Tender Co. Denim

[Youthxattak]

Some closer pics of the fabric.

[bbcapone]

Thanks for the pics Youth!

Those are tasty pics but I'm still up in the air between those and the 132's with the driving pockets.

William; I just picked up your Tender x Hillside scarf, is this a chambray fabric? Also, can I expect it to fade much? My smurf hands are telling me yes.

[rodeo bill]

^^ thank you! and excellent. Those scarves are pretty hard to come by these days, I'm very glad you have one. The fabric's a plain-weave ecru cotton, which was dyed as a finished article. To me, a chambray is a plain weave that's yarn-dyed differently in the warp and weft (classically indigo warp/ecru weft, but it could also be 2 colours) before weaving, although I'm sure others would disagree. For all practical purposes yes it's the same weave as a chambray.

Yes it should fade nicely- post pics as it comes along!

[rodeo bill]

ps, here's what I'm doing today:

hand-stamping unborn jeans bags. The stamps are pretty big and I have to ink each one with a little ink pad for every print- I'm getting a blister on my thumb...

[rodeo bill]

a quick update on my tender & for Holding up the trousers elastic belt, worn pretty much daily for perhaps 6 months now:

the leather is morten's (vegetable tanned in sweden) which he uses for his mainline of suspenders, and it's quite different from the english oak bark leather in tender's main line belts. aside from being split down a bit thinner (which makes it much more appropriate for this style of belt), it's a bit tighter and smoother in the grain. I think it's ageing really beautifully- quite slow and subtle, but with a real warmth. I particularly like the marks from the leather keeper as seen from the back, in the second picture.

more info and pics on the trestle shop. we have new background photos today

[Youthxattak]

Ordered my tender belt with the rusted brass wire buckle.. Was sooo excited to get home yesterday and find my package. Opened it up.. Put it on... And it was too small. I'm at 30-31 waist.. Ordered a size 2. Emailed context to see about exchanging for a 3. Fingers crossed. The few moments I had it out I fell in love.

William, how did you get the brass to turn that beautiful shade?

[rodeo bill]

^^I'm really pleased you like it! Sorry the size isn't right. The measurement is 1" up from waist size to the centre hole (eg a size 2 should measure 31" from the buckle to the centre hole), however because the leather's so thick it can wear a bit smaller. It's also worth remembering that it's quicker to stretch out denim than leather! I hope Context are able to help you out.

The patina on the brass is just the rust which would occur naturally. I speed it up a bit (trade secret I'm afraid) but they still have to sit in a bucket in my back garden for a few weeks.

I rusted some buttons for keyrings, and tried dyeing the little bag for the keyring in the rust water that collected. It's pretty subtle, but I like how it collected around the copper rivets:

keyrings are here

[Youthxattak]

Yeah Context has the 3 on hold for me which was really great of them. Context always goes beyond with the customer service.

Heres a picture of my watch strap in use. Not a fancy watch at all. Simple. And the bracelet is a Giles and Brother railroad spike cuff.

Any chance you'll do a attachment for your keys to a belt or belt loop in the future?

Edited January 8, 2013 by Youthxattak

[rodeo bill]

I'm delighted Context are able to sort you out! They're an excellent store. lovely watch photo - thank you . No plans for a key hook at the moment, but it could be nice... let's see!

Edited January 8, 2013 by rodeo bill

[Graeme]

Do the Tender belts match the trousers for sizing, barring the odd accident such as suffered by Youthxattak? Or should I be looking at sizing up one?

I'm just trying to figure out which to go for too. There's a Logwood one at Redwing Amsterdam, but I need to confirm if it's my size; the For Holding Up The Trousers collaboration belt; a red enameled S belt at Superdenim; and the brown leather keeper belt at the Trestle Shop.

William, please can you stop making so many variants, so I don't suffer from analysis paralysis...

Speaking of the Trestle Shop, how do the sizes on the flowerpot twill cap correspond to head circumferences? My noggin is 61 cm (UK hat size 7 1/2) around. I've got a feeling that corresponds to a size 4, but confirmation would be appreciated. Thanks.

