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the-intern last won the day on February 11

the-intern had the most liked content!

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About the-intern

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  • Birthday 07/20/1989

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    next level
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  • biography:
    Intern Studying Technical Apparel Design
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  • wish i was in
    fashion R&D
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    does that still exist?
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    we all had one at one point...
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    what year is this?!

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  1. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    @gantz - Your 3d process is not far off from the method used by some companies. Personally I think a master of physics simulation and cloth modelling would make an invaluable addition to a fashion design team. Thank you very much for taking the time to post! And no-worries, I'll be sticking around, I like it here. @CB200 - Let us design a future with function over hype... one without breathable fabrics at all! @danii - bwhaha... of course you're the one to notice that, czech bandit! lmao. As for whats inside... it's a bag of mischief, so... nothing good! @Nebulae - Unfortunately I know what it's worth, I have a few items from that release i've collected at good deals, but I want to unlock the full set bonus! I've worked on products through my internship with pricetags around and above that mark, and I would have the facilities and assistance of that environment available to me. So if the opportunity presented itself I'm confident I could produce something completely bespoke at a quality level that would make it a fair trade.
  2. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day19 - "Undercoverisnt" Messenger Bag Here we are again...19 days straight and we really have to stop running into one another like this, it's getting weird. Today I took on a messenger bag due to popular demand. I've got more messages than I can count asking me to make an Acronym style messenger... but I'm not doing it. It's an existing product and I have nothing but respect for Errolson. I see a lot of misc. shit talk about ACR. And, I don't even own any acronym myself (am broke!) when I say this: At the end of the day none of us would be here if it weren't for E so I'm not going to tread on his toes. So Instead I went back in time to 2009, to what I feel is likely the strongest collection to ever walk a runway: Undercover FW09, specifically the weirdly cool messenger bag from that release. I put together some reference imagery below for those unfamiliar: I kept roughly the proportions of the original, only I changed up the construction to create volume along the bottom edge. Otherwise my project today is pretty much a toned-town copy of Jun Takahashi's 2009 design... only I used reflective textiles, modern softshell liner, and a hypalon exterior. I love how this thing turned out, and hopefully me making this my daily carry bag in some way pays honor to Mr Takahashi's brilliance. This is my concession to the much demanded ACR messenger. I hope you enjoy, check out the gallery below: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-19-gallery also... 'cause it's worth a try, I'm just going to put this out there... If you have an Undercover FW09 Earmuff Maniac coat in a size2 in the Red-Knit pattern I'll literally make you anything you want in trade for it! That wraps day 19. Thank you for everyone again. Please share your feedback and criticisms below! -end-
  3. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    @cb2000- Thank you for the cheers, this is only a temporary gig to solve a specific challenge, but I'm hopeful it will lead to more in time... if not my inboxes are flooded with requests that could tide me over through the summer I reckon! As for Gore.... my thoughts are multifaceted: Firstly as a breathable textile it performed better ~5 years ago when the pores were smaller and the textile less breathable. Pursuits towards breathability have lead to a product that no longer stops rain for prolonged periods. What happens now is the surface exterior textile, which is designed to stop abrasion, eventually "wets-out" and essentially blocks all the pores. At this point the textile is no-longer breathable as its pores are all plugged up. Furthermore when once wetting-out occurs your sweat now begins to moisten the interior membrane (or liner fabric if it's a 3layer), and once moistened the pores act as channels for water to work its way in from the outside and the interior is then soaked as well. I've tested this with dozens of top of the line coats in the weather chamber at my internship. Secondly, Gore as a company is a bully, you have to partner with them and they control your sourcing thereon-out... heaven forbid they find out you were considering an alternative for the next season lest they bring down their might and shut off supply altogether. I wont go on too long a rant here as to the hows and why's but essentially much like the issue with "fake news" the marketing