SugarCane 1990's M-Series Archive

[Double 0 Soul]

It's finally stopped raining .. we've had dry spells but i wanted to clean all the slimey green algea from the patio before laying my precious jeans out.. which i did on Christmas Eve, Woop.. i know how to party!

On the left are M41101.. i paid more money than i care to remember for thes jeans, i don't regret it.. on the right are M41072, the seller was having a clearout, the M41072 were listed at ¥60k.. when the Leepro sold, they dropped the price to ¥50k by the time the Leepro landed with me, they'd dropped the price to ¥45k.. i ordered them but Japan Rabbit were running 3 days behind schedule with ordering.. so i had a bit of a nail biter.. the price of the jeans kept dropping while Japanese workers then took a few days off for Kinrō Kansha no Hi.. by the time work resumed i had no f'kin nails left but on the up.. i only paid around ¥37k which balanced out the price of the Leepros 

..first up are these M41072s

They're a late 20s Levis repro or what LVC would call an LVC 1927.

Lighweight red / pinkline selvedge.. they feel around 10oz which would be correct.

Button backs are blank

Here is something i haven't come across.. the beltloops are shirt weight material

..it feels like 5oz (6 at the most) chambray.. what's the historical significance here @Dr_Heech ?

Next up are the M41101.. my first pair of Leepro's.. i ♥️ these jeans with their oversized back pockets.. they just feel like something better than what i'm used to

Lovely stitch detail on the hide patch

..incredible that they can spell 'differentiate' correctly but not 'strength'

Whiteline

Phwoar!

..again, button backs are blank

Union label

Line up..

 

Edited December 26, 2025 by Double 0 Soul

[Dr_Heech]

@Double 0 Soul l think that 1922-36 501's had shirt weight belt loops,  probably 7.5oz as the jeans would have been 9oz moving towards 10oz in 1933.

[Double 0 Soul]

Thanks Chaz.. did LVC have shirt weight loops? i can't remember it being discussed

[Dr_Heech]

33 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Thanks Chaz.. did LVC have shirt weight loops? i can't remember it being discussed

No nothing that accurate unfortunately. 

[MJF9]

TCB 20s also had lightweight belt loops

[Broark]

The Freewheelers 601xx 1922 model also had lightweight belt loops.

[julian-wolf]

^ I have an old pair of Warehouse w/ the same detail

[Double 0 Soul]

Ok I get the picture so.. it was just LVC that didn't?  *insert shakey fist emoji*

 

 

[Dr_Heech]

10 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

^ I have an old pair of Warehouse w/ the same detail

Same. Nice detail too

[Double 0 Soul]

Here is a little booklet called 'Sugar Cane Boy' which Sugarcane started to include with their jeans in 1998 because they felt that folks were getting too careful and meticulous with their denim washing regime.. losing the natural character of the denim in the process...  

"just fkin wash them nob-heads!" 

Translate in a nutshell..

"Wash your raw denim in the machine for between 1 and 5mins with no detergent, no need to turn them inside out.. see i told you!  .. ring the wet jeans out by hand to avoid the indigo running down to the bottom of the legs.. you can spin the water off if you wish but we suggest this^ is the best method.. after wearing, wash them when they need it but a shorter time in the machine will produce better results, don't wash or soak for long periods"

..ect

Edited January 17 by Double 0 Soul

[Double 0 Soul]

This is a beautifully worn Typ2.. but fk me! look at the price!

https://zenmarket.jp/mercariproduct.aspx?itemCode=m41018546130

[MJF9]

SCSC 1945 unworn set, marked up a fair bit though

[ATWM]

22 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

This is a beautifully worn Typ2.. but fk me! look at the price!

https://zenmarket.jp/mercariproduct.aspx?itemCode=m41018546130

that pocket fade kinda ruins it for me - def not worth it! 

[Thicolas Rage]

@Double 0 Soul I saw the same sentiment about washing being shared by Fullcount still in the big ‘26:

 

 

Although I’m not even close to sure how I would go about setting my washing machine to a 1-5 min cycle like Sugarcane suggests lol

Edited January 23 by Thicolas Rage

[Double 0 Soul]

1 hour ago, Thicolas Rage said:

Although I’m not even close to sure how I would go about setting my washing machine to a 1-5 min cycle like Sugarcane suggests lol

I used to do exactly this^ with our old analogue machine (never 1-5 tho.. usually 10) I'd lob the jeans in the machine, turn the dial to rinse, let it fill with water,  leave them 10mins then if you pushed the (clockwork) dial in and held it, it would force stop the cycle.. you couldn't open the door till all the water had drained out, i'd transfer the sopping wet jeans to a bucket, ring them out in the bath.. thread a wooden dowel through the belt loops and leave them to drip (we didn't have a washing line) once they stopped dripping i would transfer them to the porch to dry.. but as you say.. our new digital machine isn't as raw denim friendly 

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

The type 3 came. Much better than I anticipated. Great fabric and great fit. First thought was to cut off sleeves and make a vest, but not sure about that now. 
 