[rodeo bill]

^thanks for asking. If you have any more specific questions please feel free to email me. The belts are all made as waist size +1" to the middle hole, so a size 3 belt is 33" to the middle hole. However as I mentioned above, the thick leather can mean they feel a bit smaller. If Tender jeans fit perfectly without any stretching out, then you could take the same size belt, but if you like to stretch them out a bit then I'd suggest a size up for the belt, as it won't stretch as much. Also, depending on the buckle style, the leather can be more or less lifted up through the buckle. The more the belt needs to bend through the buckle, the more length is going to be taken up going through it, so the shorter the rest of the belt. I hope that makes sense!

The for holding up the trousers elastic belt is cut to the same measurements, but as it's elastic you can afford to err on the tighter. The logwood belts on the other hand were soaked in hot dye, which causes them to shrink a little, so I'd suggest you size up with them. You could check for specific size measurements with the guys in Amsterdam.

So in short, I'd say true to size for elastic, size one up for logwood, and possibly size one up for the other leather belts. Sorry it gets a bit confusing!

For hats, size 3 measures 61cm and size 4 measures 63cm internally around the band.

[rodeo bill]

A very kind article and interview just went up on the excellent stylesight denim blog. the blog's excellent in general, and they put up some very interesting stuff- worth a look.

Interview with Owner and Founder of Tender Co. William Kroll

January 9, 2013 | ARTISANAL DENIM, BRITISH DENIM, EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW, TENDER CO., TRESTLE SHOP, WILLIAM KROLL

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As an independent British denim label, William Kroll’s brainchild Tender Co. has always been an inspirational label that we (Stylesight Denim team) have looked at with admiration. Rarely do you meet someone with such passion, ingenuity, and respect for the heritage of the humble jean. So it was our pleasure to get the chance to sit down with the man behind the brand and learn about his passion for denim, inspirations, and future plans for the business.

Since its inception in 2009, British denim specialist Tender Co. has been steadily gaining a name for itself in the ever growing heritage segment of the denim market. Over the past three years, owner and founder William Kroll has kept the growth of his beloved brand slow and considered, reflecting the integrity and work ethic that he continues to pour into every Tender product. Each season, William faithfully weaves his narrative of antique workwear and machinery, especially from the Great British Steam Age (the core roots of the brand), into a comprehensive assortment of handcrafted denim and woven goods. An incredible amount of development work is put into each product, with a true appreciation and hands-on approach to every aspect of the process.

One of the processes Tender is widely recognised for is its use of natural garment dyes to create its rich and varied palettes. This is an unbelievably painstaking and lengthy process, however the reward is a richness, depth, and variety of color which simply cannot be achieved in any other way. Many Tender fans who readSuperfuture will be familiar with William’s profile picture where his hands are blue from woad.

While the brand has now solidified a cult status throughout the denim community, William’s sometimes silent and modest approach may have left some followers unaware of the recent progressions of the brand. Last month saw the relaunch of Tender’s new website fascia and launch of his new webstore, Trestle Shop.

The websites new homepage see’s an evolution to an almost Tumblr-like layout, that gives a greater focus on content. Readers are now treated to broader scope of the range that the brand now covers as well as a personal window into William’s design process. According to William, “The plan is that it’ll evolve with Tender itself, but also keep track of what has happened so far.†It also links all the new products in the Trestle Shop and shows previous seasons’ collection photos. A nice touch for any Londoner is the navigation system that references the signage from Earls Court tube station.

The Trestle Shop (taking its name from railway trestle bridges of the 19th-century) is William’s project, along with wife Deborah, that they operate from their home in London. Here you can find pieces made parallel to the core Tender collection including experimental and unconventional items, which come about during the development of the main line.

With all of what we had read of the Tender brand and the recent progressions, we decided to get in touch with the man behind it all to discuss his domestic production approach, the concept behind the webstore, and his new found passion for pottery.

How did your passion for workwear and denim begin?

I got interested in workwear from a construction rather than a design point of view. I was very interested in furniture and making things with wood and metal when I was at school. When I was 14 I thought I’d have a go at making something to wear as well. Trousers seemed easier than a jacket, and the only fabric I could find which I liked was some canvas upholstery fabric. My mom very patiently showed me how to use her sewing machine, I made up some sort of pattern by drawing around a pair of black Levi’s I had, and what came out was something approaching a pair of jeans. Nobody had shown me how to make a fly, so it had openings and tabs at the sides. Pockets were an innovation still to come and the top was hemmed rather than having a waistband. I certainly didn’t think about it at the time, but designing from limited capabilities and based on requirements is very much how jeans have evolved to where they are today. Whenever I put together a new garment or product for Tender I think through how it will be made and how it will be used. The design ends up as the midpoint between the people who make it and the people who use it.