voice in the community from the last 5-8years has been louder than the actual community voice. So when a company pays millions for market research from company X for this seasons numbers they are inadvertently including last years advertising and fakereview hype from company Y... repeat this process for a decade and we have a a real fucking problem. I promise you no consumer has asked for breathability as an essential item before being told to seek it, no one is checking for sub mm seam tolerances (that are pretty but come a heavy strength costs), most of the time taping is just there to hide sloppy sewing, and bonding on about 90% of the stuff I've held can be peeled away with bare hands (I miss mountain gear circa 2009 when my pockets and zippers didnt fall off every season). Goretex is so hypey is blows my mind... some kid stretched some teflon ~20years ago... can we be over it now? Which takes us to thee and my final point... fuck breathabillity. A properly designed garment can be made from impermeable vinyl if one wanted, if the garment fails to perform this is not a failure of the textile. Its a failure of the designers understanding of the textile - and the bio-system that is a human (which can change moisture/heat outputs >90% in under a min). If one set out with the idea of ignoring the marketing hype forcefed to consumers, and takes to account only factual proven metrics in the chemistry of the textiles in use then one would design the vinyl coat to suit vinyl and incorporate the venting by other means. *phew, inhale*
  4. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    @inkinsurgent + @danii - I shared the patterning for the pants on day 15, you can see the gallery a few posts up. The process went like so: I began by measuring my leg circumference around the ankle and moved up the leg measuring again every 3-4inches. After I had the numbers, I drew a rectangular grid based on a vertical line that started at the foot, through the knee, and up the waist. The measurements were projected off this line to provide me a rough guide of my "skin unwrapped". Once the main silhouette was established, I drew in where I wanted the lines and patterning without any considerations as to how the darts and volume will be created (in this instance I worked out from the knee). Once I had my basic shaping patterns I retraced them and went line by line adding curves, darts and other volume features by considering how I wanted to build out or take-in volume at each seam. After this was complete I went back and measured all the lines to recheck that mating seams are all the same lengths... and c'est tout, all done! As Danii pointed out, you typically use a mannequin, only I don't have one and the ones at my internship apparently cost about $15,000 and I was unable to borrow one for the challenge (nor would such an item fit my limitation of using only my own equipment and things accessible to anyone). Thank you both very much for the interest! If I can provide more detail or if there's specifics you'd like insight on please don't hesitate to post!
  5. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    @Dango - Thank you very much for taking the time to post. We should connect when the challenge is over if you're in the city! As for my schooling, I'd prefer to keep that out of the public as my class size is small and I don't want to stir anything up. Please feel free to PM me if you'd like to discuss fashion education however. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day18 - Tech Toques + Pants V2 Day 18 already... feels like time has gone and picked up it's pace on me lately, the past few weeks have blinked right by me! So I have a bit of I mixed bag to share today. First of all I got a message yesterday that led to a meeting this morning that kept me away from the studio until about 3PM... however this particular meeting was a local business reaching out to offer me a very exciting contract gig!!! It's been a hell of a day! Announcements aside, today I had time only for a smaller simple project. I decided to make some techy winter toques from a few different types of softshell... I'm making simple hats today because I cant find any decent softshell winter hats anywhere. If you've seen any please post with the link! Also I had time to finish up the second pair of geometric techwear pants I began on day 16. This time I user a super stiff almost canvas like technical polester/nylon fabric. This material come to me from Schoeller but is very similar, albeit more stiff, to the Stotz fabric seen on some ACR goods. This material is a technical attempt at creating an organic looking textile, it's nearly indistinguishable from oiled cotton in its appearance, and has memory and shape holding like wax canvas. This was my first time using this material... and I LOVE IT... it's really radical. Lightweight handfeel like a super thin demin, but stiff like carhartt work pants... very wild stuff. You'll definitely see it again in something soon, it would make a beautiful pack. Take a look at the gallery of the pants and making-of the toques here: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-18-gallery Thank you to everyone for your messages and 'rep' and posts! The positivity of the response itself has already been an incredible experience so far! You all rock!
