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scotty2

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Yeah man it would be sweet to have more people posting here again. I just copped some 18oz Black Marias in the Charles Atlas fit. My first time with denim from Collect Mills. After I'm done with my black denim from Tellason I'm gonna live in those for a good while.

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Looks like Christian and co has some new midweight Greaser and Charles Atlas jeans available for pre order! Nice to see they worked out something with Nihon Menpu, and also interesting to see some fabric coming from China. Never heard of Xinjiang. @Left Field Maybe Christian or Jonny have some more info on the characteristics?

From first glance without a size chart, they look to have less taper than normal, but maybe that's from the angle the photos were taken?

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20 minutes ago, Campagnolo said:

Looks like Christian and co has some new midweight Greaser and Charles Atlas jeans available for pre order! Nice to see they worked out something with Nihon Menpu, and also interesting to see some fabric coming from China. Never heard of Xinjiang. @Left Field Maybe Christian or Jonny have some more info on the characteristics?

From first glance without a size chart, they look to have less taper than normal, but maybe that's from the angle the photos were taken?

Xinxiang to my knowledge is a region rather than a mill. I'm not too familiar with any specific mills out of China but the Xinxiang cotton has a really great reputation and is known for being of a comparable staple to Zimbabwe, or longer. Red Cloud uses cotton from this region but I've never actually handled that. I'm super excited to find out more about these fabrics, I'm pretty sure this is the first time an American or Japanese brand has used Xinxiang cotton fabrics, at least to my knowledge. I haven't kept up with the industry happenings over the past few years. 

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52 minutes ago, altoclefchris said:

Xinxiang to my knowledge is a region rather than a mill. I'm not too familiar with any specific mills out of China but the Xinxiang cotton has a really great reputation and is known for being of a comparable staple to Zimbabwe, or longer. Red Cloud uses cotton from this region but I've never actually handled that. I'm super excited to find out more about these fabrics, I'm pretty sure this is the first time an American or Japanese brand has used Xinxiang cotton fabrics, at least to my knowledge. I haven't kept up with the industry happenings over the past few years. 

Looks like they're saying the fabric from Xinxiang is better than most Japanese fabrics used on their IG, which is cool considering they're significantly cheaper than other offerings. Interesting to find out more info about it!

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Love the new offerings! 

Now just need some fit/stretch info 

my 18oz collect is a tad short on the rise and a tad large on the thigh v the cone pair in a size down.  According to the charts and I prefer the latter 

so would love to know if one should pre order TTS or a size down ala cone stretch. And or if they measure different then then aforesaid rEd line 18oz

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Just placed a pre-order for the 15 oz Xinjiang cotton Charles Atlas jeans :)

I have two different Xinjiang denims in my collection at the moment, and they are some of the nicest fabrics I've come across.

Edited by mikecch
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5 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Received my charcoal 9oz twill chinos today and they're a great fit. Colour looks as much blue as charcoal grey to me but I don't mind!

I thought the same as well when I got mine! Almost to the point where I thought they may have sent me the wrong pair, but under certain lighting I can see the similarities with the ones shown on their site. Maybe the more you wear it the more the color will start to match?

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Anyone familiar with how the Xinxiang denim age (in general)? Says that it's a softer cotton which allows the indigo to penetrate deeper. Does that indicate they'll be more stubborn to fade or just have a wider variation of blue? Also curious about how the Nihon Menpu will age. 

Love the Charles Atlas fit btw. My 18oz Black Maria are my favorite jeans I've ever owned. 4 solid months in and getting better every day

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It's nice to see LF getting some attention for some new fabrics. I just wish they could sort out some of their quality control issues on the sewing end of things. Too much variation on the measurements for Miners and Greasers in new fabric runs has kept me from purchasing in quite a while. The Bedford cords turned out to be a weird Miner/Kerouac hybrid, while almost everything has come in varying degrees above or below the tagged waist without bing scaled up or down through the leg accordingly. That said, my 3 year old Black Marias are still among my favorite article of clothing ever.

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Looks like we got size 32 measurements for the XinJiang and Nihon Menpu in the Charles Atlas fits online. The thigh measurements are fair bit smaller than normal (12.25-375, as opposed to 12.625/75), which makes me kind of sad.

I wonder how Left Field determines the sizing for their releases...

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4 hours ago, Zonie51 said:

Anyone familiar with how the Xinxiang denim age (in general)? Says that it's a softer cotton which allows the indigo to penetrate deeper. Does that indicate they'll be more stubborn to fade or just have a wider variation of blue? Also curious about how the Nihon Menpu will age. 

