Vintage Denim?

[scooby]

 

[aho]

^haha I swiped the same screenshot, glad to know I'm not the only denim creeper 😂

[aho]

Commentary etc. can be ignored, but wow at the 30:33min mark

[aho]

https://www.instagram.com/p/DLKl7waz9Wa/?img_index=2

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@Dr_Heech for you  I posted a link to the pictures earlier but here is a video.

 

[Dr_Heech]

Thanks for that @beautiful_FrEaK Love a Levi's buckleback!

[Dr_Heech]

Nothing to get excited about but am watching these Nos Levis 1501 0117 double lock-stitch redlines in a size 35 x 38 on greedbay. The reason l'm watching them, being l'm always trying to 'revaluate' my own pair, which are almost identical but made in 1978.

The reason for sharing though is that I've always wondered when the switch between the wash tag stating 8% shrinkage and 10% shrinkage, and l can conclude that it seems from the 1981 model 501 onwards, the 10% label was the norm. Obviously there are anomalies etc but this is not in anyway conclusive as levis labels don't always match garments plus the newer, wider looms that Cone had in to replace the older ones were switched around the early 80s. So maybe that's significant? Fyi These were made at one of the 3 San Fran factories in June of 1980.

Anyway enough ramblings. Some photos..

 

 

[Edit] Scrap that! Found a 1980 made one with 10% shrinkage label. So l'm guessing the change started (throughout all of the factories?) in 1980 and then implemented when the 1981 flasher was introduced. 

Edited August 9, 2025 by Dr_Heech
To clarify

[Dr_Heech]

Always thought the 1501 0117,  2501 0117, 3501 0117 and 4501 0117 stamped on the two horse patch on a pair of Levis 501's was a mid 1970s thing until maybe very early 1980s, but found this pair in a vintage store online and they are clearly a late 1960s pair, got the V stitch and Big E, so had to share.

 

 

The 1 and 2 prefixes were there to indicate longer than standard leg lengths, 1 indicating 38" leg length and 2 indicating 40" leg length.

The 3 was used as a prefix to pairs with a waist size of 44 or above regardless of leg length (?) and the 4 prefix l've seen only on those massive display pairs of 501's in a size 76x45. 

Edited September 20, 2025 by Dr_Heech
To clarify

[Broark]

Great pair of S501xx's from Mushroom, just look at those pocket bags.

[indigoeagle]

Is sleek an English word for pocket bags or where does it come from? 

[Broark]

I've always assumed it's some sort of translation fumble.

[Broark]

And these jeans could be yours for a cool 15 million yen...insane.
Some more photos here.

[Cold Summer]

For some reason Japanese denim lingo uses スレーキ, "sleek" or "slake", as the term for twill pocket pocket bags, though occasionally it gets used in this context as well, when the pocket bags are made of a different material like flannel. I have no idea what the etymological origin of this is, as there doesn't seem to be anything particularly sleek about any twill pocket material I've ever seen.

Incredible pair of flannel S501xx, though! Thanks for sharing.

[Dr_Heech]

On 9/10/2024 at 3:50 PM, Dr_Heech said:

Going back to the flannel pocket bags on og Levis, l saw these pics on lg and had to share. Another flannel colour combo alternative to the usual herringbone twill or the natural cotton pocket material. 

 

 

@Broark same pair l posted last September on the ww2 details thread 🙂

[TripicalMidbooster]

On 8/29/2025 at 11:21 AM, Cold Summer said:

For some reason Japanese denim lingo uses スレーキ, "sleek" or "slake", as the term for twill pocket pocket bags, though occasionally it gets used in this context as well, when the pocket bags are made of a different material like flannel. I have no idea what the etymological origin of this is, as there doesn't seem to be anything particularly sleek about any twill pocket material I've ever seen.

Incredible pair of flannel S501xx, though! Thanks for sharing.

Looking it up in a JPN dictionary, 「スレーキ」is the loan word for cotton and rayon twills with a sheen that are used as linings for Western clothing. Probably entered the language as a way to describe some of the new types of industrial fabrics entering Japan with the arrival of Western clothes in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

[Dr_Heech]

I don't really use Instagram for much but sometimes random searches bring up interesting things. This user has posted two photos of a deadstock 1922 501XX complete with the earlier 'For over 50 years' ticket stating Nine ounce denim etc. Tbh for me they look to be made around 1926-1928 as they have the more modern flat suspender buttons and newer machined pressed rivets rather than older dimple topped ones. But still have those beautiful shapes on the pocket corners due to single needle sewing machines being used at the time. This pair is earlier than the Nos 1922 pair in the book too.

 

According to the Levis jackets book the use of twin needle sewing machines was a post war thing yet Lee were using twin needle since c.1936 and some other denim manufacturers even earlier.

 

^In the second photo you can see more of his collection, three pairs of bucklebacks,  all size 36 waist, but all different. The Nos pair already mentioned are single stitched and unwashed and are late 20's. The second pair to the left look to be one wash but if you look at the pocket corner it is twin needle stitched. These '1922' pair date from c.1933-1936 at the latest which means that Levi's was using twin needle machines from around those dates. In the Levi's Denim jackets book the curved pocket flap change occurred around 1933/1934 judging by the photos.

Last interesting thing about that second photo is the difference in colour between the no wash belt loop compared to the one wash pairs' belt loop. Lighter, shirt weight denim to thank for that, unlike the pair in the top left which have the same denim weight belt loops as the jeans themselves, making them a '1937' pair.