  6. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day17 - Hybrid Poncho Day 17 was a an attempt to fulfill a my most requested item... a Poncho. I don't get the whole Poncho thing, myself... The desire for them is mystery to me on many levels. So to appeal to both the request and my hatred for ponchos I thought I'd see what happens when you mash a jacket and a poncho together... turns out its some kind of unholy bastard step child. Today's project was not a success but nor was it a total failure. I think this idea has some legs... I just executed it a little awkwardly IMO. In the near future -after the 30-days are up- I'll take this idea further with more shaping and function. The textiles used today were again the midnight blue Gore-tex 3L Pro seen a few times earlier in previous days challenges. A new entry today is the Polartec competitor for Gore-tex called Neoshell. I'm going to do a full review on waterproof breathables in the next few days but I just want to get it out there now... GORETEX IS A TERRIBLE TEXTILE. It simply doesn't work as you'd want it to in real world use outside a lab-test. And more to the point Gore is a terrible bully who has single handedly held back this whole industry by a decade or more with their trusted partner relationship practice and the leverage it provides them. I personally think the need for breathability in a textile is a total cop out to well patterned garments designed to breath and vent naturally... however if you have to go that road there are literally dozens of superior alternatives to anything made by Gore (except windstopper fleece... that shits pretty dope!). The Polartec Neoshell I'm using today is the lightest weight variety and is my personal favorite light membrane fabric to work with. Onwards with the hybrid poncho concept... it's an odd thing I made today, with a jacket front and a poncho that emerges from the sides and wraps around the back. There is a 'jacket bottom' all the way around the body, only in place of an actual back portion I've left the whole back open to vent. I really do believe this could be a very cool idea, but this variant needs some work for sure. View the gallery for today's project below: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-17-gallery Also, Instagram (pics soon): https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/ Thanks again to everyone, please share your feedback positive or otherwise, or make a suggestion for a days project for me to take on! -end-
  7. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day16 - Weatherproof Tech Pant Pt2of2 Day 16, and part two of the techwear pant challenge put to me by a user named Danii who is the creator of the awesome accessories brand AOKU. Yesterday I dove in over my head and ended up only just getting the patterns done in time. Today I set forth to make my first pair of pants with any kind of form or shaping... my previous efforts were all shapeless tubes for legs. I have say it... I'm pretty sure I killed it! I'm incredibly proud of these things, everything ended up landing almost exactly where I expected on the body and I learned a hell of a lot about crafting technical garments... eyes opened for more technical garment experiments in the future. I know I set out to make two pairs today, but the order of operations on these was a real brain teaser so pair two - made from a ACR Stotz style textile - will come tomorrow with a few extra features added. Pair number one was made from the heaviest duty and strongest winter softshell in my small collection, (it's been really cold in Vancouver lately), a Schoeller fabric again, this one most comparable to WB400. Super durable wind proof water-resistant outer face with an ultra comfy fleece backing against body. The pattern around the knee was inspired by Guerilla Group's new Denim Dyneema hybrid pant the "18S-ES-PD01". I wanted something with a lot of fairly radical geometric gussets which add lots of volume and provide a completely unhindered range of movement. I don't like pants that are very wide around the thigh when looked at straight on so I was careful to build out the volume forwards and backwards... giving two entirely different silhouettes when seen on front/back or from the sides. It's going to be very hard to wait on taking this idea further while I complete the next couple weeks... I really enjoyed this one so maybe I'll do some more pants later in the challenge also. Enough descriptions... check out today's results gallery and project log below: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-16-gallery Also, Instagram (pics soon, promise): https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/ Thanks again to everyone, please share your feedback positive or otherwise, or make a suggestion for a days project for me to take on! -end-
  8. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day15 - Weatherproof Tech Pant Pt1of2 Alrighty, it's day 15 and I'm 1/2 way through the challenge!!! Today's project is going to come in two parts over two days, today I'll share the pattern and design considerations, and tomorrow I'll make two pairs in very different fabrics to see how it worked out. For day 15 I decided to tackle whats likely one of the more complex builds I've ever undertaken - let alone in a single day... Technical, weatherproof, ergonomic pants with a movement focused design and radical geometric patterning. I was weary about trying to make something like this... I have classmates working on projects like todays pants for their final projects in school and will be applying many months to the result. I was spurred to the challenge of making pants by the founder one of my favorite small brands: http://aoku.co, and papa didn't raise a coward so lets dive in! This ones for you Danii!:) I was inspired by what has to be the most radical knee design I've ever seen on a pant... the new Dyneema Denim pants from Guerilla Group: https://www.guerrilla-group.co/collections/new-releases/products/18s-es-pd01. I'm in love with the idea of a technical denim, I haven't owned jeans in many years but I want these GG pants very badly. Since I've gone and spent ALL my money on materials and hardware the closest I'm going to get is to make my own spin on the idea. Patterning these things took me all day, and well into the morning... as anticipated the idea was too ambitious for a single day. However I'm going to compensate by making two pairs in very different textiles tomorrow. Everything measures out correctly in theory (I don't have a mannequin so its mostly guess work and measuring my own body)... So far I'm overwhelmingly satisfied with the lines and shaping (at least the intent behind it). I cant wait to dive into sewing and share the finished product! The gallery today is a little different as I only have patterns and the drafting process to share. If you'd like to see what complicated tech pants look like when you unwrap them flat click onwards below: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-15-gallery Tomorrow for day 16 I'll be sharing two pairs of pants. Tune in then! And as always thanks for reading. Instagram is on the tarmac awaiting launch shortly: https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/ INTRODUCTION OF THE 30-DAY TECHWEAR CHALLENGE FOR NEWCOMERS: My school and industry mentors have challenged me with the task of trying to create a new product - from scratch - everyday - for 30 days... I'm a second year Student of Fashion Design - studying in the city of Vancouver. Since September I've been interning at a local research and design firm to gain exposure to technical fashion design, construction techniques, and the real-world process behind bringing wild ideas to life... The studio where I intern is very tight-lipped about their outputs and involvements, however I am allowed to say that they have been quietly responsible for many of the innovations and products seen across the market. My roll is still at the utmost bottom of the ladder (see:gopher), however my mentors are incredibly supportive in including me in and teaching me the in-and-outs of the nuances fashion design. At the end of this project, I'd like to be able to assemble the 30-day log and the products created into a portfolio which I can use to find a job. I'm still very new to this but it's clear to me that technical apparel and accessories design is where I want to focus my ambitions and career. With any luck this project will be an appealing application for a design position with one of the larger industry players. Thanks again to everyone, please share your feedback positive or otherwise, or make a suggestion for a days project for me to take on! -end-
  9. 116740 APPROVED SHOES

    more 4d incoming...
