Sugar Cane Denim

[nairb49]

^^ very important to know heheh

cheers

nairb49

[Geowu]

hello Martin, and welcome to SF.

maybe I can't answer you for sure but I'll try my best.

the SC40501A seems to be a blend, a mixture between natural and synthetic indigo, while the SC40500N seems to be all natural indigo. as for the sizing, the SC40500N comes unwashed and shrinks 2 inches. the SC40501A comes with one-wash, theoretically shrunk.

my guess is (don't blame me if I'm wrong) you should take size 32 for the SC40501A (82cm) as well as for the SC40500N (unwashed=88cm, shrunk=83cm). 16.25 inches seem to correspond approximately to 82.6cm. they probably will stretch one inch too.

_____________________________

Edited by Geowu on Jan 6, 2006 at 06:59 AM

[docdoom]

Quote:

Rickson military chinos look mighty fine. Throw in one'a those work jackets and we'd be aiight. I saw William Gibson at a reading once, dude was sporting full-on Rickson/Sugarcane clothing. Made me want to kill him. Why aren't Americans making this stuff rather than a foreign power? It's Yankee shit they're copying. Surely America could produce this stuff just as well, no? Maybe someone out here with insight into this area could s'plain it to me. I'd be most appreciative.

--- Original message by Edge_Of_Denim on Jan 5, 2006 07:19 PM

Who is WIlliam Gibson?

[graham7]

"Who is William Gibson?"

iconic author, notable for 'neuromancer' and kicking off the whole 'cyberpunk' thing.

also wrote 'pattern recognition', which could be required reading for anyone on here . . . the buzz rickson connection is through 'pattern recognition'. gibson's main character in the novel is at one point in tokyo and gets hold of a rickson's ma-1 . . . in black. meanwhile, in the real world, buzz rickson's go 'hold on a minute, we don't make ma-1s in black . . . but why don't we?" . . . and the pattern recognition ma-1 is born and another tiny postmodern moment breezes by.

here's his website: www.williamgibsonbooks.com

[YoungPunch]

The Sugarcane edo-ai SC40501A is a one-wash. I usually wear a size 31, and the size 31 canes I own were very tight when I first got them. After a month of light/medium wear (I don't wear them everyday)They have stretched out in the waist a bit, but I still don't need to wear a belt with them. I think I would have ordered a size 32, because it does have a cinch back if I needed to tighten it up.

But note that this model is based on old 501s, so you probably want to wear them higher on the wasit. The ass on these jeans is HUGE, totally anti-fit. I'm a skinny guy with no ass, so the cut isn't the most flattering, but I love these jeans, they are one of my favorites.

Slubby denim, fairly heavy-weight 14+ ounces, and the greenish-hue indigo (synthetic and natural blend, I think) looks great. These things are fuzzy as hell, not being singed from the factory. The details like selvage on the inner waist band, and the oriental print motif pocket- bags are nice touches too.

[docdoom]

Quote:

"Who is William Gibson?"

iconic author, notable for 'neuromancer' and kicking off the whole 'cyberpunk' thing.

also wrote 'pattern recognition', which could be required reading for anyone on here . . . the buzz rickson connection is through 'pattern recognition'. gibson's main character in the novel is at one point in tokyo and gets hold of a rickson's ma-1 . . . in black. meanwhile, in the real world, buzz rickson's go 'hold on a minute, we don't make ma-1s in black . . . but why don't we?" . . . and the pattern recognition ma-1 is born and another tiny postmodern moment breezes by.

here's his website: www.williamgibsonbooks.com

--- Original message by graham7 on Jan 6, 2006 09:52 AM

Haha, great story, thanks for the detials!

[Edge_Of_Denim]

Graham7, whatyousaid.

