Tender Co. Denim

[rodeo bill]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As always, not everything's for everyone, but I love seeing how designers approach denim when they've not necessarily even considered it before. It's really nice, too, now that I've been doing this project a few years, to see students continuing to do jeans in their graduate collections, and on into their careers. 

Edited April 27, 2015 by rodeo bill

[BillyHoyle]

Great interview on oi polloi! I like the music choices (in particular the wu) and it makes me want to get the butterfly shirt even more

[rodeo bill]

^thank you Billy! Here's a link if anyone's interested. 

 

Here's a fantastic photo I received recently from a customer of his Tender x Hickoree's denim pyjama pants. These are the first I've seen worn in 

 

[rodeo bill]

Just received some more great photos from a customer of his 130s, accessorised with mustard and kale flowers 

 

[Maguire]

Selling a short sleeve butterfly shirt in ecru (Type 432, Size 2) here. among others:

 

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/157961-wts-trickers-phigvel-stevenson-tender-gyakusou-white-mountaineering-gitman-studio-dartisan-ironheart-oni-denime/#entry3141943

[WDD]

Loving my new 470 woad-dyed shirt. Decided to team it up with last years tee and the 129 jeans I've been enjoyng the past months for a proper Tender lovin' look...

 

[Ayebomb]

Just checking in, about 16 months now on my woad 130s. 

 

 

 

 

 

[DhaDha]

beautiful. i need a pair of tender soon. 

do the woad overdye wash  away over time, or are they still noticeable?

[rodeo bill]

^^lovely, Ayebomb, thank you! Here are some photos of a couple of pairs returned for an overhaul by a great friend of the brand (and member here, but not sure if he wants to be named). To answer DhaDha's question- the jeans above are woad dyed, and below are (top) logwood dyed and (bottom) not over-dyed. The woad does stay in the fabric and makes it slower to fade, but it retains a really interesting rich deep colour. In photographs it shows most clearly if you look at the reverse side of the denim (i.e. in the back below the waistband) but in real life there's a definite distinction between the different dyes- even when they get really worn.

 

logwood 131s (there were only 9 pairs of these made, as far as I can remember, as a special for Burg & Schild in Berlin

 

 

rinsed/unborn (not sure?) 130s:

 

[gregd]

They look a lot like mine ;-)

 

Interesting the fading on the knees.

 

I had a motorcycle accident 12 years back so I have a 'titanium nail' in my right leg. For a while after the accident it was more comfortable to kneel on my left knee, so I still do this. Amazing how much I must do this!

 

The second pair started as unborn 130s from the trestle store.

[redragon]

That 131....reminds me I really should rotate my pair in again, I do miss the fabric & details.

Great job!

[Pierogas]

Hi William - is there anything you can tell us about your new watch project yet - or is it all under wraps for the time being?

[rodeo bill]

^oho! thanks Pierogas. Nothing just yet, but it should be really fun. It's potentially slightly larger-scale and longer-term than the few watches made for Tender, so it's taking a little while to sort things out (getting a case milled ). I'll be sure to post up some pictures as soon as things are ready to show.

[rodeo bill]

here's a break from denim, type 134 barge blue canvas trews. These ones have brace buttons but there are also belt loops versions available. Worn about 6 months, washed fairly frequently.

 

 

 

this fabric is woven in England at 16oz, originally as a tarpaulin fabric. It's piece dyed to a colour matched to the side of a barge in dry dock being painted by the guy who did the Tshirt graphic, and the colour wears off really subtly, but beautifully:

 

 

 

 

[discop]

 

Tending to my Tender's. I guess I'm really hard on belt loops, 3 were blown and one was completely off. Wearing them hard though.

[jason995511]

Faded Wattle socks.

[rodeo bill]

terrific! Jason & Discop. Sorry for the lack of posts in the last couple of weeks- I've been crazy busy, getting the upcoming autumn/winter production together (including a new jeans fit, of which more soon ), remaking the stores & trestleshop sites, including a new home for SLEEPER, and building up and testing prototypes and experiments for the following season. Various things should be coming together over the next week or so, and I'll put something up asap!