  10. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    @Inkinsurgent- Thank you for the feedback! There is some volume being created in the back which is accentuated by the merino mesh material in ways I'm no happy with. I was also experimenting with combinations of very light and very heavyweight textiles... with varied success. I did remake the shirt with some super technical lightweight stretch fabric I liberated from the trash of a yoga brand in town... but I need a serger to get better sewing results. My machines are inadequate to handle so much stretch. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day14 - Goretex Chest Rig Almost 1/2 way and this challenge is starting to take its toll my on my body... the knees are weary and the back has a new funky lean but there's a couple more weeks left in me still! Today I took a crack at a chest pouch, at la the Alyx bag made infamous by mr Kanye. Personally I think its ABSURD for that pouch to cost what it does, it cant be more than 20 bucks in cost... so I thought I'd take a crack at a more technical variant made from gore-tex, lined with a GOLD softshell, and loaded with fancy buckles and modularity options. This one nearly took a turn for the worst on me when I was making the final assembly but fortunately I was able to make a quick amendment which saved the project in the final stages. All said and done I feel this one was a success, the function and fit is spot on with lots of modular knick knacks to play around with. I'd swap out the textile to something more hard wearing and form holding in the future however. Today's fabrics were the same midnight blue Goretex 3layer Pro-Shell I've used in previous days, the liner of this pack is a similar Schoeller softshell material to what I used before - only this ones metallic gold for added swag points. The front stuff pouches are made with a tremendously difficult to sew technical stretch fabric I got from dumpster diving a locally located yoga apparel brand. This ~200gsm nylon elastane tech jersey is an incredible textile... I've apparently been paying attention to yoga pants for all the wrong reasons, they use state of the art textile technologies! Check out the gallery and project log below: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-14-gallery Thanks for tuning in. Tomorrow I hurdle the 1/2 way point... lets make pants! I've been preparing photos and my Instagram will be running by end of the weekend! I know there's no pics yet! (I'm a tech lamen with no time to learn right now, please stop messaging me to remind me of that. :S lol) https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/ Thanks again to everyone, please share you feedback positive or otherwise, or make a suggestion for a days project for me to take on! -end-
  11. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day13 - Shell Pack Day 13 and I took another try at a backpack. This time with the confidence gained from the mostly successful shirt projects I tried to make a pack with some more shape and form to it. For a little added difficulty I kept pattern shape for the main body of the pack all one piece of fabric; reducing failure points and giving a sleek minimalist result. Check out the gallery and project log below: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-13-gallery I'm completely satisfied and tremendously happy with the result. The back panel has a complex geometric shape which hugs the body beautifully while wrapping around the kidney area. I'll go back and reattach the straps at a slightly different angle later though, G guessed the geometry incorrectly by about 15degrees. I used XPac again for this project, I went back to the cursed neon orange variant I intended the messenger bag to made from back on day 03. I love this fabric, I have the VX21 HS DRW variant and it's my favorite of all the X-pac textiles. For some reason each colour seems to have a slightly different stiffness to it, and the orange version is -imo- ideal. I got Grambler up and running so I am now able to post to Instagram from my PC, so check out the feed there soon as I'll be preparing photos for that over the next couple evenings... https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/ I'm taking the evening tonight to make some amendments to the longsleeve shirt from yesterday. I'll post that project along with tomorrows attempt at a chest pouch. Tune in then. Thank you to everyone whose posted or followed along so far! Please keep the input coming, and meanwhile I'll do my very best to tackle the popular suggestions you have given me so-far. -end-
  12. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    @cb200 - forgive the confusion... I heard he lived in east van and your posting history had some interesting deadbird insights! 