You have a very traditional and artisanal approach to denim craftsmanship and design. What has been your driving inspiration behind this?

One of the biggest pleasures in what I do is getting to learn from the people who make my jeans and other products. Before I finished college I took a year out to be the apprentice of a bespoke tailor and cutter. John taught me a huge amount and I was extremely lucky to learn from him. He was quite unusual because while he was one of the best cutters in the business, he was also a working coat maker; most cutters pass their work onto tailors to make up. He had also worked in mass production in the past, so he had respect for the skills and inventiveness involved in factory methods. He taught me not to be afraid to mix traditional and modern ideas, bespoke and mass market.

You are known for your keen eye for detail when producing your jeans. Can you tell us what signature details go into a Tender pant?

I like to think that every detail in a pair of my jeans is thought through and considered. Even if something’s done the same way as other garments, it has been looked at carefully and weighed up. For instance, the inseam on a pair of jeans is usually folded over towards the front and top-stitched down. This leaves a lip pointing towards the back on the outside of the garment, running up the inside of the leg. I find that this seam is often one of the first to break, particularly up at the crotch where it gets a lot of wear, especially if the wearer rides a bike. On Tender jeans the inlay is flipped towards the back on the inside so that the lip of the seam from the outside points forwards. When you sit back onto a saddle or a chair you’re moving with the direction of the seam, rather than against it. This means that there is less friction against it and it’s less likely to break.

The denim market has become rather saturated with “heritage inspired†workwear brands as of late. How do you ensure a point of difference through Tender?

There’s a huge amount of very good stuff out there. When I started doing Tender in the summer of 2009 I had to think very carefully about what I could bring to the table. I think it’s very important to be doing something that you believe is different and special. Also, just practically, as a one person business (which Tender still is), I have no marketing budget so there has to be something going on in every product, which is genuinely interesting and different from the next brand. I’ve tried to achieve this by aiming to tick all the boxes at every level. This might sound a bit arrogant, but when you’re offering something to the public I think you have to give them something really interesting. So Tender has to hold up against the best in terms of its research, design, provenance, construction, presentation, service — everything! There can be just as many historical construction and design allusions in a button as in the shape and details of the jacket it is attached to. I think a good garment or product has to be satisfying at any level you choose, while also seeming like it hasn’t been designed at all. It’s a difficult brief to give yourself!

You continually weave references of British work clothing (especially from the Great British Steam Age) into your garments. What makes British workwear inspire you above American design?

One of the things I love about jeans and workwear-type produced garments is that along with the construction and utilitarian design there can also be some nuances that give the garments personality and warmth. When I started up Tender I was working out how to bring a personality to the brand. I’m British and have spent time looking at British clothes so it made sense to bring that through into my new brand. I love American clothing too and I have huge respect for the companies that reinterpret it well – in the U.S., Japan, and elsewhere – but it didn’t feel like that was the thing for me to do.

Why is the “made in england†mantra so core to the Tender brand?

It’s not necessarily a dogmatic or even an idealistic thing; to start, it was a matter of practicality. I’d spent some time in Japan and had looked into making things there, in a small way. I have fantastic friends in Japan who make great stuff, but the cost of sending things around the world and visiting often enough to maintain a good relationship meant that it wouldn’t have made sense as a business, nevermind any environmental or political concerns. When I started looking around in England I started to build up relationships with some wonderful people who are now making Tender what it is becoming. One of the things I’ve always liked about menswear, and jeans in particular, is the restrictions it gives you as a designer. Some people thrive by having no limits on their design; personally I really like having a framework of what’s acceptable to work around and to push against. Deciding to make everything in England has meant that I’ve had to adapt my designs to the people I meet and how they work. This in turn has affected the details in products and the feel of the brand. I’m very proud to be involved , in a very small way, in manufacturing in the U.K., and it’s lovely to be able to nip over to a factory for the afternoon.

The American market has seen a recent return to domestic manufacturing. Do you feel this will impact the British market and influence brands to reconsider their manufacturing bases (i.e. Huit denim)?