[hahnstch]

to martin:

actually i just bought the SC40501A at hinoya a few days ago (i'm in tokyo now). i wear a 32 for n3bp and i have to go for a 33 for those canes.

i agree with geowu about the denim used. seems to be the same case as the 2 different hawaii denims that sugarcanes produce. i was told by the lady at hinoya that the cheaper one (priced at 17640 yen) is 20% natural indigo and the more expensive one (priced at 31290 yen i think) is 100% natural indigo.

i didnt try the SC40500N on, so i wouldnt know how the sizing goes. but judging from the measurements provided on the website get 32 to be safe even though you might be able to get away with 31 actually. but you definitely shouldnt go for 30 unless you dont plan to wash them at all or you'd like to dry clean them only.

Edited by hahnstch on Jan 9, 2006 at 06:01 PM

[john11f]

Quote:

to martin:

actually i just bought the SC40501A at hinoya a few days ago (i'm in tokyo now). i wear a 32 for n3bp and i have to go for a 33 for those canes.

i agree with geowu about the denim used. seems to be the same case as the 2 different hawaii denims that sugarcanes produce. i was told by the lady at hinoya that the cheaper one (priced at 17640 yen) is 20% natural indigo and the more expensive one (priced at 31290 yen i think) is 100% natural indigo.

i didnt try the SC40500N on, so i wouldnt know how the sizing goes. but judging from the measurements provided on the website get 32 to be safe even though you might be able to get away with 31 actually. but you definitely shouldnt go for 30 unless you dont plan to wash them at all or you'd like to dry clean them only.

Edited by hahnstch on Jan 9, 2006 at 06:01 PM

--- Original message by hahnstch on Jan 9, 2006 05:58 PM

hahnstch, i just bought but haven't received a 40500. I normally wear a size 34 but based on the sizing chart in rakuten, it seems like the 33 of the 40500N is the size 34 for the 40400N. Will you be able to confirm if this is really their true sizing for both pairs? A size 33 is on its way...

http://www.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rakuten.co.jp%2Fhinoya%2F119706%2F256094%2F356860%2F&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF8

[john11f]

Here's the sizing chart for the 40400N:

http://www.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rakuten.co.jp%2Fhinoya%2F119706%2F256094%2F356860%2F&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF8

[hahnstch]

hey john, unfortunately i'll be flying back to NY tomorrow morning so i'm afraid i dont have time to go back to hinoya to check.

[john11f]

Not a problem hahnstch, thanks for the reply. I guess there's only one way to find out. When I get them from Celga probably a week from now, I'll give you guys a review...

[bonan]

Thanks for the answers!

It's pointing towards the 40500N in size 32. I will shrink them before use, and I guess the waist will stretch out if it's too small. I'm looking forward fot your review on the 40500s john11f.

Cheers.

[red]

where can i find sugarcanes in okinawa japan?

[john11f]

rem1x47, maybe you can shed some light on the subject since you have both edo ai and hawaii Sugarcanes? I'm getting a bit uneasy....

[rem1x47]

john11f, you should be fine buying a size 33. The waist will stretch out a bit after you wear them. I got 34s for both, and after shrinking the waist on both were identical. They are a bit loose on me now. I wish I had bought 33s.

As for shrinking them, I cold soaked them in my bathtub for 4 hrs. There was little or no indigo loss when I soaked them. The guy at hinoya told me the length will shrink approximately 6-8 cm after soaking and he was correct.

Other than that, they're a great pair of jeans and they smell great. It takes a few days to get use to the itchy fibers. I have a habit of picking out the fibers when I'm bored.

I hope I answered your question. Good Luck!

[john11f]

Quote:

john11f, you should be fine buying a size 33. The waist will stretch out a bit after you wear them. I got 34s for both, and after shrinking the waist on both were identical. They are a bit loose on me now. I wish I had bought 33s.

As for shrinking them, I cold soaked them in my bathtub for 4 hrs. There was little or no indigo loss when I soaked them. The guy at hinoya told me the length will shrink approximately 6-8 cm after soaking and he was correct.

Other than that, they're a great pair of jeans and they smell great. It takes a few days to get use to the itchy fibers. I have a habit of picking out the fibers when I'm bored.

I hope I answered your question. Good Luck!