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day12 - Longsleeve Shirt Okay.. due to popular demand I made an Instragram: https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/ I'm missing something obvious apparently... How the blast do I add photos from my PC? I don't have these photographs on my phone and it looks like I can't add photos outside the app... help?! Day 12, and today I elaborated a bit on the pattern from the baselayer top I made yesterday. This time I tech'd out the pattern layout with several textiles mapped to suit different needs on the body. These zones provide durability, breath-ability, comfort, etc patterned to where the body needs it most. I used 4 different fabrics this time around. The merino faced mesh from yesterdays top was the base. I then added sections of two variants of a burly and weatherproof Shoeller softshell usually used in mountaineering pants: one is just the shell and the other is backed in a microfleece. To cap it off I added a super lightweight silky nylon mesh around the shoulders. Check out the gallery and project log at the link below: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-12-gallery I'm very happy with the pattern and concept on while, some small amendments on the line across the chest are needed. Also I somehow made the arms a bit to narrow in the forearm on this iteration... I'll have to go back later and amend my patterns. With a more stretchy fabric this would have been a suitable fit, but there's not much flex in the textiles I used on the sleeves, and what little is there is not enough. I'll also go back later and figure out what to do for a collar, or hood for this piece... possibly a 1/4length neck zipper too? Because of the tightness in the forearm I'm going to have to call this one unsuccessful... easily fixed, but unsuccessful in this iteration. Tune in tomorrow for Day 13. I'm going to apply lessons learned in body shape from the shirt projects to a more ergonomic daypack design. A special thank you to everyone whose followed along this far. Please do share you thoughts, criticisms or suggestions for future projects! -end-
  13. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    @danii - Holy moly! Lets definitely talk! As for the flip action, my intention is to add a couple small molle pouches that are secured against the back. However.... flipping the straps to the other side like you suggest likely makes more sense. That apron idea sounds really interesting! As for pants... I dunno if I can tackle pants in a day, but I'll give it a shot. Tune in later this week for that. @cb200 - ...are you, maybe, by chance, mr kasuga of deadbird?!?!?! if so my head just exploded.
  14. Bags, backpacks, duffles, messenger, slings, etc.

    The new apparition leather variant of the awesome Guerilla group sling pack... looks like it's gunna cost over $1600CAD though. ... I also found another little gem poking around online; has anyone seen this one yet?!?!
  15. 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge

    @danii - Thank you so much for following along! This is kind from left field but maybe you wanna do a thing together? 30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day11 - Tech Baselayer Top Welcome back to the 30-day challenge! We're on day 11 now; for those of you keeping track wondering where day 12's post is... I'm going to mix up the format a little bit because these projects are taking me well into the early hours of the morning most days. So from here-on-out I'll be posting my results the day after I complete them so that I can put more effort into the documentation and project-log. I'm also going to bite the bullet and start modelling my wares myself due to the high demand for on-body fit shots. And to do that I've recruited my friend (who took the photographs in the 10-day review gallery) to pop by the studio in the afternoons to take pics for me. Onto day 11! Today I made my first actual clothing article for the challenge. A technical base-layer top from the Schoeller Merino-faced technical polyester-mesh textile used in the casual shoulder rig project. This is a really luxurious textile, with a GREAT next to body feel and all the technical wicking and breathability one would want from a base layer. The only real drawback with the fabric used is that it has very little stretch to it, so I had to be very careful with my fit and patterning in order to get a shirt that moved well on the body and took advantage of the directional stretch of the fabric. To do this I used my measuring tape to literally measure my skin size in a grid layout, I then added about an inch all the way around to get the size of the shirt. Unfortunately my friend had my camera for most of the day yesterday shooting the 10-day review so I was unable to document the first 1/2 of the project. But the process was the same as every other day, spend a few hours in the morning measuring my body and hashing out the plan. Then patterns are made, traced to fabric and sewn. I made two shirts in total yesterday, and on one I played with some heat-transfer reflective to create a hat-tip to the film Akira. I'm really happy with how these items turned out, the fit is almost spot-on without any movement restrictions whatsoever. I'm really excited to play with this heat-transfer reflective material also, I'll inquire around town to see if I can get it lasercut for more line accuracy. The reflective I applied today came out little janky in the line work, but I figure Kaneda's coat would've been hand applied so I'm very much cool with it! [edit] my friends talked me into making an instragram account. They say posting video content is easy enough... ill start to add content there soonly!: https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/ [/edit] . Check out the gallery and project log at the link below: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-11-gallery Thanks for reading. Tune in tomorrow for day 12, I'm going to explore the shirt idea more and make a full technical long-sleeve with multiple textiles! -end-