[rodeo bill]

Morten (of For Holding Up The Trousers fame) just sent me this photo, from Berlin:

 

I believe Steffan (in the picture) was given this belt by a member here  . It's the 'fork' buckle, and very few were made, so it's lovely to see one in the wild, especially worn in so beautifully:

[Coolguyzack]

There's some Tender stuff on sale at Unionmade.

 

http://unionmadegoods.com/brands/tender/

[rodeo bill]

speaking of belts, I've just received a new batch of belts, including the new 'Spiral' buckle style. Here's my own, after about 6 months:

 

 

 

 

This is a step onwards from the 'frame' buckle, which was the first time I tried fitting the tongue over the frame, rather than locking the it into the frame, but this one is full width and the spiral frame lies flat and single-thickness, rather than resting on itself at double thickness. The design comes from a split keyring, where the tongue fits on as the key.

 

One side effect of this is the end of the spiral pushes into the leather, so that over time you get a really pronounced groove along the top edge. Each buckle has a different effect on the leather belt, so I reckon I could tell which buckle someone's been wearing just from the wear on the belt!

 

 

Up on the Stores now with polished and rusted buckles, and arriving in stockists over the next few weeks. 

[Graeme]

Yeah, I got that belt for Steffen about a year ago. It's looking good with all the wear, and has certainly darkened up a lot since I last saw it in January.

[Graeme]

Steffen has a few photos of his belt at:

 

http://www.denimworldchampionship.com/forums/topic/sgt-pinback-ih-634-lb-loom-breakers-16-5oz-raw-indigoindigo-duck/page/5/#post-4644

 

He suffers from an acute addiction to Duck, and was very jealous of Morten's Barge Canvas jacket.

[Coolguyzack]

New tender belt! Took advantage of that Unionmade sale to get that belt I've been eyeing forever.

 

[Cucoo]

I'm still not sure if I like this "thrown together from scrap parts in a steampunk setting" aesthetic of Tender belts or not

[satchelbmoore]

Hey friends,

 

it's been a little while as a took a little break from the 'denim game' after being laid off from BlackBlue. 

 

As with the last few years, i'm still wearing tender most of the time and thought i'd throw up some photos of my 129 rinsed and point you to a blog post of a friend of mine's shoe company who did a feature on me and of course i'm wearing 100% tender in both shoots. 

 

here's that link: http://blog.lanona.co/project/satchel-b-moore/

 

wattle 353 shirt  woad pyjamas. tortoise flattened top Rx sunglasses

 

129 rinsed

 

129 rinsed

 

flattened black sunglasses with clear Rx lenses // wisconsin buds both of which definitely own some pretty sweet tender stuff. the guy to my left is bothrops1 on instagram some of you may follow him he has like a billion followers. 

 

129 rinsed. love them. love the twist. love the fades. love the fit. love fixing them all the time. love wearing them.

 

129 rinsed. i did some casaul darning on the left hip.

 

129 rinsed. amazing contrast.

Edited July 21, 2015 by satchelbmoore

[satchelbmoore]

129 rinsed. 

 

back pocket love

 

subtle fades.

 

knees keep ripping. i keep darning. i've enjoyed not matching the thread each time. Let me know if anyone wants some repair love at all. I'm fixing jeans under the name @scienceandkindness scope that instagram for some before/after shots of some off my repairs.

 

keep up the good work William! It was a pleasure to work with you. I hope we can connect professionally again in the future.

 

In the meantime i'll keep building my tender arsenal (go gunners) and posting when i can.

[Maynard Friedman]

Good to see you back again satchel, sorry that you were laid off from the shop but hopefully it will present you with new opportunities. Tenders are looking splendid by the way.

[jason995511]

Satchel, Damn man, what were they thinking. I hope it works out the best for you, you were always super cool and I look forward to seeing more awesome stuff from you.

[Segovia]

Bummed to hear about Blackblue, but I'm sure you'll land on your feet somewhere great. Are you still set up to do hemming with your scienceandkindess gig? If so I might need to get a bit more chopped off a pair of sammies!

 

Those 129's are wicked! I'm almost looking forward to some big blowouts just to send them your way!

[srudy]

Will definitely send you some business Satchel!