[okimoto]

7 hours ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

The type 3 came. Much better than I anticipated. Great fabric and great fit. First thought was to cut off sleeves and make a vest, but not sure about that now. 

That fit is too good for the sleeves to get cut off👍

[CSL]

15 hours ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

The type 3 came. Much better than I anticipated. Great fabric and great fit. First thought was to cut off sleeves and make a vest, but not sure about that now. 
 

 

A couple of things come to mind. First, you could undo the cuffs and flip them up x1. Not a bad look and it would make the sleeve length less of an issue. Secondly, I recall a vintage dealer friend telling me that with steam ironing he could get 3 or 4 inches back out of the legs of a shrunk pair of jeans. Might be worth a try here. An inch or two would make a significant difference.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

4 hours ago, CSL said:

A couple of things come to mind. First, you could undo the cuffs and flip them up x1. Not a bad look and it would make the sleeve length less of an issue. Secondly, I recall a vintage dealer friend telling me that with steam ironing he could get 3 or 4 inches back out of the legs of a shrunk pair of jeans. Might be worth a try here. An inch or two would make a significant difference.

I don’t really have a problem with the sleeves at all. The initial purpose of purchasing was to buy a cheap old type iii and make a vest out of it. I bought this for ~40$ on mericari. Didn’t expect much it 😅. 
 

I guess I need to go back and look for a denim vest…

[CSL]

Ah, ok. I totally misunderstood...Either way it's a cool jacket.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

16 minutes ago, CSL said:

Ah, ok. I totally misunderstood...Either way it's a cool jacket.

Well, there’s was really no way for you to know. Turns out I had a conversation about it on the ‘vintage repro’ thread and not here 😅

[Double 0 Soul]

 Lot 213

This was washed once.. turned out to be too small so the seller put it on ice for 30+ yrs

Yet to be pierced

Crinkly

x-post from waywt

Edited February 7 by Double 0 Soul

[Double 0 Soul]

Fuck crypto.. 'denim currency' is finally happening people.. £1000 for DS M41030s

I paid £80 for mine so thats a 1200% return on my investment in less than 5yrs

Seller also has a newly listed pair of MP-604 in your size @julian-wolf .. amongst, it seems 1000s of other pairs.

[CSL]

Are any of them actually fetching those kind of prices?

[Double 0 Soul]

7 minutes ago, CSL said:

Are any of them actually fetching those kind of prices?

Fetching!? ..  you’re obviously not familiar with the world of speculative denim investments. 

[julian-wolf]

I hate to admit it, but if those MP-604 were half the price I’d actually be tempted…

Funny to think that my spare closet is outpacing the S&P 500

[CSL]

37 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Fetching!? ..  you’re obviously not familiar with the world of speculative denim investments. 

Apparently so. If I had been I wouldn't have sold my vintage pieces for low-hundreds when I could be getting thousands today.

[yung_flynn]

1 hour ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Fuck crypto.. 'denim currency' is finally happening people.. £1000 for DS M41030s

I paid £80 for mine so thats a 1200% return on my investment in less than 5yrs

Seller also has a newly listed pair of MP-604 in your size @julian-wolf .. amongst, it seems 1000s of other pairs.

Speaking of, I stumbled across this deadstock pair of M41058 for $800 USD yesterday.

Sugar Cane 32x35 Wrangler Homage Lot M41058 Unused limited From JAPAN◎ | eBay

They're rapidly creeping up to Evis No. 1 prices

Edited February 9 by yung_flynn

[Double 0 Soul]

Excerpts from a sales thread..

Furthermore, this item belongs to the so-called "M series" produced in the mid-1990s, a
category that is currently being rediscovered among replica denim enthusiasts.

 

■ About the 90s M series
(why is it being reevaluated now?)

The M series from the mid-90s to which this product belongs has a slightly different position than the current SUGAR CANE.

In this era,
the vintage market was not yet as expensive as it is today
. The real thing could be directly referenced as a research subject
. Reproducibility was prioritized over commercial efficiency and weight reduction.

This is a replica made in such an environment.

Therefore, the M series items have the following characteristics:
the fabric is rough
, the stitching and parts are realistic
, and the size is closer to the workwear of the time.

It has the following characteristics and embodies a different "atmosphere of the times" than current products .

More than 30 years have passed since their release, and replicas, which
are neither vintage nor current, are now a category that is being reevaluated as
they have aged over time .

 

It's not just a reproduction, but
the replica itself has an air of being a vintage piece .

.Realistic aging over 30 years

This item meets all of these criteria and is a valuable piece in the history of replicas .

It's not just a denim jacket, but
the feeling of wearing historical facts, ideas, and the replica culture of the 90s itself .

 

 

[Double 0 Soul]

Fade potential of the above M11317 ❤️