INTERN ■ Technical Apparel Research & Projects Administration

[CB200]

Nice work and congratulations on getting the weight down. The lower limit for the other ultralight 3-layer taped garments seems to be around the 120ish gram range and that's with minimal features. This fabric does seem to help lower that bar significantly in the weight dept. Super exciting to see a "school project" have the possibility of becoming a commercial project and going to bulk production. 

[gantz]

Wow, congrats dude! And you already planing a production of it with a major factory is fire!
 

[the-intern]

30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - FINALE! - World's Lightest Jacket

 

The challenge is complete and I'm happy to share with you the final project. The worlds lightest waterproof breathable coat!  
 
The idea of the worlds lightest for the sake thereof is a little silly to me and by and large all of the jackets on the market to date which have hit sub 100Grams have all done so by sacrificing features and build quality... often to the point of producing jackets that are barely marketable as 'wind resistant'.

My intent was to try and include all the features that I've come to know and love and expect from a performance coat. The textile needed to be waterproof and breathable. I wanted the coat to be genuinely durable, unlike some of the ultralight gore-membrane coats which are so delicate even backpack straps would shred them to bits. I prefer a trim cut in my garment fits, as well the coat needed to accommodate a full dynamic range of movement. 

I'm incredibly pleased to say that I was able to not only smash the record for lightest waterproof jacket but I was able to do so while including all of the features on my list at the outset. Full front zip, 4pockets, adjustible hood, sleeves and hem. 

This first prototype comes in weighing approximately 85Grams, however I estimate that the final production item will be less than 70Grams!!! 
I used oversized hardware, overweight shockcord, heavy duty thread, and the wrong zipper variety, so there's a lot of room to bring down the final weight.

check out the final result gallery and project log here

I've been in contact with the amazing team over at Massdrop who are interested in helping me bring this coat to reality as a fully purchable product! Tune in over the next few weeks and months and we prepare to make that announcement officially - fingers crossed that we can bring this to market within the next few months.

Thank you also to everyone who entered the Raffle. I had souls from literally every corner of the globe sign up with a chance of winning. The results have been tallied and the winners have been notified, so if you've not yet heard from me then I'm sorry to say you weren't amung the winners. To those lucky 25 who won, be sure to check your inboxes for further instructions.

This last month has been the most incredible and exciting of my life so far! I'm truly astonished at the tremendous response you've all had to my works.  Thank you all so much for the kind words, the support, the suggestions, and opportunities.

Most of all shout out to all of you who have taken to the sewing machines yourselves. At the beginning of this project I never imagined that I'd be inspiring people from all over the world to pickup a new skill. I love waking up to an inbox full of your shared experiments and projects, please keep those coming!

Solong for now, and thank you again!
-end-

Edited March 15, 2018 by the-intern

[gantz]

Congratulations to this very successful endeavour! Also, thanks for documenting and sharing your process in such great detail.

I'm happy to see that you were presented with a great job offer within these few weeks and very rightly so. Can't wait to see how your career will further progress and what products you will come up.

[the-intern]

I made another 1-piece coat the other day, this time I experimenting with some of the merino faced Schoeller softshell I love so much.

You can see in the above GIF the dynamic range of movement around the arm.

Thanks again for following along everyone. The challenge is complete but there will be much more to come in the future, I very much plan on continuing to share my works with the community in the weeks and months to come..

-end-

[arekkusuro]

hey man! this is so great to see. congratulations on finishing your challenge! Followed you day one on reddit and it's been such an absolute treat.

looking forward to seeing what else you might have in store. the lightest jacket being mass produced is hopefully great news for you! i'll be on the lookout.

 

that one piece coat with merino face schoeller is great, too. the range of motion is perfectly shown in the gif. would love to see more angles / shots of the coat itself!

[the-intern]

@arekkusuro - many thanks! glad you followed along, and happy you enjoyed the challenge!

 

My buddy captured a pic of me in my natural environment, plugging away at the Juki.

It's been a hell of a month everyone.