I don’t know that it’s enough for a brand to distinguish itself just on its country of origin. There are fantastic things made in China and India and not so great things made in the U.S., Japan, Italy, and Britain. There’s certainly a trend towards making more things here at a smaller, higher level, which is wonderful and hopefully it’ll lead to some lasting good for the economy at a larger scale. While I’m extremely proud to be making things in Britain, I try to ensure that there are other, broader stories to tell in every product.

The photos on your website show your hands on approach to production and dying. Are you fully involved throughout the entire process?

As I said, one of the best things of the last few years has been getting to spend time with people who are really expert at what they do, and I’ve really enjoyed learning from them. I think it’s really important that I understand everything about all the processes that go into the products, so I like to be as hands-on as possible. I make the patterns and sew all the prototypes myself, and work on the other techniques involved at the development of something new. At the other end of production, I write the type number on every washing tab, and put on the buttons and fold and pack every pair of jeans myself, so there’s a real personal element with every garment.

You have experimented with Woad and Veggie dyes in previous collections. Are there any new dye stuff you have worked with recently?

Natural dyes are really interesting – in their history, the colors they produce, and the way they fade and deteriorate with time. In F/W 12, there’s a really nice mushroom-y brown from wattle bark, and coming up in the next production there have been some experiments with rusts, which are quite exciting.

You spent some time in Okayama with an indigo dye master. How did the Japanese approach to craftsmanship and work ethic impact you and your approach to design?

I’ve been lucky enough to spend quite a bit of time in Japan and I’ve met some brilliant people there. It has become a bit of a cliché, but there is a real culture of respect and appreciation of time spent developing a craft. My friends in Japan and the people there I’ve been lucky enough to meet and learn from have shown me some amazing techniques, products, and materials. I’m wary of generalizing too much about a vast and varied culture, which has as many good and bad points as any other, but more than anything, there’s a feeling of understanding why it’s worth making an effort, even if you could get away with less. It’s an attitude that is also present in the people in England who now make Tender’s products, and those around the world who sell and own them.

You have recently launched the Trestle Shop. Can you tell us the concept behind this?

My wife Deborah and I started up the Trestle Shop in the Summer, and it’s been a really nice project to do. First off, it was an exercise to design a web shop, which was very interesting in itself and not something I’d ever worked on before, but also a way to put out products which might not have fit in with the main clothing line. During the research process for the main line, I’ve often come across interesting processes or ideas which don’t work in clothing but seem to fit in to the spirit of Tender.

Another nice thing about the Trestle Shop is that it allows things to turn around very quickly, without the long selling and making period for a full production to go to shops. For instance, I was experimenting with English-made cotton bias binding to see how tight a curve I could make with it, and it seemed like it would make a good scarf edge. I made up some scarves in Welsh-woven woollen flannel from F/W 12 shirts and they were up at the shop the same evening.

Finally, it’s been really nice interacting directly with the people who end up owning and using Tender products. I’m very lucky to have been working with fantastic stockists all over the world from the beginning (there’s a list here), and it’s a pleasure to see how they present things. But it’s also really nice to be able to photograph, describe, display, pack, and deliver things directly. Everything in the shop is dispatched from our home, and we pack and send everything out ourselves, so it really is a very personal service, which is nice to be able to offer.

You’ve also launched a new line of household goods and unconventional items. How did this come about?

I’ve become really interested in ceramics (like this hand-thrown and hand-inscribed sgraffito bowl) and glass (like these mouth-blown tumblers). I love how direct the interaction is between the maker and the product; you see the marks of the potters fingers around the sides of a bowl or mug, and the punty mark on the base of a piece of glass where it’s been broken off the iron.

Finally, whats your favourite denim piece from the F/W 12 collection and why?

There’s a jacket in the current production that is made on the type 915 “guard’s jacket†pattern, cut sideways, across the grain of the denim, with the selvage running along the bottom edge. This isn’t just a visual detail; it means there’s no need to hem the fabric, which removes the lip which could otherwise catch on other garments, as well as using slightly less fabric, by allowing the panels to be cut right up to the edge of the cloth (this is the reason that selvage appears on jeans out seams). Finally, it’s a reference to 18th-century tailoring, when the heavy box cloths and doeskins were so tightly woven that they could be cut and used raw-edged. This carried on into the heavier overcoats worn by British railway workers, even into the 1960s. The facings on the jacket, cut from English-woven ecru calico, also refer to the contrasting revers of classical tailoring. The pockets are lined with the same calico, bias-cut to stretch over their contents. The waist is supported to flax strapping, also woven in England, and the buttons are lost wax cast from solid brass. I’ve been wearing mine for a few months now and really enjoying it.

