Tender Co. Denim

[Graeme]

He'll grow into them.

[rodeo bill]

a nice bit of photography and a write-up in the season's book from Nestrobe, a really lovely store in Tokyo that stocks Tender in their men's and women's stores. Well worth a visit if anyone's in town...

 

[Youthxattak]

New Tender collab posted up on http://forholdingupthetrousers.tumblr.com

Really neat to have no side seam. Are the pants and suspenders being sold separately or only as a pair?

[Mvk190]

For Holding Up The Trousers x Tender Co. jeans

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mvk190]

 

 

 

 

 

 

For Holding Up The Trousers x Tender Co. jeans:

- 16oz Japanese blue-line selvedge denim

- Cut and sewn in England

- 100% cotton thread

- No side seams

- Cinch back with solid cast brass rings

- No waistband

- Selvage fork piece in the crutch

- Riveted high back split

- Darted seat construction

- Oak bark tanned leather patch

- Front pocket bags made from 16oz denim

- Large square back pocket, lined with English selvedge calico

- Removable brass waist button.

- Dome copper rivets

- Ceramic suspender buttons (each pair has a different colour)

 

Suspenders:

- Heavy elastic navy webbing with green stripes

- Natural oak bark tanned leather on back piece

- Brown oak bark tanned leather button tabs

- Vintage military hardware

 

Limited and numbered, 8 pairs made. Comes in heavy cardboard boxes printed with For Holding Up The Trousers lino cut by Inga Vestergaard Sørensen.

 

www.forholdingupthetrousers.com

[Mvk190]

New Tender collab posted up on http://forholdingupthetrousers.tumblr.com

Really neat to have no side seam. Are the pants and suspenders being sold separately or only as a pair?

 You beat me to the post:) These are only sold as a pair, a special project William and I did together!

 

 

Edited May 16, 2013 by Mvk190

[Graeme]

The For Holding Up Trousers / Tender jeans look fantastic.

 

Unfortunately they've been short changed on the inseam, so won't work out for me after shrinkage!

[rodeo bill]

^^^looking good 

 

Graeme, these are intended to be worn uncuffed (as in the pics of Morten on his roof in CPH- the photos in my back garden Morten's pair are raw and I have stumpy legs). Morten's got pretty long legs and they look great on him I think.

 

I've just got in from a day rushing between factories and boxing Tshirts and I'm exhausted, but I'll take some proper photos tomorrow.

 

[Graeme]

I've got the opposite problem, with enormously long, gangly legs. I tend to look for a 34" to 35" inseam, about where the collaboration jeans are in their raw state.

 

I hope I'm not out of line posting this here, but I love the double D-ring belt that Morten does.

 

[Mvk190]

I've got the opposite problem, with enormously long, gangly legs. I tend to look for a 34" to 35" inseam, about where the collaboration jeans are in their raw state.

 

I hope I'm not out of line posting this here, but I love the double D-ring belt that Morten does.

 

 

 

Thanks for the kind words on both the jeans and belt! I really appreciate that!

[rodeo bill]

As promised, here are my jeans, which were the prototype, worn for about 3 months. They had a quick cold water dip from new, but they've not been washed or soaked since then. The leg pocket is a home-added iphone pocket, lined with an offcut of beaverteen. I've really enjoyed wearing these with my For Holiding Up The Trousers suspenders. My suspenders are an earlier iteration, from Morten's main line, not the special co-branded ones.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[rodeo bill]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mvk190]

A nice article just went up on Denimhunters

 

 

Collaboration Jean: For Holding Up The Trousers and Tender Co.

 

This jean is the creative peak of a close friendship between two very enthusiastic entrepreneurs, Morten and William, each with their own high quality niche brand. They’ve been friends since they met in London a few years ago. Morten was studying in the British capital but ended up quitting school to work for William. After Morten moved back to Copenhagen, and as his business making belts and suspenders started to grow, it seemed like a natural next step for the two friends to collaborate on a jean that could combine the things that they’re both most interested in. We asked Morten and William about the process and how they decided on the design on the jeans.

