. Butcher Products chambray, size 17. $SOLD The Rite Stuff chambray, size XXL. $125. Shoulders: 20.5 in. Sleeve: 26 in. Chest: 24.5 in. Length: 31.5 in. Matin pullover chambray (produced by YM Factory), size 16.5 (fits more like a large). $150. Shoulders: 20 in. Sleeve: 25.5 in. Chest: 24 in. Length: 31 in. Buzz Rickson chambray, size XL. Worn quite a lot, elbows have been patch with scraps of Roy denim. $SOLD Strike Gold loopwheeled zip hoodies, black and grey. Size XL. $SOLD Strike Gold loopwheeled indigo dyed crew. Size XL. $125. Shoulders: 23 in. Sleeve: 26 in. Chest: 24 in. Length: 25 in. Stevenson loopwheeled oatmeal crew. Size XL. $125. Freedom sleeve, so some estimating on sleeves / shoulders. Shoulders: 20 in. Sleeve: 27 in. Chest: 24 in. Length: 25 in. Samurai loopwheeled pullover hoodie, green. Size XL. $125. Shoulders: 23 in. Sleeve: 26 in. Chest: 24 in. Length: 25.5 in. Warehouse lot 450 hoodies, grey and eggplant. Size 44. $SOLD Velva Sheen made in Japan pullover hoodie, oatmeal. Size XL. $125. Shoulders: 21.5 in. Sleeve: 25 in. Chest: 24 in. Length: 27.5 in. Stevenson merino sweater, grey. Size XL. $150. Raglan, so shoulder / sleeve estimates. Shoulder: 20 in. Sleeve: 26 in. Chest: 23 in. Length: 27 in. 3sixteen indigo pocket tees. Size XL. $25 for both (plus shipping). Shoulder: 21 in. Sleeve: 7 in. Chest: 23 in. Length: 26.5 in. Bronson tee, grey. Size XXL. $25 (plus shipping). Shoulder: 20.5 in. Sleeve: 27 in. Chest: 24 in. Length: 26.5 in. Samurai loopwheeled tee, black. Size XL. $25 (plus shipping). Note that this one fits quite small. Shoulder: 21 in. Sleeve: 7 in. Chest: 23 in. Length: 25.5 in. Flat Head THC tees, size 46. $25 for grey (small holes near hem), $50 for black. Shoulder: 21 in. Sleeve: 8.5 in. Chest: 23.5 in. Length: 29 in. Mister Freedom Tricot tee. Size XL. $50. Shoulder: 19 in. Sleeve: 9 in. Chest: 21.5 in. Length: 30 in. PBJ Indigo and Natural Indigo dyed tees. Size 5. $50 for indigo, $75 for natural. Shoulder: 19.5 in. Sleeve: 8 in. Chest: 23 in. Length: 28 in. Stevenson short sleeve black indigo henley. Size XL. $75. Shoulder: 18 in. Sleeve 12 in. (includes cuff) Chest: 22.5 in. Length: 28 in. Alden black shell cap toe boots, size 11.5. These need a little love but the wear is pretty minimal. Last is just a bit too narrow for me. Includes box, which is slightly broken on one side. $500. Rolling Dub Trio Coupen, black Italian horse hide. Size 12 (these run large). $400.

Wash no 4 (by hand) and drying in the heat & brilliant Sun. Still wet here.

Guys.. it's less to do with the water and more to do with the salt content in your sweat, the spices in the foods you eat and where your fingers and body have left sweat / salt deposits on the ferrous. A chap i used to work with.. all of his carbon steel carving tools were black.. mine are all silver.. one day, i was struggling to develop a shape i couldn't visualise.. he said pass me your gouge.. i handed it to him and he took it by the blade, he started to carve out the shape and handed it back.. the next day, his fingerprints were rusted into the steel.. i was pissed but 30yrs after his death, i still have his fingerprints rusted into my carving tool which i find quite poignant.

Re: rust

Some background information of the Real McCoys and who was involved and is stil active in the Japanese denim world https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/ザ・リアルマッコイズ

Hard to imagine that we still have 12 months left! Here's some post wash photos of my pair, probably going to start rotating other pairs in so these don't get too washed out before the end of the contest.

Sugarcane 1945 - Merz - Duke - WMJ - Vans

Started wearing these 03s more consistently. These are coming along nicely. Buttons are starting to show some rust. Pocket bags have lightening up a bit.

I suppose it was Simo's blood sweat and tears that caused the rust that I got on that first soak!

The rust on mine is very recent. And I’m guessing might even rub off. It’s pretty superficial (like me! )

@indigoeagle I reached out to them via Instagram and this is the response I received, “We don’t offer mail order about slash overalls. The items will be sold by lottery to customers who visit the store.” Their handle is barnstormer_daily

Life still evolving around pushing the work on the house over the finishing line. With the temperature I can just about manage jean shorts. Tender Co. shirt, Last & Loom shorts

Looks like Neat Style are going to be stocking Little Hand now as well as the BoT and Denim Bridge WWII stuff https://www.instagram.com/p/DL6FfJDzH4S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Rust for me showed up on the first soak and has only gotten marginally more pronounced since then through multiple washes. The water where I am is hard, but not super hard.

For me personally some of it has to do with their arc design, I used to like more unique offerings like theirs (or IH, Strike Gold, etc.) but these days I’d rather have plain pockets or traditional Levi’s arcs. I did try on the new wide cut and it was very nice, but in reality I’ve got way too many jeans in my collection already so I talked myself out of them. I also feel like the rockabilly look isn’t quite as popular these days in Japan as it used to be. Although some of that has been toned down in recent years too. The ultra suede arcs were awful…

There seems to have been a big drop in interest a couple years ago when it seemed like they were closing up shop / when they cut back their catalog to focus more on the basics …but I’d go a step farther & suggest that the ultrasuede was the real beginning of the end

First real day in the M41059 I always assumed these were the same denim as the M41058, but I don’t think that’s the case. They look very similar, and feel similar when raw, but after a wash these feel a lot more crunchy & rougher than I remember the M41058 feeling; I think they may have also shrunk more, although I didn’t take any measurements this time around to confirm. My best guess is that they use the same (or a very similar) initial denim but that the version for the M41058 is sanforized, while the denim for the M41059 is either fully unsanforized or only lightly sanforized. Can any Wrangler history buffs comment on whether this shift would check out from a historical perspective? In any case, really looking forward to seeing how these age in comparison. feat. Great Lakes, Tender Co., Ooe, Union Special, Hollows, Russell

We have four different models in stock actually: https://www.selfedge.com/the-flat-head?category_id=59&sort=p.date_added&order=DESC&limit=60 They're available at all our stores if you want to try them on.. We also have the FN-3005 model hitting all stores in two weeks.

The Real McCoys 1941

A hot and sweaty 94°f /34°c last Saturday while exploring the Old Joliet Prison (Blues Brothers, Prison Break). Rag&Bone sunglasses Vintage Santa Fe Speedway Tee Painted belt 1990 501 Laredo beaters Vintage parasol (not an umbrella!)

Belafonte / canes / lone wolf

Congrats @Bobbo, welcome to Dad Club!

Nonnative Laguna tshirt Phigvel 302 Vans

WW1 Jeans WW2 Jeans WW3 Jeans ?

Evis 2101 lazy S Lee cowboy 101 repro with intact white paint

Evis 2504 'special' with red and yellow gulls