/thread

Edited March 17, 2018 by the-intern

[Inkinsurgent]

loved to follow your process every step of the way, dude. definitely keep us posted on your future plans! 

 

that schoeller wool jacket is just unf. like i said on insta, the textile perfectly highlights how cool the patterning is. i would love to see your take on a leather jacket!

[the-intern]

@Inkinsurgent - lovelovelove bud! Thank you again.

 

HOLY FUCK... The CBC did an article on me?!?!? (and they spelled my name wrong? haha)

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/vancouver-fashion-student-creates-new-garment-every-day-for-30-days-1.4580636

Edited March 17, 2018 by the-intern

[akuma no uta]

Wow!!! Standing ovation man. 

 

You got customers out the ass lined up here already. 

 

That wool 1 piece is possibly one of the sexiest things I’ve ever seen. 

[mariahscarry]

On 3/15/2018 at 2:03 PM, the-intern said:

I made another 1-piece coat the other day, this time I experimenting with some of the merino faced Schoeller softshell I love so much.

You can see in the above GIF the dynamic range of movement around the arm.

Thanks again for following along everyone. The challenge is complete but there will be much more to come in the future, I very much plan on continuing to share my works with the community in the weeks and months to come..

-end-

In literal awe, just wow. As a fashion student dropout, i've been following your 30-day DIY project and have found myself more inspired than ever before. Bravo all around sir, each and every day had its strengths and weaknesses that you immediately learned and implemented into your next day. I hope we can meet someday and congratulations on your new job, I and everyone else here know how much you deserve it. Can't wait to see where what the future brings you <3

[the-intern]

Again I say I and again I truly mean it! Thank you all so so much for the support... I don't know what to say anymore... I'm boiled over!

 

Then I wake up to this... which I'm super pleased to say also features some heavy props to Sufu and you all!!!

https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/ender-severin-the-intern-techwear/

[the-intern]

Finally back to making shit!

After a CRAZY month of chasing opportunity and adventure from all directions I finally got back to my sewing machine this week!

Today I present the fully developed version of what I've been calling "The Mission Pack", my interpretation of the penultimate urban daypack.

I've made three in total (so-far!), each with different combinations of textiles, with construction details best suited to each.

Fully modular interior, removable laptop sleeve, straps, carry handle... just about everything can be stripped out and customized to suit your taste, style or daily needs. ⠀⠀⠀

 

This one is made to outgun the T-1000, featuring the most bomb proof construction I'm able to achieve... Nearly everything on this beast but the webbing would stand up to a direct flame! Salts, uv, acid, and of course water are all no concern as well.

Hypalon Mission Pack Gallery

 

 

This one is an homage to the swag of the NASA Mercury era! Made from ultra fine metallic fabric, developed by the same company who makes X-Pac fabric. Nothing about this is subtle, everything pure space mission functional... of all the packs in my collection this is my new favorite!

SPACE Mission Pack Gallery

 

 

The third of three, made from glued and bonded VX42 for a fully watertight seal. An unnecessarily durable Liteskin liner adds strength and a pop of texture to the interior. The exterior is fully ninja approved, black on black on -slightly darker- black.

X-Pac Mission Pack Gallery

 

In other news I've got a whole whack of exciting projects inbound! shh!

Thank you again and over all for the support getting me to a position where I'm now able to now work on my dream projects!!!

 

 

[the-intern]

 

THANKS Highsnobiety for this awesome article on the Techwear DIY community!

www.highsnobiety.com/p/techwear-diy/

Shoutout to the masters of their craft!
https://www.instagram.com/jdotkdot
https://www.instagram.com/ogreziv
https://www.instagram.com/crkdsaint
https://www.instagram.com/garuda_ss

Also some more of my favorite makers!:
https://www.instagram.com/aokuco (How'd they miss Danii!?!)
https://www.instagram.com/rx3000
https://www.instagram.com/search.outfitted
https://www.instagram.com/_ikeuchi

I've been in contact with a number of fellow techwear makers these past few weeks.