If you would like to find out more about Tender Co. head over to the Made by Tender website. Alternatively take a browse around the newly launched Trestle Shop to see what new products the brand has to offer.

[Graeme]

So in short, I'd say true to size for elastic, size one up for logwood, and possibly size one up for the other leather belts. Sorry it gets a bit confusing!

Thanks!

I'll see what Red Wing Amsterdam say, but suspect that their belt is a size smaller than I'd want.

[Youthxattak]

Thanks!

I'll see what Red Wing Amsterdam say, but suspect that their belt is a size smaller than I'd want.

I believe the buckle is different but they have a full size run of the logwood belts. I love the color and the wear pictures always look good.

http://www.huzza.net/gifts/for-him/logwood-belt-with-brass-buckle.html

[rodeo bill]

a little update on my woad dyed 132s, which just had a wash. these are probably at about a year and a half now I think:

in the picture above you can see (a bit) the difference that the woad makes. The side pocket was tacked on by me after they'd been dyed, so is the same denim, but without the woad over the top of it. Having said that, these photos are a bit more contrasty and a bit less rich than the fabric in real life...

[rodeo bill]

another very nice write-up, and another excellent blog to check out. this is by andy burns, who writes for men's file as well as doing his own site and design consultancy:

FRIDAY, 11 JANUARY 2013

Tender's Engine-An interview with William Kroll founder and creator of British Brand "Tender"

Tender -An article I wrote for Mens File Magazine during the Summer giving a rare insight into the Design ethics and creative inspiration of William Kroll.

Tender’s Engine

By the time I leave William Kroll’s house, founder and creator of the British Brand Tender, following a 2 hour interview, I’m exhausted due to the overload of creative inspiration and thought that goes behind every single product that he touches .All designed and produced in the UK.

The Brand name Tender has many connotations, sounding quite Folk and Craft, it is actually taken from the old Victorian Steam trains powerhouse where the Coal and water were carried for the engine. The best of British industrial engineering that influenced, pioneered and fuelled the industrial revolution in many ways. So this is an excellent starting point for the Brand.

Whilst Denim is key in the brands origins the Indigo selvedge ,17oz Japanese Denim made in the UK now comes as a standard to a humble talent such as William Kroll,his expertise and Jeans credentials are proven. Initially working at Evisu Jeans he visited Japan regularly in order to be taught the Indigo dying process in Okayama in the South.

What inspired me first when discovering the Brand for the first time on www.hickorees.com was the back to basics approach to everything about the brand. A creative simplicity,. that takes inspiration from the original thought process that went in to historical garments and their function. It is these ideas that are then re used to create a modern ,up to date product.

One of the main brand ideals is that “the product is the sum of all that has gone into it â€Products are half way points, the new owner will look after it for its lifetime and add its own detail. In the same way that an industrial engineer makes the original component ,it actually gains most of its character and appeal during its working life. William lives by this belief.

So whilst Tender the brand has an aesthetic work wear theme it is not a reproduction of something that has come before .It does embrace the “perfection of imperfection†as one of its running themes.

His design influence has a very British point of view rather than US or Heritage.

Everything William was wearing during the interview and using in his kitchen(where we were chatting) is Tender product.

The shirt he was wearing is a woven in the Uk, ticking stripe that has details on it that have their origins in a 1920’s British Railway Guard Coat. The Cuff is constructed in a peasants smock way laying on the cuff panel for comfort. The Buttons are rubber Rugby shirt buttons that have quick release properties rather than using traditional American workwear poppers that allowed the quick release when worn during rodeos.

His Jeans are Vegetable dyed in Wattle –a brown natural dye which gives a tint to the selvedge and the weft whilst making the Garment face quite blackened and saturated.

The details on the jean have straight cut slope front pockets that give and ease with wear and the trademark “Snob†Pocket is placed on the inner waist band and protrudes above the waist-see photo. This detail was derived from 17^thCentury Velvet britches and was used as a watch pocket positioned originally just below the chest.

The buttons on his jeans are made individually using a lost wax process where each mould is created individually and can only be used once. This same process is used on his belt buckle which again William has designed specifically for enhanced functionality.