The blue-line selvage denim is shuttle woven in Japan from 25 times dipped synthetic indigo Japanese ring-spun unbleached Texas cotton. It’s woven at 16 oz. and is unsanforized and not skewed or singed. With the first wash it will shrink to a density of 17 oz. The jeans are cut and sewn in England with English-spun 100% cotton thread and riveted with Japanese-made Universal rivets. The button is solid brass, lost wax-cast in England. As with all Tender’s jeans, the hems are double folded and lock stitched. Suspender buttons and individually numbered and branded leather patch are produced by For Holding Up The Trousers in Copenhagen. The suspenders that come with each pair are hand made by Morten himself.

What inspired you in terms of the fit and the details for the jeans?

W: Making pants to be worn with suspenders is very different from making pants to be worn with a belt, or by themselves. A waistband is no longer necessary, as the jeans are hung from above, rather than sitting on the hips. Morten is very interested in clothing of the Old West, so there are some vintage jeans details like the riveted split back, and the seamed-in fly placket. It’s also nice to wear pants for suspenders slightly higher, on the body, and a little shorter at the cuff, although of course you can also let them slouch down, which gives you a lower waist and a more floppy cuff.

Front pockets are made of denim as well. The large square back pocket are lined with English selvage calico.

W: From Tender’s point of view, this was an opportunity to play around with my one-piece trews pattern, without a side seam. I’d never done these in denim before, and the selvage fabric we wanted to use is too narrow for the pattern. When I was working in tailoring we often had this problem working with Irish linens, which are woven half-width. We’d have to seam in a ‘fork-piece’ at the crotch (picture below), which would make up the extra space between the end of the fabric and the end of the pattern. A nice thing with these jeans is that in a small size the fork piece is quite narrow, and in a large size the fork piece has to be larger.

M: The inspiration comes from the same place as the suspenders did to begin with, miners of the old west. I wanted a pair of high waisted jeans made for suspenders, they shouldn’t be like reproductions jeans, but still have the old west feel made with the Tender Co. aesthetics. We combined the best of our two brands and I really think we ended up with a very special pair of jeans. 

What are you looking for when you search for jeans?

M: I’m always looking for origin, materials, story. Tight jeans don’t sit well with me and they have to be suitable for suspenders.

What do you love the most about denim?

M: The story behind it and the way it ages with wear.

How do you wear your (dry) jeans – any special routines? (wear, wash etc.)

M: I usually do an initial soak, hand dry and then wear damp. I always wanted to go the six months without washing as everybody talks about, but end up not caring too much and then hand wash them when I feel like it.

As there is only 8 pairs made, the jeans will only be sold via Morten’s website to begin with. They come in heavy cardboard boxes printed with For Holding Up The Trousers lino cut by Inga Vestergaard Sørensen (Morten’s mother).

 

[clawbytes]

Shorter inseam + suspenders + no side seams?

 

Shut up and take my money!

[rodeo bill]

thank you! I'm sure Morten will be happy to   

 

Fresh up today is another shop special, this time for Unionmade, as part of their Naturals collection:

 

Irish-spun and -woven natural unbleached linen canvas, cut into the type915 Guard's jacket, with special Tender & Unionmade cow horn buttons. More details here.

I rinsed the jackets at home- here are some photos of them drying, and packing them up to go off to SF:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ghost Cat]

Thought you guys would be interested:  everything on Hickoree's is currently 20% off with code longweekend through monday, including some sweet, succulent tender gear.  I have my eyes on that verdigris shirt...

 

Does anyone know if size 3 corresponds well to a size medium? 

[satchelbmoore]

at least in the t's and sweaters a 2 is a solid small. and 3 is a solid medium. haven't done anything with buttons.

[Youthxattak]

From my experience the button ups are oversized (and I believe I've read on here that previously as well). I sized down with my last tender button up from a 3 to a 2 and I still have some wiggle room. I would check your measurements for sure. I'm a pretty standard medium though and size 3 is my typically go to for tender.

[garden gnomes in space]

[rodeo bill]

^Lovely! Thanks for posting. Which buckle is that?