Working on a bunch of collabs to bring this amazing community together!

Keep tuned, these guys are cooking up far too much awesome to be contained!

 

If you're out there making techwear yourself please reach out, would love to hear from you!!!

 

Edited April 25, 2018 by the-intern

[the-intern]

Met with deadbird today! Very excited about the possibilities there!

I'll do my utmost to make you all proud!

[wexler]

31 minutes ago, the-intern said:

Met with deadbird today! Very excited about the possibilities there!

I'll do my utmost to make you all proud!

Much love man, best wishes in your endeavors. You deserve it.

[pompadork]

 

[the-intern]

@pompadork - You make me wonder why it is that I have no colour shifting fabrics in my shelves... lets fix this!

 

I have a very exciting announcement!

 

Techwear is coming to Savile Row!!!
And I'm off to Italy to make it so!

What happens when you put a technical agenda and utilitarian focus in the minds and hands of the finest Italian tailors?
The historic Italian fashion house D'avenza, along with the fabric mills of Luigi Botto and Ormezzano have asked me to bring together two of the most radically disparate worlds of fashion... beskpoke hand craft is about to collide head-on with bleeding edge material science!

D'avenza is considered by many to be the finest manufacturer of ready-to-wear tailored clothing, and produces the most luxurious textiles for the highest levels of the fashion world. I can't wait to begin... I can barely breathe... It feels like I was just handed the keys to a new Ferrari!!!

 

With the price of techwear what it is today... there's no reason not to approach garments with the same level of hand crafted bespoke care that goes into the finest tailored suits. In June I'm off to Italy to explore the possibility of hand crafted Italian technical apparel. At Luigi Botto and Ormezzano I get to explore radical new types of textiles, for example: blending technical yarns with the highest performing luxury wools such as Vicuna.

 

This is going to be fucking wild!

[the-intern]

What would a 1970's Marlon Brando wear if transported to the year 2045 to star in a live action DeusEx film... I wonder?
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Can't wait to dig my teeth into re-imagining the past! Stay tuned for the upcoming release of a newly reconsidered version of the legendary 1972 film "Last Tango in Paris".
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
We celebrate one of the main characters of the movie, his swag, his sex, and his legacy with a fresh new aesthtic...

Coming soon: The Marlon Brando FRASCATI coat, made by d'Avenza x the Intern

[Sahil]

4 hours ago, the-intern said:

What would a 1970's Marlon Brando wear if transported to the year 2045 to star in a live action DeusEx film... I wonder?
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Can't wait to dig my teeth into re-imagining the past! Stay tuned for the upcoming release of a newly reconsidered version of the legendary 1972 film "Last Tango in Paris".
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
We celebrate one of the main characters of the movie, his swag, his sex, and his legacy with a fresh new aesthtic...

Coming soon: The Marlon Brando FRASCATI coat, made by d'Avenza x the Intern

damn that's sick im curious to see where this goes

off topic from that im curious to see the patterns that people use some of the ones I find are beyond their dropbox limit lol

[the-intern]

I was able to get my hands on a small volume of ECCO's Leather's latest Dyneema Leather! aaannd this may be my new favorite material to work with... I don't really have anything to compare it to, it's quite unlike anything I've ever used or even seen before.

⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Proudly presenting what will be the final production variation of the Universal Duffle concept from the 30-day challenge... it's come a very long way since and is going to be released in collaboration with Massdrop later this summer. In X-PAX VX42, and ECCO Dyneema Leather versions.

The softest most luxurious feeling nubuck leather faced with a bomb-proof technical Dyneema exterior shell.

Ultralight, incredible hand feel, waterproof, and super abrasion resistant. Made with Lenzip waterproof zippers.

TEN! Fidlock buckles allows you to attach the two straps however you want. From sidebag to backpack in seconds.
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
In addition to the two giant watertight exterior pockets, the interior has pockets upon pockets upon pockets... TEN in total... some big some small... one for 15" laptops, one for 13", and if there's no fit for what you need... two strip of MOLLE connections are compatible with my upcoming no-waste pouch ecosystem also coming to Massdrop in about a month.

