home-made jeans

[raWorkshop]

Add the makers mark to the patch, 5 oz Hermann Oak veg tan.



Nice and crisp



And the hem






Back pockets hold the Field Notes carry I make, it was a struggle with past versions.
 

[raWorkshop]

Thanks y'all.

[bradl]

That's really awesome, I love seeing that step by step process. Thank you x2 (seen on Reddit when you posted)

[Canada_Steve]

A fantastic series of pictures, raW.  Thanks for taking the time to post all that.  It's interesting to see how different people approach a similar build.

Edited May 10, 2013 by Canada_Steve

[jerrylee]

Here are a pair of cinch backs that I made for a friend last year, with about 8 months of wear. I loved this denim and wish I had more. It was a Cone 12.5 oz. that I bought 40 yards of from Premium Denim Outlet. How the hell did I go through 40 yards of it?

 

 

 

 

[Moonshine]

^ I believe you made my jeans from that particular denim so I know where at least 20 yards of fabric went!

[Slowitchu]

Anyone know where I can find som good 16-19oz denim fabric?

[JohnWilkesHuth]

Peter at Globe will hook you up. He usually has tons of straight stitch Singers that are just taking up space, depending on his mood you might get one from $50-150. He has 3 warehouse floors of rusting machines that need love, it's crazy.

Peter at Globe is a cool dude! He said he'd let me use his $9400.00 buttonholer till I decide weather or not I'm "into denim" for the long haul. Also said I could use part of his building as a work space if I really get things going. Thanks for the tip Ra!

Edited July 1, 2013 by JohnWilkesHuth

[raWorkshop]

Awesome. I think I know which buttonhole machine you're talking about, what a monster. I'll be visiting Peter to get some more machines in the next few months, let's grab a beer.

[simontuntelder]

I have this project that I'm planning which includes having a pair of jeans custom made because I have this idea for a fit (high rise, regular seat and narrow hem) that nobody seems to make, so I've decided to go custom on this pair.

Basically I'm going to contact as many custom jeans makers, and discuss the project. The one who gets the project will then be featured on my own blog, and a very major denim site - as in really big (or even two major denim blogs). I would really like to feature some of the lesser known makers, and give the opportunity of some good online exposure + I'll of course pay for the jeans too.

SO if any of you guys are interested in taking the job, let me know either via PM or e-mail me at [email protected], and we can discuss the details further. And lastly I haven't been on the market for new jeans in a while, so if you have any ideas for other makers that make custom jeans, let me know, and I'll contact them myself.

[oranswell]

Anyone know where I can find som good 16-19oz denim fabric?

 

 

You'll find 16oz denim at Pacific Blue.

[JohnWilkesHuth]

You'll find 16oz denim at Pacific Blue.

I will second http://pacificbluedenims.com/

Especialy if you're only looking for a few yards. They will send you the swatches for free. (Next Day). I'm not sure about prices yet but they have about anything you could want.

[Slowitchu]

I will second http://pacificbluedenims.com/

Especialy if you're only looking for a few yards. They will send you the swatches for free. (Next Day). I'm not sure about prices yet but they have about anything you could want.

Yeah, found that site before. Really good supply!

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[grav.itas]

Anyone know of any summer weight denim suppliers? Plus if they have nihon menpu...

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[grav.itas]

Forgot to mention that I needed black and was looking for anywhere between 10-12 oz. PBD doesn't have black while Citron only offers 13 oz and higher...

 

Any other leads? Trying out Premium Denim Outlet but they hardly ever reply...

[dutchblack]

I just repped more people in the last 20 min than I have in my entire existence on superfuture. Keep up the amazing work.

 

On a side note, I am looking for a post about a sewing machine used in most fashion design schools. It was posted by either Ande Whall or by William Kroll of Tender. If you all have any suggestions please let me know.

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 12, 2015 by hoggreaser

[dutchblack]

Ya I was thinking it was as well. I just wanted to be sure. Thanks hoggreaser.

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[dutchblack]

Hi guys. Good work everyone, this is one of my favorite threads! That is a good book Jerrylee, they actually issue that to students at fashion school, I lost mine though. Quite a few people ask me about sewing machines, if you are just starting out or want to do some repairs I can recommend a Bernina Minimatic, or I think they are also called Bernina 830's or 807 etc, they come in a red plasic carry case. They are quite expensive now when I see them on auction sites, but you can still pick them up for cheap. The are around 70's I think, steel body and made in Switzerland. When I first started sewing I destroyed a few plastic body machines, but these little Bernina's are awesome, I made whole pairs of jeans using one. Cool dudes, keep up the good work.

 You were correct hoggreaser! Here is the post. Thanks for the help.

[rodeo bill]

^^yep, I also have a Bernina at home  it's called an Activa 135, and has a lot of functions I've never really used, but they're good solid machines. In retrospect I would have gone for a less fancy model. They're made of metal, and are good and solid. Mines not given me any trouble at all in 10 years or so (and if I'm honest, it's never had a service or a proper clean)

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 12, 2015 by hoggreaser

[JohnWilkesHuth]

Had to steal raWorkshops Motto!

 

 

 

That's a Bernina 830 that I found just across town from me a few months ago.  So far, it's working great.  should be able to post some actual jean photos soon.

Edited September 9, 2013 by JohnWilkesHuth

[Slowitchu]

Got any tips on a good, not too expensive machine good enough to make heavier jeans on?

[JohnWilkesHuth]

My first fit test on my first pattern/jeans.  No waist band and no cuff yet.  I used some scrap twill to test out my machines and the pattern.  It needs work but I'm pretty happy about going from pillow cases to this, in one shot...  

Edited September 17, 2013 by JohnWilkesHuth

[JohnWilkesHuth]

As you can see in the photos above I have decided to hold off on the hardware portion of the process, but I just ordered this!

 

 

$69.99 Scratch & Dent from a shop in California.  (Perfect Working Condition / Minor Scratches)  We shall see on friday.  No sales tax and free shipping!  I'm sure this thing weighs a ton, so I was pretty stoked about the free shipping.  

 

NOW, the Five little adjustment collars that you see at the bottom do not come with this hand press.  They will be supplied by dot-gas.com when I order my hardware & dies.  From what I understand, dot-gas dies are made specifically for this press & they have engineered these little collars to accommodate all the different dies that they make for all kinds of hardware, making this a very versatile little semi professional press.

 

These are the dies that I will be ordering along with the Swivel Post Buttons & Rivets from dot-gas.com

 

Buying the Press from dot-gas was not realistic as they are located in china and the shipping was going to be twice as expensive as the press.  They told me to buy the press from a shop here in the states and that they would supply me with the extra fittings.  This saved me about $70.00 once all is said and done.

 

I'll give a detailed review and process explanation once I get all the components together in one room. 

[TooAwesome]

is that your first own pattern? or was it a bought pattern?

looks great if its your own from scratch (Y)

[dutchblack]

Anyone know where you can find high quality denim buttons. I remember finding a place that had doughnut laural leaf buttons but cannot rememer where it was.