--- Original message by rem1x47 on Jan 11, 2006 02:03 AM

Whew! Thanks very much rem1x47 that's a relief! I can't wait for them. How do you find the natural indigo color/hue? Any chance of poisting pics? Which of the two pairs you bought strike you the most? Thanks again!

[rem1x47]

john11f, what kind of pics are you looking for? Let me know and I'll take some pics. From the two pairs I really like the Edos. The indigo has a nice greenish tint and the warp threads' color is not uniform. It's pretty interesting to look at. The Hawaiis are similar, but the thing that strikes me most is the color of the Edos.

[bonan]

to rem1x47. didn't the waist on the 40500N shrink at all?? Shouldn't they have shrinked some since they are unsanforized??I was planning to get the 32s but maybe I should go down even futher?? or would they shrink more if you use hotter water?

oh no now I have decision problems again

Cheers

[rem1x47]

hey bonan, If you're a true size 32 I would get a 32. It really all depends on how you like to wear it, loose on the waist or tight. If you get a 31 it will stretch out some. I used cold water to shrink my jeans so I'm not sure how warmer water will affect the sizing. I would believe that it will shrink more if you used warmer water. But I would be weary of using warmer water since it may create more indigo loss.

[Geowu]

I think probably they fit true to size (after shrinkage) but then they stretch up to an inch with everyday wear. (so a 32 would, maybe, eventually, become 33)

[rem1x47]

bonan, just to be safe I would go for your true waist size.

[john11f]

Quote:

john11f, what kind of pics are you looking for? Let me know and I'll take some pics. From the two pairs I really like the Edos. The indigo has a nice greenish tint and the warp threads' color is not uniform. It's pretty interesting to look at. The Hawaiis are similar, but the thing that strikes me most is the color of the Edos.

--- Original message by rem1x47 on Jan 11, 2006 01:50 PM

Any pic on the progress of your jeans will do, thanks.

[rem1x47]

to rnr, do you have any insights on washing your canes in warmer water?

[partytaco]

interesting if you have't already seen and have always wondered what individual pieces it takes to make a pair jeans.

http://www.sugarcane.jp/standard/standard05.html

[rnrswitch]

If you are going to wash your jeans in warm water, I would say machine wash them in warm with a cold rinse. You can allow it to spin dry the jeans if you want or you can take them out wet and allow them to drip dry. While the jeans are damp wear them until they are close to completely dry. This sets the creases. If you don't want to wear them while they dry, you can wait until they dry and then spray the lap area and back of the knees and wear the jeans until they dry. This will also set the creases. Remember to wash them inside out!! That's it.

[minya]

rnrswitch, how tall are you? And what inseam of Canes did you get?

[rnrswitch]

I am 5'11" and i bought the jeans in a 34 inch inseam. The jeans currently measure about 33 inches in the inseam.

[Edge_Of_Denim]

mrswitch, that 33" inseam, that's short, isn't it? At 5'11" you're certainly not short. I'd like to go for a pair of those one-wash '47's, but coming as they do with a 36" inseam, if they shrink more than two inches I'm completely screwed. I'm 6'2" and anything shorter than a 34" inseam is out of the question. Particulary in denim. Trousers are fine in 34", but in denim it I require a 36". They just don't break properly otherwise. Rickson's, as you know, have that generous 39" inseam, right out of the box. No worries there. Here's something: the guy at Hist. Pres. told me he's about 6' tall and his 47's fit fine. Well, maybe, but I don't know if I'm completely sold.

I should mention that I own jeans which were purchesed 34" length and they fit fine. But in the case of Levi's I have to have a 36". I 'spose it's a label-to-label thing. I'd hate to buy those Canes, soak them, and then find I'm the owner of a nearly $200 pair of highwaters!!

Edited by Edge_Of_Denim on Jan 13, 2006 at 08:54 AM

[obsessis]

EOD- I'm in the same boat as you. with levi 501's or replica's i wear them much higher on the waist so i need a longer inseam. 34" would the the absolute minimum and if i was spending almost $200 i'd want the longer inseam, like the ricksons. Maybe they can special order a pair of canes with a longer inseam? it's worth a shot.