 

 

 

Follow me on instagram for more frequent updates.

https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Edited May 26, 2018 by the-intern

[the-intern]

Been playing around with different sizes and configurations of no-waste pouches... planning to release a whole ecosystem of these things somehow and soon.

 

I also tech'd out the Dyneema Leather Universal Duffle idea a little bit with some VX42 X-pac

 

As always, comments, feedback, suggestions, criticisms... all is welcome.

Thanks for reading!

 

[gantz]

Love the various sizes and modularity of the pouches. I dig the new duffle variant most though!

[the-intern]

How about a bit of literal 'tech'-'wear'?

Just finished the first Prototype of a Mobile Twitch and Video Streaming pack concept.

This project was spurred on by the youtuber/streamer @sleightlymusical who reached out to me with a really interesting need...

A pack that comfortably houses batteries, 4x modems, video encoders, and a laptop within a sleek design and lots of ventilation options.

⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Wherever you go, this bag allows you to discretely and comfortably livestream while on move!
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

starts with a sketch

 

 

The idea is a Mesh lined pack with lots of pockets and wire-routing options.

I

All the exterior panels can be subtly unzipped or fully rolled open for maximum airflow when the video gear gets very hot.

or zipped up with minimal venting for a more low-key aesthetic

 

 

pockets inside sized to fit the equipment in use, with lots of wire and cable management.

 

Straps with have wire-routing access sleeves and full MOLLE lines for mounting cameras.

With this first proto and shape test complete, I'll dive into a final version with cleaner construction and final fabric choices!

-end-

 

Edited June 14, 2018 by the-intern

[Idoles]

On 26/05/2018 at 7:22 PM, the-intern said:

I was able to get my hands on a small volume of ECCO's Leather's latest Dyneema Leather! aaannd this may be my new favorite material to work with... I don't really have anything to compare it to, it's quite unlike anything I've ever used or even seen before.

⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Proudly presenting what will be the final production variation of the Universal Duffle concept from the 30-day challenge... it's come a very long way since and is going to be released in collaboration with Massdrop later this summer. In X-PAX VX42, and ECCO Dyneema Leather versions.

The softest most luxurious feeling nubuck leather faced with a bomb-proof technical Dyneema exterior shell.

Ultralight, incredible hand feel, waterproof, and super abrasion resistant. Made with Lenzip waterproof zippers.

TEN! Fidlock buckles allows you to attach the two straps however you want. From sidebag to backpack in seconds.
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
In addition to the two giant watertight exterior pockets, the interior has pockets upon pockets upon pockets... TEN in total... some big some small... one for 15" laptops, one for 13", and if there's no fit for what you need... two strip of MOLLE connections are compatible with my upcoming no-waste pouch ecosystem also coming to Massdrop in about a month.

 

 

 

Follow me on instagram for more frequent updates.

https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

I'm in love with the zip. 

[jensenmurphy]

Is this some viral marketing thing? Seems really fake somehow. None of the designs look very good either. 

[the-intern]

Just me, living in my studio, obsessed with sewing. Sorry you don't like my aesthetic.

[Sahil]

Anyone done any experimenting with pouring sneaker soles or making shoes in general

[Skye X]

Hey, I just found this thread via Danii’s comments, and all I can say is wow. This level of design, detail, and craftsmanship is incredible at any level, let alone for a second-year university student.

I’m beyond excited to see where your work goes, and I have SO MANY QUESTIONS about how to get started with this kind of work! I have access to a pretty awesome sewing area at a local hacker space that includes a couple industrial Juki machines as well as a serger, and a laser cutter so that I can cut patterns very precisely, but I have very little sewing experience. There’s so much to learn, including sourcing, patterning, technical specifications (there’s got to be a “right way” to do MOLLE, finishing, etc.), and of course sewing itself. Different types of thread, tension, stitch length, etc. What would be the best way to get started?

[danii]

start by not saying "serger". it's overlocker;)