His Glasses are 50’s thick rimmed and made by Tender from Cotton Pulp which is a hand finished acetate. This material came after Bakelite and before plastic but the properties are that they are natural and hypo allergenic On the arms there are 2 holes for the leather thong that stop the glasses falling of whilst working.

All leather that he is wearing-including the Work boots, belt, started off raw and has been lovingly aged using mutton Fat-which is also branded Tender. Even the timepiece on his wrist was designed with a trademark face and lost wax moulded fastener.

I ask William about his natural colour work ,something that had inspired me when reading about the brand for the first time. He was garment dying Denim and other products using natural dyes grown on Uk farms such as Woad (Royal Blue),Weld (yellow)and Logwood –(black /purple) originally used for Blackcloth and was sourced along with Gold traditionally in South American by Samuel Pepys!!!

He is using Acacia Wattle quite extensively for the latest range which gives a nice Brown tint on denim and jersey but he also shows me his latest knitwear range extension which of course uses the colours of the breed of sheep to keep the natural shades which look very wholesome. The Welsh Black and Cheviot combination were particularly appealing together.

The Tender range has grown extensively since 2009 where there was just a jean ,jacket, belt and tee. Today the range has developed to some 100 plus style covering all aspects of the lifestyle.

I am lucky enough to gain a preview some of the S13 ranges that have been left behind from the looming selling trip to New York.

A key piece are some Scottish Trews reference Canvas trousers. These have no side seam and the canvas is bias cut for greater ease and comfort during wear ,but fit perfectly into the Work wear ideals of the brand. The fabric is a heavy Canvas produced in the Uk for a Conveyor belt Company which certainly gives the Duck Canvas Sail cloth a run for its money. The idea is so strong that the concept has even been developed into boxer shorts though the fabric is made much lighter!!

Something William promotes as a bit of light hearted visual pace for the brand is seasonal collaborations with Print/Graphic designers that mirror the Brand unique selling points and ideals.

For Spring Summer 12 William worked with Chris Brown ,an old tutor whom he admired from his college days at Central St Martins.

Coming out for Autumn 12, he reincarnated and remoulded graphic images created by his Great Aunt. Natasha Kroll was the creative director at the famous Simpsons of Piccadilly as well as an astute Film Art Director, winning Baftas honouring her work. So the creativity is clearly genetic but the images seen on Bandannas for AW12 work as a family brand extension perfectly.

Along with every garment or product delivered by Tender or the recently launched Trestle lifestyle web site, you receive a personal letter from William and a hand signed and numbered garment. This literally introduces and hands over the adoption of that loved product to the new custodian, so that it can be cherished for what it is for the next chapter in its lifecycle..

I want to become part of this Lifestyle that William and Deborah are organically creating and living because it is new, original, refreshingly simple and above all it works. The Tender Brand holds a hard earned position amongst its peers in the global premium niche brand market, whilst retaining something unique amongst its peers.

If you want to know more about the tender brand Contact- [email protected] or check out the web siteshttp://www.madebytender.com/ http://www.trestleshop.com/

Photos-Flora Maclean

Blog- andyburnsdesign.com email- [email protected]

[satchelbmoore]

blew out my right knee this week. thought i'd get around to posting a couple shots i took in good light last week.

the 129s are breaking in beautifully but they will get a break until i get around to mending them in a few places. it's almost time for their first wash.

the socks and woad henley are amazing and the watch strap is getting darker seemingly by the day.

[Youthxattak]

So I got the my return in from Context for the right size belt. I could not be happier. Heres a couple pictures of the new belt.

And here's one of my Tender leather so far. (all I really want is a tender satchel.. If anyone has one.. Just saying..)

[big truck]

Love the shade of those jeans.

[Mvk190]

Did a little fun project with William..

For Holding Up The Trousers X Tender Co. T-Shirt

- T-Shirt made in England by Tender Co.

- Silkscreened in Copenhagen with linocut illustration by Inga Vestergaard Sørensen

- Loopwheeled interlock jersey, knitted in England

- Slim fit based vintage sportswear and underwear

- 100% cotton ribbing

- Un-dyed, natural cotton jersey

- Not pre-shrunk (will shrink to size after wash)

- One-piece cutting, no shoulder seam for improved fit

- Flatlocked seam construction

- Gathered cuff with deep rib

- Curved jersey-bound hems

- Limited to 8 T-Shirts

- Comes in handprinted heavy cardboard boxes made in Denmark.