Love the Charles Atlas fit btw. My 18oz Black Maria are my favorite jeans I've ever owned. 4 solid months in and getting better every day

That's a great question. If anything I would think there would be a wider hue of blues.

Edited by Campagnolo
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My Black Maria contest pair is still kicking and still one of my favorite articles of clothing. I took some really quick pictures right after a wash a few days back and am just getting around to posting them.

The crotch has been repaired a total of four times now? Biking has been really hard on it and its starting to become really difficult to keep up with repairs. The back pocket where I keep my wallet finally blew out but I did a little sashiko repair job on it that I like a lot.

I think I might bite the bullet in a bit here and buy another pair while I send these off to IndigoProof, but I've been wearing a pair of Flat Heads and really enjoying them so I might hold off a bit longer.

In other news I picked up one of Left Fields work shirts in the neppy Indigo x Indigo denim they did a few months ago. Its really, really beautiful. Probably the nicest piece of shirting I've ever handled. 

 

BM Front.jpg

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Edited by BrennenCooke
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  • 2 weeks later...

Regarding the Xinjian cotton, it feels really nice, not scratchy in the 16.5 oz slub and has a slightly damp feel to it vs dry like many JP, which I like. The 16.5 oz has a lot of texture and a good midrange slub compared to the Collect 18 oz. The Xinjiang cotton comes from a western region of China that used to be considered wasteland.  After government development it was turned into a thriving cotton growing region. This cotton is extra long staple similar to Zimbabwe and is generally grown in countries that have a cheap labor force since it has to be picked by hand to maintain the length. It's known for it's softness, durability, strength, luster and deep penetration dying. We don't have any experience with how it fades yet but it will be here next week and looking to break in a pair myself. I think this is as good as Japanese denim if not better then some and at this price point you can't beat it. We were looking for a entry level price point denim for those on a stricter budget and can't think of a better fit.  Even if you're not on a strict budget I would recommend. We will be looking for more specialty denim from Japan and maintain the basic Cone as an all American option.  Regarding fit, it's really tricky with the chino now that we are washing everything. I have made unique patterns for the 9 oz selvedge twill and duck fabrics coming thru. Cotton in general is a very hard fabric to control it varies so much from lot to lot color to color of the same fabric alone it's never going to be exactly the same especially when they are washed and dried. Regarding the denim they are all cut on the same markers and minimal plies. Each denim reacts slightly different after being cut based on the weight,tension and cotton. Some stretch, some contract and run a little small. Whenever it runs big or small in the waist we note it on the style. We did adjust the miner to make the leg opening a little tighter closer to the Charles Atlas on the upcoming run since it has been so well received. It won't be as tapered as the Charles Atlas for those that still prefer a wider leg opening.  Work shirts have arrived, production looks amazing and JP tartans are not to be missed. Fabric is beautiful! best, Christian

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My first pair of black denim in a while, Black Maria 18oz in the Charles Atlas fit. Bought in late October last year and worn pretty frequently since. 

I'm not a lifter but found that this fit and the waist-to-thigh ratio works well for women too. 30" waist, 12" thigh, 8" knee and 7" leg opening. I had them hemmed to a 30" inseam, I think, which is now 29" and stops at the upper ankle, the look I prefer on a cut like this. 

I kind of like the heavy denim on these, especially in winter, but they tend to crease easily in the washer (two times so far) and the inner thigh seam will probably need a little repair soon because of added frictionIMG_5247.JPG

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Colour is most true in the last pic.  

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Left Field chinos https://imgur.com/gallery/W7olc

Here are my well worn forest chinos. These are by far my favorite pair of pants ive owned.Giving them a wash now and they need a crotch repair. I hope LF will do something this heavy again in a chino.

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  • 2 weeks later...

my left field muleskinner. 2 years of ownership, honestly not sure how much actual wear. Probably 4-5 washes altogether. Feels like a slow fader but that is probably because I don't wear it everyday like my jeans and I often take it off during the day when I am wearing it. Love the lining but it makes it too warm to wear sometimes. More of a fall, winter jacket for me. Best compliment I can give it is that I feel no urge whatsoever to own another denim jacket, this one really hits the spot for me. 

 

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looks sick Pudas! We have a run in black and indigo without the lining and bandanna pocketing, coming thru the end of this month. Just a heads up to the SUFU family, we are offering 10% off for the incoming run of 13 oz ducks in both fits. American made canvas, Hickory(railroad) stripe pockets, tucked in belt loops, felled inseam, 1940's style repro metal buttons for $155 with the code DUCK10, shipped domestically for $140 Should be here in about 3 weeks. Discount is good until they land. 

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