Anyway,  carry on.

Edited September 13, 2025 by Dr_Heech
To edit obvs

[TripicalMidbooster]

Women's denim jacket, c 1850, United States. From the collection of The Museum at FIT

This jacket would have been worn over a woman’s work dress or blouse, most likely while she labored outdoors. Its construction mimics the fashionable hourglass silhouette of the period, with tucks that cinch at the wrists and natural waistline. Denim is typically thought of as a menswear textile, but it was also common in women’s workwear during the 19th century.

(... I like the idea of a cropped stand collar one pocket overshirt jacket!)

[Facini]

Newest catch - another 101-J. This one without any “MR” labeling. Also “X” on the back of the buttons.

I’m guessing the line on the upper chest is a denim “seam” of sorts?

[Maynard Friedman]

^ I think it’s called ‘loom chatter’.

[cultpop 0217]

Anyone remember Levi's Hard Jeans? 

568 Straight leg "Large" fit with button fly. 

1998, Made in USA

Forgive the bed head please...

 

As we all know Levis rarely used a button fly outside of the 501 BUT back in the late 90s they released these. 

 

Made out of extra stiff and heavy denim the Hard Jeans came in two (?) fits for men: " 568 Large" and "575 Baggy". Both came in this extra dark, heavy, raw denim.  Tag indicates about 3% shrinkage but only the 568 had a button fly. The fit is basically a 501 with a more generous rise, looser top block and a much straighter wider leg, not unlike the boxier 1955 501.

I find it intersting that Levis starred promoting rigid denim years before the raw denim trend got going.  

 

I think I prefer the double cuff to the monster cuff...thoughts? 

 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Double cuff in this case for me

[vIGGiou riou]

agree... must be double cuff. looks much better...

[PBTony]

5 hours ago, cultpop 0217 said:

Anyone remember Levi's Hard Jeans? 

568 Straight leg "Large" fit with button fly. 

1998, Made in USA

Forgive the bed head please...

 

As we all know Levis rarely used a button fly outside of the 501 BUT back in the late 90s they released these. 

 

Made out of extra stiff and heavy denim the Hard Jeans came in two (?) fits for men: " 568 Large" and "575 Baggy". Both came in this extra dark, heavy, raw denim.  Tag indicates about 3% shrinkage but only the 568 had a button fly. The fit is basically a 501 with a more generous rise, looser top block and a much straighter wider leg, not unlike the boxier 1955 501.

I find it intersting that Levis starred promoting rigid denim years before the raw denim trend got going.  

 

I think I prefer the double cuff to the monster cuff...thoughts? 

 

Great fit on these!
 

 

[Dr_Heech]

For your perusal.

Used to see these 40s/50s giant store display 501 often on ebay, now you're lucky to see 70s or 80s pairs and even then for ridiculous prices.

Saw these on JC vintage jeans. They are interesting for a number of reasons so l thought l'd post here.

 

Firstly the extra beltloops at the front. On  regular display pairs they omitted these, having just the usual one beltloop either side of the fly - 

 

And the extra fly button. Regular display 501's have 5 fly plus waist button, these have 6 plus WB.

 

I'm guessing these are post 1957 as they have the offset belt loop at the centre/back?

 

The patch is the best part - 502SXXEEE, waist 76 x length 45.

502 was a larger than usual waist size  designation which l've seen on an image l have of a pair of display 1930's '501XX' so its history goes way back (later the '502' would resurface as a 60's zipper fly Levi's jean). We understand that S indicated Special length and EEE for Extra Extra Extra (in garment size generally). Only early display pairs have the length 45", most regular 50's-80's pairs l've seen have 46" as length. 

Anyway,  enough ramblings. Have a good day.

 

[Edit - correction, on closer inspection, EEE]

Edited November 15, 2025 by Dr_Heech
To clarify

[cultpop 0217]

Awesome. 

[aho]

Sacrilege but I guess they will be worn 

[Dr_Heech]

On 8/21/2025 at 5:32 PM, reubensangwich said:

A couple shots by Marion Post Wolcott.

 

If you zoom in you can read the lot and size numbers. 

 

Match strikes on the right hamstring.

Patch removed, cinch as well, or possibly an S501 with watch pocket rivets.

Bumping for further discussion and didn't want to shit up the Iconic photos thread any longer.

So l think my main reason for thinking that these ^ pairs of vintage levis are 37's/cinchbacks was the position of the red tab (i.e placed high up on the pocket) although l didn't like that fact alone as a dating tool for research purposes. But here l found a pair of 37's where the red tab is further down, proving that there was at least some variation.

 

 

But on closer inspection of the above photos you posted, l've realised that the back leg panels on the jeans are right over left, so definately pre- 1942. Now that's a dating tool l can keep! Don't know why l didn't remember 😅

Edited October 18, 2025 by Dr_Heech
To clarify

[Dr_Heech]

From the largest 501XX available (76x45) to the smallest pair ever available. 

 

I've seen images of a dozen or so salesman sample pairs but never this small, l mean they look like they'd fit a Buddy Lee doll. The tab is almost the  length of the pocket!

If you click twice you can just make out the J stamp on the back of the top button. 

 

 

Edited November 9, 2025 by Dr_Heech
Forgot the J stamp info

[Maynard Friedman]

That was the inspiration for True Religion wasn’t it?

[Dr_Heech]

6 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

That was the inspiration for True Religion wasn’t it?

Unsure of what you mean exactly Martin, l'm not familiar with that brand?