 

Sorry for the lack of updates recently- lots has been going on, of which more soon. In the meantime, anyone in London I thoroughly recommend a visit to the new Trunk LABS store, opening next week, and stocking some Tender accessories among other excellent things (a selection below). Trunk is a lovely shop on Chiltern St in Marylebone affiliated with Monocle magazine. Their new accessories store is just down the road and is a beautiful space, with some great products.

 

[garden gnomes in space]

this one.  http://www.unionmadegoods.com/tender_Wire_Buckle_Oak_Bark_Leather_Belt_in_Tan_1324.html

[rodeo bill]

^thanks! Very glad it's getting some good use 

 

As I mentioned, I have a lot going on at the moment, so apologies that I haven't been putting quite as much up as usual. I'm so happy to announce that last weekend my wife gave birth to a healthy and happy baby girl. We're delighted! 

 

 

She of course is the main focus of our life at the moment, but as far as the brand goes, from next season some Tender pieces will be stocked by the excellent Father Shop, the companion to the Not A Bad Dad blog. Both are excellent sites and well worth a browse, especially if you or anyone you're close to is in the family way. With father's day coming up soon, Father Shop has just put up these special print Ts:

 

It's the first outing for the new type362, with a deep folded hem and no rib at the bottom edge.

[clayton]

Congratulations William!

[Graeme]

Congratulations William!

Does that mean I'll have to buy up the Tender baby range for my nephews now?

[Youthxattak]

So happy for you two!!

[rodeo bill]

Thank you all so much! Being a dad's the best 

 

In the meantime, outside life goes on, and I've just received two new products for the shop, up today aren lovely heavy 3/4" cube lost wax-cast solid brass dice:

 

 

 

and a new Hands-On mechanical watch, with a Station Dial:

 

 

The dial is printed onto copper foil, and the layout is based on British Rail station clocks. The copper dial idea came from a watch of mine, made by Angelus in the 1950s. It's a lovely rich metallic colour, and works really nicely with the steel case and hands, I think.

[UkeNo]

Congratulations William :-)

[Aries]

Do you actually have a physical shop location Bill? I've ordered the key hook online and was looking at some of the shirts and tees, but I'd really like to get a feel for them in person before purchasing.

 

I'll be in London on Thursday if there's anywhere you can recommend.

[andrew_]

Congrats William.

 

@Aries - London stockists seem to be sparse right now, used to have Goodhood/Numbersix in East but they no longer do... Seems that Superdenim in York and Peggs&Sons in Brighton are the best UK stockists (although not much help at all if you're in London)

 

Talking of tees, I'm passing on my gorgeous Woad type 351 in size 3.

Sadly I've gotten a bit too into cooking recently and it no longer fits.

From S/S'11 I believe, I bought it from Numbersix. It's fantastic condition. More info in the auction which goes live today at 19:30 GMT right here

 

Also I just took some pictures of my unborn 129s.

Washed once, worn for about 7-8-ish months now, due for their 2nd wash after muddy Glastonbury festival at the end of this month...

 

 

More pics:

http://i.imgur.com/ERhodn8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/C4s4STV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xZUmNaQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lWKnW6z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QbBtuM4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nutUdOz.jpg

 

 

[rodeo bill]

^^ jeans looking great Andrew, thank you for posting! Please keep us up to date 

 

Do you actually have a physical shop location Bill? I've ordered the key hook online and was looking at some of the shirts and tees, but I'd really like to get a feel for them in person before purchasing.

Thank you very much for your purchase! I hope it's with you safely by now. I'm afraid the only place stocking Tender in London at the moment is Trunk LABS, but they only have accessories, and aren't open for a few more days.... Very sorry there's nowhere else at the moment- if there are specific garments you're interested in please let me know, and at least I may be able to send you some detailed photos of textures etc., or a better description. This is an unfortunate thing about running such a small brand in a global marketplace! As Andrew suggests, the best bet in this vicinity at the moment is Peggs & Son, in Brighton- if you're over that way I couldn't recommend them highly enough.