- Includes card with linocut print.

www.forholdingupthetrousers.com

And some pictures of my mother printing the linocut onto the boxes..

Quality control

Edited January 21, 2013 by Mvk190

[lance]

+ rep for Mom

[bbcapone]

+2 rep for mom wearing overalls!

Youth-great collection, you are making me jealous and Bill blush. And did you say satchel???!!?! Pictures please!

[Youthxattak]

+2 rep for mom wearing overalls!

Youth-great collection, you are making me jealous and Bill blush. And did you say satchel???!!?! Pictures please!

Thank you. I was hoping I haven't been posting too many pics. But I've figured I wasn't the only one who likes to see what other people are breaking in. I only have a handful more Tender items so I'll try and spread out the rest of my photos.

And William was actually able to help me track down one of the last satchels! It might take me a minute to save but as soon as I get it I'll post some photos for everybody!

[Aries]

Never too many pics, post 'em up!

[rodeo bill]

^2nded! Thanks so much for posting photos of your things- it's lovely to see how they turn out.

[rodeo bill]

I met up with the excellent henry wong, next-level denim afficianado and lovely chap, yesterday. He was wearing his Tender & the hill-side 129s, which are looking really nice, with a longsleeved woad henley:

here are some details of the wear developing:

[rodeo bill]

henry writes loom chatter, and has put up a great review today, along with preview snapshots of a couple of things that'll be appearing in the coming months:

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23, 2013

Tender Update

We check in with Tender Co. Denim in NYC. Founder William Kroll is in town to show Tender's Fall line and we took the opportunity to catch up and geek out.

My first <a href="http://denimnews.blogspot.com/2010/01/introducing-tender-co.html" style="color: rgb(85, 136, 170); text-decoration: none; ">encounter with William was back in 2010 when he launched Tender Co. Denim centered around an unsanforized selvage denim jeans dip-dyed in plant indigo. To date it is still one of the most exciting and unique products available in men's denim. For the new season Tender continues to showcase William's love of natural, historically-relevant dyes.

He walked us through the Tender Type 132D jean, which is an update to the Type 132 jeans introduced with the first season. The "D" can be said to be said to represent modifications made to enable driving (or tractor operating) more comfortable as the back pockets have been moved lower and closer to the side seam. This change allows easier access to wallet and tools stored in the pocket while minimizing stress caused by sitting on objects in your back pocket.

William shows us the pair of Type 132 jeans he has been wearing for about a year and a half. He has attached the side pocket to it, testing its functionality and form before officiallly implementing it into the Type 132D. The denim fades beautifully and you will notice the new pocket is darker than the rest of the jean because it was added after the jeans have already been worn for some time.

On the final Type 132D the seat back pockets have been removed and the size and position of the new pockets fine-tuned. It is shown here in unwashed form without overdye.

Said pockets are calico lined with the same soft and durable fabric that lines the belt loops.

Riveted for lasting wear.

Selvage side seam. Double cuffed in William's preferred style.

Here are the 132D unwashed/undyed next to William's modified 132 natural indigo dip-dyed.

[rodeo bill]

(continued)

Other details include denim pocket bags with the selvage line at the bottom seam. When you reach into the front pockets you will touch the selvage.

This picture shows the selvage when the pocket bag has been pulled out, on a different pair of Tender jeans.

Other details include riveted snob's thumb pocket (not coin pocket) and removable brass button.

William is an adventurous product developer full of exciting ideas. Some other fun things he shared with us include a hefty, gorgeous brass whistle. Here it is shown alongside my brass Falling Whistles (with my own titanium ball chain and indigo yarn dyed braid). The Tender whistle feels significantly more solid and weighty and exhudes workmanship.

13 inch MacBook case made with selvage denim lined with moleskin padding.

We look forward to many more great things from William. Stay tuned to the Tender website and the discussion forum on Superfuture dedicated to it.

[bbcapone]

Will- English bridle logwood dyed macbook covers and passport holders please.

Go all Jean-Luc Pecard on us and "Make it so"

[Youthxattak]

Whistle..? Sign me up now please.

I've been waiting to see what to expect from Tender 2013. My itch has been temporarily scratched.